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Chéreau-Carré
Proprietors of what is surely one of the leading domaines of the Nantais, the Chéreau family can trace their presence in the region back to at least 1412; this long history is mirrored by the prevalence of the name Chéreau amongst the vignerons of the region. Nevertheless, this particular branch of the Chéreau family did not take to viticulture as a business until the mid-20th Century, following World War II. M Chéreau started with only the family vineyard, although his business soon expanded, with the acquisition of more vineyards over the ensuing years. The domaine began to take on the form we see today with the purchase of Chateau de Chasseloir in 1953, and then Chateau l'Oiselinière which came with his marriage to Edmonde Carré. Following this union the business was renamed Chéreau-Carré and the couple established their centre of operations at the aforementioned Chateau de Chasseloir. The business flourished, and in 1982 their son Bernard joined the team; he has been in sole charge of this impressive domaine since 2003. He has under his control a number of domaines, all of which exist under the Chéreau-Carré umbrella. The vineyards largely have the schistous terroir typical of the region, and are naturally planted with - for the Muscadet appellations at least - one variety, the Melon de Bourgogne. The bottlings that provide most interest are harvested by hand, mostly fermented in steel, and there is extensive use of the lees to provide an extra dimension. But there are, of course, some exceptions to all of these broad rules.
The Wines of Chéreau-Carré
The Chateau de Chasseloir, one of the early additions to the Chéreau empire, also
has a long history. The property boasts a tower, which has looked out over the vines
for at least six centuries, and a manor house. Once owned by the Leloup family,
after the Revolution the property passed through the hands of numerous owners
before coming to Chéreau. The vineyard accounts for 25 hectares of the estate, and the
vines are of good age, many having more than 40 years under their belt, and some
have passed more than a century rooted in these soils. There is hand-picking for the
majority of the fruit, although machines are also employed. There is an
entry-level Chateau de Chasseloir bottling, although a greater level of
excitement comes from the Comte-Leloup Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires, which as the
name suggests has its origins in the century-old vines. The vines are planted in
a single plot just in front of the cellars, and they claim - according to the Chéreau
family - the title of oldest vines in the Nantais. Although they were planted
after phylloxera swept across Europe in the late 18th Century, and were thus
established using grafted rootstock, today the vines are being replaced using a
layering technique which potentially exposes the vineyard to this widespread
disease. As a consequence, the future of the Ceps de Centenaires cuvée is very
uncertain. Nevertheless today, while those surviving vines continue to bear
fruit, the ripe grapes are harvested by hand, fermented in steel and then
bottled after a period sur lie. In addition, the Chéreau family also bottle some of
the Chasseloir fruit after vinification in new oak, as indicated by vinifié en fûts de
chêne neufs on the label.
Next in the Chéreau portfolio is the Chateau l'Oiselinière de la Ramée, which came to the domaine from the Carré family. This property has a 10 hectare vineyard with clay soils over deeper schistous elements, situated on a low hill near the union of the Sèvre and the Maine rivers. The vines hear also have at least forty years behind them, on average, and are in part hand-harvested. Following fermentation the wines see a period sur lie with batonnage, before bottling the following spring. As well as the straight domaine bottling there is also Le Clos du Chateau l'Oiselinière, from a select plot on soils of schist and orthogneiss, first released with the 2002 vintage. The third property managed under the Chéreau-Carré umbrella is Chateau de la Chesnaie, another 10 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne with micaschist and clay underfoot. And on the outskirts of Nantes is the Domaine du Bois Bouley, where 13 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne and Folle Blanche are harvested for Muscadet and Glos Plant respectively. Finally comes the La Griffe Bernard Chéreau cuvée, sourced from vines between five and 20 years of age. This is an unfussy wine which originated in 1977 following the creation of the sur lie designation. It is intended for drinking young, within a few years of bottling, although with good acidity behind it I expect, as is the case with many of these wines, that it will cellar very nicely.
The Chéreau-Carré domaine, scattered though it is, has strong leadership in the shape of Bernard Chéreau. No doubt this is fact is key to the domaine's success; it is certain, on tasting the wines, that here we are dealing with one of the most successful estates of the Nantais. The wines have vibrancy, in some cases they are fruit-rich, in others imbued with a depth of minerals, and in others a fine, polished, elegant style. But whatever the character, the common theme is one of freshness, vivacity and verve. These are wines born in the vineyard, sometimes of ancient vines, sometimes of vines standing on their own roots, rather than the grafted examples that naturally, thanks to phylloxera, dominate European vineyards. They are essential additions to the cellar of anyone who appreciates honesty in their wines, and anyone who believes in the synthesis between food and wine; in that arena, these are very strong players. (21/2/08)
Contact details:
Address: 44690 St Fiacre sur Maine
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 54 81 15
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 54 81 70
Internet:
www.chereau-carre.fr
Chéreau-Carré - Tasting Notes
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Chéreau-Carré Chateau l'Oiselinière de la Ramée Muscadet Sèvre
et Maine sur lie 2005: A crystal-clear appearance, with a
pale hue, perhaps a very pale lemon-gold is the best description. The nose,
however, is not so difficult to describe. This is a very vivacious wine indeed,
full of herb and citrus aromas, laden with stony fruit-tinged character, and
it is really very, very appealing from the outset. The palate keeps the quality
level up, as it is fresh but with a pile of powerful, tangy, citrussy flavour,
with a powdered rock edge. Lots of impact, a lovely weight, wonderful zip and
acidity, through to the chalky finish. This is superb stuff, fit to convert any
short-sighted Muscadet refusenik. 18/20 (February 2007)
Chéreau-Carré Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2003: A rather unusual dress for this bottle,
which bears a wire cage more readily associated with Rioja than the Nantais I
think. The
wine itself has a vibrant green-gold hue, with a nose of pears, white peaches
and watermelon. A real fruit salad here, with a sherbet and mineral tinged
character. Fresh and vibrant, crisp, ripe and vicacious in the mouth. Sappy,
fleshy, direct, pithy and delicious, with notes of apple skin, sprinkled with
salt and pepper. Wonderful, incisive acidity. This is very good indeed. It
has a riper character that might not appeal to true hard-core Muscadet fanatics,
but I think it delicious
17.5+/20 (February 2007)
Chéreau-Carré le Clos du Chateau l'Oiselinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2002: A very pale, lemon gold hue here. On
the nose, notes of citrus fruit, lemon-lime tinged sherbet, minerals and smoke.
It is fairly rich, and certainly open and accessible. A fresh, yet rich and
fairly weighty style. Underneath it there is a good structure, quite a bit of
grip, and this has a more austere style than many examples of the appellation.
There is a zingy character, and a herby freshness. It is very good but has a
polished, rather tightly
coiled character rather than the vivacity that would give us immediate pleasure.
It holds great promise for the future rather than today. 17+/20 (February 2007)
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