Home > Producer Profiles > Italian Profiles > Tedeschi

Tedeschi

The wines of Valpolicella are, without doubt, quite unique. These are not wines made in the international style; here we have not only indigenous grape varieties, these being Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara to name just four, but also indigenous practices. The technique of drying the harvested grapes is not limited to this region of north-eastern Italy, of course, as many Italian and other southern European winemakers employ this method, it being a practice almost as old as winemaking itself, as I discussed in my recent article on wines made from dried grapes. It is notable, however, that Amarone della Valpolicella is the only mainstream style where the wines are fermented to dryness, yielding deeply coloured and concentrated wines, rich in character (and often rich in alcohol, too). The ripasso method, utilising the drained but unpressed must of an Amarone, providing some kick to a more basic wine, is also peculiar to the region. And whilst there are many high quality producers in the region, one could do much worse than come to Tedeschi to taste all of these styles.

The Tedeschi family have been here for two centuries if not longer, with the family business formally established by Nicolò Tedeschi in 1824. Four generations have followed on, starting with local characters Lorenzo and then Riccardo; the latter Tedeschi was particularly wise in his vineyard purchases, bringing the Monte Fontana and Monte Olmi vineyards to the family portfolio in 1918. Riccardo's sons, Silvino and Renzo, have been in control during much of the the Twentieth Century, with the former tending the vines, the latter making the wine. Renzo remains principal Tedeschi today, assisted by his own children, Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo. The family cultivate 67 ha of vines, of which 22 ha are owned and 45 ha are rented, located in the central Valpolicella Classico region. To the south is Verona, and to the north are the Lessinia Mountains, with foothills which stretch southwards in three long ridges, dividing the Valpolicella DOC region up into a series of peaks and valleys running north-south. These are the Negrar, Marano and Fumane valleys, formed by the streams and rivers running down from the mountains, tributaries of the Adige. On the most favourable slopes of these foothills, on varying terroirs of limestone and basalt, on clay or volcanic soils, and with typical altitude of 130-250 m, the Tedeschi vineyards are to be found.

The harvested fruit from these vineyards, which are planted at a rather lackadaisical 3000 plants/ha at most, is handled at the Tedeschi winery, which is located in Pedemonte. Here those grapes destined for Amarone and Recioto are dried, using both the traditional method as well as two purpose-built drying rooms, whilst those earmarked for straight Valpolicella and other wines are destemmed and pressed before fermentation. There is both French and Slavonic oak in the barrel room, where the finishing touches are put to an extensive portfolio of wines. The three most successful wines produced here are:

• Amarone della Valpolicella Classico: A classic blend of 30% each Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, with the remaining 10% Molinara and other minor varieties. This is hand-harvested fruit from 20 year old vines within the Valpoicella Classico DOC.
• Amarone Capitel Monte Olmi: A single vineyard wine, located in Pedemonte, and purchased by Riccardo Tedeschi in 1918. Also average 20 year old vines, but harder pruning for lower yields here. The blend is as for the straight Amarone Classico.
• Recioto Capitel Monte Fontana: Another Riccardo purchase, vines 25 years of age, blend as above. The sweetness is ensured by halting the fermentation.

Although these might be regarded as the flagship wines, there are many others worthy of mention, not only because they can offer good drinking and good value, but also because of their financial significance. In terms of volume of sales, the Amarone and Recioto form only a tiny part of the picture. These other wines include the Capitel San Rocco, a ripasso IGT, good Valpolicella Classico Superiore and in the Fabriseria range, a famed white Recioto Vin de la Fabriseria, a blend of 90% Garganega and 10% Saorin, which can be excellent.

