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Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau

The domaine of Lydie and Max Cognard-Taluau dates back to 1974, beginning with the marriage of Lydie Taluau with Max Cognard. Lydie brought 2.5 hectares to the union, and the pair have never looked back since. From their home in Chevrette, just to the north of Bourgueil, today they tend 12 hectares of vines, of which 9 are entitled to the St Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation, and 3 are within the Bourgueil appellation boundary. The vineyards are devoted in entirety to Cabernet Franc, planted at a density of 4500 vines/ha, with the rows of vines interspersed with grass to keep down the weeds and to force the vines to root deeper for nourishment. Vineyard management is, on the whole, along the lines of lutte raisonnée, an increasingly popular system of agriculture which allows for appropriate use of chemical treatments where necessary, encouraging a reasoned approach to their application, and thus hopefully improving the quality and life of the soil underfoot. In more northerly climes such as the Loire, where rain, mildew and oidium are frequently observed visitors in many summers, many viticulteurs view organic viticulture as a step too far, and lutte raisonnée is a much more comfortable option.

From the St Nicolas vineyards comes Cuvée Estelle (which may also be labelled as La Vinée), an easy drinking cuvée produced from sandy terroirs. Of considerably more interest is the Cuvée Les Malgagnes, which comes from a 2 hectare plot of vines on a much more favourable terroir of clay and flint. This is perhaps the flagship cuvée; in my limited experience it has given much pleasure. The Bourgueil vineyards include a mix of terroirs, some clay and limestone, some sand and a very small section of gravel. These vineyards yield a red Cuvée les Tuffes, and there is also a rosé. In addition there is L’Euphoria, a sparkling rosé.

Although my experience of this domaine is limited to a few bottles of Les Malgagnes, a couple of these were frankly delicious, and the 2005 in particular was one of the most fabulous expressions of Cabernet Franc I have ever encountered. It confirmed for me, with barely a smell and a sip, the fantastic quality that this vintage offers in the Loire. (21/8/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chevrette, 37140 St Nicolas de Bourgueil
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 76 88
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 97 83
Internet: www.vins-stnicolas-bourgueil-cognard.com

Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau - Tasting Notes

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Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes 2005: On opening the bottle the wine releases a wave of fruit aromas, led by a vein of blackberry. In the glass it has a fine, dark, red-black hue, and the aromas continue to waft out in waves; the blackberries are followed by an array of crushed summer fruits, black cherries and a little cranberry, and then the non-fruit complexity follows. Sweet and smoky liquorice, sprinkled with white pepper. This is already explosive and plainly delicious, but the delights only continue on the palate, for here the wine displays a pure, seductive, silky-creamy texture intertwined with firm and charcoaly tannins. The balance is exquisite, and with that silky caress this wine has a set of qualities I would expect to find in much 'grander' examples of Cabernet Franc from a certain St Emilion estate. There is fabulous fruit richness here, and a superb, smoky, tobacco-infused finish. Pretty soon all that is left in the bottle is a sizeable spread of tartrate crystals, stained purple by the wine. This is undeniably one of the greatest examples of Cabernet Franc I have ever tasted, and a wine that I have stocked up on with the expectation that this will certainly do brilliantly in the cellar. For label images see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19+/20 (July 2008)

Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes 2002: Lots of tartrate crystals under the cork. A dark, red-black hue here, and a glossy rather than dense or opaque appearance. Rather cedary fruit at first on the nose, followed by notes of roasted raspberries, quite deep and characterful, but bright too. A lovely, very supple texture on entry, showing balance and elegance against the midpalate substance, and then a firmer, rather withdrawn, savoury-sour finish. This is lovely, very complete, mouth-watering in style, with a fine tannic structure. Lots of grip underneath it too, and this will do well in the cellar I am sure. It has all the life and substance of the 2005, but doesn't quite match the quality of that exalted vintage. This is still an exceptional wine though. 18/20 (July 2008)

Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes 2001: A lovely, pure, quite homogenous and moderately deep colour. A very typical nose, showing aromas of baked raspberry, raspberry leaf and green peppercorns, a characteristic of Cabernet Franc just hovering on the edge of ripeness I think. Medium bodied, fairly reserved at first, but then coming out with a light, oily-silky texture married with a hard, minerally, charcoal background. Lovely, seamless presence through the to the finish, though, where there are plenty of stalky tannins. I like this, and I think it will improve in the short term. 16.5+/20 (March 2006) Label