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Château Gaudrelle

Château Gaudrelle is a domaine that has crept up on me over the years. While never a focus of my tasting in the early years of my Loire explorations, it was somehow never entirely absent either. A myriad of different encounters, often little more than glancing blows, meant that the domaine always kept a low level presence somewhere in the depths of my wine consciousness. A bottle in a restaurant here, which turned out to be rather good, another one found on an oddments sale list there, also giving admirable drinking pleasure. A few years later a chance drive-by of the gates to the estate on the way to Champalou gave me a glimpse of the château itself, prodding my vinous conscience, guilty through my continued failure to visit. And a recommendation made over dinner in Angers earlier this year once again served to remind me that Gaudrelle continued to evade my examination. This is a wrong that I have hopefully righted, having now tasted through a reasonable cross-section of the wines, and now having added this account of Gaudrelle to the ever-expanding lexicon of Loire profiles on this site.

Château Gaudrelle: A History

The origins of the original Château Gaudrelle and the associated estate, which lie on the route de Monnaie running north out of Vouvray, can be traced back to at least the 17th century, when a wealthy silk manufacturer named Gaudrelle began the construction of a residence befitting his high status. In the centuries that followed it was a turbulent time for the Gaudrelle estate as it experienced several cycles of decay and rescue. By 1757 the building was already falling into a state of disrepair when it was acquired by Jean Moisand who set about its restoration. He bequeathed the estate to his daughter Marguerite who in 1764 oversaw the addition of a small chapel and a cellar.

Despite this early rescue the cycle repeated itself, and less than a century later Château Gaudrelle and the associated buildings were largely destroyed, the exact reason for this period of demolition unclear. The future of the domaine was not secured until 1931, when the property and vineyards came into the ownership of the Monmousseau family who restored the estate, including major works in 1974 and 2004. Their salvage of the estate produced a château in the chartreuse style, low-slung and wide, with a single story save for the attic which is lit by stone-framed windows set into the roof.

Since 1984 it has been Alexandre Monmousseau who has been in charge of winemaking, having returned to the family domaine after completing his studies in Beaune, although he no longer remains in charge of the château itself. In 2009 the Monmousseau family agreed that they should sell the château and as a consequence Alexandre had to relocate; following a hunt for suitable premises he has now ensconced himself in cellars on the quai de la Loire in Rochecorbon, just a little way downstream of Vouvray. Thankfully he has maintained control of the Gaudrelle vineyards, as well as the right to use the name Château Gaudrelle, but the residence itself is no longer his.

The Vineyards and Wines

The soils at Gaudrelle are a mix of clay, limestone and flint, the limestone bedrock beneath of Turonien origin, making it about 90 million years old. On the surface there are areas of clay and flint perruches as well as aubuis, a blend of clay and limestone. Naturally the vines are 100% Chenin Blanc, with an average age of 35 years. There is an ongoing program of renewal, with about 0.5 hectares replanted each year. Between the vines grass is allowed to grow, to encourage surface competition, although in some areas weeds are still controlled by herbicides. During the growing season there are two episodes of leaf-stripping, once after flowering and again as the fruit is ripening, to improve both exposure and ventilation. The eventual harvest, which brings in a yield of approximately 45 hl/ha, is largely achieved by machine, as is the subsequent sorting; the exception to this rule is for the tries required to pick the sweetest, botrytised grapes. Naturally, these can only be selected by hand.

The usual Vouvray range can be found here, both sparkling and still, dry and sweet. The Brut Millésime is the sole entry in the sparkling category here, a wine made by the méthode traditionelle rather than the seemingly increasingly prevalent méthode ancestrale, the wines resting for 24 to 30 months sur lattes before disgorgement, following which they see a further three months in the Gaudrelle cellars before release. As for the still wines, the sec cuvées are two in number, opening with Le Sec de Château Gaudrelle, a wine blended from across a number of sites. Its companion is Le Turonien, a name which reflects the terroir; this wine comes from a more recently acquired vineyard characterised by the aforementioned turonien limestone, rich in marine fossils which can also be seen on the label.

The mainstay of the domaine is the Sec-Tendre cuvée, which accounts for approximately 60% of Gaudrelle's output. Assembled from a number of different lieux-dits, with the vines ranging from 40 to nearly 100 years old. The fruit is gently pressed before a temperature-controlled fermentation in old 600-litre foudres. Moving up the sweetness scale there are two more botrytis-influenced cuvées, the Réserve Spéciale and Réserve Personelle, the first a deuxième trie wine while the latter is a premier trie liquoreux cuvée made only in the most favourable years.

