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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran
Chateau de Mattes-Sabran is a massive 615 hectare estate in the Sigean
sub-region (as yet not legally defined) of Corbières, France's fourth largest
appellation. Here the soils consist, generalising, of marine clay and limestone,
and
Jean-Luc
Brouillat and his wife continue the family tradition of tending vines on this
estate, which has been in the family since 1733. There are about 90 ha of vines
all told, planted in 3 ha blocks, in two large portions. There is a 27 ha
portion on the soils typical of Corbieres, and a larger 60 ha portion around the
house, planted on alluvial gravel and on limestone and marl. These vineyards
support a range of varieties, the reds including Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre,
the whites Vermentino (also known as Rolle), as well as the more usual
'international' varieties.
The wines tasted here are all from the 2003 heat-wave vintage, and so I was
unsure as to whether or not I would find anything of quality. But I was
unnecessarily concerned, the reds had lots of voluptuous fruit and texture, more
than enough to match the firm, tannic backbone which I was expecting, and which many of them displayed. The
white was also enjoyable, but doubtlessly would have been much more so with some
more apparent acidity. For those who value transparency (myself included) these
were samples sent from Jean-Luc himself, who finds himself without a UK
importer. This is the second time I have encountered an excellent range of wines from
the Languedoc that are otherwise unavailable in the UK, and again I find myself
mystified; these are full, pleasing wines and I can honestly say I not only
tasted them, but I sat back with a glass or two of each and enjoyed drinking
them. Any sensible merchant would have these on a list as excellent midweek
drinking; I have included the wine-searcher links (
)
in hope of just such a listing in the UK, but also for readers in the USA and
Netherlands, who are more likely to be able to locate these wines. (7/3/06)
Contact details:
Address: Mattes, 11130 Sigean
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 48 22 77
Fax: +33 (0) 4 68 48 55 32
Internet:
www.mattes-sabran.fr
Chateau de Mattes-Sabran - Tasting Notes
Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos du Moulin Blanc 2005: This is
100% Rolle. A very pale hue. A firm and floral nose, with aromas of macerated
peaches, acacia and pine nuts. This is solid but attractive. Full bodied on the
palate, as flavoursome as the nose is aromatic, with some spicy perfumed
character. There is a firm backbone of 14.2% alcohol and a nice little grip.
Good, and clearly superior to the 2003. 16/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Sabran' 2004: A blend of Shiraz
and Grenache. A dark, not quite impenetrable, deep red hue. The nose is rather
reticent and brooding at first, but over a few hours it gradually reveals
fleeting glimpses of fruit, firstly blueberry, then a little raspberry. After a
few hours the palate demonstrates a fine balance, gradually shaking off its
initially rather an austere structure and firm texture. There is a firm nature
to the tannins, but it has a freshness alongside a good grip, and a purity of
the fruit, although it remains dark, charcoaly and reserved. It has a fine
extract too. Really rather good potential here. Although this may be
better if left in the cellar for a year or two, it is fine now provided it
receives a few hours of time in a decanter. 17/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos Redon 2004: This is 100%
Syrah. A dense, inky, glossy, impenetrable hue. Hugely aromatic on the nose,
with notes of toffee and caramel, probably toasted oak residuals. Lots of dark,
concentrated, confit-style fruit too. Full, creamy, yetfresh on the palate,
nicely balanced, with a grippy core surrounded by a dark, chocolatey, caramelly
raft of fruit. Delightful finish. Needs time for it all to integrate, but with
time could be really great. 17.5+/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos du Moulin Blanc 2003: This is
100% Rolle. It has an appealing depth of colour, and a vibrant, multi-facetted
nose with notes of melon, pear and peach fruit. It gives a firm suggestion of
alcohol. On the palate it is full, structured, fresh and cool. It offers just a
little grip, with rather low acidity, unsurprising in this heatwave vintage. It
has a charming, individual appeal. In a more favourable vintage I'm sure this
would be a delight. Good. 15.5/20 (February 2006)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Sabran' 2003: A super-ripe blend
of Shiraz and Grenache here, with a really dense, opaque colour. Dark, roasted,
brooding fruit on the nose, with appealing nuances of coffee, burnt caramel and
treacle. Very sturdy on entry, with lovely depth and concentration of flavour.
Robust tannins, with plenty of voluptuous texture carrying the fruit. Good
grippy presence, and a little length too. This is very good indeed. 17/20 (February 2006)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières 'Dionysus' 2003: A three-grape
blend, apparently in mind of Chateauneuf du Pape, so I imagine it is Grenache,
Syrah and Mourvèdre. Red-purple in colour, clearly very youthful. Ripe and plush
with deep, dark, velvety fruit on the nose, with an earthy, savage character
behind. Clean entry, immediately revealing more of that animalistic, rustic
character, before the wall of tannin hits on the midpalate. Chocolatey-creamy
texture, full and pleasing, but that core of tannin is quite dominating. Dry,
grippy finish. I like this despite the rather overbearing tannins which are
reflective of the vintage. 17/20 (February 2006)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Clos Redon 2003: This is 100%
Syrah. A lovely dark colour, and a ripe, deep, plush presence of blackberries
and pepper on the nose, which is very expressive. The palate maintains this
vibrancy, with bright raspberry and blackberry fruit wrapped in a sumptuous,
creamy texture, backed up by fine grained tannins in the background. Decent
acidity and clean finish, with lovely length. This is very good indeed, and
should improve over the next 3-5 years. 17.5+/20 (February 2006)
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Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Corbières Cuvée Chevreuse 2003: Another
hugely dense, opaque, red-black wine, this is the flagship cuvée. Based on
Syrah, it sees up to 18 months in barrel, 50% new each year. The nose is stuffed
with super-concentrated, sweet berry fruit, with dark, chocolatey, honey-oak
nuances. Rich on entry, with a rounded, creamy-chocolatey texture, which
develops into a voluptuous midpalate. Ripe forest fruits, with slightly herby,
garriguey nuances, a decent acid backbone giving a well delineated structure.
Very good indeed, better with two or three years in the cellar I think. 17.5+/20
(February 2006)
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