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Château Rives-Blanques

The back streets of Cépie, on the D118 just north of Limoux, were certainly providing some entertainment. At least that is how I look back on my exploration of this tiny hamlet, perhaps with the benefit of some rose-tinted spectacles. In truth my feelings were more those of frustration; didn't I have to turn right at Cépie, following the signs? Finding no such guidance, however, I struck out along the Chemin de Montplaisir, which looked to be one of the better developed roads heading up into the hills behind the town. It came to an abrupt end, however, and I returned into Cépie to try again. Next up was the Chemin de Calvières, heading up past the cemetery. I ascended once more, negotiating a tight hair-pin bend with a precipitous drop on one side as the road degenerated into a pebbly track, before once again reaching a dead-end. Turning around this time was more difficult, but I was soon back in Cépie once more. The Chemin des Moulinières was next, and this did seem to offer more hope; the narrow road wound up and up into the hills, tarmac giving way to a concrete surface, cracked and crumbling in places, before once again I found myself on a stony track not really suitable for my hire-car. I was amongst vines now, but there was still no sign of Rives-Blanques. Accepting defeat, I telephoned proprietors Jan and Caryl Panman.

"Oh. Turn right after Cépie? OK".

Ten minutes later I arrived at Rives-Blanques, having followed the blue and gold signs that began just south of Cépie, and I found Jan and Caryl waiting to greet me. I switched vehicles, jumping into Jan's Landrover for a ride up into the vineyards first of all, a trip that took me past vines young and old, and up to some of the very vineyards I had reached with my ill-fated exploration just half an hour before. We stopped under some trees at the far end of the upper vineyards, overlooking more vineyards below and in the distance, the Pyrenees, and over a glass of Blanquette de Limoux Jan and Caryl reminded me of the Rives-Blanques story.

The Panmans and Rives-Blanques

Château Rives-Blanques lies at an altitude of 350 metres atop a plateau in Limoux, one of the Languedoc's few specifically white wine regions and the go-to appellation for sparkling wine in the region. It is named for the white peaks of the Pyrenees that we could see in the distance, and it has been home to Jan and Caryl Panman and their family since 2001. They were new to wine when they arrived I think, and they alluded to their life before Rives-Blanques only rather vaguely, although it was clearly a life that took them across the world, the pair having worked on four different continents. This history is perhaps reflected in this multinational set-up; Jan is Dutch by birth, Caryl is English, and they divide their time between Rives-Blanques in France and a home in Castletownshend, Ireland. Today though they are certainly vignerons, having thrown themselves head first into their new roles. Their children are flying or have flown the nest, but they still have Bruno the Springer Spaniel to keep them occupied, as well as a team of employees of course.

This team is headed up by Rives-Blanques manager Eric Vialade, a man who has clearly dedicated his life to the vine and to this domain. A third-generation winemaker he was educated in Bordeaux, and sensibly Jan and Caryl kept him on when they acquired the property. He brought them a deep knowledge of the vineyards and vines of Rives-Blanques, and he has now seen out more than 30 vintages at the estate. In addition the Panmans have also engaged the services of none other than Georges Pauli; he is probably best known for his role as technical director at Gruaud-Larose, but Pauli also runs a wine consultancy, and Rives-Blanques is just one of many clients scattered across the globe. He visits regularly to provide advice to the team.

The Rives-Blanques Vineyards and Vinification

If we were to search for an example of the model modern wine estate, perhaps Rives-Blanques might satisfy our quest. The maxim that great wine starts in the vineyard is certainly adhered to here; these vineyards were some of the first in France to be awarded the Agriculture Raisonnée accreditation by the Ministry of Agriculture, a reflection of the environmental integrity observed at this estate. Indeed the estate was once totally organic, but the Panmans' enthusiasm for this philosophy and practice waned when Flavescence Dorée, a bacterial disease spread by leaf-hopper for which there were no organic treatments, threatened to destroy much of the vineyard.

And so they adopted 'reasoned agriculture', a regimen which follows a number of organic principles but which does allow for chemical treatments, provided their use is justifiable and measured. Thus the only fertiliser to enrich these vineyards is the marc of pips and skins which is ploughed back into the soil, and we drove past one such pile of organic material as we ventured out into the vineyards. In addition, the vine rows are interplanted with clover as a further enrichment, thereby also keeping the weeds down and avoiding the need for herbicides. It would seem, however, that organic viticulture still calls to the Panmans; at present a 2-hectare block of Mauzac is nearing the completion of conversion back to agriculture biologique, in other words organics.

All told there are about 20 hectares of vineyard here, situated on glacial moraine, pebbly clay soils, and the vines are divided between all three of the Limoux varieties, with smaller plots of Sauvignon Blanc. For Limoux there are 9 hectares of Chardonnay, 2.4 hectares of Chenin Blanc and 7 hectares of Mauzac, with the oldest vines originating from plantings between 1972 and 1987. In addition there are also 2 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc, planted in 2006, although as this is not an authorised variety for Limoux this cuvée is bottled as a vin de pays. Overall the planting density is about 4444 vines/ha, and yields are admirably restricted to 35-45 hl/ha.

