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Domaine Deletang
Domaine Deletang is run by Olivier Deletang, the fourth generation of the Deletang family to take control of the 20 ha of vineyards. The Deletang vineyards are sited on differing terroirs, both stony flint and limestone, in the Montlouis appellation. This lies on the left bank of the Loire, just a little upstream of Vouvray, which lies on the right bank.
Of principle interest, to me at least, are the moelleux cuvées. There are several, the first being Les Batisses, generally regarded as the top wine made from a limestone and flint lieu dit owned by Deletang. The others include St Martin le Beau and Les Petits Boulay, the latter made from a limestone and clay site. In the top vintages, however, such as 1989, 1990 and 1997, Deletang may offer a superior moelleux cuvée. In 1997, one of the Loire's recent greatest vintages, there were an impressive six moelleux wines released, including the Grande Réserve. In most vintages Deletang also offers two demi-sec and two sec cuvées of Montlouis, as well as Touraine wines and sparklers. (5/8/04)
Contact details:
Address: 37270 St-Martin le Beau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 50 67 25
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 50 26 46
Domaine Deletang - Tasting Notes
Domaine Deletang Montlouis Sec 'Les Batisses' 2002: A twintop cork.
Pale hue reflecting the cool climate, even in this excellent vintage. Clean
nose, although somewhat lean as well, giving little in the way of notable aroma;
just a slightly minerally, slightly grapey, watery-pure character. Less
aesthetically challenged types might liken it to the dew of a spring meadow. A
palate of purity, tingly acidity and decent texture. Actually shows a little
weight through the midpalate. Firm, citrussy finish. I expected more from this
vintage though. 15/20 (February 2005)
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Domaine Deletang Montlouis Moelleux Grande Réserve Tris 1997: A
mid-golden hue. The nose is opulent, full of caramel, over-ripe melon, toffee
and cream. This richness comes through on the palate, which has a pure
apple-edged freshness, surrounded by piles of rich, creamy texture and an
opulent caramel flavour. The acidity is subtle, the mouthfeel voluptuous and yet
limpid. This has the potential to improve with time in the cellar but lacks
perfect balance I feel. That isn't to say it isn't quite captivating now.
16.5+/20 (June 2004)
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Domaine Deletang Montlouis Moelleux 'Les Batisses' 1990: A moderately
deep, yellow-golden hue. Typical Chenin on the nose, full of smoky honeycomb and
straw character, with hints of white pepper too. Full, not quite creamy texture
on the palate, which is fresh and appealing, although it has somewhat low
acidity. But I suppose even the greatest examples of this appellation lack the
verve and focus of good Vouvray. Nevertheless, there's a concentration and depth
of botrytis-influenced flavour and texture which is worthwhile. Some early
complexity, and good length. Drink now and over the next ten years. Very good.
16.5/20 (February 2005)
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