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Domaine Begude

The modern-day story of Begude really begins with a character by the name of Robert Eden, the great-nephew of Anthony Eden, British foreign secretary during World War II and subsequently prime minister between 1955 and 1957. Seemingly known to everyone as Bertie, Eden developed quite a presence on the UK wine scene in the 1990s with a portfolio of good-value wines from his conglomerate of Languedoc estates which were grouped together under the Comte Cathare umbrella. These wines were generally to be found on the shelves in Oddbins, at a time when the range offered there still reflected the chain's vibrant and dynamic past, before the disastrous Castel Frères takeover put an end to all that. Particularly good were the wines from Domaine Begude; the fresh and bright Chardonnay-based Limoux, ripe but not blowsy, was a contrast to many less dull and uninspiring Languedoc whites. I remember buying a drinking a good number of bottles.

Despite apparent commercial success, however, during the early years of the 21st century Bertie and his American financiers were looking for a way out of Begude. Were they over-stretched financially? Or was it merely the right time for the investors to see a return on their investment? Whatever the reason, Begude was on the market, just at the right time for James Kinglake and his wife Catherine, who were keen and interested potential buyers.

James Kinglake was head of equity sales at Commerzbank, a high-flying city job, but he was looking for change. A new life as a vigneron somewhere near the Mediterranean seemed to tick all the boxes; not only a change in climate, but a new pace of life, away from the pressures of the city, and perhaps a chance to start a family. He and Catherine hunted long and hard for a suitable property, taking in 50 such estates all over southern France, across the Languedoc and even the much-maligned Gaillac appellation. It was then that they found Begude, a hilltop domaine not far from the town of Limoux, with more than 20 hectares of vines and a track record - thanks to the Eden's work - of selling these wines in foreign markets. Its location also held some appeal, being just a stone's throw from the ski-slopes of the Pyrenees, one hour from the Mediterranean, and thanks to the airport at nearby Carcassonne not that far from the UK, not just their homeland but also their prime export market.

Domaine Begude: The Vineyards

In 2003 the deal was completed and the Kinglakes became the owners of a fine domaine featuring vineyards that have been cultivated since the 16th century, on this hilltop site very close to Rives-Blanques, another source of high quality Limoux. They are planted largely with Chardonnay, but also with some Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. The appellation allows for Chenin Blanc, naturally appealing to me with my interest in the wines of the Loire, this variety's spiritual home, and also Mauzac, a vine closely associated with the appellation. Nevertheless, neither variety is heavily featured at Begude. Mauzac is notable by its absence, whereas the most Chenin achieves here is a minor supporting role in the vin de pays Chardonnay, its contribution varying but not generally higher than 14%.

The first task upon taking control of the domaine was to appoint a vineyard manager, which was achieved through the process of interview. Kinglake tells me that after short-listing two candidates turned up; the first wore a suit and carried a briefcase, and perhaps reflecting his rejection of life as a city money-man, Kinglake rejected this candidate. The second was Laurent Girault, a man born into a family of vignerons. Having lived a life in wine, including some experience in Central Otago in New Zealand, Girault might seem an obvious choice. When he turned up for interview he dressed casually, but it was his clear interest in the terroir that I think had Kinglake hooked. The two walked in the vineyard, Girault clearly not afraid to get his hands dirty. Today Begude is principally a team of two, Kinglake (below, right) and Girault (below, left), although we should not forget the Australian oenologist Richard Osborn, who also consults here.

The harvest is by hand in the case of the very best plots, by machine elsewhere, and after a gentle pneumatic pressing the fermentation is in either oak or steel, depending on the appellation. As he is looking for freshness and vivacity Kinglake looks to ferment his vin de pays wines in stainless steel, with no or minimal oak contact. This is in contrast to his Limoux cuvées which, as laid down in appellation regulations, must be fermented and raised in oak.

