L'Alouette

2 Lark Lane, Liverpool L17. Tel: 0151 727 2142

A year on from my most recent visit to L'Alouette and sadly I must report that one of Merseyside's best restaurants has fallen from grace, and is now a pale imitation of its former self. The change in ownership that occurred in 2002 at first seemed beneficial, with a largely unchanged menu but a revitalised wine list. But it is clear now that it has been a change for the worse.

L'Alouette used to feature a frequently changing menu, which included a fairly small selection of dishes which were always interesting and sometimes superbly executed. The menu now is similarly brief, but disappointingly has not changed since our last visit some considerable time ago.

The quality was patchy. Escargots in a garlic butter seemed devoid of garlic. An otherwise acceptable onion soup was served in a large, hollowed-out bread. Appealing presentation, but the bread quickly soaked up all the liquid, leaving an unappetising pile of onions. I find it difficult to believe that the chef tried these dishes before placing them on the menu. The main courses were a little better; well presented duck and steak dishes, both with sauces featuring Madeira - a now tediously formulaic theme at this establishment. This leading light has faded to a dim glow. I won't be returning too quickly.

Prices: as below.

My previous visit:

Two years on it seems standards at L’Alouette have slipped a little, although they still excel in some areas. This seems to be a recurring phenomenon with this restaurant, which I have frequented for many years now. A meal here always holds the promise of something really special, but there is no consistency. I have been disappointed as many times as I have been ecstatic. A recent change in ownership no doubt also complicates the issue.

The menu remains stylistically the same, and as ever I was sorely tempted by some of the classic dishes hidden in amongst the specials. The wine list, however, has changed significantly. No longer is it dominated by Long-Depaquit Chablis and lesser quality négociant Burgundy bottlings. It is more wide-ranging, and holds a few bottles of interest, including Chablis from Jean Durup and Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine de Montpertuis.

From a number of appealing entrées we chose the Salad Grand Ferme and Langoustine a la Nage. In the former dish we were revisiting an old favourite, and this gave us a simple benchmark which seemed to demonstrate clearly that things had changed for the worse. This was a weak effort at what can be such a delightful dish, with a paltry quantity of Roquefort, boring iceberg lettuce and tasteless tomato. Very disappointing. The langoustine were a little better, although they too lacked flavour, as did the accompanying court bouillon. Thank heavens for the garlic mayonnaise, which added some interest to the dish at least.

This was a disappointing start to the evening, but things really turned around from that point on. A Brochette of Swordfish with Sweet Peppers was, frankly, superb. An excellent texture to the fish which was delightful. An accompanying herbed risotto was also fine. Roast Fillet of Chicken stuffed with Smoked Salmon and Spinach was also excellent. Alongside our main dishes some creamed mustard seed potato was very comforting, although unfortunately I cannot comment on the other side dish we ordered as it never materialised.

We sampled just one dessert, a raspberry meringue, which was also very good. A correct, chewy texture to much of the meringue, with just some crispy, crumbly elements around the edge. Perfect! From the wine list I plumped for a Chablis, which was a pleasing choice and it worked well with all of our dishes:

Jean Durup Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 1997: Good colour. Clean fruit with a mineral element on the nose. Fairly tight through the midpalate, lean with good acidity. An intense, richer, honeyed edge becomes apparent through the endpalate and provides a pleasing roundness to the finish. This one needs some time in bottle. Good, potentially very good. (4/10/02)

It was a shame that we had to spend 10 minutes cleaning a thick coating of soap residue from what were the most filthy wine glasses I have ever encountered. Appropriate inspection and a touch of elbow grease from the staff would have been preferable.

Prices: On this occasion £30 per head for three courses. Prices for wine seem reasonably marked up, and there is an improved selection.

My previous visit:

This is an attractive restaurant, with a prominent corner position on Lark Lane, and it is an old favourite of mine. I hadn't eaten there for over a year, as I had previously been slightly disappointed with the standards. The time for a repeat visit was long overdue.

The ambience in L'Alouette is superb. Friendly, well-spoken staff wait with efficiency. It is easy to catch their eye, and yet one doesn't have the impression they are hovering. The tables are laid with clean, crisp white linen, and they are sensibly spaced. At one end of the dining area there is a large open fire, and tables here are the most popular. You are unlikely to be sat here, unless you specifically request it when booking in advance. The menu is very French. and includes French interpretations of some classic dishes, such as Beef Wellington! The wine list suffers from hedged vintages, and is dominated by Burgundy from an unfamiliar negociant. Otherwise it is geneally quite good, and includes Chablis (including halves) and Premier Cru Chablis from Long-Depaquit. There is also a good range of Champagnes, rather than the odd bottle thrown in out of necessity. I chose a minor claret:

La Croix de Marbuzet (St-Estèphe) 1995: A deep red-purple hue promises something good. On the nose, lots of young blackcurrant fruit, with traces of leather, tar and Asian spices. In the glass it develops a attractive mocha scent. Medium-full bodied, with stacks of fruit, some oak, pepper and spice. Firm but approachable tannins and sufficient acidity. Very good - perfect with steak. (12/9/00)

To start we were to have the Salade Grande Ferme and Mango and Roquefort Filo Parcels, served with a cucumber and lime salsa. The salad was superbly executed. The mango and Roquefort worked surprisingly well together, and I was quite taken by surprise. Particularly when combined with the tart salsa. We were, for a change, very impressed, and my doubts regarding standards at L'Alouette faded away.

For the main course we had Roquefort-stuffed Fillet Steak in a Madeira sauce (from the specials board) and Beef Wellington, also with Madeira sauce. Both were exquisite, particularly the former. The Beef Wellington was a little overdone but was still delightful, and the flavoursome Madeira sauce complimented the meats very well.

For pudding we had Nougat Glacé Creole, an inspired mixture of a very creamy home-made ice cream, nougat, meringue pieces, raisins and rum which was very well received, and a classic Pear and Chocolate tart. The latter lacked somewhat in character, but it was pleasant and free of other faults. We finished with coffees.

As hoped, L'Alouette has continued to provide quality dining in a relaxed yet professional atmosphere. They are to be commended. No wonder this is one of Liverpool's most popular restaurants.

Prices: £25-30 (three courses) per head not including wine. Good selection of wines between £15-25 per bottle.

L'Alouette

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