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Planeta

With almost all of the great wine estates I feature, there is a history to examine. Especially with the Old World; some Burgundian and German estates have histories approaching a thousand years. Bordeaux has a few centuries; more if looking outside the Médoc. And in Italy, the same is largely true. Allegrini was digging irrigation channels in 1557; Pio Cesare was established in 1881; Giovanni di Pieri Antinori was registered with his local Guild of Winemakers in 1385. But these are all estates in the classic, long-established regions of northern Italy, of course. Move further south, and we have a vinous revolution on our hands. Italy's south has a hot climate which, with the right attitude, can be perfect for viticulture. Planeta is just one winery that has risen from the dust to stake a claim as Sicily's leading producer. Their history? Just ten years so far....

Planeta is a family name; the three principle players are Alessio, Francesca and Santi, assisted by oenologist Carlo Corino. Although the Planeta family have a local history as far as agriculture, they are new to viticulture on the current scale. In a very short space of time they have built up a veritable empire of four vineyard sites totalling over 60 ha, together with two wineries, dotted along Sicily's south coast and linked by one road; Statale 115.

The Ulmo winery was their first venture. Built in 1995 near Sambuca di Sicilia, this is where the family now concentrate on white wines, principally Chardonnay and Fiano, but other varieties also. The wines include Segreta Bianco (a blend), Alastro (50/50 Chardonnay & Fiano), Cometa (Fiano) and Chardonnay, the wine that brought Planeta worldwide attention. There are also fine tasting rooms here, based in a nearby 16th Century country house, plenty of vineyards and an ancient olive grove. They then moved on to build the Dispensa winery, close to the wine town of Menfi and somewhat nearer the coast, in 2001. Here the family concentrate on their red wines, and the winery is encircled by Planeta's largest vineyard. The wines include the Segreta Rosso (a blend), as well as the Merlot, Syrah and Burdese, a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. There are also vineyards further east at Noto in Syracuse, where there are 40 ha of Nero d'Avola and Moscato - for Santa Cecilia and Moscato di Noto, and at the family homestead at Dorilli in Acate. Here they planted 17 ha - subsequently expanded to 37 ha - of Nero d'Avola and Frappato, an indigenous red variety, for Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

I first encountered the fledgling Planeta with the 1995 Chardonnay, an excellent wine which was garnering much praise at the time. I thought it very good indeed, and the same can be said of my tasting of the 2003, as well as many of the other cuvées produced. The Santa Cecilia and Cometa wines are very worthwhile indeed; superb wines made using indigenous varieties. History or not, Planeta is a name to be reckoned with. (2/3/05)

Contact details:
Address: Contrada Dispensa, 92013 Menfi
Telephone: +39 0925 80009
Fax: +39 0925 80072
Internet: www.planeta.it

Planeta - Tasting Notes

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Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2007: A blend of Chardonnay, Fiano, Grecanico, Sauvignon and Viognier, bottled under screwcap. This has a pile of vanillin oak on the nose, and the palate follows on in a full, rich fat style, with a low level of acidity. It starts off quite unfocused, but peppery acidity in the midpalate helps a little. It is rather dominated by the oak and I suspect this wine would be best drunk young. From an Enotria tasting. 14/20 (February 2009)

Planeta Cometa 2007: This is 100% Fiano, an indigenous Sicilian variety. It has gloriously open fruit on the nose, with a rich, crystalline, pear-like character. The palate is also hugely distinctive, with flavours of white flower petals, pears, apricots and acacia. Even a hint of lychee I fancy, backed up by nice acidity and minerals. This is delicious wine which will please many. From an Enotria tasting. 17/20 (February 2009)

Planeta La Segreta Rosso 2007: This is 20% Merlot, 60% Nero d'Avola and 20% Syrah, fermented in steel and aged in cuve and old wood, and intended for drinking young. It has an interesting nose, of liquorice, raspberry, cherry and a touch of cola. Warm roasted herbs on the palate, sweet and fat, confected fruit, but with a nice, firm grip beneath. A plump and easy drinking style overall though. From an Enotria tasting. 15/20 (February 2009)

Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2007: This wine is 40% Frappato and 60% Nero d'Avola, destemmed and fermented in steel, and bottled the following spring. It has a very unusual nose of sweet, honeyed, medicated cherry fruit. Full, slightly creamy, sweet fruit, herby and medicated as on the nose, with a soft fruit texture swamping the structure. A soft grip at best. It doesn't appeal greatly. From an Enotria tasting. 13/20 (February 2009)

