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Castello di Fonterutoli

Castello di Fonterutoli One should not, in my perhaps biased view, visit any Chianti estates without including the historic estate of Fonterutoli. Just like Fattoria di Felsina, this estate of great repute lies within striking distance of Siena, my base for this trip. From the winery buildings, pictured here on the right, one has a good view of the hilltop Duomo (on the right), and the Torre del Mangia (on the left) in the distance. Both date from the 13th Century, and for much of this time the Mazzei family have looked across the Tuscan countryside at Siena, as this is a winemaking dynasty with a history that may be traced back at least nine centuries.

The Mazzei family are first described as residents of the Carmignano region, closer to Florence, in documents that date from the 11th Century. Their coat of arms from that period suggests they were active as coopers, but they were most probably tending vines and making wine as well. Certainly this was the case by the 14th Century, when Ser Lapo Mazzei, a notary in the local government, tended vines on the family's Grignano estate in Carmignano, together with his brother Lionardo. Of note is that the earliest written reference to Chianti as a wine was in a sales contract, signed by Ser Lapo Mazzei, in 1398.

For an incredible six centuries the Mazzei family have continued with viticulture in Tuscany, today located at Castello di Fonterutoli. The origins of the estate are cloudy, but the name may originate from fons rutolae or fons rutilant, referring to the spring where travellers between Siena and Florence could stop to refresh themselves. By the 13th Century it was a well established estate, where peace treaties, dividing up the rule of the Chianti region, were signed in 1202 and 1208. The property came to the Mazzei family in 1435, when it consisted of a villa, replacing the original fortress (hence castello), church and a few other buildings. It is an expansive estate, now covering 470 hectares, although only 69 of which are planted to vines. The vineyard altitude ranges from 230 to 500m, and are planted at 3200 to 6500 vines per hectare, in four separate zones; two of these are Fonterotoli and Siepi, teh first of which lie around the Fonterutoli hamlet, and represent the original vineyards. The Fonterotoli vineyards have typical albarese Chianti soils and are planted with Sangiovese and Merlot, whereas the Siepi vineyards, which are located around Castellina in Chianti, have a more complex blend of clay, marly limestone and calciferous sandstone, and are planted with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet. The Badiola and Belvedere vineyards, near Radda in Chianti and Castelnuovo Berardenga respectively, also have typical albarese soils. All the sites are south to south-west facing, and are harvested at no more than 40 hl/ha.

Lapo Mazzei, born 1925, took over the running of the estate in 1947, and was instrumental in restructuring the vineyards and olive groves, laying the ground work for the success that Fonterutoli enjoys today. It is now Filippo and Francesco that run the business, however, joining the family concern in 1978 and 1996 respectively, after gaining useful experience elsewhere. One of the more recent changes the Mazzei family have made to the Fonterutoli portfolio is to cease production of two of their award winning Super-Tuscan wines, Concerto and Ser Lapo, in order to channel more time and better grapes into their Chianti wines. The estate's flagship wine is now the Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico, which is essentially a Riserva, although this is not declared on the label, and the wine is differentiated from the basic Chianti by the Castello prefix. This is Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the fruit coming from the Siepi, Fonterutoli and Belvedere vineyards, aged in French Barriques for up to 18 months. They also produce a standard cuvée, labelled simply as Fonterutoli Chianti Classico, all Sangiovese from the Fonterutoli and Belvedere vineyards, aged in French barriques for up to twelve months. Third comes the Sangiovese Poggio alla Badiola, an IGT which is 75% Sangiovese and 25% Merlot. Just one Super-Tuscan remains, namely Siepi, which is produced from Sangiovese and Merlot in equal proportions.

I was really pleased to reacquaint myself with this top Chianti estate. I was shocked when I realised, on my return to the UK, that over the last five years I have only drank one bottle of this estates wine. Clearly, following this tasting that was something that needed to be rectified. Of the three straight Classicos, the 2001 was a clear winner, reflecting the quality of this great Tuscan vintage. The 2003 was also very reflective of the vintage, warm and ripe, but low in acidic grip, and so it picked up a low score. Another reminder to some that a heat-wave doesn't make a great vintage. As for the Castello wines, however, these were largely excellent, and even the 2000 - a difficult vintage I think - was very drinkable. Top wines were, though, in my opinion, the 1997 and 2001, and there are several bottles of each now tucked away in my cellar, so I should be able to ensure that I get more than a single taste of these great wines during the next five years. (9/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: Fonterutoli 1, Castellina in Chianti
Telephone: +39 0577 73571
Fax: +39 0577 735757
Internet: www.fonterotoli.it

Castello di Fonterutoli - Tasting Notes

Tasted in December 2007. Click to locate stockists:

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: This wine takes a little time to open out and reveal where it really is right now, but it is certainly worth the wait. The colour is red-black, with a dusky maturing hue. It initially has a little volatility, but this blows off to reveal notes of custard - a Sangiovese trait - and dark fruits with a rather meaty, furry, savage-styled fruit. This fruit carried through onto the palate where it has a lovely presence, as the structure builds in grip, showing firm tannins on the midpalate. It has a broadness, but with the freshness of redcurrants, plums and cherries. There is a supple character and a well integrated composition. Although it is perhaps a touch brawny still, overall this is very nicely integrated and right now is simply delicious for drinking. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 18.5+/20

Tasted in May 2007:

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Showing a little more maturity in appearance, and certainly a maturing fruit style on the nose, but with fine complexity. A medley of black cherry, black olive, leather, and a meaty, smoked bacon character act to entice. Good depth, slightly austere at the start, but opening out on the midpalate to reveal plenty of texture and flavour, but always with that appealing bitter cherry structure underneath. Lovely savoury style on the finish, with a lick of tannin. Still needs 1-2 years in the cellar to be fully ready, but excellent nevertheless. 18.5+/20

Tasted in August 2005:

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2000: A very dark, purple-black. Quite closed on opening, and in fact it sulked for most of the evening. Occasionally showed little nuances of black cherry and black olive, with a touch of dirty barnyard. Fresh, crisp, with firm, zippy, obvious acidity. Medium body. Very decent tannic structure, with a savoury, drying finish. Did eventually open up to show some good flavour. I ended up liking this, although it's hard work, and I reserve judgement about future performance. I have had plenty of lesser 2000s though. 15.5/20

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2001: A jet-black-purple hue. Smoky, sweet, black cherry fruits, with a note of sweet yet firm loganberries I think. Beautifully cool and elegant palate, with fresh black fruits alongside a lovely structure; a ripe, tannic backbone with firm grip and medium body. Full and ripe. Quite seductive. This is great stuff, punching way above its weight. 17/20

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2003: Super-dark wine from a super-ripe vintage. Lovely nose that I have quickly come to associate with 2003 Chianti; blueberry and other dark berry fruit. An appealing palate, although not a great foil for food. Ripe, rich, creamy, but lacking in that essential for balance and elegance; acidity. Nevertheless, pleasing flavour and quite seductive in style. Good, although needs more acidity for my palate. 14.5/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1995: Still a deep colour, despite now being ten years of age. The nose gives up aromas of dark and spicy fruits, with a little baked cherry quite noticeable. There's a lovely texture on entry, showing super, tangible extract; this is rich and mouth-filling, and possessive of fine structure and a firm, solid presence of maturing fruit. Good length too. This has impressive stamina, and although lovely now has further development to do I'm sure. 18+/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Still showing a youthful hue at eight years old. Rather restrained nose showing, with a little time, some black pepper, black olives and smoked, spicy meats. Smoothly integrated palate, showing just lovely floral-tinged black olive fruit over a background of gentle, fading tannins. Sappy, with lovely extract, but with good composure. Great length too. This is simply delightful and approachable now, although will be even better in 2-3 years. 18.5+/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1999: Beginning to show a little maturity, but still a concentrated, deeply coloured wine. Roasted black cherries found here, with bacon and chocolate, and some appealing chalky-dusty notes. Cool, refreshing and balanced palate, with lovely extract and body. Still showing a little prominent tannic structure, and a little creaminess. But elegant and appealing. This is lovely. Certainly needs another 2-3 years before approaching again. 17.5+/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2000: Close to opaque on inspection; there is plenty of pigment here! And a captivating nose, with slightly tarry, floral, smouldering hickory and roast meat, but with a minerally character as well. It doesn't have the texture or weight through the midpalate of the 2001, but although a little leaner it has no shortage of character or flavour. Roast black cherry fruit, with some mocha-chocolate on the slightly short finish, backed up by rather dry tannins. There are points of criticism here, but this is still lovely wine. Needs 3-4 years cellar time. 17+/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2001: A gloriously deep colour, with a complex and aromatic nose showing violets, dark fruits, tar, fine leather, minerals and a touch of mocha; this is lovely. Delightful weight and texture, exhibiting great depth and extract, and full, slightly tarry, grippy, serious midpalate, which has an air of elegance about it. Tannin-stained, lengthy finish. Superb wine, and a great success for the vintage. Will improve over 4-5 years minimum. 18.5+/20

Tasted in August 2002:

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1995: A lovely colour, still displaying the vibrant red-black hue of youth. The nose seems at first to be packed out with smoky, youthful, raspberry and cherry fruit, liquorice and wood, but with time aromas of grilled meats appear. Good fruit on the palate, which is initially dominated by considerable acidity. Some ime in the glass soon heals this, however, as with aeration the palate fattens up and develops a good texture, and this is more than a match for the strong acidity. Smoked meat and charred, smouldering wood flavours alongside the fruit. Pleasant tannins. Considerable length. Very good. Label