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Domaines Bunan

Take a left turn off the D559 just outside of Bandol - the domaine is signposted - and pass immediately beneath the autoroute which cuts a swathe through the Provençal countryside north of the town. It's a small, single lane tunnel with a semi-circular mouth, which opens out on the other side to reveal a road of similar width, which winds its way up into the hills above Bandol. Follow the ascent of the track, watching for the signs, and where there are no signs (not that often, to be fair) follow your nose. Just as the thought that you must have missed it enters your head, you will arrive at Domaines Bunan, high in the wooded hills.

This was how I first discovered Domaines Bunan, in 2005, when I edged my car up the narrow road at a gentle, exploratory pace. Three years later, on a flying visit to Bandol late in 2008, I was not so genteel. Having thundered down the aforementioned coastal autoroute from Nice in a hired car complete with temperamental sat-nav, I once again passed the familiar looking tunnel on my way up to Le Plan de Castellet where I had an early afternoon appointment. With a short window in my hectic schedule for the day, a quick detour up the winding road was too good to resist, and within a few minutes I was back at Domaines Bunan.

Domaines Bunan is home to the Bunan brothers, Paul and Pierre, who left Algeria in 1961 and purchased the estate once settled in France. There are in fact three Bandol domaines under their control, although only two under their ownership; these are Moulin des Costes and Mas/Chateau de la Rouvière. The third, Domaine de Bélouvé, they manage on a tenancy basis for the owner. There is much to do here, and they are fortunate in now being joined by the next generation; Paul's son trained in Beaune and Napa before returning to join his father and uncle and now plays a major role in developing the family domaines. Since then his sister, Françoise, and Pierre's daughter Claire have also joined the team, largely with marketing and PR responsibilities.

The Moulin des Costes

The heart of Domaines Bunan is Moulin des Costes, which lies at the end of that winding, hillside road. Here is where the harvest from the three domaines is vinified, separately, and subsequently aged and bottled. Surrounding the property are the 16 hectares of vineyards they acquired with their purchase, a complex terroir comprising clay, gypsum, limestone and sandstone. The land is planted mostly with Mourvèdre and Grenache vines which are on average 45 years old, although there are also plots of Syrah, Cinsault and even a few oddities such as Pecoui-Touar, an indiginous Provençal variety also known as Calitor. There is manual debudding, leaf-thinning and green harvesting, and a typical yield would be around 35 hl/ha (the 2003 vintage was, for example, 38 hl/ha). The Moulin des Costes Bandol is predominantly Mourvèdre, typically 70-75%, and includes Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah to make up the balance, the exact blend depending on the vintage (the 2003 was 71% Mourvèdre, 14% Cinsault, 9% Syrah and 6% Grenache). The wine is harvested by hand, 100% destemmed and then fermented with temperature control in a mix of steel and wooden vats with 21 days of maceration, followed by 18 months in oak. There is also a rosé where Mourvèdre is mush less prominent, a typical blend being (as it was in 2006) 60% Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Grenache and 5% Ugni Blanc (although in 2007 it was 33% each of the red varieties, so clearly this depends very much on vintage). The grapes are pressed, then fermented in thermo-regulated steel vats and bottled the following spring. The white is predominantly Clairette, 50% in 2005, with the remainder of that vintage being 29% Bourboulenc, 18% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Ugni Blanc, and it is handled in a manner similar to the rosé.

Although this completes the Bandol firmament with one example of each colour, there is one further wine produced under this label, this being the Moulin des Costes Charriage. This has a similar blend to the red Bandol above, being predominantly Mourvèdre. The fruit is 100% destemmed and then macerated pre-fermentation, with daily pigeage thereafter and a total time in vat of approximately 31 days. It is then blended and aged in oak, and each time I have tasted it the barrel maturation leaves a prominent mark on the wine. It is a cuvée which might not appeal to those looking for the raw, savage and wild characteristics that Bandol can offer, but nevertheless this wine, with its honey-tinged fruit seems to receive numerous plaudits. All told there are typically more than 13000 cases of Moulin des Costes produced per annum, which is mostly rosé (6500 cases), with 5000 cases of red, 1200 cases of white and 700 cases of Cuvée Charriage.