Domaine Begude: The Wines

Starting with the Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has great freshness and acidity, and wonderful lift, and I found it to be rather more reminiscent of a Loire Valley style rather than the flabby, low-acid and over-ripe examples that can still be found in the Languedoc today. Impressive, attractive and very versatile, and naturally bottled under screwcap, this is a very good commercial wine. And indeed this is true of all Begude's vin de pays cuvées, which also include a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir rosé. Unusually the Chardonnay includes a percentage of Chenin Blanc, the exact amount varying according to when the wine is released. This reflects Kinglake's belief that the palate of a pure Chardonnay cuvée tends to fall flat after just a few months in bottle, so that two bottles of the same wine opened six months apart can taste completely different. To try and counter this he blends in a proportion of Chenin Blanc to give the wine backbone, and the longer it is since harvest the more is included in the blend (so clearly this is a cuvée that sees multiple bottling episodes). The wine I tasted on my visit in July 2009 was 92% Chardonnay and 8% Chenin Blanc, but later releases may include up to 14% Chenin Blanc.

It is an interesting system Kinglake has developed, although I'm not sure I am in agreement with Kinglake's beliefs about Chardonnay 'falling apart' this way - especially when the style of the wine is so bright, more reminiscent of Chablis than the Languedoc - but I don't have the tasting experience of his own wines that he and his staff must obviously have. One very positive element of this process of course is that it is all about consistency - exactly what modern consumers are perceived to desire. There should be hoards of retailers clamouring to stock these wines. As for the rosé, the creation of this wine was a consequence of circumstances; the intention was to produce a red, but in the first vintage rain resulted in sub-optimal fruit and the harvest was diverted into a rosé instead. The fruit is pressed and then given 90 minutes of skin contact before the juice is removed. Being an admirer of Serge Lalou, a top producer in Sancerre (perhaps unsurprising when we consider the style of not only the Sauvignon Blanc but also the Chardonnay), the wine is fermented using a yeast sourced from the Loire.

Lastly - as far as the still wines are concerned - there are two cuvées of Limoux presented at Begude. The first is a very serviceable Chardonnay-based Limoux, bottled under screwcap, and made for unfussy drinking in a similar vein to the vin de pays cuvées, although obviously the mandatory role of oak means that this is a very different style. Then comes L'Etoile de Begude, a blend made up from selected lots as determined by tasting between March and May after the vintage, although the source is generally the patch of vines directly adjacent to the Kinglakes' house, pictured above. The total volume of production varies somewhat, with 9000 bottles in 2006, just 4000 in 2007 and back up to 8000 in 2008. It sells best in Burgundy, something of a compliment I am sure, and it is included on the wine list at Relais Bernard Loiseau, not bad for a non-Burgundy Chardonnay. In fact I believe it is the only Chardonnay from outside the Burgundy vineyards to be included on the list, so this is something of a coup for Kinglake and his team.

Finally, there is at least one other wine worth mentioning, perhaps two. The last Begude wine is La Folie de Begude, a 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs produced in tiny quantities and intended only for personal consumption. I have to confess I found it stood up very well in comparison to many other sparkling Limoux wines I have tasted, and I would be surprised if the family do not increase production to commercial levels in future years. Finally, although not a Begude wine, Laurent Girault provided an opportunity during my visit to taste his Giroflet, a field-blend produced from Domaine du Péras, his family's vineyards far to the east. Although not part of the Kinglake portfolio, I have included this wine in my notes below.

It is clear to me that James, his wife Catherine, and the newest addition to the family - the couple had a daughter not long after arriving at Begude - have settled into life on the outskirts of Limoux. When I visited, they were hosting family members and other guests, all keen for a slice of the good life in the Languedoc. But it isn't all rest and relaxation. It is obvious that they work hard in the vineyard, and put a lot of thought into the production of a very solid and commercially viable portfolio of wines. The star (apologies, no pun intended) is L'Etoile de Begude, but I have tasted and drank all these wines at my leisure and they all have their good points, more often than not freshness and vivacity being the principal players. I look forward to many future tasting opportunities. (22/9/09)

Contact details:
Address: 11300 Cepie
Telephone: +33 (0) 6 86 05 73 74
Fax: +33 (0) 4 68 69 20 41
Internet: www.domainebegude.com

