Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling
Auslese 1998: Good, lemon-golden colour, with a few bubbles of
residual carbon dioxide. The nose has honeyed tropical fruits and candied peel,
and although very pleasing, gives only a suggestion of the pleasures to come. On
entry the palate immediately impresses with its carbon dioxide spritz and fine
acidity. Then the texture and flavour march in, and very impressive they are
too. Candied peel, honey and tropical fruits dominate the flavour profile, and
the texture is glorious. Rich, creamy, hedonistic, almost oily on the finish, but never for one second unbalanced.
Firm, upright and structured are more apt descriptors. There is plenty of
length, which is filled with recurring waves of flavour. A superb effort from
this under-rated domaine. 19/20
AP Nr. 4 379 043 06 99
(27/5/02)