Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 2003:
A fairly deep, youthful cherry red hue. Rather closed on the nose at first,
slowly yielding stony, cherry pit aromas. A nice, medium bodied approach, and
showing real depth through the midpalate, where the old vine quality really
shows. This has a lovely, seamless presence, with delightful balance, tied up
with a complex array of mineral and tobacco character that seems to swirl in the
depths of the wine, never showing itself until the finish, when it comes forth
in a flurry of flavour and structure. Very fine. Although drinking now, I
suspect this would age well over 5-6 years at least. 17.5+/20
(26/6/06)