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Domaine de Baruel

Domaine de Baruel is a successful Languedoc estate, located not far from the village of Durfort, north of Nîmes. For almost a decade this was the haunt of Rainer Pfefferkorn, a German who came to viticulture almost by accident. Pfefferkorn left his career in computers to purchase Domaine de Baruel, but at the time he was more interested in its agricultural potential, and it was not until later that he realised he had also bought 12 hectares of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon vines.

Pfefferkorn ran Domaine de Baruel until 1999, with the 1998 his last vintage at the estate, before Michel and Karine Anfosso took the reins. He left in order to downsize, purchasing a small property with the aim of planting just a few hectares of suitable vines. During his time at Baruel, however, he established a reputation for the estate as a source of good quality and interesting wines. At the end of his tenure there were just two cuvées, both Vin de Pays des Cévennes (Vin de Pays du Gard in the earlier vintages). The leading wine was Cuvée Fontanilles, 100% Syrah, and a regular cuvée comprising Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon sold as straight Domaine de Baruel. From 1999 onwards, however, the domaine is under new direction, and new assessment of the wines will be required. The leading cuvée under the new owners now seems to be La Roquebelle, a Syrah-Cabernet blend. (18/10/04)

Contact details:
Address: 30140 Tornac
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 66 77 54 03
Fax: +33 (0) 4 66 77 58 52
Internet: www.domainebaruel.com

Domaine de Baruel - Tasting Notes

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Domaine de Baruel (VdP des Cévennes) 1998: Dark, almost inky hue. Quite reticent on the nose for some time, but does gradually yield some smoky, warm black fruits with a blackcurrant sharpness and a certain sootiness. Structure and balance on the palate. The Cabernet seems dominant, offering a little cigar-laced fruit alongside the dry tannic backbone and acidity. Lean in texture but with a modicum of style. This grows on you. Early on in its drinking window and really needs further bottle age; will go for five to eight years in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (October 2004) Label

Domaine de Baruel Cuvée Fontanilles (VdP des Cévennes) 1998: A deep, inky red-black hue, still showing some youth. A warm and open nose, with lovely ripe berry, smoke and black pepper notes from this 100% Syrah cuvee. The palate follows in a similar vein; ripe, full of extract with spicy, dark berry fruit. Soft and ample texture, underpinned and plenty of structure and sharp acids. Firm, dry tannic finish with a little length. There is good potential here. Drink over the next ten years (and beyond I suspect). 16.5+/20 (October 2004) Label

Domaine de Baruel (VdP des Cévennes) 1996: It didn't have long in the decanter before tasting, but with a little time it soon showed some appealing iron and blood notes on the nose, which really remained rather withdrawn throughout the evening. Later there came a note of perfume, of violets, but it never really revealed its softer side on the nose or indeed on the palate, where it has a dry, rather savoury character with a firm, slightly peppery core of tannins, beneath rather a stretched out texture and an adequate but not plush veneer of fruit. It has a slightly loose-knit feel to it at present, moderately full and flavoursome, but without the direction or vigour that would really take it to another level. Based on this tasting I would think this is acting a little sullen at present, and although pleasurable now I suspect given three or four years it will be something very different. Nevertheless, it was great with a hearty roast, and perfect for Bordeaux classicists who wish to avoid the plump fruit of modern Bordeaux. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 16.5+/20 (November 2008)

Domaine de Baruel (VdP du Gard) 1991: A fine depth of colour for fifteen years of age, mature but still with plenty of deep red pigment. The nose is very stylish, with lots of refined, bloody-beefy-iron and mineral character that is strongly suggestive of claret, and if I had tasted this blind I would have been very reluctant in straying too far from the Gironde in my attempts to identify it. Little nuances of black olive, and a quite high-toned, slightly roasted style, are perhaps not entirely typical. Lovely entry, quite restrained, revealing a texture of extract through the midpalate, framed in a medium bodied, fresh style, reserved and well structured. There is a straight, tannic backbone which shows well on the finish, although it all fades a little quickly. Overall a really appealing glass of wine, and I only wish I had more bottles of this in the cellar. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)