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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Chateau de Mattes-Sabran is a massive 615 hectare estate in the Sigean sub-region (as yet not legally defined) of Corbières, France's fourth largest appellation. Here the soils consist, generalising, of marine clay and limestone, and Jean-Luc Brouillat and his wife continue the family tradition of tending vines on this estate, which has been in the family since 1733. There are about 90 ha of vines all told, planted in 3 ha blocks, in two large portions. There is a 27 ha portion on the soils typical of Corbieres, and a larger 60 ha portion around the house, planted on alluvial gravel and on limestone and marl. These vineyards support a range of varieties, the reds including Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, the whites Vermentino (also known as Rolle), as well as the more usual 'international' varieties.

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran The wines tasted here are all from the 2003 heat-wave vintage, and so I was unsure as to whether or not I would find anything of quality. But I was unnecessarily concerned, the reds had lots of voluptuous fruit and texture, more than enough to match the firm, tannic backbone which I was expecting, and which many of them displayed. The white was also enjoyable, but doubtlessly would have been much more so with some more apparent acidity. For those who value transparency (myself included) these were samples sent from Jean-Luc himself, who finds himself without a UK importer. This is the second time I have encountered an excellent range of wines from the Languedoc that are otherwise unavailable in the UK, and again I find myself mystified; these are full, pleasing wines and I can honestly say I not only tasted them, but I sat back with a glass or two of each and enjoyed drinking them. Any sensible merchant would have these on a list as excellent midweek drinking; I have included the wine-searcher links () in hope of just such a listing in the UK, but also for readers in the USA and Netherlands, who are more likely to be able to locate these wines. (7/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: Mattes, 11130 Sigean
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 48 22 77
Fax: +33 (0) 4 68 48 55 32
Internet: www.mattes-sabran.fr

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran - Tasting Notes

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2005

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos du Moulin Blanc 2005: This is 100% Rolle. A very pale hue. A firm and floral nose, with aromas of macerated peaches, acacia and pine nuts. This is solid but attractive. Full bodied on the palate, as flavoursome as the nose is aromatic, with some spicy perfumed character. There is a firm backbone of 14.2% alcohol and a nice little grip. Good, and clearly superior to the 2003. 16/20 (April 2007)

2004

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Sabran' 2004: A blend of Shiraz and Grenache. A dark, not quite impenetrable, deep red hue. The nose is rather reticent and brooding at first, but over a few hours it gradually reveals fleeting glimpses of fruit, firstly blueberry, then a little raspberry. After a few hours the palate demonstrates a fine balance, gradually shaking off its initially rather an austere structure and firm texture. There is a firm nature to the tannins, but it has a freshness alongside a good grip, and a purity of the fruit, although it remains dark, charcoaly and reserved. It has a fine extract too. Really rather good potential here. Although this may be better if left in the cellar for a year or two, it is fine now provided it receives a few hours of time in a decanter. 17/20 (April 2007)

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos Redon 2004: This is 100% Syrah. A dense, inky, glossy, impenetrable hue. Hugely aromatic on the nose, with notes of toffee and caramel, probably toasted oak residuals. Lots of dark, concentrated, confit-style fruit too. Full, creamy, yetfresh on the palate, nicely balanced, with a grippy core surrounded by a dark, chocolatey, caramelly raft of fruit. Delightful finish. Needs time for it all to integrate, but with time could be really great. 17.5+/20 (April 2007)

2003

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos du Moulin Blanc 2003: This is 100% Rolle. It has an appealing depth of colour, and a vibrant, multi-facetted nose with notes of melon, pear and peach fruit. It gives a firm suggestion of alcohol. On the palate it is full, structured, fresh and cool. It offers just a little grip, with rather low acidity, unsurprising in this heatwave vintage. It has a charming, individual appeal. In a more favourable vintage I'm sure this would be a delight. Good. 15.5/20 (February 2006)

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Sabran' 2003: A super-ripe blend of Shiraz and Grenache here, with a really dense, opaque colour. Dark, roasted, brooding fruit on the nose, with appealing nuances of coffee, burnt caramel and treacle. Very sturdy on entry, with lovely depth and concentration of flavour. Robust tannins, with plenty of voluptuous texture carrying the fruit. Good grippy presence, and a little length too. This is very good indeed. 17/20 (February 2006)

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Dionysus' 2003: A three-grape blend, apparently in mind of Chateauneuf du Pape, so I imagine it is Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Red-purple in colour, clearly very youthful. Ripe and plush with deep, dark, velvety fruit on the nose, with an earthy, savage character behind. Clean entry, immediately revealing more of that animalistic, rustic character, before the wall of tannin hits on the midpalate. Chocolatey-creamy texture, full and pleasing, but that core of tannin is quite dominating. Dry, grippy finish. I like this despite the rather overbearing tannins which are reflective of the vintage. 17/20 (February 2006)

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos Redon 2003: This is 100% Syrah. A lovely dark colour, and a ripe, deep, plush presence of blackberries and pepper on the nose, which is very expressive. The palate maintains this vibrancy, with bright raspberry and blackberry fruit wrapped in a sumptuous, creamy texture, backed up by fine grained tannins in the background. Decent acidity and clean finish, with lovely length. This is very good indeed, and should improve over the next 3-5 years. 17.5+/20 (February 2006)

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Cuvée Chevreuse 2003: Another hugely dense, opaque, red-black wine, this is the flagship cuvée. Based on Syrah, it sees up to 18 months in barrel, 50% new each year. The nose is stuffed with super-concentrated, sweet berry fruit, with dark, chocolatey, honey-oak nuances. Rich on entry, with a rounded, creamy-chocolatey texture, which develops into a voluptuous midpalate. Ripe forest fruits, with slightly herby, garriguey nuances, a decent acid backbone giving a well delineated structure. Very good indeed, better with two or three years in the cellar I think. 17.5+/20 (February 2006)