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Castello di Fonterutoli

One should not, in my perhaps biased view, visit any Chianti estates without including the historic Castello di Fonterutoli. This estate lies just a few kilometres south of Castellina in Chianti, one of the villages at the heart of the original Chianti Classico zone. The estate itself dates from the 13th century, and for much of this time the Mazzei family have looked out at the Tuscan countryside from their cellar door; remarkably, this is a winemaking dynasty with a history that may be traced back at least nine centuries.

History

The Mazzei family are first described as residents of the Carmignano region, closer to Florence, in documents that date from the 11th century. Their coat of arms from that period suggests they were active as coopers, but they were most probably tending vines and making wine as well. Certainly this was the case by the 14th century, when Ser Lapo Mazzei, a notary in the local government, tended vines on the family's Grignano estate in Carmignano, together with his brother Lionardo. Of note, the earliest written reference to Chianti as a wine (interestingly, a white wine rather than a red) was in a sales contract, signed by Ser Lapo Mazzei, in 1398.

For an incredible six centuries the Mazzei family have continued with viticulture in Tuscany, today located at Castello di Fonterutoli, following the marriage of Ser Lapo Mazzei's granddaughter to Piero di Agnolo di Fonterutoli. The origin of the name Fonterutoli is somewhat cloudy, but the name may originate from fons rutolae or fons rutilant, both terms referring to a nearby spring where travellers moving between Siena and Florence could stop to refresh themselves. By the 13th century it was a well established estate, where peace treaties, dividing up the rule of the Chianti region, were signed in 1202 and 1208. The property came to the Mazzei family in 1435, when it consisted of a villa, this having replaced the original fortress (hence castello), as well as a church and a few other buildings.

Lapo Mazzei, born 1925, took over the running of the estate in 1947, and was instrumental in restructuring the vineyards and olive groves, laying the ground work for the success that Fonterutoli enjoys today. Lapo, president of the Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico for twenty years, introduced Bordeaux varieties for blending in 1975, and began experimenting with smaller oak barriques to replace the large chestnut and cherry botti in common use. It was his work at Fonterutoli that was largely responsible for lifting the quality of the wines produced here above those of Fonterutoli's peers. Today the mantle has been passed to the next generation; his sons Filippo and Francesco run the family business, joining the team in 1978 and 1996 respectively, having first gained useful experience elsewhere.

Most recently the Mazzei brothers have overseen the production of an impressive new cantina (pictured above), building of which commenced in 2003 and was completed in 2006. This is located within a small valley which can be found at the end of an unprepossessing gravel-dressed track which heads off one of the main routes through Chianti country, the SR222, as it heads north into Castellina in Chianti. The design comes from none other than Agnese Mazzei, another of the Mazzei siblings. A winery on three levels, much of which is dug into the rock and is thus hidden from view, it sits beneath the village of Fonterutoli itself, where the Mazzei family's enoteca and osteria are located. The three-level design allows for more gentle handling of the fruit (feeding it from one process to the next by gravity rather than by pumping), and quite uniquely (in my experience, anyway) conditions within the barrel cellar are moderated by the flow of a natural spring from the wall of rock behind the barrels.

The Mazzei Vineyards

Today this is an expansive estate, now covering 650 hectares, of which 117 hectares are dedicated to the vine. The vineyard altitude ranges from 230 to 500m, and in recent years planting density has been increased so that it now stands close to 7000 vines per hectare, in five separate zones; the first two of these are Fonterutoli and Siepi, the original nucleus of the estate.

There are 18 hectares of vines in the Fonterutoli vineyards which lie at 420 metres above sea level, divided into six separate plots which encircle the village of Fonterutoli itself (a small section is seen in the foreground, right, with the church of Fonterutoli above). They have typical albarese Chianti soils and are planted with Sangiovese (75%) and Merlot (25%). The Siepi vineyards, meanwhile, are located a little further north along the SR222, in a band which lies to the south of Castellina in Chianti. They sit on slopes facing the Val d'Elsa, at an altitude of 250 metres, and have a more complex blend of clay, marly limestone and calciferous sandstone. The 22 hectares found here are planted with Sangiovese (60%), along with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (which together make up the remaining 40%).

The Belvedere vineyards are about 5 kilometres from Fonterutoli, roughly to the south, and here there are 20 hectares of vines lying at 300 metres above sea level. They are planted exclusively with Sangiovese, and the soil underfoot is a rich, calcareous marl. The Badiola or Le Ripe vineyards, meanwhile, lie a little closer to Fonterutoli, just a little to the east near Radda in Chianti. Here there are 19 hectares of vines planted on very typical limestone soils, planted entirely with Sangiovese and Merlot. The is a relatively cooler microclimate here thanks to a slightly higher altitude, which is about 500 metres above sea level. Finally, these four sources have now been joined by a fifth, Caggio, located a little to the west, this site having been purchased from Ezio Rivella of Castello Banfi in 2006.

