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Marchesi di Grésy

The vineyards of Marchesi di Grésy have an ancient history; those that surround Villa Giulia, the family's hunting lodge on the Monte Aribaldo date back to Roman times. The di Grésy family also have a history in the region, one that includes viticulture, although it wasn't until the early 1970's that the family business underwent the metamorphosis that produced Marchesi di Grésy as we know it today. That evolution was down to Alberto di Grésy.

Alberto di Grésy was Milanese, and graduated from the Bocconi University with a Doctorate in Business Administration. During his student days he spent much time at Villa Giulia, the lodge built by his grandfather in the 19th Century. On the family estate there was agriculture and viticulture, although the grapes grown were sold off, as they had been for generations. It was Alberto that developed the business of the estate, moving from selling their grapes to local producers to vinification and bottling their own wines, beginning in 1973. Since then the family estate has expanded somewhat, with the purchase of vineyards at Martinenga and La Serra. At the original Monte Aribaldo estate in Treiso d'Alba there are now Dolcetto and Chardonnay vineyards, whilst the portfolio front-runners are made at the Martinenga estate, where the vineyards are primarily Nebbiolo, with Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon, together with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. At La Serra, the di Grésy family are fully occupied with the production of Moscato d'Asti.

Although the first di Grésy foothold in Piedmont was undoubtedly the Monte Aribaldo estate, it is the Martinenga vineyards that now have most significance. The buildings here are surrounded by vineyards that radiate outward, the majority being the Martinenga vineyard itself, which stretches up the hillside to the east at 280 m above sea level (catching the sun in the picture above), although at the western end are vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon (here in the shade) as well as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (down by the river). From the Nebbiolo vineyards come the three most significant di Grésy wines, all Barbaresco; Martinenga, Camp Gros and Gaiun. The vineyard lies over 11 ha of Piedmontese hillside with a predominantly southern exposure, with soils of desirable blue marl. The majority of Nebbiolo harvested goes towards the Barbaresco Martinenga, with the northernmost vines of two blocks at the eastern end earmarked for Barbaresco Camp Gros, and a plot for the Barbaresco Gaiun sandwiched between the estate buildings and the Chardonnay vineyard. All of the three main Barbaresco's see temperature-controlled fermentation with some plunging of the cap during the last five or so days, followed by malolactic. The Martinenga is initially aged in French 225 litre barriques for six months, followed by Slovenian oak casks of a massive 5000 litre capacity for fourteen months, before ten months in bottle. The Camp Gros is managed in much the same way, although finishing with 2500 litre oak casks, whereas the Barbaresco Gaiun, produced only in select vintages, sees a whopping twenty months in French oak. The di Grésy portfolio does not, however, end with a few bottles of Barbaresco. There are also local 'traditional' styles, such as Barbera and Dolcetto d'Alba, sitting with bottles which are much more international in style, such as a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (individually, as well as blended), and a varietal Merlot.

In October 2004 I dined with Jeff Chilcott, the New Zealand-born winemaker at Marchesi di Grésy. The evening was memorable for a number of occasions. Firstly, there was no dessert wine, thanks to a cock-up at the wholesalers who had sent along the wrong bottles. Promised a bottle by Jeff Chilcott, I gave up hope when, after several weeks, it never materialised. But a month or two later I found a bottle which had been thrown over the side-gate, heaven only knows how long it had lain there. Fortunately it survived, despite being thrown over a fence onto flags, and having weathered the elements for what must have been weeks (the packaging was beginning to look pretty tatty). Secondly, the wines were, on the whole, not top-flight; in this instance, my tasting notes speak for me. Lastly, although I think I typed the notes up soon after, I then forgot about them; this has led to the delay in publishing them, which I hope you will forgive. (24/11/05)

Contact details:
Address: Via Rabajà 43, Barbaresco
Telephone: +39 0173 635221
Fax: +39 0173 635187
Internet: www.marchesidigresy.com

Marchesi di Grésy - Tasting Notes

Found in my garden, and tasted, in February 2005. Click to locate stockists:

Marchesi di Grésy L'Altro Moscato Passito 2000: Having missed out on this wine at a dinner with the Marchesi di Gresy winemaker, this was delivered to my home by the unusual technique of throwing it over the garden fence. Surprisingly, the bottle survived. Passito of course refers to the drying of the grapes prior to fermentation. Quite a rich, golden colour. It has a delightfully aromatic, musky, wood-spice, pineapple nose. Full, weighty, yet fresh with nicely balanced acidity on entry. And through the midpalate it becomes a little more expansive, more full, but maintaining brilliant freshness too. It has a rich, grapey sweetness characteristic of this variety, and considerable length following a clean finish. This is very good indeed. 17.5/20

Tasted in October 2004 with winemaker Jeff Chilcott:

Marchesi di Grésy Prosecco Frizante Spago Domenico de Bertoil NV: With crostini and olives. Fresh, with plenty of fruit. Good petillance. Just a subtle touch of sweetness. Quite refreshing. Good. 14.5/20

Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Sauvignon Blanc 2001: Delightful nose, full of ripe character, with capsicum and green vegetable notes. Full, mouthfilling style, laden with ripe vegetable and fruit notes on the palate, balanced by fairly crisp acidity. Good weight for this variety. A success. 16/20

Marchesi di Grésy Monte Colombo Barbera d'Asti 2001: Deep colour. Very international style indeed, full of black fruits with obvious oak influence. The characteristics found on the nose persist on the palate, which has low acidity together with a soft, round, slightly soupy mouthfeel, evident oak and ripe fruit. I'm not in favour of this barrique-influenced international style which could be Australian rather than Italian. 13/20

Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Camp Gros 1997: Good colour. Much less oak evident here when compared with the Barbera. Much more classic style on the nose and palate, with dark fruit, firm tannins and classic texture. Nevertheless there is still an oak influence here, but at the sort of level that would integrate as this wine matures. Still some puppy fat to be shed here, but there is potential. Should improve over the next eight to ten years. 15.5+/20

Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Camp Gros 1990: Lovely colour, showing maturity at the rim. Quite a spirity nose though, alongside notes of autumnal fruits. Well composed palate, not quite seamless, with well balanced fruit and soft tannins, but that spirity note again. Certainly showing some attractive maturity, but didn't benefit from being poured straight after opening I think; it amazes me that the winemaker would want to show his wines in this way. May well show less spirit and more subtle complexities with some decanter time, and would warrant a higher score. 15.5/20

Tasted in September 2004:

Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga 1998: Lovely moderate red colour, with a faint orange tinge. Classic floral yet tarry nose, with a mix of forest berry fruit. Lovely texture, classic Nebbiolo, cut through by firm tannins. Very good with food now, but would improve in the cellar for a decade if not more. Tasted at the London Carriage Works. 16.5+/20