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Fontodi

I stood at the summit of the Fontodi driveway, which makes the short ascent from the road heading south out of Panzano in Chianti, and drank in the vista of vines and olive trees before me. It had been an hour's journey by car to Panzano, and perhaps another half-hour before my search for the estate - easy to find, when you know where it is, of course - bore fruit. But it had been worth it; the view alone was sufficient payback for the 90 minutes behind the wheel (although a subsequent tasting of the wines certainly helped as well). I was looking across to the conca d'oro, the 'golden shell' of vines that sits on the south-facing slopes that run around in an arc beneath the watchful gaze of the hilltop-houses of Panzano (as shown below). Much of what lay before me in this perfect spot belongs to Fontodi, and as I looked and listened the house of Fontodi proprietor Giovanni Manetti was pointed out, nestling among the vines. And beyond that....the house of his brother. And beyond that....the house of his sister. The Manetti family may seem like relative newcomers to wine, especially when their tenure - mere decades long - is viewed against Chianti's long and well documented history, but there is no denying that this little island of viticulture is their dominion.

The Fontodi estate is located very close to Panzano, almost at the centre of the Chianti Classico region. Like Fèlsina, which claims an Etruscan (in other words, pre-Roman) origin for its name, Fontodi also has a long history; vines have been cultivated here since at least the time of the Roman empire, and documents prove there was vinification here as far back as the 16th century, at a farmhouse then referred to as Case Via. The current owners, the Manetti family, also have many centuries of history in the Chianti region, although not with viticulture. For three hundred years this family has been renowned for the manufacture of terracotta products, especially the tiles which grace so many of the rural buildings across Tuscany. It was not until much more recently, in 1968 in fact, that the family decided to move into wine with the purchase of the Fontodi estate.

The Manetti Family

It was Dino Manetti who made the purchase, although today it is the next generation, in the shape of the aforementioned Giovanni, who is in charge. His first involvement in the family winery was in 1979, and before long he had hired Franco Bernabei as consultant. Today Bernabei is highly regarded within the Chianti region, perhaps with a reputation for favouring the traditional over the modern, and his name has been associated with a number of leading estates including not only Fontodi but also Fèlsina and Molino di Grace. Together Giovanni and Franco have transformed Fontodi, modifying and improving the estate as required and shaping the portfolio of wines into one that includes not one but two world class expressions of the Chianti style (even if they are not both officially designated as Chianti).

When I first profiled Fontodi I wrote of the construction of an ultra-modern cantina, completed in 1998, as a most significant and recent development. Upon my most recent visit in 2011 I was not surprised to see there has been no let up in progress or development here; giant cranes towered over the Fontodi estate, as workmen scurried like ants over the new cellars that were gradually emerging from the landscape. The Manetti family clearly have no shortage of vision, and no problem with producing the required funds for such extensive investment it seems.

Vineyards

The Manetti family own 80 hectares of vineyards alongside of which they also have 30 hectares of olive trees. The vines are concentrated in the aforementioned conca d'oro, an amphitheatre which lies on the south side of the ridge which runs roughly from north-west to south-east through Panzano in Chianti, the town which overlooks the vines. This gives the vines a generally south to south-west facing position, although minor ridges and gulleys in the landscape can also have some influence on this. Nevertheless, the vines benefit from the warming sun during the day, unlike those planted on the cooler slopes to the north of the ridge, while the nights bring a refreshing cooling of the air, aided by the altitude here which is between 350 and 450 metres above sea level. Thus the wines maintain the freshness and definition that is so important for Sangiovese. Underfoot the soils are the classic galestro of the region, a relatively pale schist or shale-like rock, and there is also some marl.

The varieties planted are, only naturally, dominated by Sangiovese, which accounts for 90% of the vineyard, the remaining 10% a mix of international red varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but also Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Malvasia and - very surprisingly, I thought - Sauvignon Blanc. They are tended using organic methods, this being the Manetti philosophy since 1990, and since 2000 this includes the use of manure from their own herd of Chianina cattle as organic compost, usually mixed in with vine cuttings. This particular breed, which possesses a white hide and a broad and visually striking set of horns, is unique to the region, and centuries ago they were widely used in the vineyards in place of the horse which lacked the required stamina. And while their compost feeds the vines, the meat they yield once slaughtered is sold to a very popular butcher in Panzano, I'm told.