On a personal level, I have found some Tedeschi wines I have tasted in the past to be stunning, with the memory of the 1998 Amarone Capitel Monte Olmi burned onto my vinous memory forever. I have exact recall of where and when I tasted it; what food I was eating with it, what day of the week it was, even where I was sitting. There are not many wines that have this degree of impact. Others, however, are merely good, but I suppose within any range of wines from an individual producer, there will always be the mediocre and the downright failures to counterbalance the successes. My most recent tasting, with Riccardo Tedeschi (the modern incarnation) did not evoke the memory of the 1998 Monte Olmi, but it did demonstrate some sound examples of the wines of Valpolicella. (28/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: 37020 San Pietro in Cariano
Telephone: +39 045 770 1487
Internet: www.tedeschiwines.com

Tedeschi - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Capitel San Rocco 2003: A very meaty, feral, animalistic nose here. Midweight palate, rather coarse, with only a moderate coating of fruit over some rather rustic, slightly bitter tannin. More animalistic character on the palate too. Drinkable. 14.5/20 (November 2005)

Tedeschi Rosso La Fabriseria 2003: This includes a tiny percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Corvina and Rondinella. A slightly deeper colour than the Capitel San Rocco, and certainly much purer fruit on the nose. Good character here, midweight, slightly creamy texture, quite rich. Red fruits with an appealing, bitter chocolate edge. Some nice, ripe tannin. Good. 16/20 (November 2005)

Tedeschi Recioto Classico Monte Fontana 2003: Another deep, dark wine. A simply gorgeous, intense display on the nose, aromas like the pure essence of berry fruits. Full, concentrated palate, rich and showing lots of appropriate extract. There is a little high-toned edge to the fruit at present, backed up by piles of tannin and moderate acidity. This displays the heat of the vintage, and is just lovely. Needs five years minimum. 18/20 (November 2005)

Tedeschi Amarone Classico 2001: A moderate colour, and slightly meaty fruit on the nose. No surprises then on the palate, which demonstrates a big, meaty style very well structured, creamy with lots of Amarone style. Very full. For an entry-level example of the type this is very good indeed. 16/20 (November 2005)

Tedeschi Amarone Classico Capitel Monte Olmi 2001: Single vineyard Amarone; deeply coloured, rather dense looking wine. Quite closed on the nose, but the palate is rich, creamy and textured with fine, grainy tannins. Great structure and some lovely bitter chocolate character again, also with a red fruit profile. Very primary and simple at present, perhaps a dumb phase on the nose, but this should be excellent with time I think. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998: A deep, glossy looking red-garnet hue. Great typicity on the nose, which offers aromas of black cherry, almonds and very fine dark chocolate. A commanding palate, with a very classic texture, rich yet smooth with a good length Good extract, a depth of fruit, cigar and chocolate nuances, all supported by very correct tannins. There is potential for three to five years development in the cellar here. 17/20 (March 2003) Label

Tedeschi Amarone Capitel Monte Olmi 1998: A dark, purple-black hued wine, with an enticing and exotic nose. Aromas of dark chocolate, super-ripe summer berries, pickling spices, beetroot and more. Wonderful texture apparent on entry, which carries this wines 15% alcohol extremely well. Ripe tannins and firm acidity match up to the depth of spicy fruits very well. A superb wine, destined for improvement in bottle, but approachable now for those who enjoy wine at this stage. 18+/20 (March 2003) Label

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Rosso Vino di Ripasso 1997: A tavola wine which has been passed over the lees of a Recioto or Amarone wine, with the intention that the slight refermentation should bring some complexity. This example seems quite closed on the nose, but has a good weight and texture on the palate. Richly fruited with good tannins, this wine may well yet improve. 15.5+/20 (December 2000)

Tedeschi Rosso La Fabriseria 1997: A lovely colour. Red fruits, tobacco and smoke on the nose, with a sheen of oak. Nicely balanced fruit and acidity on the palate, with a nice texture. 16.5+/20 (December 2000)

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1995: This is Tedeschi's basic Amarone, their premium cuvées being Monte Olmi, Monte Fontana and La Fabriseria. It has rich fruit on the nose. A rich and mouthfilling palate, with lots of nicely textured fruit and tannins that are yet to soften. 16.5+/20 (December 2000)