Vigna Rionda Barolo Parafada 1996: A slightly less dense, although
more vibrant, hue than the basic Barolo from this estate (tasted last week). An exotic, enticing
nose, densely perfumed, full of parma violets over a layer of liquorice and
cigar box with notes of black fruits and oak. Most impressive on the palate is
the lush, wanton texture and warm, rounded mouthfeel. Sweet, ripe black fruit
and liquorice flavours. Balanced, quite fluid, despite a firm structure. It
needs food at present, but a better option would be to squirrel it away for some
time. It has a firm core of tannin which will see it improve in the cellar for
five years at least. 16.5+/20 (11/8/03)