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Cloudy Bay

The Cloudy Bay phenomenon actually began in Western Australian, where David and Mark Hoehnen had established the Cape Mentelle winery in the Margaret River region. It was David that left this relatively new and successful venture on a journey of discovery, following his first taste of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in 1983. His fact finding mission allowed him to identify Marlborough as the region responsible for this great new expression of Sauvignon, and the following year the die was cast with the purchase of a tract of vineyard, a small part of the 140 hectares that are now farmed at Cloudy bay, where he set about making a Sauvignon Blanc to match the one he had tasted only two years previously. And so Cloudy Bay Vineyards was born, although the first vintage, 1985, preceded the existence of any winery or similar construction, and the fruit was vinified in Gisborne. Nevertheless, the wine was an instant success, and subsequent vintages of the Sauvignon Blanc rarely seem to disappoint Cloudy Bay acolytes. More than twenty vintages on, the lustre does not seem to have faded. The wine seems to have a unique position in the UK, where it is in high demand, with prices pushed skywards, whereas in the USA and Australia this cult reputation does not seem to have developed. Sales continue to be strong, but today there is much more to Cloudy Bay than Sauvignon Blanc, the portfolio also including some good sparkling wines as well as varieties other than Sauvignon. The most notable change in recent years has been the purchase of Cloudy Bay, as well as Cape Mentelle, by LVMH in 2003. As a result David Hoehnen was replaced by new managing director Tony Jordan, although winemaker Kevin Judd, who has been at Cloudy Bay since the inaugural vintage, was kept on.

The vineyards of Cloudy Bay, which incidentally is named for the bay at the eastern extremity of the Wairau Valley, one of Marlborough's principal viticultural districts, are divided between three distinct sites. The principle site is around the winery at Rapaura, in the Wairau Valley, whilst the remaining two sites are at Renwick and in the Brancott Valley. In addition, there are also five long-term contract growers, dotted along the length of the Wairau Valley, who work closely with Cloudy Bay. The vines are predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, unsurprisingly, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir making up the bulk of the remainder. These three varieties obviously dominate the Cloudy Bay range, which opens with the Pelorus sparkling wines. There is a non-vintage cuvée which is based on Chardonnay and which is aged in bottle, on the lees, for up to two years before disgorgement. The vintage cuvée, introduced in 1987, is more Pinot Noir in constitution, and sees barrel fermentation and oak ageing, and can spend up to three years in the bottle before disgorgement. There are two Sauvignon Blanc cuvées, the aforementioned flagship wine and also the relatively new Te Koko (the name Te Koko is derived from Te Koko-o-Kupe, the original Maori name for Cloudy Bay, before it was unceremoniously renamed by Captain James Cook in 1770), in which Sauvignon Blanc is essentially handled like Chardonnay, seeing a barrel fermentation and malolactic, before eighteen months oak ageing on the lees prior to bottling. It is a unique and certainly distinctive style which is not to everyone's taste. The range is complemented by a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both of which see maturation in French oak. There is in addition a rarely-sighted late harvest Riesling.

There is no denying that Cloudy Bay is a phenomenon, and many would say it is little more than a marketing phenomenon. Certainly the difference in demand, and price, when comparing the UK with other markets such as New Zealand and Australia, would suggest that there was a grain of truth to this thought. But those that decry the wine on this basis are throwing the baby out with the bathwater, because whatever the reason behind the high price in the UK, it is impossible to deny the quality of the wine, even if it is not your own preferred style. Nevertheless, I do think it a little sad that the Sauvignon Blanc overshadows the rest of the Cloudy Bay range, as there are some good wines here. I know that some favour the Chardonnay, but I myself have a sneaking and closely held admiration for Te Koko. Considered an abomination in some quarters, I approve of effort that has been put into developing this wine, and appreciate the gravity and structure that the processes lend it. And for those that suggest the combination of Sauvignon Blanc and oak is anathema, may I tentatively suggest that Pavillon Blanc de Chateau Margaux would indicate otherwise? (18/1/07)

Contact details:
Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Jackson Road, PO Box 376, Blenheim, Marlborough
Telephone: +64 (0) 3 520 9140
Fax: +64 (0) 3 520 9040
Internet: www.cloudybay.co.nz

Cloudy Bay - Tasting Notes

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Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2007: A very, very pale hue. A bright blast of grassy fruit on the nose, with powerful lemon cream character presented in a very well defined, fresh style. Notes of asparagus and in-your-face gooseberry. On the palate it is big, quite minerally, with sweetly ripe and yet fresh and green fruit, which obviously sounds paradoxical. Fruit pastille character, lots of fresh acidity, and a big and creamy finish. An excellent example of the style. From a New Zealand tasting. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: New Zealand's most famous wine, I am sure; I last tasted this vintage two years ago. This has a very pure nose, loaded with asparagus, creamy yellow fruits and even a little gooseberry. Very fine, well defined, rich, full and surprisingly creamy, this is a substantial wine which fills out very nicely on the palate, and which even seems to have a little grip at the end. Good length too. From a tasting with Woodwinters. 17+/20 (November 2008)

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: A really pungent nose, very green, with lots of creamy asparagus swirled with crisp and crunchy capsicum. Full, almost creamy on the palate, as there is a lot of weight and texture. Broad-shouldered, really quite stylish, and undeniably a crowd-pleaser. I can see the attraction, although it is not really my style. 17/20 (November 2006)

