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Pio Cesare

In case you were wondering, there is no Pio Cesare. The name of this estate is derived from the name of its founder, Cesare Pio, who set up this now long established family business in 1881. It remains in the family, with Pio Boffa, the great grandson of the founder, at the helm. Pio Cesare has worked with local growers for generations, but in more recent years they have also purchased some vineyards of their own for the production of Barolo and Barbaresco crus. Pio Boffa has also been responsible for some modernisations in the cantine. The overall ethos is one of minimal intervention, with maceration, oak contact and other variables carefully tailored to the individual wine.

Today Pio Boffa owns almost 45 ha of vineyards, a large holding for the region which is dominated by small family firms owning small plots of land. The two Pio Cesare Barolo cuvées are the most significant; a single vineyard wine, Barolo Ornato, from a family-owned site near Serralunga d’Alba. First produced in 1985, this cuvée is only released when the quality of the harvest is high. This site is also a source of fruit for the straight Barolo cuvée, together with Castigion Falletto and Monforte. Fermentation is at 25-26ºC, with maceration up to 26 days, and ageing in Slovenian oak.

Equally there are two Barbaresco cuvées; a single vineyard wine Il Bricco, from a site near Treiso. Like the Barolo Ornato this wine is released only in the better vintages, with the first release being 1990. Fruit not used for Il Bricco is blended in the straight Barbaresco, together with that from near Barbaresco itself and San Rocco Sen d’Elvio. There are two cuvées of Barbera along a similar lines; Barbera Fides, from a site near the Ornato vineyard, was created in the early 1990s. This sees some time in French oak, whereas the basic Barbera d’Alba, a blend of fruit from a variety of local vineyards, ages in Yugoslavian oak as well. The range is completed by a Dolcetto, l’Altro Chardonnay and Gavi. (3/3/05)

Contact details:
Address: Pio Cesare Aziendo Agricola, 12051 Alba
Telephone: +39 0173 440 386
Fax: +39 0173 363680
Internet: www.piocesare.it

Pio Cesare - Tasting Notes

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Pio Cesare Gavi 2003: Fresh, with lime fruit and stony minerals on the nose. Some confected fruit notes on the palate, with crisp acidity. Fresh, clean, fairly neutral in fact. Short finish. 14/20 (November 2004)

Pio Cesare l'Altro Chardonnay 2003: Buttery-lemony oak-influenced nose. Full palate, clean, with subtle honey-oak. There is a touch of fatness to the mouthfeel, with good flavour and decent acidity. Nice lemon-herbal-stony notes. Some good flavours here, but focus could be better though. 15/20 (November 2004)

Pio Cesare Barbera d'Alba 2002: Decent fruit. Stylish, old-school nose. A little peppery meatiness. Smooth integration on the palate, rounded and soft, with just a little tannin showing on the finish. This has good style. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba 2001: Showing some age here. Gamey. Hung pheasant aroma, with floral, chalky, talc side notes. Soft, integrated palate. Slightly oily. Firm, midpalate tannins. Drinking now though. Good. 16/20 (May 2005)

Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba 2000: Just a moderate intensity of colour to this wine, which has a ruby hue with an orange-pink tinge. The nose offers aromas of rose petal tobacco and roasted fruits, and with some air it takes on a haunting, captivating elegance. Lovely balance on the palate, which has spicy fruit, with a leathery edge, backed up by some ripe and spicy tannins. Firm, tingling acidity keeps the wine fresh. Elegance with a touch of power. Nevertheless, it's showing some evidence of maturity, and I would advise drinking now or over the next few years. 16.5/20 (July 2003) Label

Pio Cesare Barbaresco 1999: Fairly closed nose, a little meaty, with some classic Nebbiolo notes. Smoothly integrated again, still quite a primary flavour profile, with a very good tannic structure. Classic style, becoming big and flavoursome with a little time. Needs eight years at least. 16+/20 (November 2004)

Pio Cesare Barolo 1999: Perfumed, exotic nose. A more expansive, fluid palate than the Barbaresco. Creamy, svelte feel, backed up by a richness of tannin which shows well in the finish. But balanced and harmonious, despite this firm backbone. This is very stylish indeed. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)

Pio Cesare Barolo 1997: A good colour here, fairly dense, with a tinge of orange-earthy maturity to what is otherwise a vibrantly coloured wine. A complex nose, with truffle oil, mushrooms, five spice and slightly woody black fruits. A delicious palate, as it has fine balance apparent immediately on entry, combined with some body and texture. Flavours of macerated red and black fruits, tar, hung game and rose petals, backed up by some firm, woody tannins, and quite appropriate acidity. This is a fluid, complete and harmonious wine. 17+/20 (July 2003) Label