Home > Producer Profiles > Italian Profiles > Fattoria di Fèlsina

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Bottles come and go, fleeting moments that punctuate our lives, usually within the context of a tasting, a dinner or maybe even a celebration or party. Perhaps it is just that great bottles tend to come out for great occasions, but the context often has as much to do with the laying down of the memory as the wine. Those bottles that lodge themselves in the memory permanently (or at least until such faculties are lost through senility) in isolation of such events are rare, I find. Why is this relevant to a profile of Fattoria di Fèlsina? The answer is perhaps obvious; this estate was, a long time ago, years before I began writing on Winedoctor, the source of one such bottle, opened after returning home late one evening. It was a Chianti revelation for me, a wine stuffed with vibrant yet dark aromatics, and with a fresh lift on the palate that, after such rich aroma, was unexpected. More on that bottle later; first some background on the estate.

History

Fèlsina is an estate with ancient history; the fèl prefix denoting a word of Etruscan origin. The Etruscans, a pre-Roman civilisation of somewhat mysterious origins, inhabited central western Italy, and indeed the name for this region - Tuscany - is derived from Tusci, as the later Roman civilisation referred to the Etruscans. Although no-one is claiming that Fèlsina was established by an Etruscan vigneron in the 8th century BC, which is when the civilisation first appeared, there is well over a millennium of occupation and agriculture at Fèlsina. For much of its life though what was grown here was wheat, olives and other crops, viticulture a small part of the overall activity. It has also for many centuries served as a lodge, staffed by Benedictine monks, who provided some respite for weary travellers making their way north or south; the name of the estate's most famous vineyard and wine, Rancia, is derived from grancia, the name for such a roadside inn. The monks worked in association with the staff at the nearby Santa Maria della Scala hospital in Siena, a huge complex of Medieval buildings opposite the duomo, with its imposing gothic facade.

Putting ancient history to one side, Fèlsina's modern story begins in 1966 with its purchase by Domenico Poggiali. The expansive estate, which today accounts for 475 hectares of the Tuscan countryside, had only 2.5 hectares of vines though, so even at this very recent point in time viticulture was a sideline. Domenico and his son Beppe set about expanding the vineyard and improving the winemaking facilities, but it was only with the arrival of Giuseppe Mazzocolin that winemaking really took off. A teacher by training, Giuseppe married Domenico's daughter, Gloria, and soon found himself drawn into the running of the estate. In 1982 he engaged the services of Franco Bernabei, the same traditionally-minded consultant who has brought so much success to Fontodi,, and more than three decades on Giuseppe and Franco are still at the helm, improving, innovating and pushing for quality wherever possible.

The Fèlsina Vineyards

The estate is located in the most south-eastern part of the Chianti Classico zone, just on the left as you head north out of Castelnuovo Berardenga, and just a stone's throw from Siena itself. The altitude of the Fèlsina vineyards peaks with a sandstone outcrop at 420m. The soils are generally typical of the Chianti region, there being galestro (a schisty-shale, a form of compacted clay) although this is not as predominant as albarese (a limestone and clay soil with plenty of rocks), although some vineyards include some heavier clay soils, lending more body to the final product. This is particularly true of the soils beyond the boundary of the Chianti Classico zone, which runs through the Fèlsina estate, giving Giuseppe and Franco not only some soils very suitable for Sangiovese, but also some perhaps better suited to international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

The main period of vineyard expansion came in the early 1980s, under the guidance of Franco Bernabei; Giuseppe and the Poggiali family maintained a focus on Sangiovese although, as perhaps suggested by my prior comments concerning terroir,, Cabernet Sauvignon also made an appearance. And the expansion went beyond the limits of Fèlsina, with the acquisition of the Pagliarese estate in 1995; these vineyards allowed for some replanting at Fèlsina, Pagliarese providing fruit in the interim. More recently Giuseppe Mazzocolin has also acquired Castello di Farnetella, in the Colli Senesi.

The vineyards are managed by Agostino Buracchi, who has overseen the new plantings at Fèlsina. The Sangiovese vines were propagated using massal selection, the planting density was increased to 5435 vines per hectare, and the total area committed to the vine rose to 61 hectares. Alongside the Sangiovese and the Cabernet Sauvignon, there is also Trebbiano, Chardonnay (which was grafted onto pre-existing Trebbiano vines) and a number of other varieties. The slopes of the vineyard are generally orientated south-southwest, the vines Guyot trained, with summer-time canopy management in the form of leaf plucking, and a green harvest in August if required, before hand harvesting when the fruit is ripe.