Vinification

The fermentations are carried out in the winery completed in 1998; following harvesting by hand the fruit is sorted before entering the upper end of the hillside winery, which it travels through by gravity, first to the fermentation area on the first floor, later to the barrel cellar which is on the floor below. The Sangiovese is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, regulated to between 20 and 30ºC, with punching down of the cap (which replaced pumping over with the 1996 vintage) to increase extraction. Meanwhile both the Syrah and the Pinot Noir are fermented in wood, using large Alliers vats now over ten years old. Once finished the fermented fruit is pressed, and the marc of skins and pips is used as organic compost alongside the manure. The Sangiovese then goes into wood for the malolactic fermentation, typically large oak botti, before transfer to the barrel cellar below.

The barrel cellar, which has that wonderful aroma at once part-wine and part-oak, and yet also damp and slightly yeasty, is a very comfortable 15 or 16ºC, a stark and welcome contrast to the dry heat outside. The humidity is 80%, nevertheless there is still some loss of wine through evaporation, and this is dealt with by topping up as required. The most significant wines typically go into a mix of one-, two- and three-year old French-oak barriques, first introduced in 1982, the barrels being discarded after three vintages, new barrels subsequently sourced from a collection of ten different tonnelleries. The wines will see out between 12 and 24 months in oak depending on the cuvée in question, the longer élevage being reserved for the top wines, the Flaccianello della Pieve and Vigna del Sorbo cuvées. There is a traditional approach to racking in order to clarify and oxygenate the wines. Throughout the process the wines are handled according to plot of origin, only coming together for the final blending after the élevage, which like the malolactic is carried out in large wooden botti.

The Wines of Fontodi

There is some considerable diversity here, with a complete Fontodi line-up taking in Syrah, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc (and perhaps a taste of the olive oil too, which I can also recommend). Nevertheless Sangiovese is the star player, in terms of quality as well as volume, so it is these wines that deserve the most considered examination. And although the Chianti Classico, which is of high quality, certainly warrants some thought, especially as this must be the largest volume cuvée, I cannot help turn to the two super-cuvées first.

First up is Flaccianello della Pieve (which I - like many others - generally refer to simply as Flaccianello), a 100% Sangiovese cuvée which perhaps conveys the very essence of Chianti...even though this is not a Chianti. This cuvée is, for historical reasons, designated an Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT); this is because pure Sangiovese cuvées were once forbidden under Chianti regulations, as blending with Canaiolo, Mammolo or even white varieties was not merely permitted but in fact mandated. Today this is no longer true, and 100% Sangiovese cuvées are eligible; nevertheless Manetti and Bernabei choose to continue on with the IGT designation, perhaps to distinguish it from the other top cuvée Vigna del Sorbo (more on this below). Nevertheless, Chianti or not, I think Flaccianello is, to put it simply, the most exciting Sangiovese-based wine I have ever tasted.

Once sourced from the Flaccianello vineyard, which sits across the road from the Fontodi estate (I'm standing in the middle of it in the photograph above - the drive leading up the slope in the distance leads to the Fontodi estate), in 2000 this changed as the rest of the vineyard matured, giving Manetti more choice in how this cuvée was constructed. Hence from this vintage Flaccianello is a blend of the very best plots, allowing for the original but aged Flaccianello vines to be uprooted and replanted. The wine is handled very much as described above, with up to 24 months in oak, perhaps a little less in some vintages. The label is distinctive and perhaps worth a mention. Several centuries ago this estate was referred to as Flaccianello, before it was rechristened Fontodi, so it seems very appropriate that the name should live on in this wine. The stone cross featured on the label was unearthed in the vineyard, an ancient, centuries-old artefact which, once cleaned up, was installed in a nearby parish church (or pieve in Italian, hence Flaccianello della Pieve). As far as my opinion of the wine goes, I do not need to offer any more comments other than that very positive one made above, except to say that of only a handful of wines from Tuscany finding their way into my cellar these days, this cuvée is indeed one of them.