Gaudrelle Opinion

It is easy in any given appellation to focus on only the grandest names, whether it be the Léovilles of St Julien, Petrus and Le Pin in Pomerol, Alliet and Baudry in Chinon or, in the case of Vouvray, Huet and Foreau. But we must also look to those estates that, whilst not pushing back the boundaries of quality within the appellation, still manage to turn out with great consistency wines of remarkable quality, reliable wines which are also good value. Château Gaudrelle is one such estate. The hit rate of good bottles here is high, and what is more the style is unforced, and it screams Vouvray very loudly. Those who wish to find typicity in their wines, a melding of Chenin Blanc and limestone unfettered by heavy winemaking, might do well to come to Gaudrelle. (21/9/10)

Contact details:
Address: 12 Quai de la Loire, Clos de l'Olivier, 37210 Rochecorbon
Tel: +33 (0)2 47 25 93 50
Fax: +33 (0)2 47 52 67 98
Internet: www.chateaugaudrelle.com

Château Gaudrelle - Tasting Notes

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Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Cuvée Ammonite 2011: A soft and slightly soapy character on the nose here. The palate is light and fresh, with white-green fruit character and a nice, limpid style. There is minerality and structure behind it, a very chalky vein to the former and plenty of good grip too. The fruit seems very low key though, this being one of those cuvées that does tend to major more on its floral and mineral elements, transposed onto a spring-water freshness. From a Loire 2011 tasting. 14-15/20 (January 2012)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Ammonite 2010: An attractive nose, bright, rather minerally, but also with a soapstone, talcy perfume to it. This latter element seems to be a hallmark of the Gaudrelle style. This persists on the palate, which has a very soft, supple and caressing character, gently polished but at its core maintaining the soft, perfumed, soapy-papery style of young Chenin Blanc. There is a little minerality underneath it too. An attractive wine, in its own way. From a Loire 2010 tasting. 15-16/20 (January 2011)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray 2010: This wine also has the Gaudrelle style, all chalky-talcy elements laid over some straight, soft white fruit. A touch of sugar sweetness suggested on the nose, with a honeyed edge. Soft and fleshy on the palate, then more acid coming in, gentle but quite precise. Supple, slowly warming up in the mouth, but showing a lot more acid cut as it does so. An appealing freshness and a good wine to consider cellaring I think. Given time, this could be very good. From a Loire 2010 tasting. 15.5-16.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux Réserve Spéciale 2010: This cuvée originates with the second tri, and is usually only lightly marked by botrytis character. From a half bottle. This displays a lovely sweetness combined with classic Vouvray minerality on the nose. There is a broad, restrained character to it on the palate, a moderate weight, and quite a firm grip too. The acidity is perhaps slightly on the soft side, but the character and style is certainly worthwhile. A good wine. From a Loire 2010 tasting. 15.5/20 (January 2012)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux Réserve Spéciale 2010: From a half bottle. This is fresh, lifted and light on the nose, with pure and gently creamed white citrus fruits, along with a green apple skin and chalky-talcy freshness. A good substance on the palate, fresh and full, not the deepest or most honeyed of styles but very nicely lifted by its vibrant cut of acids and minerals. A good, sappy, biting structure to the finish. An attractive wine although it needs cellar time to show its best. From a Loire 2010 tasting. 15.5-16.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux Réserve Personelle 2009: From a half bottle. The nose is very expressive and characterful, with honeyed elements redolent of sweet peach and apricot conserve, both suggestive of a botrytis component, combined with a delightfully fresh and crunchy frame. Unsurprisingly this continues on the palate, all beeswax and honey, sweet sugar-dipped peach and tropical fruits, with a wonderfully dry, crunchy, caramel tinge. This will be delicious, and it will be ready very soon. My only complaint is that the acidity struggles to make its presence felt; it is there, but it is very subtle. For that reason I can't mark it any higher. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 16/20 (January 2011)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Brut Millésime 2008: A méthode traditionelle cuvée, dosage 4 g/l sugar. A warmer vintage than 2007. Smoky and bright on the nose, fresher than the 2007, also with a ripe style of fruit here. Almost a pétillant style on the palate, fresh with good clarity, unobscured by a gentle prickle of bubbles. Lots of lovely freshness and zip to keep it going, but with ripe citrus fruit and peach beneath. Very good indeed. 17/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec Turonien 2008: From a clay-limestone terroir. A soft and chalky nose here, a nice and fresh style, with a little citrus fruit. Good freshness, straightforward fruit character in the palate, well-balanced, certainly a well put-together wine. A pure and slightly green-fruit style, although there is a little fatness there too. Some minerality. A good effort. 15.5+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec-Tendre 2008: This particular wine originates from a clay-limestone terroir, and has 16 g/l residual sugar. A lovely nose, very expressive, with gentle fruit character. Citrus and a touch of nectarine here, also nuances of pear and apple. Very restrained and compact style though, showing lovely flesh with a moderate acid core. Some appealing minerality. Supple, with a long finish. A good wine. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Réserve Spéciale 2008: This cuvée is moving into moelleux territory now, with 45 g/l residual sugar. The product of the second trie through the vines. From a half bottle. A fine, minerally, citrus, peach and flower-infused wine. Really very pretty. The palate is lovely and supple, delicate and finely balanced, with a fine polish and a floral-stony character. This has a divine harmony; overall, this is delicious. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Réserve Personelle 2008: Made from the richest fruit in the best vintages, this première trie is a vin liquoreux with, in this case, 100 g/l residual sugar. From a half bottle. A lovely nose, fresh and floral, handsomely poised, gently mineral but most of all with a great purity of fruit. Pears, agrumes, with a little element of dried fruit coming in at the sides. Sweet and very defined, creamy but balanced and structured with a gentle honey tinge. This has a fine substance. Very impressive. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Brut Millésime 2007: A méthode traditionelle cuvée, dosage 6 g/l sugar. A gently stony nose here, following through into a very fresh and refined palate. Very linear, slightly creamy, with a nice creamy style. Good acids. Plenty of appeal here but this has a very subtle style overall. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Brut Millésime 2007: This has a remarkable nose, full of rocks, dust and newsprint. The palate has great vivacity, with brilliant, bright, clean and chalky-minerally character. A nice mousse too. There is a lot to provide interest here. It would make a great summer aperitif. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec Turonien 2007: From a clay-limestone terroir, this wine has a more open and flashy nose than the 2008, although the tone is supple and loaded with citrus fruit. Elegant, well composed, more citrus on the palate, and a touch of white peach. It just glides across the mouth. An impressive and delightful style. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Réserve Spéciale 2006: From a half bottle. This wine has a surprisingly pale hue, but this precedes a light and perfumed nose showing a lot of chalky character that is bordering on soapy. On the palate there is a nice acidity, which sits with a gentle weight and an unassuming, rounded presence. In totality it is light in style and consequence, but shows a rally of flavour and interest on the finish. It may have more to give with time in the cellar, but there are other wines which I would turn to before this one. Merely quite good. 14.5/20 (February 2008)

