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Catherine & Pierre Breton

Those in possession of a little Loire knowledge will know that breton is of course a local synonym for Cabernet Franc, and so it seems somewhat fitting that one of the region's most dynamic estates should be run by a couple who also bear the name. There are other wine families with names perhaps similarly derived of course, particularly the Lebretons, namely Hubert and Jean-Yves of Domaine des Rochelles, and Victor and Vincent of Domaine de Montgilet, but Catherine and Pierre remain the only Bretons per se, as far as I know. Regardless, this estate should not be of interest to only genealogists or etymologists; the Bretons also happen to produce some of the most interesting wines of the Loire Valley, using some of the most painstaking and dedicated methods.

Catherine and Pierre have been in charge at their eponymous domaine since 1989, although Pierre had been here since 1982. It was not long before they were investigating biodynamics, with several vineyard trials in the early to mid-1990s. Nevertheless the duo felt that full biodynamic conversion was not for them, although they remain an organic, very "natural" estate. They are based just north of Restigné, a mere stone's throw from Pierre Jacques Druet who is just down the road, to the west. They live in an old but well restored farmhouse with adjacent cellars, surrounded by the vines of the Galichets vineyard. Les Galichets is but one part of their domaine, however, as the pair have about 10.5 hectares of vineyards to their name, including Les Perrières and Clos Sénéchal in Bourgueil, as well as vines in Chinon. These vineyards feature prominently in the Breton portfolio.

The Breton philosophy stems, in their own words, from a love of the land. The vineyards see ultra-intense organic care, no mean feat in this northerly clime; they avoid chemical fertilisers and weedkillers, restrict yields to something like 40-45 hl/ha (although some cuvées are below 35 hl/ha) and harvest by hand. Once the grapes have arrived at the cellars they are fermented according to terroir, with those from gravelly soils going into stainless steel, whereas those from clay-limestone vineyards are fermented in old oak vats. The Bretons use indigenous yeasts and their desire for "natural" winemaking comes through strong in their resistance to the use of sulphur, with typically just 10 mg/l added at bottling to many cuvées, although some are bottled without any sulphur at all. And they are bottled unfiltered. The range kicks off with some basic cuvées, a Bourgueil Rosé Avis de Vin Fort and a Bourgueil made by carbonic maceration, La Dilettante. One of the most notable wines is Nuits d'Ivresse, a wine produced from old vines on the clay-limestone terroirs Grand Mont (in Benais, vineyard that will be familiar to fans of Druet) and Le Peu Muleau (in Restigné). After fermentation the wine goes into used barrels for malolactic fermentation and bottled shortly afterwards. At no point does it see any sulphur, and with the consequent risk of oxidation and refermentation it is no surprise that the Bretons provide a warning printed on the labels, indicating that the wine should be stored at less than 14ºC.

Trinch! is perhaps one of the best known wines from the Bretons, the name apparently referring to the 'clink' made by two glasses knocked together in mutual celebration. It comes from young vines grown on gravelly soils, and the fruit is harvested by hand into small, 10 kg crates. Again sulphur is avoided during fermentation, with just a little added at bottling. Next is Les Galichets, which comes from 50-year-old vines around the Breton home, which sits on a raised alluvial terrace, therefore naturally with gravelly and sandy soils. As with Trinch!, the fruit is hand-harvested into small crates and fermented in stainless steel. Nevertheless the best wines are probably those from single vineyards, starting with Clos Sénéchal, where vines between 15 and 30 years of age sit on clay-limestone soils. The harvest is manual as above, the yields perhaps 35 hl/ha and the fermentation in wood. Finally comes Les Perrières, to my mind perhaps the best wine of the portfolio; the vines are 70-years-old, and are situated on a siliceous clay-limestone terroir . The yield can be very low - the 2005 was just 20 hl/ha - and after fermentation in wood the wine goes into barrel, 50% new, for malolactic fermentation.

