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Henry Pellé

This eponymously named domaine was established by none other than Henry Pellé of course, and dates back to at least 1959, the time of the creation of the Menetou-Salon appellation, although the family have been making wine in the region since long before that. To date the domaine remains in the hands of Henry's descendents, having been passed down at least two generations. The current incumbent is Anne Pellé, the widow of Eric Pellé - Henry's son - who died in 1995, and she runs the estate with the assistance of her own son Paul-Henry. Anne takes on much of the sales and marketing side of the business, whilst Paul-Henry is in charge of winemaking, with consultation from oenologist Julien Zernott. Together they are responsible for approximately one-quarter of the output of the Menetou-Salon appellation.

Vineyards

The domaine is situated on the outskirts of Morogues, a small village about ten miles to the west of the appellation of Sancerre. The soils underneath are Kimmeridgian limestone rich in minute marine fossils, just like those that characterise not only some vineyards in Sancerre, but also those a little way further to the east in Chablis. At some sites the limestone is one component of a marly mix, with clay. The vines are cared for in an organic fashion, the weeds controlled by working the soil, and the yields reduced by green harvesting. There are about 40 hectares all told, of which two-thirds is planted to Sauvignon Blanc, the remaining one-third Pinot Noir.

Once the fruit is in the Pellé family and Zernott oversee a pneumatic pressing of fruit and stalks together; a technique which some - including the Pellé family - believe allows for a more gentle pressing. Indeed, this is not the first time I have encountered the technique, as I have also heard it expounded at Chateau Long-Depaquit, the Albert Bichot winery in Chablis. The rationale is that the stalks create a network of drainage channels through the must when it is pressed, allowing for easier release of the juice from the mass of solid matter, and thus perhaps less use of force. This is followed by a thermo-regulated fermentation in stainless steel, using only indigenous yeasts, all carried out in a recently refurbished cellar. What results is a range of wines, principally white, which can challenge their Sancerrois neighbours in terms of quality and which, in the right circles, have something of a cult following. Indeed, one of the most critical and terse emails I ever received was from a UK importer who, clearly being a great follower of the wines, was derisory about my failure (as was the case at that time) to have profiled the estate or to have made a comprehensive tasting of the wines. Hopefully with the addition of this profile I will be forgiven.

The Wines

The range opens with some generic labels, with fruit sourced from a number of different sites in the Menetou-Salon appellation; these wines, which are named Les Bornés for the clay soil that typifies some of these vineyards, are to be found in both red and white. Next up are those cuvées with a more specific origin, from within the Morogues communes, and are thus labelled as Menetou-Salon-Morogues. These wines are certainly a step up, and the estate-grown fruit originates from a different terroir, as there is more limestone here. At this level the wines come in white, red and also rosé.

Then come the single-vineyard cuvées, starting with the Clos des Blanchais. This wine (simply named Les Blanchais on labels from 2007 onwards) is sourced from old vines, many around 50 years of age, located on a steep and isolated slope near the domaine. It has a south-easterly aspect, perfect for catching every ray of sunshine, and is sheltered by trees to the north and west. After the completion of fermentation, 15% of this cuvée goes into oak, to give the wine a little more depth. The second white Morogues cuvée comes from the Clos de Ratier (the cuvée has been renamed Vignes de Ratier from the 2007 vintage onwards), a steep south-westerly slope which also yields excellent quality Sauvignon Blanc fruit. Finally there is a third lieu-dit in the Menetou-Salon appellation, Les Cris, a small vineyard which lies facing the Clos de Ratier. The vines are all Pinot Noir, typically 45-years old, established by sélection massale. Here, unlike the white wines, about 60% of the wine is vinified in oak.

Finally, the Pellé family have also ventured further afield, and thus there is also Sancerre in the portfolio, white and red, named La Croix au Garde, as well as some generic cuvées which, like the generic Menetou-Salon, are a mix of estate-grown and purchased fruit. The fruit for these wines originates from two principal sources, some estate vineyards in Montigny and also since 1995 from a grower in Verdigny. Again, as with Les Cris, the vinification for the red Sancerre involves 60% oak. And Pouilly-Fumé? Yes, this is found here too, in the shape of La Boucanés, a cuvée I have not yet tasted.

