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Chéreau-Carré

Proprietors of what is surely one of the leading domaines of the Nantais, the Chéreau family can trace their presence in the region back to at least 1412; this long history is mirrored by the prevalence of the name Chéreau amongst the vignerons of the region. Nevertheless, this particular branch of the Chéreau family did not take to viticulture as a business until the mid-20th century, following World War II. The original viticultural Chéreau started with only the family vineyard, although his business soon expanded with the acquisition of more vineyards over the ensuing years. The domaine began to take on the form we see today with the purchase of Chateau de Chasseloir in 1953, and then Chateau l'Oiselinière which came with his marriage to Edmonde Carré.

Following this union the business was renamed Chéreau-Carré and the couple established their centre of operations at the aforementioned Chateau de Chasseloir. The business flourished, and in 1982 their son Bernard joined the team; he has been in sole charge of this impressive domaine since 2003. Bernard has under his control a number of domaines, all of which exist under the Chéreau-Carré umbrella. The vineyards largely have the schistous terroir typical of the region, and are naturally planted with - for the Muscadet appellations at least - one variety, the Melon de Bourgogne. The bottlings that provide most interest are harvested by hand, mostly fermented in steel, and there is extensive use of the lees to provide an extra dimension. But there are, of course, some exceptions to all of these broad rules.

The Wines of Chéreau-Carré

The Chateau de Chasseloir, one of the early additions to the Chéreau empire, also has a long history. The property boasts a tower which has looked out over the vines for at least six centuries, and also a manor house. Once owned by the Leloup family, after the Revolution the property passed through the hands of numerous owners before coming to Chéreau. The vineyard accounts for 25 hectares of the estate, and the vines are of good age, many having more than 40 years under their belt, and some have passed more than a century rooted in these soils. There is hand-picking for the majority of the fruit, although machines are also employed. There is an entry-level Chateau de Chasseloir bottling, although a greater level of excitement comes from the Comte-Leloup Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires, which as the name suggests has its origins in the century-old vines. The vines are planted in a single plot just in front of the cellars, and they claim - according to the Chéreau family - the title of oldest vines in the Nantais. Although they were planted after phylloxera swept across Europe in the late 18th Century, and were thus established using grafted rootstock, today the vines are being replaced using a layering technique which potentially exposes the vineyard to this widespread disease. As a consequence, the future of the Ceps de Centenaires cuvée is very uncertain. Nevertheless today, while those surviving vines continue to bear fruit, the ripe grapes are harvested by hand, fermented in steel and then bottled after a period sur lie. In addition, the Chéreau family also bottle some of the Chasseloir fruit after vinification in new oak, as indicated by vinifié en fûts de chêne neufs on the label.

Next in the Chéreau portfolio is the Chateau l'Oiselinière de la Ramée, which came to the domaine from the Carré family. This property has a 10-hectare vineyard with clay soils over deeper schistous elements, situated on a low hill near the union of the Sèvre and the Maine rivers. The vines hear also have at least forty years behind them, on average, and are in part hand-harvested. Following fermentation the wines see a period sur lie with bâtonnage, before bottling the following spring. As well as the straight domaine bottling there is also Le Clos du Chateau l'Oiselinière, from a select plot on soils of schist and orthogneiss and first released with the 2002 vintage. The third property managed under the Chéreau-Carré umbrella is Chateau de la Chesnaie, another 10 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne with micaschist and clay underfoot. And on the outskirts of Nantes is the Domaine du Bois Bouley, where 13 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne and Folle Blanche are harvested for Muscadet and Gros Plant respectively. Finally comes the La Griffe Bernard Chéreau cuvée, sourced from vines between 5 and 20 years of age. This is an unfussy wine which originated in 1977 following the creation of the sur lie designation. It is intended for drinking young, within a few years of bottling, although with good acidity behind it I expect, as is the case with many of these wines, that it will cellar very nicely.