All the work in the vineyard is carried out by hand, including the eventual harvest, which aims for a yield no more than 40 hl/ha. In the glistening new winery the fruit is pressed and fermented in tronconic stainless steel vats, and thereafter the wine goes into small oak barriques for the malolactic fermentation and subsequent élevage. The identity of each vineyard is preserved throughout the entire process, the fruit and wines kept separate during each stage of the fermentation and élevage, only coming together in the final blending, which occurs just before bottling.

The Wines

Filippo Mazzei favours blending over 100% Sangiovese wines, and thus all of the wines of Castello di Fonterutoli feature international varieties, specifically Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, alongside the Sangiovese. The vinifications are carried out with advice from consultant Carlo Ferrini. For my palate, it is the top wine, the Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico, which keeps me coming back for more.

The Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico is the estate's flagship wine, introduced in the 1995 vintage, meets all the criteria for the riserva designation, but this is not declared on the label, and the wine is differentiated from the basic Chianti (labelled as Fonterutoli Chianti Classico) solely by the Castello prefix; I find this quirk of nomenclature unnecessarily confusing, but it is the Mazzei way it seems.

The blend here is dominated by Sangiovese, typically with 10-15% Cabernet Sauvignon added, the fruit coming from the Siepi, Fonterutoli and Belvedere vineyards. The fermentation is thermo-regulated to 28-30ºC with a maceration lasting typically 15-18 days, after which the wine goes into French-oak barriques for up to 18 months. It has been treated to a new label design for the 2007 vintage which I find less distinctive and eye catching than the previous one, with its characteristic pale yellow border and darker centre.

Sticking with the Chianti designation for a moment, the Fonterutoli Chianti Classico (the non-riserva) is also based on Sangiovese sourced in this case from the Fonterutoli and Belvedere vineyards, here typically accounting for 90% of the blend, the balance being Merlot, Colorino and Malvasia Nera. This wine is handled in much the same manner as the Castello wine, but with a shorter élevage, as the wine typically rests in French barriques for a maximum of 12 months prior to bottling.

There is one other example of Chianti Classico to be mentioned here, and that is Ser Lapo, a Chianti Classico Riserva. This blend is, like the above wines, 90% Sangiovese, but here the balance is purely Merlot. It is sourced from across a range of vineyards.

Moving away from Sangiovese dominance, and wines classified as Chianti Classico, we come to Siepi. At first glance we might think this a typical 'Super-Tuscan' blend but in fact, although this is an IGT Toscana, there is still 50% Sangiovese in the blend here. The remaining 50% is all Merlot. The fruit is sourced from a 6-hectare plot within the Siepi vineyards, from vines up to 25 years old. The fermentation is controlled to 28-30ºC in the same manner as the Chianti Classico cuvées, and after approximately two weeks of maceration the wine sees out 16-18 months in French-oak barriques before bottling. The wood may be between 70% and 100% new, with any older wood used usually directed towards the Sangiovese rather than the Merlot. A frequent award-winner, whether it be the top tre bicchieri in the annual Gambero Rosso guide to Italian wine, or a high score from big-name critics, there is no doubt that this is a hugely important and influential wine - once described as "one of the 50 wines that changed Italy's wine style" - for the Mazzei family.

From the Fonterutoli estate there is also an IGT Toscana Badiola, an entry-level wine which takes fruit rejected from the Chianti Classico cuvées. It is typically 70-75% Sangiovese, the balance often Merlot, although the exact nature of the blend varies from year to year; it has been 100% Sangiovese in at least one vintage, and some years there is also some Cabernet Sauvignon included.

It is perhaps worth being aware that the Mazzei family own two other estates in Italy, the closest being Belguardo in the Morellino di Scansano zone. At this property the family turn out IGT Toscana wines that blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Fonterutoli: Tasting and Drinking

My focus is undoubtedly the Loire and Bordeaux, but as I have declared elsewhere on Winedoctor I do like to look further afield from time to time. I may not have my finger on the pulse of all that is new and exciting in Tuscany, but through seeking out the occasional taste of old favourites such as Fontodi, Fèlsina or Fonterutoli I can at least revisit familiar estates and familiar cuvées, see what changes - hopefully positive - have been made, and also keep some variety passing across my palate.

