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Quinta do Vesuvio
Quinta do Vesuvio has rocketed to fame during just a few years of ownership
by the Symington family, who are well known to anyone who has more than a
passing interest in what comes out of the Douro. Nevertheless, the estate has
considerable history, starting with the Ferreira family who established the
vineyard in the
early 19th Century. Of these the most notable is Dona Antónia
Adelaide Ferreira, referred to locally as the Ferreirinha; she shaped, terraced
and planted the vineyards, a task which reputedly took thirteen years to
complete. And with the death of her husband, she continued to build on her
success, establishing a domaine which was descibed by James Suckling, writing
well over a century later in Vintage Port, as "The showpiece of the Douro". The
quinta she built (is there no end to this woman's talents?) is an impressive
building on the south bank of the Douro, midway between Numao and Lavandeira. It
contained eight massive granite lagares, each holding twenty-five pipes of wine;
not quite big enough for a game of five-a-side, but you could certainly have a
good kickabout with a couple of mates.
The wines produced here in the 19th Century were very well received. Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira developed her domaine, and her empire; she owned thirty separate quintas, and oversaw an expansion in her estate to over 400 ha, of which 100 ha was planted to vines, before her death in 1896. Her descendants managed the estate for the next century, but the property entered a period of slow decline, compounded by a number of disasters along the way. Phylloxera resulted in a loss of many of the vines, and these were replaced by thousands of olive trees which proved to be a bad business decision; they were quite unprofitable. The vineyard area declined, in part because some sites lying along the banks of the Douro were lost when the river was dammed in 1973. By the late 20th Century this left the estate ripe for an injection of new capital and new enthusiasm. This 'showpiece' was purchased by the Symingtons in 1989.
The Symington family, the clan responsible for some of Port's greatest names -
Graham's,
Dow's, and
Warre's to name just three - have maintained Quinta do Vesuvio as a separate entity within their portfolio, and have sensitively
blended some of the new winemaking techniques available with the traditional
practices already in place. Temperature-controlled
fermentation equipment has been installed, but the granite lagares, where the
grapes are still trodden by human foot, remain. Of the 400 ha, about 100 ha
remain planted, mostly with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga
Francesca and Tinta Barroca. With such a large area of vineyard it is only
natural that soils and microclimates vary, but the entire vineyard is classified
as grade A. The ancient olive trees are also put to good use; there is Quinta do
Vesuvio olive oil, as well as honey, almonds and oranges! The wine is bottled
exclusively as a single quinta vintage Port, with quality maintained by strict
selection; typically only 20-25% of Vesuvuio's output goes into the wine each
year. Although the total annual production of the estate is 575 pipes, the
quantity of Quinta do Vesuvio released each year stands at a maximum of 50 pipes
(it may be less depending on the vintage), the equivalent of 3000 cases.
(13/4/05)
Contact details:
Address: Travesa do Barão de Forrester, Apartado 26, 4401 Vila Nova de Gaia
Telephone: +351 22 377 6300
Fax: +351 22 377 6301
Internet:
www.quinta-do-vesuvio.com
Quinta do Vesuvio - Tasting Notes
Tasted in December 2006. Click
to locate
stockists:
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
1996: A vibrant yet deep red hue. The nose is quite enticing; initial notes
of toffee and fudge quickly and thankfully yield to reveal dark berry fruits
with a chocolate, fig and black pepper overtone. There is a little spirity
character also present, but on the palate there is a sense of great freshness,
vivacity and balance, There is a creamy richness, but backed up by rather
appealing tannins, perhaps slightly brutal but it is not unwelcome, as the
texture and pervasive nature of the wine more than compensates. Overall this is
quite lovely, more than a little evocative of the vintage ports I used to drink
as a student. The tannins noted previously are still providing a lovely
backbone, but are not troublesome, and are in fact very attractive part of this
wine's masculine composition. Very good indeed. From a
1996 vintage ten years on
tasting. 17+/20
Tasted in March 2006:
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 1995: A good, rich, opaque purple
colour. Very sweet fruit on the nose, just a little spirity although this does
quickly dissipate. Underneath, quite pleasing, with some dark blackberry-like
fruit and a faint twist of cigars. Sweet, full, creamy fruit on the palate. Very
firm structure still showing, both from alcohol and tannin; this is a still an
adolescent. Sweet berry fruits, figs, and more. Very good length. Has potential,
but needs time in the cellar. 16.5+/20
Tasted in May 2005:
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
2003: Super ripe, perfumed nose here. Feminine and elegant. Seamless, and
again a great depth of fresh fruit. Very expressive. Beneath the fruit hides the
firm, tannic structure. Great, precise finish. This is simply super - another
great vintage from Vesuvio. From a
2003 Vintage Port
assessment. 18+/20
Tasted with Peter Symington in November 2004:
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 1994: A
beautiful, desne colour. Dark, yet floral aromas. Big, sweet, intense and very
impressive palate. Firmly tannic, creamy, plenty of structure with correct
acidity. Needs 10 years as a minimum. Great potential. 18+/20
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 1996:
Slightly less dense than the 1994. Beautiful, floral nose, aromatic and
attractive. Moderate concentration, sweet and balanced. Creamy. The most
approachable wine here, with appealing elegance, but there is still a wall of
tannin at present. Needs 5-10 years minimum. 16.5+/20
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 1997: Dense
colour, and a depth of fruit to be found on the nose. Rich, creamy, with a
svelte balance. There’s a massive firm core of tannins here, more so than the
1996, with sweet, floral fruit. Lots of structure and potential. Lovely.
17.5+/20
Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2000: A
very solid, dense hue. A concentrated nose, still showing wafts of unintegrated
alcohol. Massive palate. Very creamy, in equipoise with a wealth of tannin.
Great fruit and sweetness. Tremendously impressive. This has a super finish.
Needs 15-20 years. 18+/20
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