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Bodegas Castaño Infierno 1999: Yecla is a wine region
on the East Mediterranean coast of Spain, which
is gaining a reputation as a source of some good value, clean,
fruity and technically correct wines. This is a change from the
region's output in the past, which was typified by rustic, high
alcohol reds, frequently with more than a touch of oxidation,
evidence of poor winemaking. This is one of the new style of wines,
a novel blend of Mourvèdre (Monastrell) and Merlot, which works
well. It has a smoke, blackberry and blueberry fruit nose, with and
edge of spiced meats and chocolate. There are soft, slightly grainy
tannins on the palate, with firm, fresh acidity. The texture is good
but not as luscious as the nose (or label!) might suggest, although
there's plenty of flavour, with smoke, berry fruit, chocolate and a
classic fruitcake edge. Straightforward, attractive, but very enjoyable. 16.5/20
(2/4/02)

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