The Wines of Fattoria di Fèlsina

With a focus on Sangiovese the two most noteworthy wines here are without a doubt the single-vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva from the Rancia vineyard, and the Chianti-Sienese Sangiovese blend Fontalloro.

This is sourced from a 6-hectare vineyard of typical Chianti soils, mainly albarese but with areas of sandstone and alluvial pebbles mixed in, all well within the Chianti Classico zone. This particular site sits about 400 metres above sea level and has a south-facing exposure. The older vines date back to 1958, although more recent plantings were made, using massal selection, up to 1982; the first vintage was, I believe, 1985. The planting density is 5435 vines per hectare, and the yield a conservative 40-45 hl/ha. The fruit is picked by hand, destemmed and pressed, followed by fermentation regulated to 28-30ºC with pigeage to submerge the solids. After about two weeks of maceration the wine foes into oak barriques for between 12 and 18 months, the blending occurring right at the end of the process.

Rancia is, in my opinion, not just the estate's leading wine, but also one of Tuscany's premier wines, challenging any Sangiovese, be it Chianti, Brunello or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, on a matter of quality. Others would perhaps place the IGT Fontalloro over the Rancia though; although I confess I could do with more tasting experience before making any judgement of real value, and so for me Rancia remains the 'go-to' wine at Fèlsina.

This is an unusual wine to find in the portfolio of one of the leading estates of Chianti Classico, in that it is a 100% Sangiovese blend of Classico and Colli Senesi fruit; the former comes from the Fontalloro or Poggio al Sole vineyard, albarese vineyards, whereas the latter comes from the Casalino and Arcidossino vineyards, where the soils are much heavier clays. This means it is neither Chianti Classico nor Chianti Colli Senesi, and when it was introduced in 1983 it was designated a lowly vino da tavola; today it is labelled as Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT), of course

The vineyards sit at about 400 metres above sea level, and face southwest, affording good views over Siena and more distant lands to the south. The vines are typically over 50 years old, planted at 5435 vines per hectare, and trained in the Guyot method again. The fruit is picked by hand and, once in the winery, it is handled in much the same way as that of the Rancia Riserva.

Although there are other examples of Chianti, not least the rather attractive straight Chianti Classico and a Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva, as well as the barrel-fermented Chardonnay I Sistri and rather brighter and cleaner Trebbiano blend Pepestrino (shown below), and of course Vin Santo, from Malvasia, Trebbiano and Sangiovese, the third wine perhaps worthy of more detail is the Maestro Raro.

Maestro Raro is Fèlsina's version of Cabernet Sauvignon, and quite a stern and austere version it is. The fruit comes from the Maestro Raro and Il Poggiolo vineyards, within which Cabernet Sauvignon was grafted onto all manner of vines including Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Malvasia, a project which began in 1984. The terroir is by now familiar, sandstone and albarese with alluvial pebbles, the vines planted at a density of 5435 per hectare and the harvest is by hand. Where the fermentation differs is in the maceration, which is slightly longer at close to three weeks, with between 14 and 18 months in oak.

Tasting and Drinking Fèlsina

As I alluded in my introduction Fèlsina has yielded one of those great bottles, a wine that seems to have lodged itself in my memory for ever. It was that savoury substance, that twist of roasted meat and gamey black olive that really impressed, perhaps because at the time I was less familiar with such wild and savoury substance. Then, on the palate, lift and freshness, balance and charm - words which I think I failed to bring forth at the time, as my experience with wine had not been sufficiently long for me to develop this vocabulary. But such was the impact of the wine that, even now, I can still taste it in my mind, and I can retrospectively apply these comments.

Character like that is increasingly hard to find in today's wine world, as more and more wineries turn out 'perfect' wines with sweet and glossy fruit; such knowledge only serves to make the memory of that bottle even more special of course. Remarkably, the vintage in question was not one that we would readily identify as one of the greatest of recent years for the wines of Tuscany; it was the 1994 Rancia Riserva (there are more detailed although now dated tasting notes on this wine below, from other bottles that came after Winedoctor was born), a vintage that would usually fade into the shadows cast by much more renowned years such as 1997, 1999, 2001 and 2004. But is this not the mark of a great estate, where it is not just the grand vintages that seduce you, but those from the lesser years as well?

