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South African Wine Guide
In recent years South Africa has emerged from the shadow of Apartheid, and its wines have begun once more to make an impact on the international market. The style of wine coming from this reborn nation seems to straddle the New World and the Old, combining the ripe fruit of the former with the elegance and restraint of the latter.
Despite the warm climate, South African plantings have in the past been dominated by white varieties, especially Chenin Blanc, also referred to as Steen. This is changing, and there are increased plantings of international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah/Shiraz, as well as the Cape's own variety, Pinotage. This latter grape was created by Professor Perold in 1925 at Stellenbosch University, when he crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsault (also called Hermitage) in an attempt to develop a grape with the elegance of the former and yet the hardiness of the latter.
Around Cape Town is Stellenbosch, responsible for probably the
Cape's finest red wines, although there are a range of
styles produced here. Although responsible for less than
a fifth of all wine production, it is undoubtedly the
centre of the South African wine industry. Many leading
estates have their headquarters here.
My top wines: Beyerskloof, Longridge, Rust en
Vrede, Rustenberg, Kanonkop, Thelema, Neil Ellis,
Meerlust and Warwick Estate.
Directly to the east, on
the Atlantic coast, is Constantia. The source of the dessert wine
Vin de Constance, drunk by Napoleon when exiled on St
Helena, this region is now also the source for some
excellent table wines.
My top wines: Klein Constantia (their Vin de
Constance is stunning), Buitenverwachting.
Inland of Stellenbosch is
Paarl. A diverse range of styles are
produced here, including dessert wines and
flor-influenced wines very much in the style of Sherry.
It is home to a number of top estates.
My top wines: Veenwouden leads the way with their
Classic blend, also Plaisir de Merle, Glen Carlou,
Nederberg and Welgemeend. Clos Malverne has produced a
large range of good value wines in past years.
To the south is Elgin, one of South Africa's newest
regions. There are already signs that top quality wines
will be produced here, including Pinot Noir.
My top wines: Paul Cluver.
Further round
the coast is Walker Bay, a relatively cool climate region
which as always has led to the planting of Pinot Noir.
This is probably the most exciting South African region
for this variety, with several estates having
considerable success. There is also some very good
Chardonnay.
My top wines: Hamilton-Russell,
Bouchard-Finlayson.
The
remaining coastal regions, Piketberg,Swartland and Overberg are of less significance. Moving
inland, there are a number of hot, arid wine wards,
including Worcester, Robertson,
Tulbagh and Little Karoo. Save for a few interesting estates, the
wines produced here are of less interest to the wine
lover. Olifant's River, to the north, is another jug wine
region.
My top wines: Graham Beck produces some good
sparkling wines.
Vintages
Better vintages in recent years include 1997, 1995 and 1992.
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