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Le Rocher des Violettes

Xavier Weisskopf, the proprietor of Le Rocher des Violettes, does not hail from a long line of vignerons; he is the latest in a string of recent arrivals to viticulture, and to the Loire. Nevertheless he and his ilk, led in spirit by the likes of François Chidaine and Jacky Blot, are breathing new life into the once-sorry Montlouis appellation. Having been born in Beauvais near Rouen in northern France, some distance from the nearest vineyards, I think it is fair to say that Xavier's early years were not touched by the vine. It was only when, having completed his baccalauréat, he moved on to higher education in Chablis, that he first encountered the vine and viticulture. Entranced by his new discovery he moved deeper into Burgundy territory, subsequently enrolling at Beaune in order to study viticulture and oenology.

In 2001, with his certificates in hand, Xavier (pictured left) began work with Louis Barruol at Château St Cosme, a well-known estate in Gigondas. He stayed for three years, gaining some useful experience, before he left to strike out on his own. He acquired 6.8 hectares of vines (the domaine has grown somewhat since) and some cellars in Amboise, which lies just upstream of Montlouis-sur-Loire, Lussault-sur-Loire and St-Martin-le-Beau, the three main communes of the Montlouis appellation, which is where the majority of his vines are located. Like other new arrivals he was, I suspect, drawn by the affordable prices, a sorry side effect of Montlouis' faded reputation as a source of wine. And yet, paradoxically, this period of neglect and disinterest has ultimately been of benefit to us, the consumers, who can now enjoy wave after wave of excellent wines emerging from this newly revivified appellation. Xavier joined this happy mêlée in 2004, releasing his first wines in the 2005 vintage.

The Vineyards

Today Xavier has 13 hectares of vines, of which 9 hectares are AC Montlouis and the other 4 hectares are AC Touraine in St Martin-le-Beau. The Montlouis vines are naturally 100% Chenin Blanc, whereas those in Touraine are mostly red, being led by Cot, Grolleau and Cabernet Franc, although there is also some Sauvignon Blanc.

The vines are on the whole very old, with most having been planted before 1940, and a small number passed their 100th birthday long ago. They are generally planted at a density of 6500 vines per hectare, with 7500 per hectare in the lieu-dit Le Négrette. The soils are composed of clay supporting elements of flint, sand and chalk, with a deeper bedrock of tuffeau. The vines are tended without use of chemicals or artificial fertiliser, and in 2009 Xavier began working towards full organic certification. The harvest is manual, the yields in the order of 30 hl/ha although as usual it varies from plot to plot, cuvée to cuvée, and the fruit is taken from the vineyard to the cave using small trays to minimise damage.

The Wines of Le Rocher des Violettes

Each parcel is vinified separately in Xavier's 15th-century cave, which lies near the centre of Amboise. The élevage takes place either in Alliers oak or en cuve for 6-24 months, according to the cuvée in question. He doesn't actively seek malolactic fermentation, but sometimes it occurs anyway, as it did in the 2008 vintage, for example.

The first of the Montlouis cuvées is Touche Mitaine, from the lieu-dit of the same name, a wine which originates from 4 hectares of Xavier's youngest vines (the average age is about 30 years). The yield is 35 hl/ha, and after pressing and settling the juice is transferred into older oak barrels, typically four or five years old, where both fermentation and élevage occur. It sees out a year in oak before bottling just before the following year's fruit is ready to go into the barrels.

One step up is La Négrette, which comes from older vines, generally 70 to 80 years of age, and again the name of the cuvée reflects the name of the lieu-dit of origin. The Négrette vines are on a south-facing slope at the upper end of St-Martin-le-Beau, bordering the forest of Amboise. Once in the cave the fermentation and élevage is again in Alliers oak, this time with 30% new barrels, for between 18 and 20 months. Les Borderies is sourced from a tri through 1 hectare of 80-year old vines, with a typical yield of 30 hl/ha. Fermented in wood, the fruit then passes just six months in 600-litre demi-muids which are 2-3 years old. A demi-sec, the residual sugar is typically 15 g/l.

Finally, as far as Montlouis and the vins tranquilles go, there is a moelleux cuvée from the oldest vines which average over one hundred years of age. The smallest plot at 0.8 hectares, these vines yield 20 hl/ha, and after fermentation and six months in Alliers futs the wine generally holds on to about 120 g/l residual sugar. There is the almost obligatory pétillant cuvée as well, the Pétillant Originel, which originates from older vines.

Although no doubt many who come to Le Rocher des Violettes will do so in their hunt for Montlouis, this is one address where you should not ignore the Touraine cuvées in my opinion. This very broad appellation provides a home for many vignerons of which just a small number have established grand reputations with an almost cultish standing, names such as Henri Marionnet and Clos Roche Blanche. Xavier Weisskopf is clearly on the same level, and given appropriate support, from commentators and importers, these wines could be just as eagerly hunted as his Montlouis cuvées before long. There is a Sauvignon Blanc, harvested at 15 hl/ha from just a single hectare of vines, but it is the two red cuvées that really excite my palate.

The Cot Vieilles Vignes comes from vines over 65 years of age, including a number well past their 100th birthday, planted on sandy-clay soils and harvested at about 25 hl/ha. The fruit sees a carbonic maceration en cuve, and there follows six months in two-year old Alliers oak. The Cabernet Franc comes from less elderly vines, about 30 years of age, again just 1 hectare, harvested at about 30 hl/ha. Destemmed and also fermented en cuve, the wine sees daily remontage and pigeage followed by a year in three-year old Alliers oak. There is also, as an afterthought perhaps, a Touraine rosé.

