Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva 'Rancia' 1994

Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva 'Rancia' 1994: A fading red hue, a touch tawny at the rim, but with no other sign of age. Grilled meats on the nose, with chalky, smoky, firm berry fruit. There's also a suggestion of volatile acids. The palate is medium bodied, with a sweet, rounded texture, together with some intense, freshly acidic fruit. Lovely, firm tannins, more apparent on the finish, giving great structure. Delicious, stylish stuff, that has come together really well since I last tasted it, and it gets better with every glass. 18/20 (9/9/02)