The Pellé wines I have tasted  indicate a domaine style that is vibrant, rich in flavour and full of vivacity, particularly with reference to the white wines. These are great wines, not just stop-gaps to replace increasingly expensive Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but delicious wines in their own right. Having first encountered the wines many years ago it has been wonderful to recently become better acquainted with them. I will certainly be looking out for these wines, sporting stylish new labels since the 2007 vintage, in the future. As for the reds, I once described these as having the rusticity of small-town Pinot Noir about them. Today they remain petits vins in comparison to the whites, and also to some of the fine efforts coming out of Sancerre from the likes of Alphonse Mellot, but they are certainly much better wines than they once were, and are really quite drinkable, as evinced by recent tastes of both Les Cris and La Croix au Garde. (5/8/04, updated 29/12/09)

Contact details:
Address: 18220 Morogues
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 48 64 42 48
Fax: +33 (0) 2 48 64 36 88
Internet: www.henry-pelle.com

Henry Pellé - Tasting Notes

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Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Les Blanchais 2008: And now the subsequent vintage; an elegant and shimmering hue here, and a lovely nose, very fresh and rich in citrus tones, with an appealing aromatic depth. There are very typical varietal notes, of capsicum and yellow plum, but also an undeniably creamy minerality. Bright and pure on the palate, a little creamy at first, then showing more substance, with a talcy, barley-water texture. Delightfully perfumed fruit here, with tropical mango, passionfruit and honeyed plum to the fore. Defined, elegant but vigorous and lively, this is an excellent effort. 17.5+/20 (January 2010)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Les Bornés 2007: There is a lovely freshness here, green fruit spiced with elements of kiwi and greengage. Ripe and showing a little richness, with an attractive palate. Fairly well rounded, fresh and clean, with lots of crisp character. This is all backed up by just a little flesh and substance, with full and sappy fruit. An appealing wine. 16/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues 2007: There is a hint of more creamy richness here, and this is a clear step up from Les Bornés. The palate has lovely style, more mineral and harmonious, quite broad though, structured and certainly stylish. An impressive wine indeed. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Vignes de Ratier 2007: There is a slightly golden edge to the fruit here, which has a very ripe and broad style. Still very fresh though. The palate is deliciously lifted, although there is a little fat in the middle. A really attractive depth, fresh, quite minerally here too. Although this wine starts out a little lean it really comes together well and overall it is very attractive. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Les Blanchais 2007: A return to this wine first tasted at the 2009 Salon. From a limestone terroir. Quite a rich colour on inspection, and a nose which is quite creamy, quite citric, rich and tinged with exotic golden fruits alongside the thyme and citrus peel. A fresh, fullsome palate, with plenty of punchy acidity and typical Sauvignon fruit laid on top. Punchy, savoury, quite silky in terms of texture in the midpalate though, and then through the finish more substantial, with barley-like extract in the finish, and nuances of yellow plum and greengage fruit. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (January 2010)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Les Blanchais 2007: More minerality here, alongside fresh but yellow-golden fruit. This is aromatic, bright and quite impressive in terms of style. Broad and reserved, but with a clearly polished substance, underpinned by a deep, stony character beneath, this is fine stuff. There are some lovely yellow fruit flavours too. 17/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Rosé 2007: This has a beautiful colour, the palest peachy-pink. Not very expressive on the nose, although it certainly has a clean stony edge. The palate has substance, a round polish, and gentle, stony-fruit style. The texture is lovely, backed up as it is by poise, freshness and grip. Given a little time this should be very good. 16-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Rouge Les Bornés 2007: This has a rather subtle, matt hue. The nose shows some nice fruit though, especially strawberry and beetroot, with deep character, and a touch of oak too? The palate kicks off in a very soft, open and appealing style, with a moderate concentration of fruit and a nice grip underneath. The acidity is fresh, but the fruit fades into a muted style. Overall though, nice.15.5/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Rouge 2007: A much brighter hue, with a greater density of fruit on the nose. This is a wine of greater substance which comes through on the palate, where there is a nicely gritty texture and good grip. Bright, lively, vigorous, finely delineated, this is really good. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Rouge Les Cris 2007: Only just bottled when tasted. A lovely nose, with some oak apparent, with sweet, honeyed, ripe fruit. The palate seems a little disjointed - an effect of recent bottling I think - showing a lot of overt structure, tannin and the like, without much in the way of fruit or substance. This wine is difficult to judge today, although I suspect the eventual outcome here will be good. 15.5-16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Sancerre Rouge La Croix au Garde 2007: Again this wine has an appealing and vivacious appearance, although not really a very expressive nose today. There is fresh fruit here, but it is very withdrawn. The palate is softly textured, rounded, supple, with more grit and substance in the midpalate. Full in terms of character, with attractive style. Good. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Clos de Ratier 2006: Good colour. Creamed, lactic fruit on the nose, rich and yet bright. Yellow plum, greengage and stony minerals here. Full on the palate, with a creamy richness of fruit although not that creamy in body naturally, rich in flavour, firm and balanced, with somewhat grippy acid and bite through the midpalate. Certainly ripe, fresh, substantial and interesting. Good firm fruit and grit on the finish and some length. This is nice. 16+/20 (February 2009)

Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues 2002: Morogues is a commune which can append its name to the Menetou-Salon label. A pale wine, with a lemon-green tinge. Very fresh on the nose, with mineral, floral and green grass aromas. Fairly firm acidity to be found on the palate, balanced and quite clean and crisp. Lemony, fairly flavoursome, fresh. There is a hint of cream if held on the palate. A solid, reliable rather than exciting wine. 14.5/20 (June 2004)