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Château Soucherie

Delve into the history of any appellation and you will always find a number of names which, although seemingly no longer present, do have a certain background significance, often a historical one. Take, for example, the Savennières appellation. Look beyond the obvious old-school names such as Joly (of Château de la Roches-aux-Moines, and proprietor of the Clos de la Coulée de Serrant) and Laroche (Domaine aux Moines) and you find landlords such as Baron Brincard (of Château de la Bizolière), a wealthy individual with a huge estate who rented out vines to many of the most important vignerons. Or the individual concerned may have made their mark not through ownership of land but simply through their colourful and flamboyant character, such as Gordon Pirie (of Château de Varennes). Each year Pirie would arrive at Varennes from Scotland with a huge entourage; to see the face of Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand (of Domaine du Closel) light up as she recounts the tale of Pirie's arrival is to understand what a sight it must have been (even though I know she could not have witnessed this 19th-century spectacle for herself).

Or of course you may find traces of Anjou aristocracy, names like Touchais (as in the famed Coteaux du Layons of Moulin Touchais) or Boivin. Alternatively, they may be proprietors of defunct, disappeared or fading domaines, such as François Roussier of Clos de Coulaine (since Roussier's retirement in 2001 these vines have been rented by Claude Papin of Château Pierre-Bise) or Pierre Soulez of Château de Chamboureau, an estate now absorbed into Philippe Fournier's Domaine FL. This latter category is perhaps the most appropriate for Pierre-Yves Tijou, of Château Soucherie, and for Eustache Poilasne of what was to become Soucherie's foothold in Savennières, the Clos des Perrières, although neither domaine nor vineyard could really be described as defunct.

The History of Château Soucherie

Château Soucherie is in fact an Anjou domaine, the majority of the vineyards located in the Anjou/Coteaux du Layon appellations close to those of Château Pierre-Bise and Château du Breuil, just to the west of Beaulieu-sur-Layon, so do not let my introduction lead you to believe otherwise. Nevertheless, it was through my explorations within Savennières that I first encountered the name of Soucherie and Tijou, first through Pierre-Yves' ownership of a notable 1.8-hectare clos within the appellation, the aforementioned Clos des Perrières, and more recently in the form of Mathieu Tijou, Pierre-Yves' youngest son, who has a small holding of vines within La Croix Picot.

The Tijou family, a well-established viticultural dynasty with links to some of the aforementioned Anjou aristocracy, acquired Château Soucherie from the Marquis de Brissac in 1952. It was not until 1968 that control passed to the aforementioned Pierre-Yves Tijou, when he took the reins handed him by his father. At that time the estate boasted more than 30 hectares of vines, predominantly surrounding the château in a large block stretching right down to the Layon, which runs nearby, as well as some in nearby Chaume. As already mentioned there were also some vines in Savennières, although these were acquired many years later, the Clos des Perrières in 1991 and a plot in La Croix Picot in 2002. This sums up the portfolio of vineyards as it stood when, in December 2007, Pierre-Yves and his wife Brigitte sold the château and vineyards to Roger Begûinot. Pierre-Yves kept back just a small plot of vines, the aforementioned 1.5 hectares within La Croix Picot which he passed on to his son, leaving Soucherie's new owners with a large swathe of Anjou/Coteaux du Layon vines, and the Clos des Perrières in Savennières.

New proprietor Roger Begûinot installed a new team, headed up by Thibaud Boudignon, who set about revitalising the domaine. For the 2007 vintage the fruit was already fermented in the cellar, so the team could do little but attend to the élevage, and thus the first vintage under the full control of the Begûinot-Boudignon partnership was 2008.

Vineyards and Wines

Today the Soucherie vineyards amount to 30 hectares all told, of which 24 hectares lie in a single block around the château which enjoys a commanding view over a sweeping vista of the Layon and her vineyards. The remaining six hectares are divided between Savennières (the Clos des Perrières, just short of 2 hectares) and the Chaume appellation, which contributes the remaining 4 hectares. On the whole the vineyards are worked by hand, with grassing over between rows, and working of the soil to control weeds, aerate and provide natural fertiliser. Boudignon's stated aim is to reinvigorate the soils, to allow them to express their terroir, although overall the vineyard philosophy seems closer to lutte raisonnée than anything more organic.

These vineyards, which give both dry and sweet wines under these appellations depending on the extent of botrytis and other features of the vintage, lie in a roughly north-south arrangement, running right down to the Layon at the southern-most point. Just to the west there runs a small tributary which no doubt enhances local humidity and this may encourage the appearance of botrytis. The soils have a sand and clay profile, the vines themselves pruned in a Guyot fashion. Under Tijou's direction there were perhaps five cuvées, not only a domaine wine, a vieilles vignes cuvée from vines in excess of 80 years of age and a Chaume (from vines in the Chaume appellation of course, not those directly adjacent to the château), but also several lieux-dits such as Le Mouchais. The range now seems to have been simplified somewhat, and the Mouchais vines now contribute to the vieilles vignes cuvées.

