Australian Wine Guide
From the
outside, Australia as a wine-producing nation seems to
have come from nowhere. It's wines have only made an
impact on the international scene in the last two
decades, and yet now it is responsible for more sales by
volume in the UK than any other country, France included.
The wines range from bargain basement reds and whites, up
to the premium red wines such as Penfold's Grange and Jim
Barry's Armagh.
Of course,
the view from the outside is somewhat distorted. Wine
production, in both quantity and quality, has been a
feature of Australia for centuries, not decades. It has
well established wine styles that it can call its own,
led by the splendid fortified Muscat wines. Sparkling red
is also a popular style in Australia, and certain regions
do wonderful things with the Semillon grape. And we
haven't even mentioned the Shiraz (known as Syrah in the
Rhône Valley in France) and Cabernet Sauvignon based red
wines
Although a
vast continent, the vineyards of Australia are mainly
concentrated in the south east, in New South Wales,
Victoria and South Australia. There are regions of
interest elsewhere, however, not least Margaret River, a
relatively cool climate region in Western Australia. This
is why, despite the amount of Australian wine available
in the UK, and the size of the country itself, it only
ever ranks sixth or seventh in the league tables for wine
production by volume.
The Big Names
The wine
industry in Australia, as with many nations of the New
World, is dominated by a few big names. Without doubt the
most significant in Australia is Southcorp,
a veritable giant. It owns Penfolds, Lindemans, Seppelt,
Seaview and Wynns among others, and as of 2001 it also
took a controlling share in Rosemount Estate. There are a
vast array of wines, produced in all the regions of the
continent. Of the names listed, the most significant is
Penfolds, but Rosemount also has an important slice of
the UK market.
New South Wales
In the
north east is the Hunter Valley, one of the most
long established wine regions, and in New South Wales
doubtlessly one of the most significant. Frequently
divided into Lower and Upper Hunter, it is responsible
for the excellent Semillon wines mentioned above, as well
as some characterful Shiraz, and nowadays some good
Chardonnay as well.
My top wines: Brokenwood, Mount
Pleasant, Tyrells, Rosemount (Roxburgh Chardonnay).
Other
regions in New South Wales include Mudgee, a small region
not far from the Hunter Valley, and the Murrumbidgee
Irrigation Area, also known as Riverina, which has for long
been responsible for large amounts of cheap wine, but is
now seeing some investment at the hands of Rosemount.
My top wines: The top dessert wine from
Australia, Noble One, is produced by De Bortoli who are
based in Griffith near Riverina.
Rosemount (Mountain Blue
Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon) and Huntington Estate (both Mudgee).
Victoria
To the
south of New South Wales is Victoria, where there are
some exciting wines produced, not least from the cool
coastal areas. The Mornington Peninsula is one such area,
and it is responsible for some of the few interesting
Pinot Noir wines produced in Australia. Nearby is the
wonderful Yarra Valley, another classic
and long established cool region, with no less history
than the Hunter Valley. Here there are more excellent
Pinot Noir reds. The third of the cool
coastal regions is Geelong. This area was
devastated by the vine louse Phylloxera, but was replanted
in the 1960s.
My top wines:
Jasper Hill (Heathcote), Stoniers, Dromana (Mornington),
Yarra Yering, Tarrawarra, Yarra Ridge, Yerringberg,
Coldstream Hills, Domaine Chandon's Green Point (all
Yarra Valley), Bannockburn (Geelong)
Further
inland, the Goulburn Valley and Great
Western are two of the more significant regions, the
others including Macedon and the Pyrenees. The Goulburn
Valley has a temperate climate and some famous old
wineries produce some delicious red and white wine. From
Great Western come some excellent sparklers and classic
Shiraz.
My top wines: Tahbilk, Mitchelton
(Goulburn Valley), Seppelt, Mount Langhi-Ghiran (Great
Western), Jasper Hill (Central Victoria).
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To the
north east are Rutherglen, King Valley and Milawa, fortified and
dessert wine regions. There are also some good table
wines produced.
My top wines: Bailey's, Chamber's
Rosewood, Mick Morris and Brown Brothers make excellent
fortified wines. The latter also produces an array of
interesting table wines. |
South Australia
The names of the
wine regions of South Australia are some of the most
familiar of this continent. Nevertheless, some of the
most enjoyable wines are the regional blends, made from
grapes harvested in a number of different wine regions.
These wines are labelled solely as South Australia
without any further detail on origin. Many will be mass
produced wines made for early consumption, but some are
of top quality with excellent cellaring potential. Such
wines include those from the Penfold's stable, led by
their flagship wine Grange, as well as their Bin 707 and
Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignons and Bin 389 Cabernet
Sauvignon-Shiraz.
Furthest
south is Coonawarra, a region of
considerable repute, and many would agree it is the
finest region of South Australia. Its future depends on
whether the name can be restricted to those parts that
lie on the famous Terra Rossa soils which are
responsible, to some extent, for the quality of the wines
produced. Cabernet Sauvignon excels here, but there is
also Chardonnay, Shiraz and other grapes.
My top wines: Katnook Estate,
Petaluma, Lindemans
(St.George Vineyard, Pyrus & Limestone Ridge).
Further
north, Padthaway produces some
excellent Chardonnay, as well as some sparkling wines.
