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Fontodi
The Fontodi estate is located in Panzano, almost at the centre of the Chianti Classico region. Like Felsina, which claims an Etruscan origin for its name, Fontodi also has a long history; vines have been cultivated here since the time of the Roman empire, and documents prove there was vinification here as far back as the 16th Century, at a farmhouse then referred to as Case Via. The current owners, the Manetti family, also have many centuries of history in Chianti, although not with viticulture. For three hundred years this family has been renowned for the manufacture of terracotta, and it was not until 1968 that the family decided to move into wine, with the purchase of Fontodi.
Currently
in charge of the 67 hectare estate which lies just south of Panzanno, at the heart of
the Chianti Classico DOCG, is Giovanni Manetti, aided by cousin Marco.
Giovanni's first involvement in the family winery was in 1979, and before long
he had hired reputable oenologist Franco Bernabei; together they have been instrumental in
upgrading many practices at Fontodi. A most significant
and recent development was the construction of an ultra-modern
cantina, completed in 1998. The fruit from the vineyards, which lie in a
south-facing amphitheatre known as the Conca d'Oro (which translates as
golden shell) on marl and clay galestro soils, are fermented in
temperature-controlled stainless steel in this new winery, with punching down of
the cap to increase extraction. Once finished it matures in wood in the brand
new barrel cellar, the transfer process being gravitational rather than by
pumping. All the wines are aged in French oak, with the premier cuvées going
into new oak, and the lesser wines into the older barrels.
The estate produces a straight Chianti
Classico, into which goes some high quality fruit, including grapes
once destined for the Riserva, which has been discontinued to
allow this. The wine receives up to a year of barrel maturation, mainly
in French barriques. Of the two flagship wines, Chianti Classico Riserva
Vigna del Sorbo is predominantly Sangiovese with about 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. The Vigna del Sorbo cru, 8 hectares in size, had been planted up
early in the Manetti's tenure, but it was Giovanni and Franco that were
instrumental in creating this wine, one of the first Sangiovese-Cabernet blends.
This is equally true of Flaccianello della Pieve, the
estate's 'Super-Tuscan', one of the first such 100% Sangiovese wines, which
originates from a 10 hectare cru. Both cuvées are aged
in barrel, and Flaccianello sees some malolactic in wood also.
There are a number of other wines produced, the most significant of
which are the Syrah and Pinot Nero cuvées bottled under the Case Via label.
The Pinot Noir reflects the influences on Giovanni's wine education, having
grown up at a time when Chianti was a much derided region, and he looked abroad
to Burgundy, among other regions, for inspiration. The Pinot vines were planted
in 1985, as were the Syrah vines, during a period of youthful experimentation
for Manetti.
Having enjoyed Fontodi wines for many years, it was a delight for me to experience the wines first-hand, in the region where they are produced. Giovanni Manetti and Franco Bernabei continue to produce beautiful fruit and craft a portfolio of stylish wines that display an abundance of typicity; they have improved and modernised, always looking forward, and yet have maintained a sense of traditionalism, a sense of place. The wines almost always impress on the palate, showing a depth of characterful fruit, and the poise and balance that can be found with Sangiovese. The wines of the 1999 and 2001 vintages are particularly strong, with the latter vintage showing great consistency; the wines are excellent at all levels, and for all varieties; Pinot Noir, Syrah and Sangiovese. These are bottles which no Italophile should be without. (2/3/06, updated 6/2/08)
Contact details:
Address: 50020 Panzano in Chianti
Telephone: +39 055 852 005
Fax: +39 055 852 537
Internet: www.fontodi.com
Fontodi - Tasting Notes
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Fontodi Chianti Classico 2005: A very warm, ripe and spicy character on the
nose, with a slightly chemical edge to the fruit. Dark and meaty, and it seems a
little hot, a little baked even. A soft style in the mouth, showing a ripe and
brawny flavour but with only a moderate texture to fill out the palate. There is
a lot of tannin here, and I sense a hollowness which is not entirely attractive.
Low acidity. It seems overworked to me; too much effort and extraction here I think.
Not scored.
(November 2007)
Fontodi Meriggio 2004: A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in
stainless steel, and 40% Pinot Blanc, fermented in Tronçais oak with subsequent
daily lees stirring. Blended and bottled after six months. Rather Sauvignon in
character on the nose, which is grassy, followed by a clean, soft, rounded
palate with moderate acidity and nice character. Rather minerally, with grassy
greengage fruit. For current drinking. Good. 15/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2004: This is delightful on the nose,
showing a very pure and bright Sangiovese character, which is matched on the
palate by a wealth of ripe fruit laid over a big core of ripe, structured
tannins and fairly good acidity. It doesn't quite have the substance, texture or
flesh that I would like for the structure that I find, but I suspect this is
just in an awkward phase at the moment. I think this may come together very well
indeed, and may have absolutely excellent potential in fact. It will be
fascinating to see. 18-19?+/20 (November 2007)
Fontodi Chianti
Classico 2003: A dark colour here, a red-purple shade, not quite jet black!