Looking at the Coteaux du Layon first, later-harvested or botrytised fruit yields both an entry-level domaine wine fermented one-third in oak, two-thirds en cuve, and a Vieilles Vignes cuvée. This latter wine is vinified entirely in oak, including a nine-month élevage. The same division of cuvées according to the age of the vines also applies to the Anjou cuvées, which originate from earlier harvested and non-botrytised fruit. The straight Anjou Blanc is 100% Chenin Blanc, the overall age of the vines approximately 30 years, and it is fermented in oak with a six-month élevage in the same barrels prior to bottling. Meanwhile, the Vieilles Vignes cuvée sees eight months in oak. There is also the aforementioned Chaume cuvée, the fruit for which originates from clay-schist soils and is picked by hand. This will see ten months in oak prior to going into bottle.

As for the red vines, these contribute to two cuvées of Anjou Rouge, a domaine-level wine which is 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Grolleau, and a special cuvée christened Champs aux Loups, which is 100% Cabernet Franc and which sees two years in oak. Alternatively, some fruit will be destined for rosé (see below).

The aforementioned Soucherie holding in Savennières is accounted for by a single plot of vines within the Clos des Perrières, a small vineyard lying within the town of Savennières itself, which Pierre-Yves Tijou had purchased from a small-time vigneron named Eustache Poilasne who lived within the walls of the clos. When Eustache, who also worked for the Laroche family of Domaine aux Moines, finally hung up his secateurs in 1991, he sold the clos to Pierre-Yves.

Today there are 1.8 hectares of vines planted here, the soils underfoot showing the typical diversity of the appellation, with areas of sand, volcanic stones, schist and granite. Once harvested by hand the fruit is fermented in oak, the wine then spending nine months in the same, followed by four months en cuve on its lees. The malolactic is not actively encouraged although it does occur, nevertheless with the strong oak influence evident in this cuvée I think it fair to say that Soucherie lies within the modern camp as far as Savennières is concerned.

There are also examples of Rosé de Loire, a mix of 70% Grolleau and 30% Gamay, a Cabernet d'Anjou which is 100% Cabernet Franc, and a Crémant de Loire which is 70% Chenin Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. There are also vin de pays Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Soucherie: Tasting & Drinking

Overall I have been impressed by the wines of Château Soucherie. My first encounter with the wines of the Begûinot-Boudignon regime were both from the 2007 vintage which - even though they only gained full control after the harvest - clearly suggested good quality, especially the Savennières. Tasting further examples of the wines with the Soucherie team in Angers in 2011, this time taking in more recent vintages in which Begûinot and Boudignon had complete control, further reinforced my first impressions. As I have indicated above the Savennières is in the modern style, but exceptionally good with it.

My most recent encounter, though, was tasting blind when judging the Decanter World Wine Awards. In one flight there were two particularly good examples of Savennières; one was intensely mineral and showed great fruit definition, and clearly deserved a gold medal (subsequently elevated to trophy it has to be said - the Domaine FL 2008 Savennières Chamboureau), whereas the next was clearly in a more modern style, with oak on top of the richer fruit. It reminded me of the wines of Damien Laureau, although I doubted very much that he would have submitted his wines to the competition. But the wines had that same, modern oak-mediated polish that reminds me, perhaps synaesthetically, of the silvery hue of weathered teak.

Suffice to say I was, as far as the likely identity of the vigneron or domaine in question, mystified. Nevertheless, what was important in the context of this wine competition was the quality, assessed blind, not guessing the identity of the source; and as it was an excellent example of the modern style I pushed for gold, but the weight of opinion was against me, and with three-to-one against it took a silver medal (that's tasting panels for you!). A well deserved award for, as it turned out, the 2009 Clos de Perrières from Château Soucherie; on returning to my notes from earlier in the year, I see I was likening the Soucherie style to that of Damien Laureau back then, both with the Anjou (which also subsequently picked up a Decanter gong from our panel) and Savennières. These are, it seems to me, wines worth looking out for. (16/8/11)

Contact details:
Address: La Soucherie, 49750 Beaulieu sur Layon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 31 18
Internet: www.domaine-de-la-soucherie.fr