The Wines

We returned to the Rives-Blanques cellars and then tasting room in order to take a look at some of the wines, and we were joined briefly by Eric Vialade, before business soon took him away again. The fruit is harvested by hand and then vinified in a modern cellar, having been extensively re-equipped in the 1990s before an extension and the addition of a sorting table and new press in 2002. Sulphur use is minimal, overall perhaps half what is permitted for domaines certified as organic, and its use is lowest of all with the Chenin Blanc cuvée.

The portfolio of wines revolves around the three Limoux varieties, producing four examples of Limoux; each is bottled separately for three varietal cuvées, as well as there being a blend. First up is Chardonnay; this is the Cuvée de l'Odyssée, a special cuvée made from old, uncloned vines and vinified in oak as per the appellation regulations for Limoux. It has proved to be, over the years, something of a winner for the Panmans, notching up numerous gold medals and frequent mentions in Le Guide Hachette. In the case of Chenin Blanc there is Dédicace, again vinified in oak, and then there is Mauzac. Rather a Limoux specialty, this high-acid grape is ideal for the region's sparkling wine. At Rives-Blanques, however, as well as providing the base material for the sparkling Blanquette de Limoux, the variety is also vinified in isolation, in oak. The norm throughout the appellation is to blend Mauzac, and to the best of my knowledge this single-variety cuvée is unique. In honour of this long relationship between variety and region the wine is named Cuvée Occitania (this part of France being Occitan, of course) and the label bears the inscription Nostra terra mentis pas meaning "our soil tells no lies" in the Occitan tongue. Finally, all three varieties come together in Trilogie, a blend of some of the best barrels as judged by Vialade and Pauli.

There are other wines produced here, the aforementioned Blanquette de Limoux of course, as well as a Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc blend, a Vin de Pays d'Oc, and these are both serviceable wines. More important perhaps are two other curiosities which certainly cannot go unmentioned. The first is Sauvageon, a Sauvignon Blanc cuvée produced from those new vines; the term sauvageon is apparently a name for Sauvignon Blanc when it is found growing wild. The fruit is handled very much as if it were Limoux, that means barrel-fermentation and oak-ageing, so this won't be to everybody's taste. I found it very appealing though, and I am looking forward to seeing how it performs with a few years bottle age. And lastly there is also a dessert wine, a rarely produced cuvée; in 2004 this was Cuvée Xaxa, named in honour of their daughter, and produced for the express purpose of celebrating a significant birthday. It is a late harvest style, in the case of Xaxa a 60:40 blend of Chenin Blanc and Mauzac; there are more details in my tasting note below. Expect to find this wine produced only in those vintages when the Panmans' offspring have something worth celebrating though!

I first tasted the wines of Rives-Blanques in 2006 and I was impressed by the quality, in particular the Chenin Blanc, which I described as "certainly the finest Chenin outside of the Loire I have encountered". But this isn't a domaine where only Chenin shines, that is clear. There are delicious wines here across the board, the exciting and ageworthy Chardonnay l'Odyssée, the elegantly complex Trilogie and even the much maligned Mauzac performs well in the Occitania. To experience the best of what Limoux has to offer, you cannot overlook Rives-Blanques. In short, this is a must-taste domaine. (21/9/06, updated 20/10/09)

Contact details:
Address: 11300 Cépie, Languedoc-Roussillon
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 31 43 20
Fax: +33 (0) 4 68 31 43 20
Internet: www.rives-blanques.com