In contrast to Flaccianello, the Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is not pure Sangiovese, but is in fact a blend dominated by this variety, which accounts typically for about 90%. The remaining 10% is Cabernet Sauvignon. That the pure Sangiovese Flaccianello should be classified as an IGT, while the Sangiovese-Cabernet blend takes the coveted title of Chianti Classico Riserva, serves to illustrate just how perverse the evolution of the Chianti Classico DOCG has been.

Whatever explanation that might be offered for this apparent anomaly, one important factor surely relates to the date when the relevant style was authorised. Both wines would have once been illegal under the Chianti Classico regulations of old, in the case of Vigna del Sorbo as a result of the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon in preference to the traditional blenders such as Canaiolo or Colorino, in the case of Flaccianello because it is 100% Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon was authorised as a component in the Chianti Classico blend in the 1980s, whereas pure Sangiovese cuvées were not authorised until 1996, and once the two were differentiated by the earlier legislation there was probably little motivation for Manetti to 'homogenise' the very distinctive Flaccianello cuvée under the Chianti Classico banner.

The wine is sourced from vines in the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard, a southwest-facing slope which accounts for about 8 hectares of the Fontodi estate. This was planted fairly soon after Dino Manetti acquired the property but the creation of the wine, one of the first Sangiovese-Cabernet blends, was down to Giovanni and Franco Bernabei. As indicated above, the wine is fermented in stainless steel before going into Tronçais and Alliers oak, 50% new, for 24 months. The result is, in my opinion, one of the ultimate expressions of the Chianti vineyard.

The estate produces a straight Chianti Classico, into which goes some high quality fruit, including grapes once destined for a riserva which was discontinued to allow this. The wine receives up to a year of barrel maturation, mainly in French barriques. If placed on the quality spectrum of all Chianti Classico cuvées, it is generally towards the top end; in some vintages it may, of course, include fruit declassified from the grander cuvées mentioned above

There are a number of other wines produced, the most significant of which are the Syrah and Pinot Nero cuvées bottled under the Case Via label. The Pinot Noir reflects the influences on Giovanni's wine education, having grown up at a time when Chianti was a much derided region, and he looked abroad to Burgundy, among other regions, for inspiration. The Pinot vines were planted in 1985, as were the Syrah vines, during a period of youthful experimentation for Manetti. There is also the Sauvignon Blanc Meriggio, and a Vin Santo.

Tasting Fontodi

Having enjoyed the wines of Fontodi for many years, it was a delight to visit the estate and gain a firmer grasp on the people, philosophies and vines that lies behind these wines. Giovanni Manetti and Franco Bernabei continue to produce beautiful fruit and craft a portfolio of stylish wines that display an abundance of typicity; they have improved and modernised, always looking forward, and yet they have also maintained a sense of traditionalism, a sense of place. The wines almost always impress on the palate, showing a depth of character, and the poise and balance that can be found with Sangiovese. The wines of the 1999 and 2001 vintages were particularly strong, with more recent vintages such as 2004 and 2007 no less impressive. These are bottles - especially the two top cuvées, Flaccianello della Pieve and Vigna del Sorbo, which no Tuscanophile or indeed Italophile should be without. (16/9/02, updated 2/3/06, 6/2/08, 18/10/11)

Contact details:
Address: 50020 Panzano in Chianti
Telephone: +39 055 852 005
Fax: +39 055 852 537
Internet: www.fontodi.com
GPS: 43.530826, 11.304883

