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François Crochet

Just a few kilometres to the west of the town of Sancerre, and just a little to the south, lies the tiny commune of Bué, and it is here that you will find François Crochet and most of his vines. The son of a vigneron, the grandson of a smallholder, François and his wife Carine today work 10.5 hectares of vines, encompassing all three of the principle Sancerre terroirs. And the wines which they fashion from these vines can be excellent.

This is very much a family-owned domaine, one which in the time of Crochet's grandparents was a typical rural smallholding characterised by polyculture, where the vine was tended alongside other crops, vegetables and livestock. It was the next generation, Robert Crochet and his wife Marie-Solange, who shifted the focus of the domaine to concentrate solely on wine. So when in 1998 François came to inherit the property it comprised an admirable vineyard, home to the two typical varieties of the region, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Having studied in Beaune and worked several stages in Bordeaux (at Angélus), in Burgundy (with Bruno Clair) and in New Zealand he was ready to take on this challenge. He kicked off with his first vintage just two years later, in 2000.

Carine Crochet (pictured left, under the glare of the overhead lights at the Salon des Vins de Loire) told me that their vines are scattered over more than thirty parcels firstly around Bué, but also near Crezancy to the west and at Sancerre and Thauvenay to the east. There are 7.35 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc most of which (about 70%) is planted on the chalky-limestone soils of the region known as caillottes, whilst the remaining 30% is planted half on combined clay-chalk - otherwise known as terres blanches - and half on silex or flint. As for Pinot Noir, there are 3.15 hectares which is divided equally between the first two terroirs, with none planted on flint. The vines, which average more than 25 years of age, are inter-planted with cover-crops between alternate rows, whilst between every other row they plough and hoe, to remove superficial roots and to control weeds. The yields are controlled by bud reduction in the spring and in some cases a later green harvest, the eventual harvest is entirely manual, and overall this is a very small, 'hands-on' operation, with François personally overseeing and also undertaking much of the work in the vineyard (no mean feat with such a parcellated domaine). Once picked the fruit is transported to the new cellars behind the Crochet's house - new for the 2009 vintage - using vibrating bins to protect the fruit. Once there the grapes pass over a sorting table and then see a pneumatic pressing, before going into the fermentation vats, which are a mix of steel and truncated oak.

The Crochet Wines

The portfolio opens with a trio of  'domaine' or 'classique' cuvées, in all three colours. Starting with the white, the Sauvignon for this blend comes from all three terroirs, fermented and aged on its lees en cuve for up to six months, with no oak contact. The rosé, which is sourced from a single plot of south and south-east facing 20-year-old vines on clay-chalk soils, picked with a yield typically between 55 and 60 hl/ha; it is a wine which originates from dedicated fruit, rather than a saignée of a red wine. Speaking of which, there is a domaine red made from 25-year-old vines, picked at 45-50 hl/ha. The fruit is sorted on a vibrating table before 100% destemming, followed by a cold maceration and fermentation partly in steel and partly in oak, before maturation in futs de chêne for up to 18 months. The white cuvées are fined and filtered at this level, but not the red.

Moving up a level there are three terroir-driven cuvées of white, and a superior selection for a red cuvée. The clay and chalk terroir is represented by Les Amoureuses, from 30-year-old vines in three parcels picked typically at 40-50 hl/ha. The cuvée is named for the soils in the vineyards. Being heavy clay they tend to stick to the soles, weighing down the feet, as if soil and sole were in love; hence, Les Amoureuses. The fermentation is in steel, the wine allowed to rest on its lees for just short of a year before a light fining, no filtration, and bottling. Le Chêne Marchand, meanwhile, is a geographically defined location, one of the better-regarded hillside sites around Bué, perhaps named for a wood merchant once located there. The terroir here is typical caillottes, small chalky stones, and the vines are a little more mature at 40 years of age. As with Les Amoureuses the wine is lightly fined but not filtered. Finally - in white at least - comes Exils, an anagram of silex, indicating that the soils that relate to this cuvée are more marked by flint. The fruit comes from a parcel of young vines on a slope overlooking the Loire in Thauvenay, to the east of Bué. The yields are lower at 35-45 hl/ha, and again the wine after fermentation is fined but not filtered. Lastly, there is one red cuvée bringing up the rear, the Réserve de Marcigoué, which is handled in much the same way as the domaine red, but the maceration of the fruit is a little longer with the reserve cuvée.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating (or in this case drinking) of course, and an examination of the Crochet wines quickly reveals that they are wines we should be excited about. Tasting through the range with Carine Crochet she suggested approaching the reds before the whites, which makes sense if you plan to achieve a full appreciation of these wines before the acidic assault of the Sauvignon arrives - except that the Sauvignons here are far more balanced than that statement suggests. Nevertheless, the reds came first, and although of good quality I wasn't particularly moved by the domaine wine, and whilst the Réserve de Marcigoué was nicely styled it wasn't one that appealed to me. The rosé was successfully elegant, a vinous rather than light-hearted style, but it was the white wines that really impressed. The domaine cuvée is nicely composed and also widely available at a fair price, and I would drink it with considerable contentment, but it was the three terroir wines that stole the show. Although I would not pretend to be able to identify them with great accuracy if tasted blind in isolation (well, I might make a stab at the Exils, to be honest), taking the three together revealed wonderful terroir-derived detailing, a firm and bold mouthfeel where caillottes is concerned, something more solid and dense with the chalky clay, and yet more vibrant, pure and filigree from the flint. Each one of high quality, each one scored differently, although this is a situation where it is perhaps style rather than score that really counts, and which wine is for you perhaps depends on your mood rather than anything else. Whichever you choose though, I can be sure that you are in for a vinous treat. (16/2/10)