It is clear that since I first encountered the wines of the Mazzei family, which was quite a few years ago now, there has been considerable investment in their facilities, and expansion and improvement of the vineyards. Rather like the Loire, the Chianti Classico region has seen some very exciting developments in recent years and it seems to me that Castello di Fonterutoli have continued to play a significant role at the heart of this continually evolving wine region. That is not to say that all here is perfect; there have been some difficult vintages recently, the service within the Fonterutoli enoteca borders on dysfunctional (see my guide to wine tasting in Tuscany for more on that) and I am perplexed by the relabeling of the confusingly named Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico. Nevertheless, what really matters is that the quality found within each bottle remains high, and that seems to be the case. I have fond memories of the 1997 and 1999, and I hope that more recent vintages - such as the superb 2007 - perform in a similar manner. (27/8/02, updated 9/3/06, 1/11/11)

Contact details:
Address: Via Ottone III n°5, Loc. Fonterutoli, I-53011 Castellina in Chianti
Telephone: +39 0577 73571
Fax: +39 0577 735757
Internet: www.fonterutoli.it
GPS: 43.436027, 11.303451

Castello di Fonterutoli - Tasting Notes

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Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2007: This is 90% Sangiovese, from any number of the 36 separate clones the Mazzei family have in their vineyards, the remaining 10% being Colorino, Malvasia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Restrained smoky fruit on the nose, not very expressive. Good fruit style on the palate, still youthful and unintegrated but the substance, grip and acidity is there. A good style. Gentle, supple, fine grip. Potential here, but needs 2-3 years. From an Enotria tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2007: A first taste served ridiculously warm at the estate was soft and blowsy as a result, and thus unworthy of comment. This bottle, served later by me was poured at the correct temperature. There is exuberant fruit on the nose, rather plump and berry-like in character, very primary with notes of black olive and also some vanilla on top. Rich, cool, fleshy, very dense on the palate, cut through by great acidity which was certainly not apparent when I tasted at Fonterutoli. It is savoury and broad, fresh and quite grippy, with a good ripeness to the tannins. With a rather firm structure and good fruit this is certainly set to cellar well. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 17.5/20 (July 2011)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2006: This is made from fruit sourced from across all the Mazzei vineyards. A great depth of fruit on the nose here, very pure, with an intense and dark style. Soft and rather creamy on the palate, obviously young, but with a good composition. Midpalate grip, not showing overt oak despite its youth, through to lots of grip in the finish. Excellent potential here. From an Enotria tasting. 18+/20 (March 2010)

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2003: Super-dark wine from a super-ripe vintage. Lovely nose that I have quickly come to associate with 2003 Chianti; blueberry and other dark berry fruit. An appealing palate, although not a great foil for food. Ripe, rich, creamy, but lacking in that essential for balance and elegance; acidity. Nevertheless, pleasing flavour and quite seductive in style. Good, although needs more acidity for my palate. 14.5/20 (August 2005)

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2001: A jet-black-purple hue. Smoky, sweet, black cherry fruits, with a note of sweet yet firm loganberries I think. Beautifully cool and elegant palate, with fresh black fruits alongside a lovely structure; a ripe, tannic backbone with firm grip and medium body. Full and ripe. Quite seductive. This is great stuff, punching way above its weight. 17/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2001: A really dark hue, but with a seam of maturity to the colour. The nose is deeply concentrated, with elements of maturing bitter fruit, dark bitter-sweet cherries, dark chocolate, smoke and coffee, and overall it comes across as very compact, still with a very intense, tightly-wound character. There are little notes of custard powder too, tar and aromatic floral notes, but also a soy-balsamic intensity. Very full in the mouth, rich and concentrated as the nose suggested, with a huge and very tangible solid substance to it. Great acidity, wonderful lift, with a slightly sour character to the fruit, smoky with tinges of cranberry and soot, with great defining acidity. Most notable we still have a very considerable seam of tannins here, very ripe with a great, velvety weight, less obvious through the midpalate but more gripping at the end. Long and very substantial. Bitter fruit finish. This is truly great wine, which needs years yet. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2011)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2001: A gloriously deep colour, with a complex and aromatic nose showing violets, dark fruits, tar, fine leather, minerals and a touch of mocha; this is lovely. Delightful weight and texture, exhibiting great depth and extract, and full, slightly tarry, grippy, serious midpalate, which has an air of elegance about it. Tannin-stained, lengthy finish. Superb wine, and a great success for the vintage. Will improve over 4-5 years minimum. 18.5+/20 (August 2005)