The Adelaide
Hills, together with the Eden Valley
and Clare Valley further north
again, have also gained a reputation for some excellent
white wines. Adelaide has some excellent Chardonnay,
whereas both Eden and Clare have gained a reputation for
Riesling, although the latter also produces some very
significant Shiraz.
My top wines: Chain of Ponds, Penfolds
Chardonnay (Adelaide Hills), Wendouree, Grosset, Jim
Barry, Tim Adams, Leasingham (Clare), Pewsey Vale (Eden).
And now we
come to another of Australia's oldest and best known
regions, the Barossa Valley. Barossa made its
name with big, blockbuster Shiraz, but there are also
some good Semillon wines, although none to rival those of
the Hunter Valley. As well as numerous vineyards, there
are many wineries situated in the Barossa, vinifying
grapes trucked in from all over the state.
My top wines: Henshke, Mountadam,
Yalumba (Octavius), Peter Lehmann (Stonewell), St Hallett, Charles
Melton, Elderton, Grant Burge.
Nearer the
coast is McLaren Vale, an historic
region which has enjoyed a renaissance in recent years.
It is best known for its red wines.
My top wines:
Clarendon Hills, Rosemount (Balmoral
Syrah), Tatachilla, Chapel Hill, Chateau Reynella,
d'Arenberg.
Other Regions
On the
west coast the relatively cool climate Margaret
River has made dramatic leaps in quality. The
wines have gained a reputation for elegance rather than
power. Nearby is Great Southern, where there are
also some wines of interest, and the Swan Valley, a region
decreasing in significance.
My top wines: Cullen, Moss Wood, Mount
Mary, Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate, Evans & Tate,
Vasse Felix (all Margaret River) Howard Park, Goundrey
(Great Southern).
Tasmania,
off the coast of Victoria, is another cool climate region
that has seen expansion in recent years. The vineyards
are best suited to white varieties, and there are some
good table and sparkling wines appearing.
My top wines: Pirie sparklers, Piper's
Brook.
Vintages
It is not
uncommon to see wine publications offering advice on
vintages for the whole of Australia, or perhaps
individual states, suggesting that the climate across
this huge continent is uniform throughout the year, which
is plainly ridiculous. Fortunately, because of
Australia's enviable fine weather, vintages are slightly
less important than in Europe, where a spot of bad
weather can produce an array of weak, diluted wines and
thus ruin a vintage. Nevertheless, I'm not going to
generalise about vintages in Australia. Trying to be
specific, good vintages for Coonawarra Cabernet include
1998, 1996, 1994, 1991, 1990, 1986 and 1982.
New Zealand Wine Guide
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A country now well known for its unique,
intense style of Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand also
produces some excellent Chardonnay and Riesling. Until
recently the red wines have never been very impressive,
but recent vintages have demonstrated that this is no
longer the case. New Zealand is now responsible for some
good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot based wines, but is
also beginning to produce Pinot Noir of world-beating
quality.
Like Australia, some big names dominate the
industry. Montana, based in Auckland, is responsible for
much of the wine produced, releasing wines under its own
name as well as McDonald Winery. Other wineries
dominating the industry include Corbans (brands
Stoneleigh, Longridge) and Villa Maria (brands Vidal, Esk
Valley). Both are also based in Auckland. Together these
three account for well over half the wine produced in New
Zealand.
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South Island
It is the South
Island that produces the most significant wines. The Marlborough region, New
Zealand's largest, near the northern tip, is well
established as a the country's top region when it comes
to Sauvignon Blanc. It is the combination of good
ripening conditions combined with cool nights which
maintain natural acidity in the grapes that has made it
so successful. There is also some good Riesling.
My top wines: Isabel Estate, Fromm, Le
Brun, Cloudy Bay (including Pelorus, their excellent
sparkler), Hunter's, Grove Mill, Jackson Estate, Lawson's
Dry Hills, Montana.
Other
regions of the South Island include Nelson and Canterbury,
which includes Waipara. These are
somewhat overshadowed by Marlborough. Further south,
however, is a region which is certainly not overshadowed,
and that is Central Otago. The Pinot Noir
produced here is of ever increasing quality, and worth
looking out for.
My top wines: Felton Road (Central
Otago).
North Island
At the
southernmost tip is Wairarapa, which includes Martinborough.
Martinborough is
a small region which has seen success with mainly white
grapes, but also some wonderful Pinot Noir.
My top wines: Ata Rangi, Martinborough
Vineyard, Palliser (all Martinborough).
Hawke's
Bay, further north, has a warmer climate and a
history of success with red grapes as well as white. Some
wines produced are outstanding. Gisborne, conversely, has
mainly white varieties, whereas the vineyards of Waikato,
Auckland and the Bay of
Plenty are both known for reds and whites. In the
far north, Northland produces a small
amount of grapes.
My top wines: Esk Valley, McDonald
Winery, Te Mata, Vidal, CJ Pask (all Hawke's Bay),
Coopers Creek, Delegat's, Deutz, Selaks (all Auckland)
Vintages
New Zealand has had some good vintages recently, in
particular 2000. Opt for wines from this vintage if there
is a choice. Otherwise opt for the youngest vintage
available, as most Sauvignon Blanc will be better drunk
young rather than aged. As for reds. Central Otago had
good vintages in 1995 and 1996 for Pinot Noir. Older
vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines are
probably best avoided.
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