Domaine Begude - Tasting Notes

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Domaine Begude Sauvignon Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 2008: Harvested in three tries, bringing in fruit at 11º, 11.5º and over 12º, the final blend having 11.4º. Bottled under screwcap. The nose is remarkable - considering many Languedoc Sauvignons are flabby or muted, this is bright and fresh, and is marked by the yellow and green pepper character of methylpyrazines, no doubt related to the earlier harvested fruit. Pithy, lean, although fuller in the midpalate, with a clean and stony style, this is a very good wine that bucks the Languedoc trend for this variety. 15.5/20 (July 2009)

Domaine Begude Chardonnay Le Bel Ange (VdP d'Oc) 2008: A cuvée named for the Kinglakes' daughter. Unusually this cuvée has a varying proportion of Chenin, as explained in my profile above. This is 92% Chardonnay and 8% Chenin Blanc. Bottled under screwcap. It has gentle, restrained yellow fruit on the nose, and plenty of zip beneath it all on the palate. Well balanced fruit, with a clean and fresh style, this has more in keeping with a fresh and fruity Chablis than what we might expect from the Languedoc. Another good wine. 15.5/20 (July 2009)

Domaine Begude Pinot Noir Rosé (VdP d'Oc) 2008: Bottled under screwcap. A salmon pink hue, and notes of cream, strawberry and redcurrant leaf on the nose. Fresh, quite full and crisp on the palate, quite solid in the middle, defined. A short finish. Overall though this is fresh, appealing and it has a little substance. 15.5/20 (July 2009)

Domaine Begude Limoux Chardonnay 2007: Unlike the vin de pays wines which are fermented in steel, this is fermented in oak, according to appellation regulations. Bottled under screwcap. The honeyed oak is apparent on the nose, with elements of citrus, opening out over time to reveal more creamy notes. Fresh on the palate, showing good fruit, and a good creamy style. Full, defined, quite stylish wine, backed up by good acidity. 16+/20 (July 2009)

Domaine Begude Limoux Chardonnay 2006: Bottled under screwcap. A clean, lightly honey-tinged nose here, showing some good fruit. A precise texture on the palate, a lovely weight, fresh and quite reserved in its style. There is minimal oak influence, perhaps showing just a little more in the finish. Overall good, but I prefer the 2007 I think. 15.5+/20 (July 2009)

L'Etoile de Begude 2006: The only still wine in the range bottled under traditional cork, this has a fresh and floral nose, with honey, minerals, pithy citrus fruit and cream. This is lovely on the palate, creamy and yet balanced, with an elegant application of oak, rich but overall stylish. Good stone fruit, punchy character, substantial but no shortage of finesse either. This is really very good. 17+/20 (July 2009)

Domaine Begude Limoux 2000: A wine from the Eden era, before the Kinglakes purchased the property. A mid gold hue. Aromas of tropical fruit, with a fresh, herbal, lemony streak, but some buttery richness also. Rich and slightly oily, with ripe toffee-edged tropical fruit mixed with buttery oak and some grippy wood tannins. It maintains a full and concentrated presence on the palate, through to a rich but lemony finish. Drink now. 15.5/20 (July 2004) Label

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

La Folie de Begude Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay (Vin Mousseux de Qualité) NV: A méthode traditionelle wine made in tiny quantities - just 900 bottles for this year - and not generally for retail. Typically 7-8 g/l sugar after dosage. The nose is fresh, stony, crisply styled, with elements of white fruit and apple peel. Fine aromas. The palate is similarly crisply defined, gently nettly-herby, with just a touch of cream. Clearly defined, with a good dry finish. 16+/20 (July 2009)

As indicated in my profile I have included a wine from Begude's manager and winemaker, Laurent Girault, here.

Domaine du Péras Giroflet (Vin de Table) 2006: Girault's wine is fermented in steel, with an élevage half in steel, half in oak, for 24 months. It is bottled without fining or filtration. Immediately after opening it showed some fascinating character on the nose, with a meaty, animalistic, savage and rustic character, with little in the way of overt fruit other than some plum skin and baked liquorice. There was a little element of raisin to the fruit as well, although paradoxically this was mixed with a fresh and bright chracter on the palate. There was moderate weight, a complex panoply of meaty flavour, nice freshness in terms of middle-weight texture and acidity, and overall this had a good, clean substance and sappy-sour finish. A fascinating wine, which I grew to really appreciate as it opened up. I would recommend decanting for an hour or two. 17+/20 (July 2009)