Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 1997: This wine offers
plenty of 'wow' factor as it is poured. The colour impresses, it being a typically
youthful, deep red wine, with just a tinge of purple, but it is the nose that excites.
It offers so much character, with aromas of black olives, lead-pencil
shavings, mineral edged black fruits with a cassis edge, and a tarry,
cigar-box, smoky elegance which pleases no end. This rich display is
continued on the palate, which has sweet and spicy fruit, with a full
weight and rich, fat texture, cut through by a healthy presence of ripe
tannins which very much dominate towards the endpalate. The acidity is
fairly low, but this makes the wine all the more approachable.
Nevertheless, I don't think I would broach another bottle for two or
three years. Although from a weaker vintage, the team at Sociando-Mallet have
crafted a stunner here.
Excellent.
(17/5/02)