Contact details:
Address: Marcigoué, 18300 Bué
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 48 54 21 77
Fax: +33 (0) 2 48 54 25 10

François Crochet - Tasting Notes

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François Crochet Sancerre 2009: Barely fermented, still a touch cloudy, so certainly an embryonic sample. Wonderful pear fruit, so fresh and lively on the nose. Rich, with a lovely weight, broad and lively. Finely acidic fruits, with citrus and peach skin and more than a modicum of savoury grip. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Le Chêne Marchand 2009: Like the 'domaine' cuvée a very fresh and aromatic wine here, pure and heady, with vivacious fruit. Lots of substance and richness on the palate, with a vibrant acid core. A fantastic presence, great flavour, underpinned by a great, stony power. There is lovely potential here. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Les Amoureuses 2009: Very accessible on the nose, but also a suggestion of firmness too, with white fruit aromas set against a stony background. There is a fine and vibrant acid backbone here, with a supple fruit and texture. An admirable, very polished style, perhaps a little softer than Le Chêne Marchand but certainly very good. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Exils 2009: In keeping with the showing of the 2008 this has a lovely, gentle style of fruit, stylish and aromatic, with citrus fruits and orange peel. Supple and fresh, yet broad and structured, with great vibrancy and appeal, this is a wine with superb potential for the future. Perhaps my pick of the bunch here, although we should wait until the wine is in bottle before any defined judgement. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Rosé 2009: Barely fermented, still a touch cloudy, so another embryonic sample here. A beautiful pale onion-skin hue, with pretty fruit on the nose, a little more creamy than the 2008, but this is served with a lovely vibrancy and freshness. Vivacious acidity, lovely texture, overall a beautifully styled wine. If they can keep this freshness and character in the wine through to bottling this will be brilliant. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre 2008: This is the entry level 'domaine' wine, a blend of fruit from all three terroirs, mostly limestone but also some clay-limestone and flint. All fermented en cuve. The nose is lovely, very fresh, pure and elegant, a touch minerally, with delicate citrus and stone fruit. Supple and polished, broadening out in the midpalate although it remains fresh and defined. A good, sappy, substantial and overall very stylish wine. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Le Chêne Marchand 2008: This comes from a limestone terroir, such soils known locally as caillottes, fermented in steel and then raised in the same for one year. It has a very classic and minerally nose, with compact notes of orange citrus fruits, although it is that mineral force which dominates. The palate then surprises, as it has an unexpected softness at first, although clearly with a lot of substance behind it, and then through the middle a lot of power too. An impressive style, supple but with a tight structure and lots of acid and grip. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Les Amoureuses 2008: This wine is sourced from three parcels of vines on clay-limestone soils. It has more open fruit on the nose, showing slightly waxy citrus and even a hint of peach. And it has just a touch more gras on the palate, creamily composed, substantial, with lovely fruit like that found on the nose backed up by plenty of acidity. Finely textured, flattering and accessible. Really good wine. 17+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Exils 2008: This cuvée is pure flint (silex) as the name suggests, sourced from a parcel near Thauvenay. Very evocative on the nose, certainly very different to the first two wines. Lots more fruit here, still a fine citrus character but much more overtly expressed. The palate continues in the same vein, round and almost fat with pleasure, but with a good stony texture beneath, and also super acidity. This is a finely styled wine, full of substance, extract and grip. It is delicious. 18+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Rosé 2008: This vintage has a slightly deeper hue than the 2009, but still has a delicate and minerally freshness with a light raspberry and peach character to it. A gentle substance on entry, although it has a little more punch in the midpalate, still with that fresh and delicate fruit profile. Minerally, linear, fresh, with fine acidity at its core, this is very stylish. 17.5/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Rouge 2008: Not yet bottled, this is an assembled sample from cuve and fut de chêne. Brighter fruit than the 2007, with a fresh red hue. Lightly crunchy on the nose, cherries again, with very gentle oak. Lifted, supple and fresh, this has very good definition of fruit, mingled with tannins and smoke. Supple and stylish, with good potential. 15.5-16.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Rouge 2007: From a blend of limestone and clay-limestone terroirs, vinified together, half in stainless steel cuve and half in tronconic futs de chêne, before an élevage of 16-18 months in oak. A moderately transparent wine, a good bright red though, with a warm nose of cherries, smoke and a little mocha. There follows a very softly styled palate with nice cherry fruit, showy, with cherry fruit as on the nose and a rather spicy edge. Good structure though, in terms of tannin, acid and grip. For me it just lacks the substance and depth for a higher score. 15+/20 (February 2010)

François Crochet Sancerre Rouge Réserve de Marcigoué 2007: The fruit here comes entirely from limestone terroirs, and it is vinified in 500-litre demi muids. It has only been in bottle one month. The nose suggests an attractive, smoky style, concentrated, more cherry fruit again. Good acidity on the palate, soft and slightly chalky with a good, substantial character. Lots of structure here, although with a supple, lightly creamed texture, nevertheless this is a wine that will benefit from some time in the cellar. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2010)