Tasting and Drinking Le Rocher des Violettes

I first tasted the wines of Xavier Weisskopf barely minutes after those of Lise and Bertrand Jousset, and there was very little difference in terms of quality, with regard to the Montlouis cuvées at least. Both had lovely lift and purity, with a definition that set them apart from the wines of this appellation that I recall tasting 15 or 20 years ago, which were all soft and slight blurry, with a brown-sugar sweetness. If anything though, those from Le Rocher des Violettes perhaps had the greater sense of precision, but such differences are very minor, and both are clearly domaines to follow. If there was one arena where Xavier's portfolio was undoubtedly more convincing it was with his red wines, which were vibrant, perfumed and truly intense, and yet with no hint of richness or fat. I don't ever recall walking away from a tasting of Touraine rouge wondering where I might be able to buy the wines. That surely says something for their quality, and for the skill of the hand and palate that made them. I'm looking forward to tasting more from Xavier. (4/10/11)

Contact details:
Address: 38 rue du Rocher des Violettes, 37400 Amboise
Telephone: +33 (0) 6 15 96 52 47
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 23 57 82
Internet: www.lerocherdesviolettes.com
GPS: 47.416191, 0.99304

Le Rocher des Violettes - Tasting Notes

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Le Rocher des Violettes Montlouis Les Borderies 2010: From a clay and sand terroir, the fruit of some of Xavier's oldest vines, around 80 years. Fermented in 600-litre fûts which are 2-3 vintages old. A demi-sec, the residual sugar is 15 g/l. Still cloudy at the time of my tasting, before bottling, a sample drawn from the fût. Pretty and floral on the nose, with a little autumn fruit but overall a very clean character. A beautiful start on the palate, very floral with a lovely sweet substance following on behind. Still clearly an embryonic wine but nevertheless very fine. A grippy finish, over soft minerality, and a fresh, tingling acid core. Very good potential. 16.5-17.5/20 (January 2010)

Le Rocher des Violettes Montlouis Moelleux Passerillage 2010: The name may suggest otherwise, but there is fruit dehydrated through both botrytis and passerillage in this cuvée, says Xavier. A remarkable nose, the minerality dominating, despite the wines prodigious 120 g/l residual sugar. A lovely, relaxed and approachable style on the palate, fresh and with a very volcanic, sweet, soft minerality. It is backed up by a very pleasing fine-boned acid core. This is very young, but it is showing very nicely and is certainly full of potential. A lovely and composed style with fine balance and a filigree delicacy rather than intensity despite that sugar. Lovely. 17-18/20 (January 2010)

Le Rocher des Violettes Touraine Cot Vieilles Vignes 2010: Seriously old vines here, ranging from 65 to 119-years old. Yield 25 hl/ha. Carbonic maceration in whole bunches, then switched into barrel for the malolactic fermentation, and once this is finished it goes into bottle for three months before release. A fine colour, dark and intense. Lovely fruit on the nose, not sweet or confected in any way, all dark berries, fresh and pure. Similarly fresh style on the palate, light but appealing with an appropriate substance. What really entices is the beautifully perfumed character, floral elements. Nice ripe structure behind a rather fresh, acid-framed fruit palate. Very attractive. 15-16/20 (January 2010)

Le Rocher des Violettes Touraine Cabernet Franc 2010: Not such old vines here, about 30 years. Yield 30 hl/ha. The bunches were fermented with pigeage, then into barrel for one year, to be bottled October 2011. Fresh and pretty fruit, with floral tones although these are less prominent than in the Cot. A violet perfume with supple fruit skins, plum and damson. On the palate I find the same, lovely polished fruit and lots of bright acidity underneath. The acidity gives it freshness, the lightly tannic grip some structure. There is rather a chalky edge to the fruit but the substance and perfume covers this very nicely. Lovely wine. 15-16/20 (January 2010)

Le Rocher des Violettes Montlouis Touche-Mitaine Sec 2009: The vines are 30-years old on average. Argilo-siliceux soils. Yield 35 hl/ha. Fermented en fût, a mix of 400- and 225-litre barrels which have seen 4-5 vintages, which is perhaps why the oak doesn't show through in the finished wine. A different style here, although this has an extra year in hand of course. More of a soapstone, perfumed minerality. Attractive, fresh and clean, initially showing very polished edges, a good if rather stony but well judged substance, and then in the midpalate a profound minerality and a very firm, defining acidity. Very precise, dry, really grippy at the edges but with a mineral presence rather than oak. A remarkable wine. 17.5/20 (January 2010)

Le Rocher des Violettes Montlouis La Négrette Sec 2009: Older vines than the Touche-Mitaine, 70-80 years, planted on argilo-calcaire soils, and this wine sees more wood, 18-20 months in Allier oak, with 30% new. Bottled September 2010. It has a slightly more polished feel to it on the nose, although the new wood, which is quite apparent, plays a lead role here. Polished and lightly honeyed on the nose, and on the palate this oaky influence shows through also, with a gritty feel to it, but also a lot of tension underneath. Good acids, but a fuller feel. Still very tense and bright though. I prefer the purity of the 'lesser' Touche-Mitaine myself; this needs time for the oak to integrate. It may be the greater wine in five years time though; it certainly has potential. 17+/20 (January 2010)