This is by no means the end of the Bretons' work, however, as I have not mentioned the Bourgueil Franc de Pied, a wine produced from ungrafted vinestock planted by Pierre. He took cuttings from his own vines and established the vineyard in time for the 2002 vintage. Having seen a number of other viticulteurs toy with the ungrafted vine story and eventually give up - Charles Joguet is as good an example as any - I wonder how long they will persist with this effort. Finally in other appellations there is also the Chinons, Beaumont and Les Picasses, although the latter of these was lost from the portfolio after the 2004 vintage when the owner of the vineyard, from who the Bretons leased the vines, reclaimed his property for his own use. And, looking much further afield, there is the Vouvray Le Dilettante Sec, a non-vintage sparkling example produced from vines owned by Catherine's family. A new project, sealed with a crown cap, I can only look forward to my first opportunity to taste this wine. (16/10/08, updated 12/2/09)

Contact details:
Address: Les Galichets, 8 rue du Peu Muleau, 37140 Restigné
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 30 41
Internet: www.domainebreton.net

Catherine & Pierre Breton - Tasting Notes

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Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch! 2007: Harvested by hand from vines on gravel and clay-chalk soils. This has a red-purple hue in the glass, quite vibrant in fact, with a deep, slightly funky-earthy nose with good although slightly sweet and confected fruit, showing a tinge of cola and caramel at the edges. The palate has a soft character, although there is density and extract that provides substance, and a sappy, somewhat high-toned note. Overall this is bright, refreshing and appealing, although it has a short finish. Good. 15.5+/20 (July 2008)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc de Pied 2007: This wine has nice, bright fruit on the nose, with some cherry or cherry-stone notes. The palate shows dry, clean and gentle substance with a nice tannic backbone, appropriate for a lighter wine and nicely composed. A good fresh style, very easy to drink now. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 15.5/20 (February 2009)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Galichets 2007: A more minerally, herby, smoky character here, with raspberry fruit; a lean rather than fat style I think. A nice fresh style, although there is a canned-strawberry element to the flavour that doesn't appeal. A gentle tannic backbone, beneath moderate concentration. Decent wine. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 14.5/20 (February 2009)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Nuits d'Ivresse 2007: Not a very characterful nose here, showing a little smoky fruit; compared to the preceding wines it is rather muted. It has a bright and lively palate though, with a vivacious, bubbly and joyful character, backed up by an appealing, slightly stony-steely edge. Straightforward, but certainly a very drinkable wine. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 16/20 (February 2009)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Sénéchal 2007: Slightly peppery fruit here, roasted herbs, depth, but still a vivacious and youthful character. A nice substance, a dry and tannic backbone, with a gentle texture laid over it. This is a touch more serious than the preceding wines, showing more structure, and although it certainly has style I am a little concerned that it doesn't really have the depth of fruit to match. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 15.5+?/20 (February 2009)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Nuits d'Ivresse 2006: This cuvée is made from organic fruit, unsulphured and unfiltered. It has an appealing and dark red-black hue here, and also a delightful nose, with its floral aromas of violets, white flower petals mixed with the dark, brambly, blackberry fruits and black olives. The palate is fresh, sappy and lean, rather firm and rather detached at first on the palate. Then there is a round core of midpalate tannins, which has a little more flesh and extract than at the start, with a crisp bite at the finish. Rather short at the end, although the tannins linger in the mouth for a while. Interestingly the label clearly states that the wine "doit être stocké en dessous de 14ºC", wise advice with all unsulphured wines I think. 17+/20 (July 2008)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc de Pied 2006: Quite a lot of depth to the colour, here, plenty of pigment, and a very youthful purple tinge to the hue as well. The nose simply sings of the Loire, and of Bourgueil; there is a little vein of blueberry, and alongside that notes of blackcurrant leaf, tobacco and celery seed. The palate has a fine substance, showing flesh and body, but with a very light-filled, fresh, sappy and really rather juicy presence in the mouth. This persists, and covers the burgeoning seam of tannins that appears in the midpalate and which tries to dominate the finish rather well. This gives a lot of sweet and joyful pleasure now, but will certainly age nicely in the cellar. Very good indeed. 16.5+/20 (July 2008)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières 2006: A good depth of colour here; it puts the 2007s, tasted alongside, into context. More creamy fruit on the nose, again a very palpable difference. The fruit has a lovely silky-creamy character in the mouth, with a rather dry, rather less concentrated midpalate than expected, but with ripe tannins beneath. Good wine - although the 2005 was considerably more impressive. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières 2005: From clay and flint soils, non filtered, and "élevé en barrique". Another dark, red-black wine. A fabulous nose of liquorice, macerated berry fruit, spices and violets. On the palate, a fresh and lean character, although it has considerable substance and it is brimming with potential. There is a ripe, heady wealth of fruit, and importantly a truly silky quality to the structure, although it shows plenty of bite and grip at the finish. This is wonderful wine, with huge potential, although it is just delicious right now. Yet another indicator for what an amazing vintage this is for the red wines of the Touraine appellations. I have loaded up on this one. 18+/20 (July 2008)