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Comte Cathare

The Comte Cathare umbrella covers a number of properties across the Languedoc, all of which are controlled by Bertie Eden, great-nephew of Anthony Eden, one-time Prime Minister of the UK. This is a fascinating estate, producing a range of wines from vineyards all cultivated using environmentally-friendly methods - biodynamics no less. For those unfamiliar with this ethos, I have given an account sufficiently detailed for most in my Coulée de Serrant profile. In essence it involves organic viticulture - eschewing herbicides and pesticides - which can only be a good thing. It also emphasises the importance of the soil as a vital, living entity. Both Nicolas Joly and Bertie Eden nourish the soil with carefully selected manure, ensuring the vines root in an environment rich in microbial activity.

Eden clearly cares passionately about the environment, and as well as an excellent range of estate wines he has also produced a number of special cuvées on behalf of The Rainforest Foundation and The Woodland Trust. Nevertheless it is the estate wines that please, year in and year out. These are as follows:

• Chateau Maris in Minervois might be considered the centre of Eden's operations.
• Domaine Montahuc in St Jean de Minervois, the source of benchmark sweet Muscat.
• Domaine Combebelle in St Chinian.

As well as producing some excellent wines, Comte Cathare also encompasses a Michelin-starred restaurant Le Relais de Pigasse, together with an hotel due to open in 2005.

In addition one further domaine, Domaine Begude in Limoux, where Eden and team produced a very good Chardonnay typical for the appellation, has been a strong member of the Comte Cathare group for a number of years. Since the 2004 vintage, however, this is now owned and run by Brit James Kinglake, assisted by Australian oenologist Richard Osborne. (21/6/04, updated 9/6/06)

Contact details:
Address: 34210 La Livinière
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 91 42 63
Fax: +33 (0) 4 68 91 62 15
Internet: www.comtecathare.com

Comte Cathare - Tasting Notes

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Domaine de Montahuc Muscat Vin Doux Naturel (Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois) 2002: The 1999 was a star, although the 2000 paled in comparison. Pale hue here. An interesting, floral aroma, of sweet, plump Muscat grapes. Lighter palate, more inconsequential than the 1999. Decent, full sweetness though, with some grip, showing mainly at the finish. Some minty, green herbal notes too. Good, but why has the quality of the 1999 never been revisited? 15/20 (March 2005)

Comte Cathare Marsanne-Viognier (VdP d'Oc) 2000: A rich, golden hue to this wine. It has a delightful nose, redolent with aromas of almonds, pistachios, furniture oil, honey and a touch of white fruit. Fresh, slightly oily weight and delicious acidity. Very dry, but with lovely slightly mealy, honeyed, complexity. Balanced and somewhat elegant. 16.5/20 (March 2001) Label

Chateau Maris Minervois La Liviniere 'Fond de Cuve' 2000: An unusual faux-hand written label for this special cuvée from the Minervois cru of La Liviniere. It has a deep, youthful red-black hue, and some impressively rich, ripe, brawny, meaty fruit on the nose. This masculine character continues on the palate, but with a rich, rounded, succulent presence. Ripe, supple tannins and lovely concentration. Delicious stuff. 17/20 (June 2004) Label

Domaine de Montahuc Muscat Vin Doux Naturel (Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois) 2000: A lemon gold colour, with a pleasant nose of very slightly honeyed fruit, blossom and musk. The palate is nicely balanced, with low but sufficient acidity matched up with a fairly simple sweetness with no great complexity of flavour, although it has plenty of varietal typicity. It lacks the heady intensity of the 1999, but is a pleasant drink in its own right. 15.5/20 (October 2001)

Domaine de Montahuc Muscat Vin Doux Naturel (Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois) 1999: Two bottles within a few months of one another. A gorgeous nose - typically aromatic and floral Muscat aromas, with fresh citrus peel. A deliciously textured palate, beautifully balanced, rich and floral. Luscious, sweet canned tropical fruit, and an aromatic finish. The same spicy, floral Muscat nose. Superb balance of components on the palate, loaded with rich, aromatic spice and citrus peel, and yet it seems to flow so elegantly across the palate. Incredibly delicious and excellent value. A new benchmark in dessert Muscat for me. 18/20 (March 2001)