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Domaine des Rochelles

Located in St Jean des Mauverts, the history of Domaine des Rochelles and the wines of this region, Anjou, are intimately entwined. It was here that Anjou stalwart Hubert Lebreton, a key figure in the development of the appellations and at the time head of this family-run domaine, essentially defined what the dry wines of Anjou should be. This work has been no less significant in its effect than the legal definitions of the appellations as laid down in 1936 (for Anjou) and 1987 (for Anjou-Villages). Today Hubert has yielded control to his son Jean-Yves who now runs the domaine, although these two are in fact the third and fourth generations to have done so. The domaine was first established by Edouard Lebreton in the early 20th Century, around 1910, when it was essentially a smallholding of polyculture, the vines merely one crop among the other fruits, vegetables and cereals. Edouard passed it to his son Emile, who was instrumental in shaping the domaine into what it is today, moving towards monoculture of the vine, and marketing the wine by direct sales rather than through the usual outlets. This is a practice that continues today, and although many bottles are sold to visitors to the domaine, the Lebreton family also hold a file of some 25000 private customers further afield who also regularly buy the wine. From Emile the estate came to Hubert and Jean-Yves, and the next generation Jean-Hubert is waiting in the wings. Other family members run another leading domaine of the appellation, Domaine de Montgilet.

The vineyards, which cover 58 hectares all told, include a gamut of varieties; Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, both Cabernets and more, and naturally therefore there is a broad portfolio of wines produced here, sparkling or still, rosé, white or red, dry or sweet. Nevertheless, it is probably the sweet Coteaux de l'Aubance and the red wines, bottled as Anjou-Villages-Brissac, an appellation which covers ten communes of the Aubance vineyards, which deserve most attention. The Coteaux de l'Aubance is 100% Chenin Blanc, and although lighter than many a Coteaux du Layon, and also than the wines of Montgilet, these are still of fine quality. The Anjou-Villages-Brissac appellation permits for only the two Cabernets, and there are two cuvées produced, a domaine wine which favours Cabernet Franc, and the superior La Croix du Mission bottling, which is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. All the vines, red and white, are grown on decomposed schist which typifies the slopes around the Aubance and which no doubt contributes in some part to the obvious quality of the wines. (11/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: 49320 Saint Jean- des- Mauvrets
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 91 92 07
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 62 63
Internet: www.domaine-des-rochelles.com

