Home > Producer Profiles > Loire Profiles > Lise et Bertrand Jousset

Lise et Bertrand Jousset

Neither Bertrand Jousset nor Lise Girard were born to viticultural parents. Lise perhaps has the closer tie to agriculture, having grown up on the farm her parents worked in Deux-Sèvres, a département which lies to the south of the main sweep of the Loire vineyards, its major viticultural claim to fame being the Haut-Poitou appellation. Nevertheless it was through her work in the restaurant trade, working front-of-house in France and England, that she first really began to understand wine. She was a fully-trained sommelier before she subsequently met Bertrand, a butcher's son from Amilly, near Chartres.

Having left school at an early age and not apparently having any great interest in butchery as a career Bertrand had enlisted in the French army, and spent six years in his country's service including several tours of duty in foreign war zones. At the end of it all he returned to France a more mature and settled man it seems, and looking for a new career he enrolled on a viticultural course at Amboise. It was there that he was introduced to Chenin Blanc for the very first time, in 2002. It was a meeting that was to shape his viticultural career; one day, Bertrand resolved, he would have his own vineyard full of Chenin Blanc vines.

Lise (pictured right) and Bertrand were like-minded in this respect, and so together they hatched a plan, one that would eventually lead them to the vineyards of Montlouis. It was in 2004 that this plan became reality. This was perhaps somewhat earlier than they anticipated; at the time Bertrand was still gaining experience at several other domaines in the region, and Lise was working as a sommelier in Paris. They weren't tied to the Loire, and in fact Lise was eyeing up a job in Montpellier, which would have meant a move south for Bertrand. Fate intervened, however, as a mutual friend alerted them to the existence of a small domaine in Montlouis, on the edge of the Husseau plateau, that was available for rent.

Having visited the domaine, on the rue des Bouvineries which runs from La Barre to Husseau, they quickly signed the rental agreement. They were drawn to the vineyards, 8.6 hectares of Chenin Blanc in a prime location, enough to satisfy Bertrand's desire I think, and of course with such little interest in the vineyards of Montlouis the land was much more affordable here than it was anywhere else.

Nevertheless the first few years were very difficult, financially at least. Lise worked night shifts in a local factory to keep a little money rolling in, but it rolled out just as fast thanks to their rental payments. Converting the vineyards from conventional farming to organic took time and effort, and they were 'rewarded' with lower-than-ever yields, which hit their income badly. It has only been in the past few years, with the return of higher yields, that the couple are more financially secure and Lise has been able to give up her night shifts. There new security is evinced by a recent move to buy the property outright, rather than to go on renting.

Vineyards

Today their vineyards amount to 10.3 hectares, split between the Montlouis and Touraine appellations (mostly the former) and planted not only with their desired Chenin Blanc (about 8 hectares, so about 80% of the domaine) but also Chardonnay, Gamay and Grolleau. The vineyard is divided between 26 parcels, with the principal section just across the road from the winery in Husseau eligible for AC Montlouis, just upstream of Montlouis itself, although about one-fifth lie in nearby St Martin le Beau. The vines are planted at a density of 6000 per hectare, have between 30 and 130 years of age (the average is close to 70 years), and some of the very oldest are planted ungrafted. The soils include the classic Touraine types of perruches, a mix of clay and flint, which characterises the lieux-dits Maison Marchandelle and Volagré, and aubuis, a soil rich in clay which is much less common in Montlouis but which can be found in Clos aux Renards.

The vines are tended using organic methods and have been since the outset. The vines thus see no herbicide, fungicide or pesticide, and they avoid the use of artificial fertiliser. They do allow themselves some sulphur and copper in the vineyard, both permissible within the realm of organic viticulture, and also organic manure. Weed control is ensured by working the soil which also takes off surface roots encouraging the vines to dig deeper. The manual work continues through harvest time, when the fruit is picked in tries into buckets and then small baskets, a process which facilitates some sorting of the fruit (rather than use a sorting table) and which minimises harm, before the process of pressing and fermentation begins. The white and rosé cuvées see a gentle pressing and cold settling, with no addition of enzymes, while the reds undergo carbonic maceration.

