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Pierre & Bertrand Couly

One of Chinon's youngest domaines, the story behind the vineyards of father-and-son team Pierre and Bertrand begins nearby, at what is perhaps the appellation's most famous name, Couly-Dutheil. An estate which has its roots in the marriage of Baptiste Dutheil and Marie Couly in the 1920s, for many years Couly-Dutheil has dominated the Chinon story. Yes there are perhaps greater wines to be discovered elsewhere, especially by those willing to travel upstream to Cravant, where you can find both Bernard Baudry and Philippe Alliet, but no account of Chinon would be complete without Couly-Dutheil. It is a domaine I discovered when travelling in the Loire as a student, and as such I have always had a soft spot for the wines. But it is not mere misty-eyed memories that hold my attention here; the wines can be very good indeed, especially when we go to the very top, the Clos de l'Echo. An historic vineyard situated right behind Chinon's ancient chateau and allegedly once owned by the Rabelais family, this site can yield superb Chinon both in the traditional mould and also in the more concentrated and oaky Crescendo super-cuvée.

So it came as something of a surprise to learn, during the course of 2008, of an impending split in the Couly-Dutheil estate. What seemed like an immutable and historical linchpin, a gem in the appellation, was to be divided. At the time Couly-Dutheil was in the ownership of two brothers, Pierre and Jacques, and their respective families. It is difficult to know the precise details of the disagreement, but like all such family fractures it was no doubt a difficult time for all concerned. Indeed, Pierre was at times reported to be very ill during the process, and one has to wonder if the stress of the split contributed towards his poor health. What emerged from the process were two Couly domaines; Couly-Dutheil remained with father and son Jacques and Arnaud, whilst Pierre and Bertrand upped and left, to start over again in the appellation. When I met Bertrand in early 2009 he was naturally tight-lipped about the affair, giving nothing of significance away, and quite rightly so I suspect. Family disputes such as these are often painful, the emotions are raw and previously good relationships can be left sullied and sour. The less said the better, perhaps.

Pierre and Bertrand are now based just downstream of Chinon, on the north bank, just a few minutes drive from the chateau and Clos de l'Echo. They rent 10 hectares of vines, fashioning four cuvées of Chinon in total, and they also produce a little St Nicolas de Bourgueil on a négoce basis. At the entry-level the basic Chinon originates from clay-sand soils, those which tend to give lighter wines for earlier drinking, whilst the next step up, Cuvée Le V tends to give something a little more substantial. Named for Bertrand's youngest son Vincent (who had complained that father and grandfather had their names on the label, and thus so should he) this cuvée is sourced from vines planted on a clay-limestone terroir. A significant step up in terms of quality though is La Haute Olive, sourced from vines planted on degraded limestone soils to the east of Chinon. There is also a rosé, produced by saignée from the red vats.

Tasting the wines suggests this is an estate worth watching. The rosé seems to be very popular with many retailers but nevertheless both it and the entry-level Chinon are certainly commercial wines. Le V offers some more substance and impact, although it is La Haute Olive that impresses most. Although these wines do not place the domaine in the very top tier of the Chinon appellation, there is an admirable textural quality to them, especially in the upper cuvées, which belies the skill of the men behind them I think. The wines are already receiving due praise from the French press, including Le Guide Hachette, and I look forward to tasting more of the wines from this new Couly estate in the future. (2/9/09)

Contact details:
Address: 4 Rue de St Louans, 37500 Chinon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 93 43 97
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 93 05 99
Internet: www.pb-couly.com

Pierre & Bertrand Couly - Tasting Notes

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Pierre & Bertrand Couly Chinon 2008: This has a vivacious and youthful colour, and a nose of fresh and attractive fruits. Soft and quite rounded on the palate, with rather a sandy fruit despite the good terroir. This has some more substance to it, nicely textured fruit, with a little stony edge. Overall though it is rather easy-going. 14.5/20

Pierre & Bertrand Couly Chinon Le V 2008: A good colour. Fairly inexpressive on the nose, with a big, firm palate, and still some oak influence here. Lots of nice stony texture, and quite a lot of grip beneath the fruit also. Good acidity. This is interesting wine; it certainly seems an improvement on the 2007, but there is an awkward character to it. Perhaps this just needs time to integrate? 15-16+?/20

Pierre & Bertrand Couly Chinon La Haute Olive 2008: A limestone terroir. This has the deepest colour of the five wines tasted here, and is also one of the least expressive on the nose. A very good substance, with a polished fruit richness. Still very elegant and restrained but with a better depth and power than the other cuvées in this vintage. Lots of acid and grip at the finish. This could do very well in the cellar. 16-17+/20

Pierre & Bertrand Couly Chinon 2007: From a clay-flint terroir. Soft fruit on the nose of this rather pale-looking wine. It has a pretty, rather attractive character. The palate is soft, rounded, a touch oily perhaps, with a nice chalky texture beneath. The fruit seems to sit on top of this structure, in a quite separate fashion. A nice flavour, and a little promise, but this wine translates the difficulties of the vintage. 14/20

Pierre & Bertrand Couly Chinon Le V 2007: From a clay-limestone terroir, this wine is named 'Le V' after Bertrand's son Vincent. This has a little reduction on the nose, but looking past this there is a meaty quality to the fruit. The palate is smooth and polished, not particularly dense, and it shows a firm grip and plenty of tannin rather than fruit or a welcoming texture. A decent wine, but with a lot of structure. 15+/20