Fontodi - Tasting Notes

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Fontodi Meriggio IGT 2009: From a single vineyard, La Rota, fermented in stainless steel, yielding about 8000 bottles per annum. A really clean and fruity nose, very fresh and fruit-dominated, with an aromatic profile moving into kiwi and passion fruit. The palate has some good substance, fleshy but also fresh with good acidity cutting right through it. This is satisfyingly bright and fresh considering the Tuscan climate. From a tasting at Fontodi. 15/20 (July 2011)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2008: A rather fresh appearance to this wine's colour. The nose has the same character, bright and fresh, with a light cherry aroma. The palate has a leaner character than I was perhaps expecting , although the fruit profile is as expected and it certainly has a rather appealing grippy structure beneath it all. Overall an attractive wine with a very fresh, composed substance. Appealing but I have to question the value offered by straight Chianti Classico these days - I can remember not that long ago I would have paid half the price this is listed at. From a 2011 Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5/20 (February 2011)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2008: This cuvée has seen 20 months in new French oak, and the alcohol is 14.8%. The production in this vintage is 55,000 bottles. A really perfumed style on the nose, with scents of black olive to the fore. The palate has a beautiful substance, showing a clean and bright frame giving the wine a feminine allure which more than compensates for the substantial depth it presents. A firm tannic backbone nevertheless, with a great seam of acidity; surprisingly that 14.8% alcohol doesn't come through on nose or palate. Very good indeed. From a tasting at Fontodi. 17.5/20 (July 2011)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007: This wine has spent 12 months in oak, and the yield in this vintage was about 200,000 bottles. A bright colour in the glass, and aromatically a slightly warm and meaty nose, although there is also some ripe and fresh fruits and a violet perfume, with a typical Sangiovese custardy edge. Soft and warm on entry, meaty as the nose suggested, grippy with some substance and a nice tannic backbone. Although the tannins show quite firmly on the finish, there is good acidity throughout giving the wine an attractive lift. Very good. From a tasting at Fontodi. 16.5/20 (July 2011)