Domaine des Rochelles - Tasting Notes

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Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac Les Millerits 2009: Incredibly dark-scented fruit here, black plums and damsons but still with a very fresh vein, with a strong seam of grit and soot behind it all, perhaps representative of the firm structure of the wine. The palate carries a very well defined column of fruit, bright and perfumed, but also imbued with a very dry and biting core of tannins. Impressive, supple, quite highly extracted though, albeit it not too much for the sweet fruit texture that it possesses. And the acidity seems appropriate too. It is on the edge but given a decade in the cellar this may drink well, despite the massive, mouth-clawing tannins at the end. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac Breton 2009: A funky variation on the normally sombre Rochelles label here. A darkly coloured wine, and the nose has that warm, dark and spicy aromatic profile that comes from Cabernet Franc grown on schist. Full, bright, and on the palate a sweet, deep and richly fruited wine, rather bold and also a little chewy. There is good grip underpinning it all, giving it that almost chewy character, with good structure. It might have a rich character but there is still plenty of firm, hard structure beneath. Attractive but not showing the elegance of the best Rochelles wines. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 15/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2009: There is dark, hedonistic and chewy fruit on the nose here, and a very different style too that runs through all Cabernet Sauvignons regardless of region or terroir. There are scents of violets, blackcurrants and a sooty density. Good substance here on entry, solidly composed, with a well-rounded ball of fruit and a ripe, gritty layer of tannins, with plenty of acid to keep it bobbing along. Polished, well framed, dense as the schist it grows on, but you can just tell this is going to be gorgeous given time. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Ambre Coteaux de l'Aubance 2009: From a dainty 50 cl bottle. There is a honeyed edge to this aromatic, light-golden wine, which is huge, expressive and character-packed on the palate, where it shows all smooth and softly polished, quite honeyed but also rather grippy. Floral, with a smart level of residual sugar to boot. An impressively textured wine which should cellar well short term, even if it does not possess the great definition or quartzy minerality of the best wines of the appellation. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou Rouge L'Ardoise 2008: This wine has some lean and stony fruit on the nose, with a very gentle character overall. The palate has decent concentration, with some grip, tannins with a rather hard and rustic character, but it seems a touch diffuse. Decent wine. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2007: Rather a hot style of fruit on the nose, not fresh, with elements of raspberry swirled with toffee. Softly textured on the palate, floral, with a gentle structure which builds to a greater prominence through the middle. Gritty tannins, rather brutal towards the end, with only some stony fruit to provide any cushion. Nevertheless, a decent effort in a difficult vintage. Tasted at the Brasserie du Théâtre in Angers. 15+/20 (February 2010)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2007: The fruit here is dark and stony in character, with a touch of roasted herb. It has a nice weight on entry, with a supple style, followed up by a much firmer midpalate. Rather firm and potent acidity, which dominates the midpalate. It has a hard middle and finish, but in its favour it has a clean style. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2006: A richer colour here than some other wines, and darker fruit on the nose. It still has a roasted herb character, but it isn't overtly green, although it does have some smoky, burnt fruit. Nice texture, with lots of grip and acid underneath, and a clean finish. needs a couple of years, but might just be worth it. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 14.5-15.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine des Rochelles Coteaux de l'Aubance 2006: In the glass this has a clear, bright, golden appearance. On the nose it displays a very fresh style, with aromas of lemons and quince, and a lightly honeyed richness nicely countered by a crisp herbal tea character. The palate is simply lovely, showing quite pure definition on entry, with a gentle fatness through the midpalate. Above all it has purity and freshness. This is a well constructed wine, with good depth and a touch of grit towards the endpalate which provides some interest. And it has a good substance, and really quite some length too. Very good indeed. With quality and purity like this it is perhaps a little difficult to understand why this particular appellation has such a low profile. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (August 2008)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2005: A fine and vibrant colour in the decanter and glass, dark at the core, raspberry-crimson at the rim. The nose is divine; classic red Anjou, but vibrant and rich, belying the vintage; there is a wealth of plum and damson-skin fruit, dark and peppered but also floral too, perfumed and aromatic, all poured over hot, smoking, sun-baked stones. Immediately sweet and textured on entry, displaying some beautifully perfumed fruit at first, blackcurrant, damson and plum with a very slight confit hint at the edge, although one that is thankfully subtle and nicely cut through by the structure of the wine. There are notes of pretty violets and crisply defined fruit, backed up by a fleshy texture and, coming from behind it all, ripe, dark and grainy tannins gently rolling through the finish and into the length. Lovely wine, deliciously approachable now, but which will develop great perfumed elegance in the cellar over the next 5-10 years. From a Loire 2005 assessment. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2005: A lovely, pure, rich and dusky hue. The nose carries some crunchy fruit, with notes of cherry skin and cherry stones, pepper and celery seed. A fine and bright character on the palate, firm, with quite dry tannins and a firm grip which builds through the midpalate and finish. A characterful wine, this makes for delicious drinking but also provides plenty of interest. Very good. 17/20 (April 2008)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac la Croix de Mission 2005: Another deeply coloured wine here, like the straight Anjou-Villages Brissac, although perhaps not quite the same level of maturity; this wine, which favours Cabernet Sauvignon over Cabernet Franc, shows a more glossy garnet hue. More reticent on the nose, with smoky fruit layers poking out from the hazy aromatic profile, with some schistous scents coming through too. Very pure and muscular on entry, the flesh of the wine tightening up in the midpalate into a shell of fruit around a good substance, and well balanced structure, which unfolds in the finish to reveal a more powerful tannic core with fresh acidity. A more withdrawn style here, less giving and more stony-hard in terms of texture, less flattering and fleshy too, at least at first. Later on it opens up, revealing a ripe layer of sweet fruit, especially spiced black cherry. Long on the finish though. This needs some time before it integrates to a point of pleasure, but it has all the right materials in place. From a Loire 2005 assessment. 17-17.5+/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2002: Predominantly Cabernet Franc here, I believe. This has a quite clear, vibrant, cherry red. It takes an hour or so to really open up, giving some crisp berry fruit with smoky tobacco spices as it does so, with notes of violets and a touch of garden mint. It really is quite captivating. Fresh style on the palate, rather lithe, firm, with little flesh. Peppery, with quite forthright acidity, and a dry, cherry stone fruit. Very appealing. 16.5+/20 (August 2007)

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2002: This has a darker, more purple hue than the first wine. This is more dependent on Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of dark, crunchy fruits on the nose, with a slightly crystalline but ripe character, with complex nuances of tobacco, liquorice, sweet cough candy and green peppercorns overlaid. Lovely, ripe and sweet fruit on the palate, nice extract, rounded and firm yet fresh. This is just a delight to drink. 17+/20 (August 2007)