Chateau de la Rouvière

Not satisfied with just Moulin des Costes, in 1969 the brothers acquired another nearby property, Chateau de la Rouvière. During my visit in 2008 I drove past the vineyards which are marked by a huge road-side sign on the approach to Castellet, a hill-top village of Medieval origin. There are just 2.5 hectares of steep, terraced vineyards, and they afford a good view across the plain and down to the Bec d'Aigle, a rocky crag which rises out of the Mediterranean. The vines are up to 50 years old and as you might expect Mourvèdre is dominant here, and the soils are mainly limestone, sandstone and marl. The fruit is hand-harvested at about 33 hl/ha, and naturally with such a small vineyard the production is limited, typically 1000 cases each of red and rosé and 400 cases of white per annum. The red wine is almost exclusively (usually 90-98%) Mourvèdre, with the balance Syrah and/or Grenache, fermented in temperature-controlled oak vats, and then matured in barrel for up to 18 months. Mourvèdre plays a lesser role in the rosé, where it accounts for about 30%, with 30% Cinsault and 40% Grenache being a typical composition. The fruit is pressed, cold-macerated and then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, and bottled the following spring. For the white it is a similar story, although the blend here is predominantly Clairette; this is likely to account for up to 90% of the blend, the rest being Ugni Blanc.

Alongside the chateau wines is the entry-level Mas de la Rouvière range, which in the case of the red wine tends to have less Mourvèdre, such as in the 2003 where there was 60% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 10% Syrah. The rosé is dominated by Cinsault, typically 60% with 20% each of Mourvèdre and Grenache, and the white is 100% Clairette. The wines can have appeal, although in my experience I think it is worth trading up for the chateau range, which can be delicious and very true to the appellation.

The range is rounded off by wines from Domaine Bélouvé, which I have never found offered for tasting at the domaine. I suspect this reflects the tenancy agreement rather than outright ownership; the estate, once run by a monastic order, is managed by the Bunan family but it would seem not heavily marketed. The wines are bottled under both the Bandol and Côtes de Provence appellations. There is also a generic Domaines Bunan label which is used for Bandol and, as I discovered on my most recent visit, a 100% Mourvèdre cuvée bottled as a vin de pays, as the Bandol appellation forbids wine made solely from one variety.

Both my visits to Domaines Bunan have been instructive, and I found the Bunan family to be warm and receptive. After my first visit I wrote that I was pleasantly taken aback by the quality of some of the wines, which was very good, and after my latest visit that impression has been maintained. And yet despite that the estate's profile remains rather low, hidden behind the likes of Domaine Tempier, Chateau de Pibarnon, Pradeaux and so on. Overall I feel that the Rouvière cuvées outstrip the others in terms of quality; the rosé is generally finer than that from Moulin des Costes, approximating to the quality found at Tempier or Pibarnon (although not quite there), with that same emphasis on structure and interesting aroma, rather than deep colour and flavour, which marks the finest pink Bandol. The red is generally excellent, showing great typicité and Mourvèdre character, and is well deserving of cellar time. (20/10/05, updated 18/11/08)

Contact details:
Address: 83740 La Cadière d'Azur
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 94 98 58 98
Fax: +33 (0) 4 94 98 60 05
Internet: www.bunan.com

Domaines Bunan - Tasting Notes

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Moulin des Costes Bandol Blanc 2007: Clairette 70%, the rest Sauvignon Blanc, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc. Bright and fresh fruit here on the nose. A firm and steely midpalate, and a rather bitter grip to it, although it shows softer fruit at the finish. A rustic style, it is good although perhaps a touch coarse. It may soften with a little time in bottle. 15+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau la Rouvière Bandol Blanc 2007: Predominantly Clairette, 90% in fact. A small proportion, 10%, is barrel-fermented. A clean and slightly herby nose here. The palate is softer and rounded than the Moulin des Costes, but it still has a steely grip. A touch peppery. Very fresh but also firm, and lots of impact and grip at the finish. I prefer this to the Moulin des Costes in this vintage. 15.5+/20 (October 2008)

Moulin des Costes Bandol Rosé 2007: This is 33% each Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. Creamy strawberry and herbs on the nose, and a gentle and rather fleshy palate. There is a peppery, dusty element to it. It doesn't have the vinosity, definition or vigour of the best rosés. 14/20 (October 2008)

