Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer Oberer Weingarten 1993

Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer Oberer Weingarten 1993: A lemon gold wine, giving no clue to the pleasure that follows. A maturing Gewurz' nose, with wisps of smoke, bacon and ripe, juicy pineapple. There is a wonderful balance on entry, a feature that persists through the palate. Despite the rich, classically oily texture this remains such an elegant wine, thanks to the balance of flavour, acidity and rich residual sugar. There is a fleshy edge giving immediate reward, though, together with notes of spice. Superb drinking. 17.5/20 (13/8/01)