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007: A fairly dark hue here, matched by dark fruit on the nose, still encapsulated by a firm presence of some honeyed oak. The brightness of the fruit does still shine through though. Just a touch of savoury depth behind it as well. The palate has a very appealing substance, gentle and detached, but showing an almost juicy, ripe, and well judged composition through the midpalate, before giving way to a layer of tannins and acidity. This has a very attractive presence in the middle and clearly has very fine potential. Perhaps not the greatest vintage of Vigna del Sorbo but certainly of high quality. Long, tannin-infused finish. From a 2011 Liberty Wines tasting. 18/20 (February 2011)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2007: This cuvée has seen 24 months in new French oak, and the alcohol is a striking 15%. The production in this vintage is 60,000 bottles. The nose is very classic for the variety and region, showing a rich seam of fairly dark fruit with a very firm, custardy feel to it. Aromatically it is very appealing, but I note there is also a little hint of toffee coming in the back here, and although the 15% does not show on this tasting perhaps this elements is alluding to fruit ripeness in this warmer vintage. A beautifully composed palate, quite stylish and rich, with a good structure. There is plenty of vigour on the palate, despite the thick seam of ripeness and texture. Very different in style to the 2008, but still holding much promise. From a tasting at Fontodi. 18/20 (July 2011)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006: Slightly withdrawn but attractive fruit on the nose, well defined, with a nicely structured palate. Defined, with a good texture, a little violet fruit, good tannins and fresh, balanced acidity. This has a lovely, juicy character and should give plenty of pleasure. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Fontodi Case Via Syrah IGT 2006: From 5 hectares of vines planted in 1985 which first yielded fruit in 1990. An élevage in French oak, one-third of barrels new each year. A very dark hue here, clearly different to the Sangiovese wines, fairly opaque in fact. A sweet and spicy fruit nose, with a schisty suggestion to it. Rather full and broad on the palate, nevertheless quite dry, and without the flesh of the Flaccianello vintages just tasted. Spicy, peppery, a touch soft, but there is some acidity here adding a sense of firmness to it. Overall, good. From a tasting at Fontodi. 16/20 (July 2011)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2005: This seems rather shy on the nose, but what fruit characteristics there are here are slightly roasted. The style on the palate is big, creamy and mouthfilling. Underneath, though, there is good acidity and a ripe seam of tannins. It is a big and impressive style, but having said this there is an attractive seam of minerals and calcareous stone, and it doesn't seem anything like as over-the-top as I recall from my last tasting. It needs time - a few years - to show its best. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 17+/20 (February 2008)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2005: A very warm, ripe and spicy character on the nose, with a slightly chemical edge to the fruit. Dark and meaty, and it seems a little hot, a little baked even. A soft style in the mouth, showing a ripe and brawny flavour but with only a moderate texture to fill out the palate. There is a lot of tannin here, and I sense a hollowness which is not entirely attractive. Low acidity. It seems overworked to me; too much effort and extraction here I think. Not scored. (November 2007)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2005: Dark and brooding on the nose, withdrawn, giving the suggestion of warmth but little else at the moment. Textured, underneath this a layer of acidity and grip. Very simple, direct and rather backward at present, but with lots of substance through to the finish. Excellent potential. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Fontodi Meriggio IGT 2004: A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in stainless steel, and 40% Pinot Blanc, fermented in Tronçais oak with subsequent daily lees stirring. Blended and bottled after six months. Rather Sauvignon in character on the nose, which is grassy, followed by a clean, soft, rounded palate with moderate acidity and nice character. Rather minerally, with grassy greengage fruit. For current drinking. Good. 15/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2004: This is delightful on the nose, showing a very pure and bright Sangiovese character, which is matched on the palate by a wealth of ripe fruit laid over a big core of ripe, structured tannins and fairly good acidity. It doesn't quite have the substance, texture or flesh that I would like for the structure that I find, but I suspect this is just in an awkward phase at the moment. I think this may come together very well indeed, and may have absolutely excellent potential in fact. It will be fascinating to see. 18-19+?/20 (November 2007)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2003: A dark colour here, a red-purple shade, not quite jet black! Liquorice-infused black fruits on the nose, and a midweight, low-acid palate; this sort of profile marks most of the 2003 Chiantis I have tasted. rather chalky background character, a ripe seam of firm tannin that seems prominently incongruous, but some decent black fruits. A touch one-dimensional, but certainly drinkable. 15.5/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva 2003: There is plenty of concentration and aroma here, although it has a dense, meaty, feral character. There is also a stony edge to it, but the predominant character, at this youthful moment, is that firm, animal funk. The palate has a broad, creamy, youthfully brawny character. In that vein, on the palate this wine doesn't really connect; there are ripe tannins, nicely presented, and huge fruit concentration, but right now it has a rather detached feel. There is clearly excellent potential here though. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2001: Dark and youthful hue. Takes a little while to open up. Black cherry nose, with a mineral and wet stone element. Smoky tobacco and a subtle hint of farmyard too. Lovely palate; Black cherry flavour with menthol nuances, wrapped around a core of beautifully ripe, svelte tannins. This has simply gorgeous texture and structure, with a seductive style. Fresh acidity. Super. 