Vinification and Wines

The fermentations take place in cellars which sit on the edge of the Husseau plateau, just around the corner (literally, in both cases) from François Chidaine and Jacky Blot. The ground falls away behind the property, a few trees and a little pasture and arable land all that separates the Husseau property and vineyards from the course of the Loire. This position on the edge of the slope facilitates work on several levels within the winery, allowing for the wine to be moved from one process to the next using gravity rather than pumping. The fermentations and élevage are carried out using an assembly of wooden vessels, of varying ages ranging from brand new to seven years old, and of varying sizes, including 225-litre barriques, 400-litre casks and 600-litre demi-muids. Every parcel is vinified separately, and only indigenous yeasts are employed. The length of time for fermentation depends very much on the individual cuvée - some can soldier on for months and months.

The sec cuvées open with Premier Rendez-vous, Montlouis and therefore 100% Chenin Blanc, a blend sourced from several plots, the vines ranging from 40- to 70-years old, but unified by a common terroir, which is a mix of sand and flint over a deeper limestone. This wine is the product of a single pass through the vines picked at about 30 hl/ha; the freshly picked fruit is fermented in 400-litre barrels aged between four and seven years, and the two plots are kept separate throughout the process until the final blending, one month before bottling. It is a wine intended for drinking in its youth, a first meeting with any given vintage for Lise and Bertrand, hence the name of the cuvée.

A superior single-site Montlouis cuvée is Singulier, intended for drinking later than the Premier Rendez-vous. This comes from 60 to 80-year old vines planted on clay and limestone soils, harvested in a single tri, giving a yield of about 25 hl/ha. Again fermented in barrels, here both 400- and 600-litres, the wood here is newer, typically one to three years of age. The finished wine is dry, with less than 5 g/l of residual sugar being the norm.

There is also a dry cuvée made purely from Chardonnay, Les Audouines, a vin de pays intended for no-fuss early drinking. Unlike the Montlouis wines which are managed in wood throughout, this cuvée is fermented en cuve.

I think for Lise and Bertrand their sec cuvées - wines made in a very natural manner, and which can be easily enjoyed at table - are where their hearts lie. Nevertheless there are also demi-sec and moelleux cuvées made here. The lone example of the former style is Trait d'Union, a Montlouis and thus pure Chenin Blanc, from sandy-flinty soils. This is handled in very much the same manner as the Singulier cuvée, fermented in newer wood, the eventual residual sugar in the order of 25 g/l.

There are two moelleux cuvées, starting with Sur le fil, a wine sourced from vines planted franc de pied in 1873. These elderly vines yield about 15 hl/ha and the fruit is fermented en barrique, barrels typically one or two years old, the finished product boasting in the order of 60 g/l sugar. En aparté, the second moelleux cuvée, goes one step further, and manages in the 2009 vintage to achieve 140 g/l residual sugar.

You're a nobody in Montlouis or Vouvray if you aren't knocking out some sparkling wine these days, and Lise and Bertrand seal their status within the Montlouis appellation with no less than three sparkling cuvées. These include an méthode traditionelle wine, L'appétillant, and a pétillant natural (or pét' nat' if you're trendy) cuvée made using the ancestrale method called Bubulle. There is also a pétillant naturel rosé called Rose à Lies which is made using 60% Gamay and 40% Grolleau. A similar Gamay-Grolleau blend is bottled as the vin tranquille P'tit Sans Gêne, a Touraine rosé with a bit of residual sugar. Finally the Gamay (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) blend Y a rien qui presse is intended for unfussy drinking; I thought it a pretty good charcuterie wine, although I see from the Jousset website that Bertrand prefers pot au feu.

Lise et Bertrand Jousset: Tasting and Drinking

If there is a tenet central to Lise and Bertrand's philosophy I think it would probably be the creation of dry wines, intended for drinking at table, natural and unwoody wines that express their origins and which sit well with food. As such they focus very much on what works for them, and it is a happy coincide perhaps that I - and I expect this is true of many others - also find their wines so enticing.

As a consequence they concentrate most of all on their dry cuvées, the sweeter moelleux wines playing only a minor part in the Jousset portfolio. And Lise is quite particular about what 'dry' might mean; tasting the 2009 Premier Rendez-vous together, with its 8 g/l residual sugar, Lise clearly indicated the wine was a touch too sweet for her tastes, and that she prefers her sec cuvées to carry about 3 g/l. This is 'properly' dry, not the rather sugar-rich 'sec' cuvées some estates are turning out, where the sugar is usually masked - to some extent, at least, by balancing acidity. A smile marked her face when we moved onto the 2009 Singulier, a wine which probably has about 4 g/l (not yet having been bottled, the final analysis had not been undertaken when I tasted the wine). It is, she said, "good for the mind".

