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Domaine de Baruel
Domaine de Baruel is a successful Languedoc estate, located not far from the village of Durfort, north of Nîmes. For almost a decade this was the haunt of Rainer Pfefferkorn, a German who came to viticulture almost by accident. Pfefferkorn left his career in computers to purchase Domaine de Baruel, but at the time he was more interested in its agricultural potential, and it was not until later that he realised he had also bought 12 hectares of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon vines.
Pfefferkorn ran Domaine de Baruel until 1999, with the 1998 his last vintage at the estate, before Michel and Karine Anfosso took the reins. He left in order to downsize, purchasing a small property with the aim of planting just a few hectares of suitable vines. During his time at Baruel, however, he established a reputation for himself as a source of good quality and interesting wines. There were just two cuvées, both Vin de Pays de Cévennes. The leading wine was Cuvée Fontanilles, a 100% Syrah, and a regular cuvée comprising Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon sold as straight Domaine de Baruel. From 1999 onwards, however, the domaine is under new direction, and new assessment of the wines will be required. The leading cuvée under the new owners now seems to be La Roquebelle, a Syrah-Cabernet blend. (18/10/04)
Contact details:
Address: 30140 Tornac
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 66 77 54 03
Fax: +33 (0) 4 66 77 58 52
Internet:
www.domainebaruel.com
Domaine de Baruel - Tasting Notes
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Domaine de Baruel (VdP des Cevennes) 1998: Dark, almost inky hue.
Quite reticent on the nose for some time, but does gradually yield some smoky,
warm black fruits with a blackcurrant sharpness and a certain sootiness.
Structure and balance on the palate. The Cabernet seems dominant, offering a
little cigar-laced fruit alongside the dry tannic backbone and acidity. Lean in
texture but with a modicum of style. This grows on you. Early on in its drinking
window and really needs further bottle age; will go for five to eight years in
the cellar. 16.5+/20 (October 2004) Label
Domaine de Baruel Cuvée Fontanilles (VdP des Cevennes) 1998: A deep,
inky red-black hue, still showing some youth. A warm and open nose, with lovely
ripe berry, smoke and black pepper notes from this 100% Syrah cuvee. The palate
follows in a similar vein; ripe, full of extract with spicy, dark berry fruit.
Soft and ample texture, underpinned and plenty of structure and sharp acids.
Firm, dry tannic finish with a little length. There is good potential here.
Drink over the next ten years (and beyond I suspect). 16.5+/20 (October 2004) Label
Domaine de Baruel (VdP des Cevennes) 1991: A fine depth of colour for
fifteen years of age, mature but still with plenty of deep red pigment. The nose
is very stylish, with lots of refined, bloody-beefy-iron and mineral character
that is strongly suggestive of claret, and if I had tasted this blind I would
have been very reluctant in straying too far from the Gironde in my attempts to
identify it. Little nuances of black olive, and a quite high-toned, slightly
roasted style, are perhaps not entirely typical. Lovely entry, quite restrained,
revealing a texture of extract through the midpalate, framed in a medium bodied,
fresh style, reserved and well structured. There is a straight, tannic backbone
which shows well on the finish, although it all fades a little quickly. Overall
a really appealing glass of wine, and I only wish I had more bottles of this in
the cellar. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)
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