17.5+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: A very reassuring aroma as soon as the cork is pulled, slightly sour and dry cherry fruit, imbued with notes of leather and spice, especially clove and cinnamon. With more air it seems to withdraw into itself, and strangely display more primary aromas. The fruit shows some sweeter tones, more like ripe plump cherry, dark and rich, although alongside I find more evolved notes of orange peel and white pepper. Nicely texture at the start, although certainly not fat or flattering, and this appealing, reserved style is maintained through the midpalate. There are little notes of smoke and cherry stone coming in, but the fruit still manages to feel fleshy and ripe, even if there is a slightly spiky structure underneath, primarily acidity although there is also a seam of crystalline tannins giving some backbone here as well. The slightly citrusy notes come in with cranberry and more of that cinnamon, so overall the fruit style is crisp and bright. And the finish is long, slightly severe and structured. A very appealing although still rather awkward wine at this point. Looking back at my previous notes, it is fascinating to see how this wine has evolved from glossy youth, through uninterpretable adolescence into nascent maturity. But this wine still has a lot to give. I'm glad I have another couple tucked away. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2011)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: A very typical nose here, feral and meaty. The palate is well rounded, seeming rather one dimensional today, softly textured and yet tannic beneath. It has a good acid backbone, despite this sense of plush softness I get in the mouth. In truth it all seems a bit top-heavy today, out of kilter, and having tasted (and loved) this wine before I have to conclude that this wine is just not showing well today, for some reason. Stripping it down to its bare components, it has a great structure at the bottom of it all, ripe tannins, and the elements of balance are here. There is excellent potential here, I think, but on past experience of this vintage I know that I would normally look to score this wine quite highly. Not scored. (November 2007)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: A very appealing, glossy colour here, and a simply delightful nose, exotic and infused with earthy spices. Rich, ripe palate, with a firm and masculine structure, no doubt derived, in part at least, from the Cabernet component. Very fine midpalate indeed, followed by a firm, characterful finish. Great length too. Rather closed at present, but I suspect this wine just needs time; there is no lack of potential here. This will be superb, but needs five years as a bare minimum. 18+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: This wine took about six hours to really open up in the decanter; deeply coloured, it has a vibrant nose of fresh black forest fruits with complex nuances of rubber, leather and spearmint. It offers a full, sweet amply filled palate, with fine seams of silky tannins in the background. Earthy depth and a lovely structure, with the finesse of reserved, leather-tinged black fruits. Very fine. Very youthful, but very informative to see how this impressive young Chianti is shaping up, and it coped well with roast goose and duckling. Leave for 3-5 years. A Christmas Wine. 18+/20 (December 2005)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2001: A ripe and glossy hue, and like the Vigna del Sorbo of the same vintage another nose infused with exotic, ripe character, spiced with the aromas of macerated fruits. Elegant structure, beautifully balanced, with a succulent presence on the palate, and bright, vibrant fruit. Smoky, mineral nuances in the background; there is complexity and depth hiding here. Lovely, will be stunning. Obviously a great vintage. 18+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Case Via Pinot Nero IGT 2001: A good depth of colour here. On the nose, plenty of wild, feral, equine character. Certainly a richly endowed wine, displaying a full, rounded style on the palate. Ripe and full of primary fruit at present, but with lovely poise and balance too, though. A gentle coating of tannin follows through. I really didn't think I would like this; after all, how good can Tuscan Pinot Noir be? But, it is impressive, and a little surprising for that. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Case Via Syrah IGT 2001: A lovely dark hue here. The nose carries plenty of primary black fruit character, with a ripe, toffee edge, perhaps oak derived. On the palate this is ripe and creamily textured, with a gentle structure. Still very primary and rather simple at present, but there is no lack of potential here too. Another surprise, this time very good Tuscan Syrah! 17+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2000: A deep colour, which has lost the first flush of youth. A good nose, although very shy; it seemed like hours before this one opened up to reveal tar-toffee-perfume edged black cherry fruit. Full, round, slightly oily palate, with a mature texture, although still showing a little grip. A weaker vintage I think, making an impact on quality here. Fully mature, but should drink well for a few years yet. 14/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2000: A lovely, pure, glossy, vibrant hue. And a lovely nose too; smoky black cherry with a little liquorice. The palate is svelte, balanced, lithe yet with a soft, seductive quality. It glides across the palate, before depositing a coating of ripe, supple tannins. This is simply lovely. Drinkable now, or watch improve over the next five to eight years. 18+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve IGT 2000: Lovely colour. Exotic, dense black fruits on the nose. Impressive, expansive, full palate, with sweetly ripe fruit. Quite a subtle tannic structure in comparison, but the wine has a grip and firmness that needs time. Nicely balanced acidity. A very good wine for the vintage, and credit to the estate. Approachable now, but will improve over the next five to seven years. 16.5+/20 (September 2005)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 1999: This wine has a deep, garnet red colour. The nose has dense, meaty fruit, with nuances of beef extract. This is clearly made in a big, burly style. The palate is similarly big and meaty, with plenty of structure. There is good fruit, and strong acidity providing an underlying Italian note. Overall a medium bodied, firm, masculine mouth feel. 17/20 (September 2002)

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 1999: Good, deep colour, but still showing a youthful vibrancy. A rich nose, of dark, macerated, meaty fruit. Lovely extract immediately apparent on entry, followed by a sweep of ripe and supple tannins which lend a palpable grip and backbone to the palate. There is, overlaid, some ripe, textured fruit with liquorice. A tannic flourish on the finish; this wine needs cellar time, reflecting the quality of the vintage. Leave three to five years; should drink well for five to eight years at least thereafter. 18.5+/20 (September 2005)