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2000: A very dark, purple-black. Quite closed on opening, and in fact it sulked for most of the evening. Occasionally showed little nuances of black cherry and black olive, with a touch of dirty barnyard. Fresh, crisp, with firm, zippy, obvious acidity. Medium body. Very decent tannic structure, with a savoury, drying finish. Did eventually open up to show some good flavour. I ended up liking this, although it's hard work, and I reserve judgement about future performance. I have had plenty of lesser 2000s though. 15.5/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2000: Close to opaque on inspection; there is plenty of pigment here! And a captivating nose, with slightly tarry, floral, smouldering hickory and roast meat, but with a minerally character as well. It doesn't have the texture or weight through the midpalate of the 2001, but although a little leaner it has no shortage of character or flavour. Roast black cherry fruit, with some mocha-chocolate on the slightly short finish, backed up by rather dry tannins. There are points of criticism here, but this is still lovely wine. Needs 3-4 years cellar time. 17+/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1999: Four years on from last tasting and there has been plenty of wonderful development here. The colour is deep, but showing maturity now, with its dusty purple-oxblood rim around a more glossy, richly coloured core. After that there is a panoply of delights, starting on the nose which gives fleeting elements of smoked meats, paprika, dusty sandalwood, black cherry and a little dark chocolate. Beautifully harmonious on entry, rich but perfectly poised, rounded and glossy, and showing plenty of texture and extract underneath too. A lot of substance here, some good grip especially in the finish, with more cherry and cranberry elements, along with a balsamic richness - thankfully without the acetic character. This is just brilliant; it gives so much more than I expected from my last tasting, and I have to admit it puts Felsina's Rancia to shame. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5+/20 (December 2009)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1999: Beginning to show a little maturity, but still a concentrated, deeply coloured wine. Roasted black cherries found here, with bacon and chocolate, and some appealing chalky-dusty notes. Cool, refreshing and balanced palate, with lovely extract and body. Still showing a little prominent tannic structure, and a little creaminess. But elegant and appealing. This is lovely. Certainly needs another 2-3 years before approaching again. 17.5+/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Not a hint of oxidation anywhere. The colour is maturing, still with a lot of red pigment but bricking a little at the rim, much darker at the core. And the nose is just delightful, full of sweet and leathery fruit spiced with elements of cloves, stewed black cherry and custard powder. The latter will no doubt raise an eyebrow or two, but it is a very typical aroma I find in Chianti from time to time. A very supple and gently composed palate, immediately showing great substance and texture through the midpalate, with smoky and leathery fruit well framed by robust acidity, a very flattering texture and a good vein of resolving tannins. There is still a good sense of extract here too, a tangible flesh to the wine, giving it a full, flattering and handsome although very dry style which I adore. And it is long too, very long indeed. What a joy - I am so glad I held back before reporting in order to try a truly representative bottle of this quite delicious wine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5/20 (April 2010)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: This wine takes a little time to open out and reveal where it really is right now, but it is certainly worth the wait. The colour is red-black, with a dusky maturing hue. It initially has a little volatility, but this blows off to reveal notes of custard - a Sangiovese trait - and dark fruits with a rather meaty, furry, savage-styled fruit. This fruit carried through onto the palate where it has a lovely presence, as the structure builds in grip, showing firm tannins on the midpalate. It has a broadness, but with the freshness of redcurrants, plums and cherries. There is a supple character and a well integrated composition. Although it is perhaps a touch brawny still, overall this is very nicely integrated and right now is simply delicious for drinking. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 18.5+/20 (December 2007)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Showing a little more maturity in appearance, and certainly a maturing fruit style on the nose, but with fine complexity. A medley of black cherry, black olive, leather, and a meaty, smoked bacon character act to entice. Good depth, slightly austere at the start, but opening out on the midpalate to reveal plenty of texture and flavour, but always with that appealing bitter cherry structure underneath. Lovely savoury style on the finish, with a lick of tannin. Still needs 1-2 years in the cellar to be fully ready, but excellent nevertheless. 18.5+/20 (May 2007)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Still showing a youthful hue at eight years old. Rather restrained nose showing, with a little time, some black pepper, black olives and smoked, spicy meats. Smoothly integrated palate, showing just lovely floral-tinged black olive fruit over a background of gentle, fading tannins. Sappy, with lovely extract, but with good composure. Great length too. This is simply delightful and approachable now, although will be even better in 2-3 years. 18.5+/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1995: Still a deep colour, despite now being ten years of age. The nose gives up aromas of dark and spicy fruits, with a little baked cherry quite noticeable. There's a lovely texture on entry, showing super, tangible extract; this is rich and mouth-filling, and possessive of fine structure and a firm, solid presence of maturing fruit. Good length too. This has impressive stamina, and although lovely now has further development to do I'm sure. 18+/20 (August 2005)

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1995: A lovely colour, still displaying the vibrant red-black hue of youth. The nose seems at first to be packed out with smoky, youthful, raspberry and cherry fruit, liquorice and wood, but with time aromas of grilled meats appear. Good fruit on the palate, which is initially dominated by considerable acidity. Some time in the glass soon heals this, however, as with aeration the palate fattens up and develops a good texture, and this is more than a match for the strong acidity. Smoked meat and charred, smouldering wood flavours alongside the fruit. Pleasant tannins. Considerable length. 18/20 (August 2002)