Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d'Alba 1997: An appealing
colour, garnet red, only moderate intensity, and showing some maturity at the
rim. An evolved, open nose, of well hung game, a touch of undergrowth and
leather, and some peppery, macerated blackberry fruit, over a layer of mature,
integrating, well-used oak.
Quite apparent acidity on entry, supporting a medium body with a thin seam of
tannin. A lean texture, with flavours of dark macerated fruits. Plenty of
tannins on the finish. These need a little time to integrate, but the wine lacks
the concentration necessary for long ageing. Drink now with food, or cellar for
two to three years more. 16/20
(21/7/03)