The Chéreau-Carré domaine, scattered though it is, has strong leadership in the shape of Bernard Chéreau. No doubt this is fact is key to the domaine's success; it is certain, on tasting the wines, that here we are dealing with one of the most successful estates of the Nantais. The wines have vibrancy, in some cases they are fruit-rich, in others imbued with a depth of minerals, and in others a fine, polished, elegant style. But whatever the character, the common theme is one of freshness, vivacity and verve. These are wines born in the vineyard, sometimes of ancient vines, sometimes of vines standing on their own roots, rather than the grafted examples that naturally, thanks to phylloxera, dominate European vineyards. They are essential additions to the cellar of anyone who appreciates honesty in their wines, and anyone who believes in the synthesis between food and wine; in that arena, these are very strong players. (21/2/08)

Contact details:
Address: 44690 St Fiacre sur Maine
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 54 81 15
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 54 81 70
Internet: www.chereau-carre.fr

Chéreau-Carré - Tasting Notes

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Chéreau-Carré Chateau l'Oiselinière de la Ramée Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2006: From a clay and schist terroir, and 40-year-old vines. There is a golden tinge to this wine, and a wonderful nose, rich in sweet minerality and citrus fruits. A brilliant, vivacious character, very much in the same vein as the 2005. The palate follows on without any disappointment, a full style with plenty of texture, a substance like liquid stone, with a slightly bitter herbal element. Fabulous vibrancy, sappy and dry, but well endowed. Great wine. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Chéreau-Carré Chateau l'Oiselinière de la Ramée Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2005: A crystal-clear appearance, with a pale hue, perhaps a very pale lemon-gold is the best description. The nose, however, is not so difficult to describe. This is a very vivacious wine indeed, full of herb and citrus aromas, laden with stony fruit-tinged character, and it is really very, very appealing from the outset. The palate keeps the quality level up, as it is fresh but with a pile of powerful, tangy, citrusy flavour, with a powdered rock edge. Lots of impact, a lovely weight, wonderful zip and acidity, through to the chalky finish. This is superb stuff, fit to convert any short-sighted Muscadet refusenik. 18/20 (February 2007)

Chéreau-Carré Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2004: From 100-year-old vines planted in a single plot adjacent to the cellars, possibly the oldest vines in the appellation. A rich and soft-gold hue, and a delightful nose, full of golden crystalline fruit first of all, then a firm and minerally seam, like liquid stone. Notes of thyme too. An admirably sappy presence on the palate, vigorous and substantial, with lovely sweet and firm, crunchy-golden fruit cut through with good acidity and a bitter streak of smoke. A great presence on the palate when all is said and done, and a fine match with a crab and prawn fishcake. Firm finish. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Chéreau-Carré Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2003: A rather unusual dress for this bottle, which bears a wire cage more readily associated with Rioja than the Nantais I think. The wine itself has a vibrant green-gold hue, with a nose of pears, white peaches and watermelon. A real fruit salad here, with a sherbet and mineral tinged character. Fresh and vibrant, crisp, ripe and vivacious in the mouth. Sappy, fleshy, direct, pithy and delicious, with notes of apple skin, sprinkled with salt and pepper. Wonderful, incisive acidity. This is very good indeed. It has a riper character that might not appeal to true hard-core Muscadet fanatics, but I think it delicious 17.5+/20 (February 2007)

Chéreau-Carré le Clos du Chateau l'Oiselinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2003: This has a rich hue for Muscadet, and an aromatic nose, with plenty of sherbetty, smoky, rock-dusty character, with some elements of crystalline fruit, crisp lemon and thyme. There follows a lovely weight on entry, lots of stony minerality underneath a wealth of plump fruit on the palate, with a slightly bitter, firm element. The texture is rather broad and bold, rather than well framed, vivacious or vigorous, and I think some of the acidity that can make Muscadet so bracingly delicious is missing here. Nevertheless there is still a huge pile of character, a rich style, fine minerality and more. Overall, this is very good - nudging a silver medal, I think, but certainly a bronze if not! For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 16.5+/20 (June 2009)

Chéreau-Carré le Clos du Chateau l'Oiselinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2002: A very pale, lemon gold hue here. On the nose, notes of citrus fruit, lemon-lime tinged sherbet, minerals and smoke. It is fairly rich, and certainly open and accessible. A fresh, yet rich and fairly weighty style. Underneath it there is a good structure, quite a bit of grip, and this has a more austere style than many examples of the appellation. There is a zingy character, and a herby freshness. It is very good but has a polished, rather tightly coiled character rather than the vivacity that would give us immediate pleasure. It holds great promise for the future rather than today. 17+/20 (February 2007)