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Roussillon Wine Guide Part 1

The vineyards of Roussillon are ancient, their origins lost in history; various sources credit the Greeks, the Romans and even Hannibal and his warrior elephants with the introduction and subsequent development of viticulture in the region. Whichever ancient traveller was responsible, over the centuries that have passed since their time viticulture has come to be the dominant agricultural activity in Roussillon. The soils, baked by the hot Mediterranean sun, are fabulously diverse, with areas of quartz and gneiss scattered between the more common black schist, limestone and clay. There is infrequent rainfall, and what does fall quickly evaporates, the effect of the sun and the Tramontane, the blustery wind that blows from the northwest on many days of the year. In fact the windblown, rather arid hillside soils are suitable for little else other than the vine and the olive tree.

The wines produced in Roussillon are no less diverse than its soils, and there are few epicurean pleasures more more appealing to the eye than an array of vins du Roussillon. The colours span the vinous spectrum, from pale dry Muscat through the ambers and golds of Rivesaltes, to the red wines of Cotes du Roussillon and Collioure, to the inky dark wines of Maury. There are only seven appellations, some with just a handful of domaines, producing this fine assortment of wines, a feature which makes Roussillon's newly apparent and quite increasingly tangible identity all the more impressive.

Côtes du Roussillon & Côtes du Roussillon Villages

These are the principal appellations for table wine in Roussillon; there are others, specifically Collioure from the most south-eastern tip of the region, and very good vin de pays from the Côtes Catalanes around Rivesaltes in the north, but the Côtes appellations are by far the largest and most commonly encountered. The appellations grew from the Coteaux du Roussillon VDQS, itself an agglomeration of three earlier, smaller VDQS regions. Promotion to appellation status came in 1977. Côtes du Roussillon is the larger of the two appellations, covering 113 communes, with one recently defined cru, Les Aspres. Côtes du Roussillon may be white, rosé or red, and the rules defining the blend can seem quite complex. The red wines must be a blend of at least three varieties, with Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsaut, the infrequently encountered Lledoner Pelut and the white variety, Maccabeu, all permitted. The two major contributing varieties must not contribute more than 90% of the blend, thereby ensuring that all three varieties share the workload. Carignan, once very widely planted but now gradually being replaced by Grenache and Syrah, must not account for more than 60%; Syrah and Mourvèdre, together or separately, must account for more than 20%. Maccabeu must not exceed 10% in the red wines and 30% in the rosé. The white wines, meanwhile, are made from Grenache Blanc, Malvoisie, Maccabeu, Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino, of which the first three must account for at least 50%. As of 2006, the latter three must account for at least 20%. Muscat is excluded, as it is catered for by the Muscat de Rivesaltes appellation, although many producers now vinify it dry and sell it as a vin de pays. The rendement de base for red and white wines is 50 hl/ha, but obviously the true maximum permitted yield has the potential to change with each new vintage.

With such varied terroir and topography it is inevitable that the Côtes du Roussillon includes small areas with significantly more potential than others; the same is true of generic, regional appellations in other French regions, such as the Côtes du Rhône. The path from Côtes to villages or cru status and onwards is a well trodden path to an individual appellation, and there is evidence of such a process in Roussillon. Wines from 23 Roussillon communes may be designated as Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres provided they meet more stringent criteria and originate from identified sites which have been inspected by INAO officials. Here only Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are permitted; again the blend must include at least three varieties, with the same rules on blend composition as for Côtes du Roussillon, but in addition Carignan must not exceed 25%, and the other three must not exceed 50%.

A confusing aspect of the Côtes appellations, if we continue making comparisons to the Côtes du Rhone, is that a villages suffix would usually suggest a region of superior quality, a nursery for crus and appellations of the future. Perversely, Côtes du Roussillon Villages fails to do this, as evidenced by the creation of a cru from the Côtes du Roussillon region. Nevertheless, there are criteria here which distinguish the two appellations, if not the quality of the wines, and there are villages here that may append their name to the appellation, potential candidates for future elevation. The appellation extends across the north of Roussillon, incorporating 32 communes in all. The wines here are only red, the eligible varieties being as for Côtes du Roussillon save for one or two differences; firstly, Carignan and Maccabeu have been forbidden since 2002 and secondly, Syrah and Mourvèdre must account for at least 30% of the blend. The rendement de base is also a little more stringent at 45 hl/ha. The four villages that may append their names to the appellation, together with their appropriate terroirs, include:

• Latour-de-France (predominantly brown schist).
• Caramany (predominantly gneiss).
• Lesquerde (predominantly granitic sand).
• Tautavel (predominantly red clay on limestone).

Many villages are dominated by the local co-operative, some of which turn out some acceptable wines, but it is largely the individual growers that are behind the quality revolution in Roussillon. Gérard Gauby of Domaine Gauby is one of the leading vignerons, and has certainly attracted attention with his expensive Muntada cuvée. The quality is very good though. There are also lovely wines from Domaine Força-Réal, Domaine Boucabeille, Marie-Pierre and Serge Baux at Mas Baux, Catherine Jeannin at Mas Cremat, Pierre Escudie at Domaine de Nidolères, Domaine Piquemal, Marc Barriot at Clos de l'Origine and Jérôme Malet at Sarda Malet. Other notable estates producing decent value wines include Chateau la Casenove, Domaine Lauriga and Domaine Marcevol. Domaine Vaquer also has a good reputation.

Collioure

Collioure is a tiny appellation, at the extreme end of the Roussillon vineyard; just a few miles to the south is the Spanish border. It corresponds almost exactly with the Banyuls appellation, and many vignerons produce both styles. The legislation for the red wine was laid down in 1971, so this appellation predates the Côtes by several years, although the rosé appellation did not come into being until 1990, and the white later still, in 2003. The red wine is predominantly Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which must account for at least 60% but not more than 90% of the blend. Carignan and Cinsaut are also permitted, but must make up less than 40% of the blend. For rosé, Grenache Gris is also eligible, but not more than 30%. For white, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris must comprise at least 70% of the blend; the remainder may include Maccabeu, Malvoisie, Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino, although not more than 15% of any one variety. The rendement de base is 40 hl/ha for the reds and rosés and 45 hl/ha for the whites. There are a handful of superlative domaines in Collioure, the two most notable both staffed by branches of the Parcé family; Jean-Michel Parcé at Domaine du Mas Blanc and Marc Parcé at Domaine de la Rectorie.

With such a kaleidoscope of terroirs and legally eligible varieties it goes without saying that providing a succinct description of the wines of Collioure and the two Côtes appellations, with their respective crus and villages, is simply not feasible. The wines are certainly robust, and in some hands quite rustic (although in others remarkably fine), reflecting their backwater origins. Low rainfall and strong winds, with sensible yields, means the wines have always been strongly coloured and flavoured; in the past it was not unknown for them to be used as blending wines with lesser efforts from the Languedoc and perhaps further north than that. Increasing use of the cépages améliorators - Grenache particularly, Syrah less so, Mourvèdre only a little - together with quite stringent regulations as to their blending, has helped to improve quality whilst maintaining originality and a vital sense of place in the wines. The astute will notice no mention of Chardonnay or Cabernet in these regions; these are permitted but will remain permanently in the second division, eligible for nothing more than vin de pays (where admittedly Cabernet at least can be very good in a blend). This is essential for Roussillon, as I am sure the way forward for this region is with a marriage of individuality and quality, with which at present they seem to be succeeding. Long may it continue.

• Next Instalment: Roussillon Part 2

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