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François Cazin

To the south of Blois, a town perhaps best associated with its imposing château, lie the little-known twin appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny. Having only been awarded appellation status in 1993, neither are commonly spotted on the average wine merchant's list, and I think it is fair to say that these wines are a niche interest, most likely to appeal most to the hardened Loire fanatic. Of the two regions, Cheverny is the larger, and it is also the most familiar; the wines here are very similar in style to those of the surrounding Touraine appellations. The appellation regulations dictate Sauvignon-dominated whites (the grape must account for 60-85% of the blend), blended with Chardonnay, Menu Pineau, a little-known cousin of Chenin Blanc, and Chenin itself. The rosés and reds, meanwhile, are made from Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cot, Malbec and Pineau d'Aunis. The smaller enclave of Cour-Cheverny, however, is something very different indeed; it allows only for white wines made solely from Romorantin. Forty years ago this variety dominated this part of the Loire, but it has since retreated to this appellation, its last strong foothold in the region.

A look at INAO figures from 2005 give some indication of the state of these appellations, and the significance of François Cazin within. Cheverny is not too small, at 532 hectares and with 72 different domaines, co-operatives or négociants associated with the vineyards, but by comparison Cour-Cheverny is minuscule. There are just 30 domaines and similar working the vineyards, on just 48 hectares; of these, François Cazin owns a significant proportion. A meticulous viticulteur, Cazin still insists on picking entirely by hand. Once the harvest is in the fruit is moved only by gravity, fermented using wild yeasts, and bottled unfiltered. The results can be fabulous in my limited experience, these being wines of purity, minerality and a sweet-sour vibrancy that makes my mouth water for more. His white Cheverny is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay, whereas his Cour-Cheverny is naturally 100% Romorantin, in keeping with the above regulations. In favourable vintages, where there is good ripeness and sometimes even noble rot or passerillage to concentrate the sugars, the wine may be bottled with a level of residual sugar that puts it firmly into the demi-sec camp, when it is labelled as Cuvée Renaissance. (21/1/09)

Contact details:
Address: 41700 Cheverny
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 54 79 93 75
Fax: +33 (0) 2 54 79 27 89

François Cazin - Tasting Notes

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François Cazin Cour-Cheverny 2005: This wine has a pale yellow-straw hue. The nose is just delightful and should please all those who are looking for wines that move out of the fruit-dominated spectrum. On the nose this gives a sense of dried honey, almonds, plenty of minerals and a little organic, woolly, herby edge. There is perhaps a hint of sliced lemon, but otherwise this is not a wine strong on fruit. The palate is firm, quite compact, with good substance beneath, and lovely fresh acidity beneath the broad, vinous blanket of nuts and wool. It reveals a little nettly vibrancy at the finish, but otherwise remains a very solidly composed wine. Delicious, and certainly a credit both to the variety and the vigneron. 16.5/20 (January 2009)

François Cazin Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance 2004: A very pale wine, with a faint green tinge. Lovely aromatics, fresh and lifted, rich in citrus notes, lightly mineral, pure and a little leafy, with a little fruit salad sweetness. Beautifully fleshy entry, with the fabulous grapefruit-like composition of citrus fruit sweetness and forceful, pithy acidity. Not grapefruit flavour, more the structure - sweetness and forceful but fabulous, eye-popping acidity combined. A lovely, broad, mouth-filling style, with a fine grip underneath it all, and with a little sour bitterness to it too. This is just delightful, pleasing as it lingers on the palate. Slightly herby, sweet and fine. Brilliant. 17.5/20 (January 2009)