The Jousset philosophy is not merely a matter of balance, however, as the wines should also express their origins; this is achieved by handling the young wines separately in the cellar, according to the lieu-dit of origin, and sensitive blending only when the élevage is done and dusted. But it also involves understanding your terroirs, of course, and Lise and Bertrand have not been averse to a little agricultural detective work in order to do so. Despite their early financial difficulties they have recently been able to hire a digger to excavate test pits to learn more about their terroir, particularly in Clos aux Renards - the origin of their prime single-site sec cuvée, Premier Rendez-vous, where they dug down through a rich green clay, although they also found some limestone towards the centre.

The Joussets also favour wine as expression of terroir and fruit, not wood. Although the fermentations and élevage involve a variety of wooden vessels, ranging from 225 to 600 litres, the use of new wood is kept to a minimum, and in general the wines are not marked by their contact with oak. I found it telling that, with the 2009 Trait d'union, a demi-sec cuvée, it was Lise who drew my attention to the oak in the wine, before I had even had a chance to lift the glass to my nose. She is clearly a little uncomfortable with overt oak in her wine, this cuvée having seen 30% new wood, which she confessed "maybe a bit much for us".

Tasting with Lise and Bertrand Jousset uncovers a portfolio of enticing, fresh and minerally wines. I was entranced by their great purity, vivacity and the occasional hint of seduction. Lise and Bertrand may only have a few vintages under their belts, but the languid and relaxed character to be found within their wines, coupled with their vibrant balance, belies their inexperience. This not so much a domaine to watch, as the wines are already too good for such a mealy-mouthed accolade; the wines here are delicious, and I urge you to track them down as best you can. (27/9/11)

Contact details:
Address: 36 rue des Bouvineries, 37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 50 70 33
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 45 09 87
Internet: www.domaine-jousset.fr
GPS: 47.392084, 0.875449