Le Sec de Château Gaudrelle Vouvray 2005: The soils for this cuvée are clay and flint. Although this is sec it is harvested late giving a dried-fruit character and plenty of concentration. There is one year in barrique too, and this also comes though on the nose. A touch woody, but with good fruit to match. White peach character, a tinge of white raisin too. Fine flesh on the palate though, still tinged by oak here but not excessively so and I suspect what is there will fade. Good midpalate grip. Nice potential for the cellar here. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec 2003: Muted nose. Some wet wool. Nice weight. Subtle honey and rock notes. Rounded, honeyed texture on the midpalate. Honeycomb finish, although it's all played down somewhat today; perhaps with time it will open up. Decent acidity - just a little on the low side. From a Lay & Wheeler tasting. 15.5+/20 (May 2005)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Brut Millésime 2002: Aromatic, good Chenin character; a slightly honeyed nose. Warm, rounded, cotton wool mouthfeel. Fresh, with green apples and honey. Good character, slightly biting mousse, firm and with a nice finish. I like this. From a Lay & Wheeler tasting. 16/20 (May 2005)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Réserve Personelle 1996: From a half bottle. A mid golden hue, and a delightful nose. Aromas of honeycomb and minerals, beneath an oatmeal and biscuit layer. Some oak influence also, as well as a heady, botrytis derived edge. The botrytis comes through on the palate, which has a great and typical texture, creamy but not luscious, with well balanced acidity. There are some buttery notes, and plenty of mineral interest. Great mouthfeel. 16.5/20 (February 2002)