Cloudy Bay Chardonnay (Marlborough) 2006: Fresh, smoky oak, fat and tropical fruit on the nose; the fruit is defined and appealing, though, despite that suggestion of fat richness. Indeed it is fresh and nicely textured on the palate, with lots of smoky substance; the barrels are still in evidence here. Good firm acidity though, giving a fine frame for the oaky fruit. A good wine which opened out nicely in the glass, and which is certainly still on the way up. Tasted at an LVMH dinner. 16.5+/20 (May 2009)

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2004: Cherry fruit on the nose, with a little earth and sous bois, presented in quite an attractive, lifted style. Nice, restrained, clean fruit on the palate, with peppery youth. Some nice grip in the background, and a decent texture. Not premier league Pinot for NZ, but good enough. 15.5/20 (November 2006)

Cloudy Bay Te Koko (Marlborough) 2003: This is 100% barrel-fermented in new and used French oak, and a proportion of the wine also undergoes malolactic fermentation. It has an interesting nose of herb-infused butter and barrel-ferment notes. Richly composed, overtly oaky on the palate, with a curious juxtaposition of green fruit and buttercream flesh, with a broad, grippy, wood-influenced base. It has style, but will not be to everyone's taste. I admit I rather admire it, not least for its idiosyncratic personality. 17/20 (November 2006)

Cloudy Bay Chardonnay (Marlborough) 2003: A fairly pale hue, which is surprising in light of the nose, which offers up the butterscotch aromas of new oak, and the smoking-fat-straight-from-the-frying-pan character that sings of new oak barrel fermentation. There are at least some perceptible quinine-laced fruit aromas on the palate, of the tropical and citrus variety, but unsurprisingly this is a big, full-bodied style, with so much oak it takes on quite a bitter twang. Decent acidity though. I can only hope, for the sake of the grapes, that the oak becomes more integrated with age. 15+/20 (January 2006)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) 2002: The first bottle was plainly corked; remarkably there was some debate as to this fact. The second was fine, showing a richer, toffee-tinged nose. This character comes through on the palate as well, but it also has a very incisive style rather like the non-vintage bottling. There is a lifted mousse, and the finish is just lovely. Great style. From a New Zealand tasting. 17+/20 (October 2007)

Cloudy Bay Te Koko (Marlborough) 2002: We are undeniably and incontrovertibly in New Zealand with this wine, with its pungent nose dominated by aromas of cut grass, asparagus, greengage and tinned green beans (not everyone's cup of tea), all backed up by a cream-cake richness. This typicity is evident on the palate, which like the nose shows little of the oak characteristics I might have expected, rather akin to the 1999 vintage, tasted when that wine was three years old. Good structure though, and pungently obvious flavours like the nose, led by a note of yellow capsicum. Precisely refreshing acidity, and a grippy undercurrent which is the most prominent feature of this wine's exposure to oak, together with a fairly rich, buttercream texture. Overall pretty good, and lovers of the New Zealand style will take to this like a duck to water. It's not really my cup of tea though, although I can register the quality, and I find the desire to break from the accepted norm admirable. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 16.5/20 (August 2006)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) 2000: This is 70% Pinot Noir, also kept on the lees for a good length of time. It has a slightly vegetal, iodine and apple nose which I think I like. The palate is attractive full and weighty, although cut with a nettly greenness. This has much more evident Pinot character than the non-vintage, and certainly has a touch more class and interest. Possibly suitable for short-term ageing. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)

Cloudy Bay Te Koko (Marlborough) 1999: Intense New World Sauvignon fruit on the nose, which leads to a classic palate full of fresh white fruit, with considerable power. Surprising weight and creamy texture for this variety, reflecting the barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic and eighteen months lees contact that this wine has undergone - very unusual treatment for a Sauvignon. It's backed up by great acidity. This is clearly one of New Zealand's top efforts. 17/20 (February 2002)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) 1994: A fairly pale hue, but with a good tight bead. Very cheesy, developed nose, meaty, green vegetables. Too far into secondary development really. Firm palate, sharp, flavours as on the nose. Plenty of fresh acidity, and a creamy edge though. Long but sharp finish. Drink up. From a Ten Years On tasting of the 1994 vintage. 14.5/20 (December 2004)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) 1994: The colour is a deep onionskin hue. Fine bead. Looks tempting. It has a very rich, leesy, yeasty autolytic nose. Smells mature but fresh. Stylish! On the palate a creamy mousse, mature yeasty bready flavours, fresh acidity, beautifully poised. 17/20 (May 2000)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) NV: This is the current release of the non-vintage Pelorus, which is usually predominantly Chardonnay and which spends two years on the lees before disgorgement. Here the wine has leafy fruit on the nose, but with a little tropical, sweet, confected, sherbetty edge to it as well. There are also little hints of toffee, although they are certainly subtle. The palate seems clean though, showing pure white fruits and a good substance. An attractive wine, nicely framed by good acidity, this needs a year or two I think. From a tasting with Woodwinters. 16+/20 (November 2008)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) NV: Current release. Believed to be based predominantly on the 2003 vintage, and probably a different cuvée to that I tasted in November 2006. A nicely developed nose here, showing some richness, and a creamy, slightly honeyed character. Bright and still youthful on the palate though, with a tinge of green fruit in the background. Attractive though. Firm and vivacious. Very good. From a New Zealand tasting. 16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)

Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough) NV: Current release. Predominantly Chardonnay, 60% in fact, and kept on the lees for 18 months. An attractive, fresh and green and yet smoky fruit, with a little edge of butter. Appealingly crisp style on the palate, the fruit very green in character, with a good weight. Finishes quite cleanly. Good style, rather simply composed, but in its defence it was served rather over-chilled. 16/20 (November 2006)