Château Soucherie - Tasting Notes

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Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc 2009: Hand harvested from vines averaging 30 years of age. Fermented en fut, with 3-4 months in new barriques thereafter, bottled June 2010. Rather a stony, elegant style, very straight but with a soft relaxed core, rather reminiscent of some Savennières (from Laureau, and of course Soucherie's own). The palate in keeping with this first impression, both elegant and with a good gritty substance at its core. A fine grip too, polished, with a nice weight, but freshness too. Overall a nicely polished wine with a sappy substance to it, and a good acid backbone. 16/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2009: The vines for this cuvée are reported to be 110 years old. As with the straight Anjou Blanc, this is also fermented en fut. with an élevage in new barrique before bottling. Less expressive and less easy-going on the nose than the straight Anjou Blanc. It has that same, polished, Soucherie style though, which tells of the oak. It is just a little more elegant on the palate perhaps, with a finer definition to the fruit, and a more precise midpalate acidity. A very attractive and certainly elegant wine. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Savennières Clos des Perrières 2009: The house style is maintained here, new oak giving this a modern feel. Nevertheless it is very fresh and expressive aromatically, quite smoky and polished reflecting that use of oak. On the palate there is quite a pure style of fruit, defined and direct, but the oak dominates both the nose and the palate here. It gives a lot of grip but it does also brings a lot of golden oak character with it. It has an elegant style, but this needs time to integrate. 18/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Coteaux du Layon 2009: This cuvée sees out both fermentation and élevage en cuve, in contrast to all the other Soucherie wines which are managed in oak. Harvested in several tries. Residual sugar 80 g/l. Aromatically it has a fresh, light, aperitif style, dominated by light citrus fruit. On the palate this fresh and light-footed character persists in terms of flavour, all citrus and stone fruit, pears and white peach, but there is an attractive grip underneath it all. There is a gently balanced acidity, but the grippy style perhaps contributes a little more to the structure. Not so light and straightforward as the nose suggests. 16/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Coteaux du Layon Vieilles Vignes 2009: Harvested in tries, with fermentation and fifteen-month élevage en barrique. Residual sugar 120 g/l. This is certainly convincing in terms of aromatics, showing a slightly more honeyed depth to the nose, although still with a fine and appreciated freshness to it. There is good and elegant substance on the palate, showing a nicely honeyed, apricot richness. And a tangible grip to it as well, with a well formed acid backbone too. The purity and clean lines of definition are what set this wine apart. Very good. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Chaume 2009: This was a barrel sample for the Salon. This is handled in the same manner as the Layon Vieilles Vignes, with fermentation and élevage in barrique, with fifteen months here before bottling. An attractive nose which shows some of the depth that Chaume should have, elegant, well formed, with the polished, silvery teak of new oak typical of Soucherie. The palate is also impressive, with apricot and orange pith sweetness, plus some evident quince and herbal tea elements, with grippy structure underpinning it all. This is a good effort, having both depth and quality, but also the acidity needed to break it up. A lovely effort. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Chaume 2008: Fermentation and élevage in barrique, with fifteen months here before bottling. Residual sugar 120 g/l. A rich and golden hue here. Quite lifted and pure on the nose, with a very crystalline fruit character, lightly golden, with a touch of sage and mint here, betraying the underlying quality of the vintage I think. Nicely textured, sweet and gentle, although there is more grip coming in at the middle. It has none of the depth or vigour that I look for in Chaume, but it does have something to it. Attractive in that respect. There is also a rather dried-fruit character to it - suggestive of extensive passerillage, perhaps? All the same, promising wine. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Soucherie Savennières Clos des Perrières 2007: This is the first vintage under new management at Soucherie, the new winemaker Thibaud Boudignon having started in 2007, the sale to Roger Begûinot having completed in December that year. It has a very pale golden hue in the glass, and an enticing aroma on the nose, of ripe golden fruits with a dried, honeyed edge, minerals and a bright, lightly crystalline quality. A fine style on the palate, full but structured, broad and well balanced, gently fleshy with a touch of glycerine texture, and generous but underpinned by good grip and acidity. This has a fine quality, with no notable oak influence, and great composition. Although approachable now this will keep well I am sure. From a tasting of wines imported by Vinifera Boutique. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Soucherie Coteaux du Layon Vieilles Vignes 2007: Another example of Soucherie under new management. This has a relatively pale but pure, golden hue in the glass. This is a lovely vintage for sweet wines in the Loire, often giving a very crystalline fruit structure, and this wine is no exception. There is a very well defined golden-fruit character, lightly autumnal, but it is that defined purity that is most noticeable. There is a tinge of botrytis richness, and no doubt this will have a greater effect on the wine the longer it is cellared. Right now the palate is sweet, viscous, fairly bright and certainly pure and honeyed, with a very marrowy flesh building through the middle and lingering for a long time at the end. A delicious wine with great potential; very simple although enjoyable now, but with time in the cellar this could be divine. From a tasting of wines imported by Vinifera Boutique. 17+/20 (October 2009)

Château Soucherie Coteaux du Layon Chaume 2007: A slightly paler golden hue here than in some wines. A rather prominent volcanic bath-salt and mineral aroma on the nose, lending the wine a rather perfumed, chalky feel. The same character comes through on the palate, which has light layers of yellow-gold fruits but a much more prominent pithy acidity than expected, masking the handsome residual sugar at present. In the middle the texture and sweetness does build a little but it maintains that pure, minerally, pale fruit character, with hints of white peach sprinkled with minerals. An attractive wine but done in a very clean style. Residual sugar 120 g/l, alcohol 12.5%. From a tasting of 2007 Loire Sweet Wines. 17/20 (February 2012)