Chateau la Rouvière Bandol Rosé 2007: This has a much brighter nose, with cleaner and better defined fruit, and a touch of leaf. Round and peppery on the palate, rather lean at first, seemingly stretched out, but a more composed midpalate. Actually this is really nicely put together, and is rather more taut than the Moulin des Costes. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Domaines Bunan Mourvèdre (VdP du Mont Caume) 2006: This is 100% Mourvèdre and thus excluded from the Bandol appellation. An expressive nose, restrained but sweet fruit overlaid with complex leather, stone and savage, animal character. A little baked earth too. Nicely structured, broad and composed, a wild and brawny character to the fruit but still bright and fresh. A little richness in the midpalate, good grip and acidity too. Really good. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Moulin des Costes Bandol Rosé 2004: Good, although rather bold, colour. Leafy red fruit nose, rather simple but easy to appreciate. Dry, with fresh acidity, and a good fruit profile. Firm, appealing, liquorice-laced finish. This has its good points. Drink now. 15+/20 (August 2005)

Chateau la Rouvière Bandol Rosé 2004: A paler, more subtle hue when compared with the Moulin des Costes. A less expressive nose; more restrained, more refined, with a finer structure on the palate. A little reticent perhaps, but with some good style. Drink now. 15.5/20 (August 2005)

Moulin des Costes Bandol 2003: This is 71% Mourvèdre. A warm, expressive, dark fruit and animalistic character on the nose. The palate is appealing, showing a well composed and supple style but with plenty of midpalate tannin. Great firm acidity despite the warm vintage. Aromatic fruit too. This is really very good. 17+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau la Rouvière Bandol 2003: Here we have 90% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah. A very aromatic and complex nose here, organic and enticing, with roasted herbs, more baked earth and stone seasoned with just a bare trace of caramel richness. A lovely start on the palate, creamy but with good grip beneath. Nevertheless despite this classic structure it has elegance. This is a huge vin de garde which I find very appealing. 17.5-18+/20 (October 2008)

Moulin des Costes Bandol Charriage 2002: Two years in barrel after fermentation. Still evident oak on the nose, with a toffee-caramel element interwoven with the classically savage, animalistic fruit. Very creamy in style, more modern and accessible despite the firm tannic backbone still evident underneath. Good grip and substance here. Very appealing but I will warm to it more when the oak is more integrated I think. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Mas de la Rouvière Bandol 2002: This is the lower rung from Chateau la Rouvière; as such it is less dominated by Mourvèdre than the top wines, with just 55%, then 20% Grenache Noir, 20% Cinsault and 5% Syrah. It has an attractively dark hue, with the colour of early maturity. The nose has some very typical animalistic Mourvèdre character at first, before moving on to a more complex array of beef stock, sweet and mentholated fruit with a note of cherry, cola and burnt liquorice. Rather lean on entry, but it shows a little more substance in the midpalate. Fresh, rounded, with solid alcohol and tannin beneath, but what fruit richness it had has been replaced by a reserved character with a dusty, oily edge. Quite stern in terms of structure; this is a wine that performs much better with food. From a Yapp tasting. 14.5/20 (November 2008)

Moulin des Costes Bandol 2001: Mourvèdre 75%, Grenache 25%. A dark hue, with a dark fruit nose. Brooding, stony, with a great presence of dark, roasted fruits. Ripe, mouth-filling, but with fairly low acidity. A warm, ripe wave of tannins on the midpalate gives some welcome structure. Good, with very good potential. 16+/20 (August 2005)

Moulin des Costes Bandol Charriage 2001: Mourvèdre 98%, Grenache 2%. A cuvée from old vines on specific plots. First into barrique, then into 600 l casks. Very dark wine. Sweet, roasted meat on the nose, still showing plenty of sweet oak. Somewhat international in style. Lovely palate though, intense and with great extract, and lovely ripe tannin. A very different style, with great intrinsic quality, although divergent from my preferred style of Bandol. 17.5+/20 (August 2005)

Chateau la Rouvière Bandol 2001: Mourvèdre 98%, Grenache 2%. A very dark hue; great colour. What a fantastic nose. Showing super typicity, with plenty of animal fur and roast meat style. Very sauvage. Firm palate; lovely fruit, weighty presence, with a wealth of ripe tannins. Great concentration, and fine balance too. Delicious and approachable now there is so much fruit, but would do very well in the cellar for a decade. Great potential. 18+/20 (August 2005)