Château Rives-Blanques - Tasting Notes

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Château Rives-Blanques Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 2008: Fermented in steel, with bâtonnage. No oak. Bottled under screwcap. Rather perfumed and floral on the nose, with the suggestion of sweet and plump fruit. Similarly sweetly ripe fruit on the palate, clean, bright, a little herbal. Soft edges, with fuzzy definition though. Pear and apple fruit. A short finish. Nice, easy-drinking wine. 15/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Sauvageon (VdP d'Oc) 2008: A new project, only started in 2007 (in a non-commercial quantity) this is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc cuvée. Managed in a manner akin to the Limoux wines, this means barrel-fermented Sauvignon with a short period of barrel age before bottling. The nose belies the variety, although the palate has more in common with the estate's various Limoux cuvées than with any Sauvignon preconceptions you might bring to this wine. Full, substantial palate, sweet and almost nutty, this is as far from Marlborough Sauvignon as you could get. I know some people find the combination of oak and Sauvignon to be the devil's work, but I really like this. 16-16.5+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée Occitania Mauzac 2008: This cuvée, 100% Mauzac, is sourced from a 2 hectare plot just below the main plain where majority of the Rives-Blanques vines sit. The plot is nearing agriculture biologique certification. Fermented and raised in oak, for 6 months in total, with bâtonnage twice per week. The label declares Nostra terra mentis pas (our soil doesn't lie). Very aromatic on the nose, with white peach and other stone fruits. A lovely, full style on the palate, better defined than the VdP above. Full, fresh, substantial but dry and fresh. A good example of this indigenous variety. 16.5+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux La Trilogie 2008: Only bottled two weeks ago, this is a blend of all three Limoux varieties, with 50% Chardonnay, the remainder Chenin Blanc and Mauzac. It is selected from the best barrels and then blended. Obviously youthful on the nose, with sweet and aromatic fruit with a pear character. The palate is really very good; full and sweetly endowed, with notes of jasmine over the pear fruit. Elegant, floral, balanced and aromatic, with a little meatiness towards the end, this is very good indeed. 17-17.5+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée Dédicace Chenin Blanc 2007: Fermented in oak, then half left in oak for a total six months, the other half out into tank after four months. The name of this cuvée reflects the Panmans' dedication to the appellation and terroir, and each vintage is also dedicated to an individual. Very fresh on the nose, although youthful displaying some richness, related to the bâtonnage? The palate is rounded off but elegant, stylish, but quite full and almost meaty. Toothsome, in fact. Good, with potential. 16.5+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée Dédicace Chenin Blanc 2006: A slightly deeper colour than the 2007, with very classic evolving Chenin honey and straw on the nose; it is characteristics like these, combined with an old-world structure, that led me to describe the 2004 as the best Chenin outside the Loire valley I had ever tasted. Very rich on the palate, perhaps a touch less acidity than the 2007. Stylish, quite full, very overtly Chenin. Firm, with good substance, spice and length in the finish. Fine potential here. 16.5-17+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée de l'Odyssée Chardonnay 2006: There is a slightly unusual style to this vintage, with a sweet and honeyed nose also showing elements of ginger cake and syrup sponge, marmalade and spice. The palate is soft, honeyed and cakey, rather like the nose. Good substance, lightly tannic, rather akin to a red wine. The Panmans feel this benefits from decanting, and I would probably agree with them. Nice. 16+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée de l'Odyssée Chardonnay 2005: This has a much fresher character than the 2006, and one that appeals much more to me. There is richness here, a lemon-honey cake character, but it is cut through with elements of smoke, toast and importantly a vibrant freshness. The palate is full, crisp, with lovely acidity, a light minerality and notes of crunchy toasted biscuit and charcoal. Vivacious and with the potential to give more, although it is just fine for drinking now. 16.5+/20 (July 2009)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée Occitania Mauzac 2004: A fascinating cuvée made from 100% Mauzac, barrel-fermented in French oak followed by ten months in same, a treatment very much in evidence when tasting. A well-coloured almost shimmering golden hue in the clear bottle and in the glass. A nose of oiled oak barrel with an appealing, honeyed, oatmeal character; this sort of seasoning may very well be necessary with this fairly neutral high-acid variety, although as this is the only example of pure Mauzac in existence I naturally have no prior experience! Very fresh impact on the palate, despite the overlay of mealy oak, helped by the expected but very well defined acidity. Nicely filled out on the palate, underpinned by some fairly obvious grippy oak tannin. Slowly fading finish. Good quality is evident here. Likely to show some benefit from a year or two in the cellar, I think. 16.5/20 (September 2006)

Château Rives-Blanques Limoux Cuvée Dédicace Chenin Blanc 2004: Another barrel-fermented cuvée, but here this treatment is much less obvious. Full, honey and straw character on the nose, it is rich in aroma but without any great minerality or precision. Similar character on the palate, very full and textured, a warm and enveloping texture carrying a raft of straw and mineral characters, buoyed along by a very firm, grippy substance which probably indicates the presence of some barrel-derived tannins. Very well balanced acidity, rolling across the palate; this wine shows much of Chenin's character, although it lacks the huge depth or finish of a great and mature Chenin, such as from Savennières, at present. Nevertheless it is a full, fine example of the variety, and as well as drinking well now it should do very well in the cellar, and it would be interesting to see just what complexity developed; I suspect it may be considerable. Impressive, certainly the finest Chenin outside of the Loire I have encountered. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)

Château Rives-Blanques Cuvée Xaxa Vendange d'Hiver (Vin de Table) 2004: This curiosity is a late harvest style, 60% Chenin Blanc harvested in November, and 40% Mauzac harvested in January 2005. There is no tradition or recognition of this style in the region, so it is classed as a vin de table. It has 90 g/l of residual sugar. An intense orange-fruit nose, with candied peach and apricot too. Sweet, full, quite elegant, with good acidity and freshness. Firm with a gentle substance. Really very appealing wine with a sweet, characterful finish. 16+/20 (July 2009)