Liquorice-infused black fruits on the nose, and a midweight, low-acid palate;
this sort of profile marks most of the 2003 Chiantis I have tasted. rather
chalky background character, a ripe seam of firm tannin that seems prominently
incongruous, but some decent black fruits. A touch one-dimensional, but
certainly drinkable. 15.5/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Chianti
Classico 2001: Dark and youthful hue. Takes a little while to open up. Black
cherry nose, with a mineral and wet stone element. Smoky tobacco and a subtle
hint of farmyard too. Lovely palate; Black cherry flavour with menthol nuances,
wrapped around a core of beautifully ripe, svelte tannins. This has simply
gorgeous texture and structure, with a seductive style. Fresh acidity. Super.
17.5+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: A very typical nose here, feral and meaty. The
palate is well rounded, seeming rather one dimensional today, softly textured
and yet tannic beneath. It has a good acid backbone, despite this sense of plush
softness I get in the mouth. In truth it all seems a bit top-heavy today, out of
kilter, and having tasted (and loved) this wine before I have to conclude that
this wine is just not showing well today, for some reason. Stripping it down to
its bare components, it has a great structure at the bottom of it all, ripe
tannins, and the elements of balance are here. There is excellent potential here, I
think, but on past experience of this vintage I know that I would normally
look to score this wine quite highly. Not scored.
(November 2007)
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: A very
appealing, glossy colour here, and a simply delightful nose, exotic and infused
with earthy spices. Rich, ripe palate, with a firm and masculine structure, no
doubt derived, in part at least, from the Cabernet component. Very fine
midpalate indeed, followed by a firm, characterful finish. Great length too.
Rather closed at present, but I suspect this wine just needs time; there is no
lack of potential here. This will be superb, but needs five years as a bare
minimum. 18+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2001: This wine took about six
hours to really open up in the decanter; deeply coloured, it has a vibrant nose
of fresh black forest fruits with complex nuances of rubber, leather and
spearmint. It offers a full, sweet amply filled palate, with fine seams of silky
tannins in the background. Earthy depth and a lovely structure, with the finesse
of reserved, leather-tinged black fruits. Very fine. Very youthful, but very
informative to see how this impressive young Chianti is shaping up, and it coped
well with roast goose and duckling. Leave for 3-5 years. A
Christmas Wine. 18+/20 (December 2005)
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2001: A ripe and glossy hue, and like
the Vigna del Sorbo of the same vintage another nose infused with exotic, ripe
character, spiced with the aromas of macerated fruits. Elegant structure,
beautifully balanced, with a succulent presence on the palate, and bright,
vibrant fruit. Smoky, mineral nuances in the background; there is complexity and
depth hiding here. Lovely, will be stunning. Obviously a great vintage. 18+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Case Via Pinot
Nero 2001: A good depth of colour here. On the nose, plenty of wild, feral,
equine character. Certainly a richly endowed wine, displaying a full, rounded
style on the palate. Ripe and full of primary fruit at present, but with lovely
poise and balance too, though. A gentle coating of tannin follows through. I
really didn't think I would like this; after all, how good can Tuscan
Pinot Noir be? But, it is impressive, and a little surprising for that. Very
good indeed. 17+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Case Via Syrah 2001: A lovely dark hue here. The nose carries
plenty of primary black fruit character, with a ripe, toffee edge, perhaps oak
derived. On the palate this is ripe and creamily textured, with a gentle
structure. Still very primary and rather simple at present, but there is no lack
of potential here too. Another surprise, this time very good Tuscan
Syrah! 17+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2000: A deep colour, which has lost the first
flush of youth. A good nose, although very shy; it seemed like hours before this
one opened up to reveal tar-toffee-perfume edged black cherry fruit. Full,
round, slightly oily palate, with a mature texture, although still showing a
little grip. A weaker vintage I think, making an impact on quality here. Fully
mature, but should drink well for a few years yet. 14/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2000: A lovely, pure,
glossy, vibrant hue. And a lovely nose too; smoky black cherry with a little
liquorice. The palate is svelte, balanced, lithe yet with a soft, seductive
quality. It glides across the palate, before depositing a coating of ripe,
supple tannins. This is simply lovely. Drinkable now, or watch improve over the
next five to eight years. 18+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2000: Lovely colour. Exotic, dense
black fruits on the nose. Impressive, expansive, full palate, with sweetly ripe
fruit. Quite a subtle tannic structure in comparison, but the wine has a grip
and firmness that needs time. Nicely balanced acidity. A very good wine for the
vintage, and credit to the estate. Approachable now, but will improve over the
next five to seven years. 16.5+/20 (September 2005)
Fontodi Chianti Classico 1999:
This wine has a deep, garnet red colour. The nose has dense, meaty fruit,
with nuances of beef extract. This is clearly made in a big, burly style.
The palate is similarly big and meaty, with plenty of structure. There is good fruit,
and strong acidity providing an underlying Italian note. Overall a medium bodied, firm, masculine
mouth feel. 17/20 (September 2002) Label
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo
1999: Good, deep colour, but still showing a youthful vibrancy. A rich nose,
of dark, macerated, meaty fruit. Lovely extract immediately apparent on entry,
followed by a sweep of ripe and supple tannins which lend a palpable grip and
backbone to the palate. There is, overlaid, some ripe, textured fruit with
liquorice. A tannic flourish on the finish; this wine needs cellar time,
reflecting the quality of the vintage. Leave three to five years; should drink
well for five to eight years at least thereafter. 18.5+/20 (September 2005)
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