Lise et Bertrand Jousset - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Lise et Bertrand Jousset P'tit sans Gene (Vin de Table) 2010: The assemblage here is 60% Gamay and 40% Grolleau, harvested and fermented separately. The Grolleau accounts for just 0.2 hectares of the domaine, the Gamay 1 hectare. A wine from dedicated fruit, rather than a saignée. Fermented in 400-litre barriques. This has less than 5 g/l at the moment of tasting. Quite a firm pink colour but not too deep. Still in barrel, and still very fermenty on the nose. Poured very cold which doesn't really help the analysis. Certainly fresh though, seemingly dry on the palate, rather savoury. There is some sweetly perfumed primary fruit too though, red fruits of course, all raspberry and cherry. A bright, vibrant acid backbone. Clean, and overall this is an attractive wine. 15-16/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Montlouis Premier Rendez-vous 2010: An assemblage from several lieux-dits, all picked and vinified separately. The nose is restrained, with pale and stony white fruit. One the palate it has a more seductive depth than I expected, showing a very fresh character but still with good and expressive fruit, all yellow-gold, with a lovely core of acid. It is bright and fresh, with a sherbetty and youthful minerality. This is beautifully relaxed at the start, and yet tightens up to show a wonderful tension later. Although this has 15-20 g/l residual at present, the fermentation is still ongoing, and it will eventually be dry. Judgements at this stage must be taken with a pinch of salt. It shows great promise, though. 17-18/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Les Audouines (VdP de Val de Loire) 2010: Les Audouines is the name of the lieu-dit, 1 hectare planted purely with Chardonnay despite being within the Montlouis appellation. The terroir is argilo-calcaire with silex on top. The only cuvée not fermented in wood, this is a sample from cuve. It still has 40 g/l residual sugar at this moment in time, as this has been a particularly slow fermentation. A sweet and grapey style of fruit - perhaps unsurprisingly so. Very primary. There is a lovely bright structure behind it all though, showing tension and acidity, although it has a very full texture no doubt influenced by this sugar still to be fermented out. Fresh and clean, with great acids and sweet fruit. This could be fine, but again judgements at this stage must be taken with a pinch of salt. 15-16/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Montlouis Bubulle Pét' Nat' 2009: A fresh, lively and minerally nose here. A vibrant character, with sweet golden fruit behind it, and on the palate a very low level of pétillance here, because it is "a rich wine and the yeast get tired" says Lise Jousset. Nevertheless, there is a very appealing laser-like core of acidity running through the middle of the wine which gives an incredible direction to it. Slightly sherbetty in character, with a very chalky, floral-edged flavour profile which fits the structure of the wine. Attractive, especially that minerally bite at the edges. Don't look for many bubbles here though. 16/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Premier Rendez-vous 2009: Fermented in 400-litre barrels, 10% new. A blend of several lieux-dits, this was bottled in August 2010. Residual sugar 8 g/l. Fresh and lively, this vintage seems to have kept the vigour that the 2010 (barrel sample just tasted) promised, a good sign I think. Light fruit here, but such vigour! There is also a strong and sherbetty suggestion. On the palate there is more richness though, but the acidity is fine, subtle, needle-like, but with that sherbetty edge to it. I really like this; it is supple, with light, softly crushed minerals and gentle acids. There is a lovely tension to it. For me the balance and generosity seem to work together very well indeed. 17/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Montlouis Singulier 2009: Not yet bottled; this remained in barrel until December 2010 (15-20% new, half 400-litre and half 600-litre, although the aim is to move to entirely 600-litre barrels), and is currently undergoing final assemblage in tank. To be bottled March 2011. Whereas the Premier Rendez-vous is a blend, this is from a single site, Clos aux Renards. Here there is clay, with a little limestone at the centre. A more supple and refined nose here, polished and elegant, with a lovely purity on the palate. There is broad and bright fruit, a fine boned structure, a little more firm than the Premier Rendez-vous. Lovely midpalate, bursting with acid and mineral life. Beautiful, seductively fleshy but with such lift beneath it. Minerally too. Lise is hoping for an eventual residual sugar of about 4 g/l. 17.5-18.5/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Montlouis Trait d'union 2009: An assemblage of wines giving a demi-sec cuvée with about 30g/l. I am forewarned that this cuvée "can taste a little woody", as the fermentation vessels included nearly 30% new wood, which is "maybe a bit much for us" says Lise. There is a little more honey here on the nose, coming from the wood of course. So fresh on the palate though, showing the substance of the residual sugar, but with seams of minerals and tension underneath. Around the wood it is floral, expressive, defined and very bright. Overall, a lovely style, so crisp and fresh at the core, with ripe and yet crunchy fruit wrapped around. There is a little grip in the finish from the oak. With time the minerals and acidity will come to dominate the wood here; I suggest leaving three years, perhaps. 17.5/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Montlouis En aparté 2009: This moelleux cuvée is destined for release at the end of 2011 or early 2012. Residual sugar 140 g/l. In this vintage the sweetness comes from passerillage rather than botrytis, and the source is Clos aux Renards, the same lieu-dit that gives rise to the Singulier cuvée. Aromatically it is pure, cleanly defined, with honeyed fruit. It certainly suggests sweetness, and a little beeswax too. An appealing style, lightly honeyed and bright, but underneath there is the trademark acidity and mineral streak that seems to run through all the Jousset wines. Expressive, really broadening out on the palate, showing very fine minerals, a feature which comes to dominate despite that firm sweetness, which comes in from behind in the finish. Very attractive, and very long. Lovely 17.5/20 (January 2010)

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Y a rien qui presse (Vin de Table) 2008: I think this may be labelled as non-vintage, but it is certainly from 2008. A blend of 70% Gamay and 30% Cabernet Franc. Made with carbonic maceration of both varieties together; this means maximum maturity for the Gamay, as the Cabernet Franc ripens later. Rather a gamey nose, but there is freshness and lift, with plenty of acid, on the palate. It is quite vibrant in its structure. Soft and supple gamey fruit behind, but overall the impression is lean and bright with rather a soft, perfumed, slightly dried, red-fruit character, rather reminiscent of freeze-dried fruit. Cool, with a little tannin, more so in the finish. A charcuterie wine. 14.5/20 (January 2010)