Planeta Cometa 2004: A bottle purchased in Valvona & Crolla, and downed over lunch in the associated cafe. An 'absolute cracker', quipped the guy on the wine counter as he handed over the bottle, who clearly thought this a good choice. A little warmer than I would have liked, but not too warm to appreciate. A really very deeply coloured, golden wine. Rich, candied fruit on the nose, with a backbone of honey and oak. The palate is rich, full and firm and quickly reveals a real kick through the midpalate. There is a firm, tongue-furring presence of alcohol, and the label reveals 14.5%, which is certainly quite tangible. There is good acidity, but it doesn't have any freshness. In fact it develops quite a tannic grip, probably oak derived towards the finish, and it really has the structure of a red wine. I think this will make some swoon with delight. I find it impressive, and yet unbalanced and lacking vigour. Tasted at Valvona & Crolla. 14/20 (April 2007)

Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2003: A blend of Greciano, Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Served a little too cold. Very fresh, plump, mineral and floral white fruit nose. A touch lean on the palate, but clean and balanced, with floral freshness leading to a refreshing finish. Good. Drink now. 15/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Chardonnay 2003: A honey-buttery style on the nose, but with evidence of freshness. But again served too cold. Nevertheless expressive; big, rich and stylish. Delicious honeycomb and cinder toffee notes, but cut through with a clean lemon and herb incisiveness. Nutty finish, with twists of pepper and spice. Lovely. Should improve in the short term. 17.5+/20 (November 2004)

Planeta La Segreta Rosso 2003: Predominantly Nero d'Avola, with Merlot and Syrah. Ripe, herbal, berry fruit. Rounded palate, creamy, with a herby-stony-mineral character. Burnt, charred, meaty notes. Big, soft, fruit-rich style but with a grippy-spicy tannin backbone. Good, and should show some short-term improvement. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2003: A blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato, a light, red grape, from the Dorilli vineyards. Good colour on inspection. Cherry-berry red fruits on the nose, with a soft and fruity palate. Beneath there lies a chalky, tannic structure, which is well integrated with the medicinal fruit. Easy quaffing, Beaujolais-style wine. Good. 15/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Merlot 2002: A good, dark colour. A little closed on the nose, but there is some dark, spicy fruit here. Big, creamy and svelte; soft and seductive fruits wrapped around a core of ripe tannin. Good acid structure. Plenty of tannins in the finish but in balance on the palate. This needs time - three to four years. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2002: Often regarded as the flagship wine. 100% Nero d'Avola. Rather closed on the nose. Some mineral perfume. Rich and creamy, svelte, with a wealth of tasteful red and black fruits. Ripe tannins, excellent balance. Great length. Another that needs time - three to four years again. 17+/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Syrah 2002: Sweet, primary, red-black fruits, typical perfume of young Syrah, but like the others a little shy on the nose. Full, creamy, with the sweetness of burnt sugar. Packed with extract and tannin. Lovely structure and a weighty concentration. Big, sweetly ripe finish. Also needs three to four years. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)

Planeta Cometa 2001: It's good to see Planeta working with indigenous Sicilian varieties - in this case Fiano - as well as the international varieties with which they first drew attention to themselves. There is a delightful nose here, rich with tropical fruits with a pine nut and citrus edge. Full bodied on the palate, packed with fruit, and low but sufficient acidity. A very clean, pure style, resembling a turbo-charged Condrieu! The price tag also resembles Condrieu. Nevertheless, most impressive. 17/20 (October 2002)

Planeta Santa Cecilia 1998: This wine has a wonderful vibrancy in the glass, with a red-purple centre fading out to a bright red rim. Crushed summer fruits greet you on the nose, led by black cherries, followed up by some toasted, vanillin oak. There is a rich and earthy character to the nose, with a nuance of black pepper. Supple, ripe and rounded tannins, with well-balanced barely noticeable acidity and a silky texture make for an elegant mouth-feel. There are spicy black fruits and a strong, earthy edge to the wine coming through on the medium-full palate also. The smooth texture persists through the finish, culminating in a spice-laden length. 17/20 (March 2002)

Planeta Chardonnay 1995: The colour is a rich, luscious gold - the intensity of which is quite remarkable. On the nose there are heady aromas of vanillin and spicy oak, and tropical fruits. Very promising. It has a delicious mouth-feel. Good glycerol/alcohol chewy texture. Tropical fruits with spicy, coconut, oaky notes. Delicious complexity from the oak, but slightly over done, making the wine a little unbalanced. Finish good, decent length. Enjoyable, and certainly a wine worth experiencing. 16.5/20 (May 2000)