Since that early encounter with Fèlsina I have tasted a number of wines and vintages from this estate, but always with a focus on the Rancia Riserva. The Chardonnay and other wines may not always excite; I find, based on my limited experience, the Tuscan climate does not lend much interest to Chardonnay, especially when it is a sweet, fat, barrel-fermented style such as here at Fèlsina. I prefer the leaner but perhaps less 'characterful' Pepestrino, based on the old workhorse Trebbiano, as at least it has vigour and freshness. But it is Chianti that should draw us towards Fèlsina, and for Rancia especially in my opinion; it is this wine that keeps Fèlsina riding high within the top tier of Chianti producers. (9/9/02, updated 23/2/06, 26/10/11)

Contact details:
Address: Strada Chiantigiana 484, Castelnuovo Berardenga
Telephone: +39 057 735 5117
Fax: +39 057 735 5651
Internet: www.felsina.it
GPS: 43.349654, 11.500977

Fattoria di Fèlsina - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Fattoria di Fèlsina Pepestrino Bianco di Toscana IGT 2009: This is a blend dominated by Trebbiano, accounting for 70%, with 15% each Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the fruit from Pagliarese, north of Fèlsina. Fermented in stainless steel. Fresh and lively on the nose, with clean fruit, this has an appealing lift. The palate has a fresh and pithy fruit character, with an attractively bitter streak. A moderate weight, defined, straightforward but I like the definition and this is undoubtedly fine for warm weather drinking. Alcohol 13%. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 15/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2008: This is 100% Sangiovese from vines of at least 50 years of age in the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Fermented at 28-30ºC with punch-down, followed by small and medium-sized oak barrels for 12 months. This looks tired in the glass already, and the aromatic profile matches my first impression, being full of balsamic notes and caramel sur-maturité. The palate holds no surprises, with plenty of grippy tannins and low acidity, but as the nose suggested it lacks fruit freshness and definition. This is not in a good place right now; looking at my note from a previous tasting in February 2011, I wonder if this sample just isn't a little tired. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 13.5/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2008: A very appealing fresh but deep and slightly dusty hue here. Bright and fresh fruit character on the nose here, delicious red berries mixed with custard powder, all very expressive and defined. The palate is medium bodied at best, certainly lighter than expected, with a rather stony-steely feel to the fruit at first. rather a classic style on the nose and gentle and reserved on the palate. Not a blockbuster but full of typicity and should give plenty of pleasure given a year or two. From a 2011 Liberty Wines tasting. 16/20 (February 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina I Sistro Bianco di Toscana IGT 2007: This is 100% Chardonnay, fermented in new oak, with a subsequent élevage between 6 and 8 months, also in new oak. The nose certainly has a 'fat' feel to it, with plenty of barrel-ferment character and super-ripe fruit, moving through the tropical fruit spectrum into over-ripe, toffee-tinged melon. In the mouth it is unsurprisingly soft and fat, the acidity there insufficient for my palate, unable to cope with the weighty, glycerine-oiliness. One for lovers of fat and oaky wines. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 13/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 2007: This is 100% Sangiovese from the Rància vineyard, and it has seen out between 18 and 22 months in oak. The fruit has a polished feel aromatically, with an overlay of oak, showing a creamy, plum-liqueur character tinged with black olive. It still seems very youthful and primary, sweet and ripe, but it certainly holds lots of promise I think. The palate is supple and yet substantial, polished, with plenty of grippy, powerful tannins. There is some firm acidity which dominates here and through in to the finish, where the tannins show a smoothly textured quality. A wine with really great potential I think. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 17.5/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2006: The aroma of Pontefract cakes here, liquorice and charred oak. The palate is rather soft focus, fleshy but with a grippy palate. Chewy, mouth-filling, soft. Certainly interesting, this has at least the potential to be very good, although beyond that I find it a little difficult to judge today. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5-16.5+?/20 (February 2009)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2006: This has a lovely glossy appearance. Nevertheless, there is little expression on the nose at the moment, just a faint seam of meaty fruit. On the palate though there is plenty of evidence of quality, It has a good weight and a very appealing structure at its core, where there is a lot of ripe but grippy tannin. It has a very firm character, but laid on top is a blanket of bright and lifted fruit. Good acid backbone. There is good potential here, but this needs time, two or three years at least. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 2006: Tasted at the rather over-priced Mirabelle restaurant in Rome. Despite being served by a tastevin-wearing sommelier, this young and oaky wine (a problem with restaurant lists, especially one such as this which focuses only on grand labels, omitting more affordable bottles which would probably drink better now) was - to my surprise and disappointment - not even decanted. With some time it does display touches of cranberry fruit and bitter chocolate, but the smoky oak still dominates. The palate is nicely structured, mildly austere in terms of acid backbone and middleweight substance, but it is very typical of the appellation and it is perfect with food. A ripe and mild-mannered tannic backbone. Overall, too young to give real pleasure now, but will be superb in five years (and the rest). 18+/20 (March 2010)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Maestro Raro Toscana IGT 2006: This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maestro Raro and Il Poggiolo vineyards, fermented in stainless steel, followed by élevage in new oak. On inspection it has a dark, dense and rather matt hue. Aromatically I find it really rather appealing, quite distinct from the Sangiovese wines and yet not immediately typical of Cabernet Sauvignon either. There are scents of black olive, dark fruit skins, plum and smoky black cherry especially, but all with a bitter bite rather than fruit sweetness. The palate also has some soft, bitter, olive-based fruit suggestions, is certainly fleshy, but underneath there is a very firm tannic grip. Unfortunately these tannins do seem to completely dominate the latter moments of the palate, lasting right through the finish and clinging on for dear life long after any suggestions of fruit have long faded. Nevertheless, there are elements here worthy of praise. Alcohol 14.5%. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 15.5/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 2004: This is Fèlsina's flagship wine, and one that has been adorable in previous vintages, and the 2004 doesn't disappoint - although the price seems to be continuing its upward trend. Dense fruit, liquorice, slightly tarry, certainly rich with a promising depth. Lots of cherry and plum fruit on the palate, backed up by piles of structure and tannins. Fresh, not roasted, but deep and impressively structured, with lots of grip and a huge finish. Great length. Excellent potential. From a tasting with Woodwinters. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Fontalloro Toscana IGT 2004: This is also 100% Sangiovese, the major difference here being the soils, as some fruit comes from clay terroirs outside the Chianti Classico zone which is of course dominated by galestro and albarese. There is certainly evidence of evolution here, in keeping with the wine's seven years. There are some notes of mature, autumnal, stewed black olives, along with some soft, rather gentle, rather rounded-off fruit. The same style comes through on the palate, bringing a rather diffuse impression. It has a rather gentle style. There are some attractive elements here but overall this lacks weight and definition. From a tasting of Fèlsina and Fonterutoli wines. 14.5/20 (July 2011)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 2002: Very deep colour. Very youthful, and rather restrained as a result, giving little on the nose other than some pleasing dark fruits. On the palate, it shows wonderful texture, extract and structure, although at present the complexity and finesse this cuvée is so rightly popular for has yet to show. But it is brimming with good potential for the future. Leave well alone for five years as a minimum. 17.5+/20 (September 2005)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2000: Good, deep colour. Smoky, charred meat and roasted berry nose. A sense of freshness, which carries through onto the palate, helped by correct acids. This alone sets this apart from a number of other 2000s I have tasted. Just a hint of polyphenol influence to the texture, nice extract, and fresh, ripe, firm fruit. 16/20 (September 2005)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 1999: The first bottle was completely dead - perhaps low-level cork taint? The second was fortunately much better. The colour is quite dark, but showing some mature tones. The nose has a subtle and harmonious elegance, with cherries rubbed over quiet notes of spiced sandalwood. A gentle start on the palate, showing pretty firm acidity through the middle, with a seam of smoky meat. The structure is rather extreme, that acidity I have already mentioned plus a rather soft, slightly unfocused texture. It lacks precision, definition - there is, however, something very fine about it, a supple, seamless style which is extremely appealing. There's some grip at the finish though, and it has considerable length. Although I'm not quite so enamoured or confident as I was at my last tasting this wine still has more to offer I think, and if it firms up it could be superb. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17-17.5?/20 (December 2009)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 1999: Lovely, deep colour. On the nose, smoked, macerated black cherries, black olives, hints of savoury sun-dried tomatoes. Rich palate, displaying impeccable balance. Packed with mineral, cherry, tomato and bacon flavour, still showing just a little oak, although this is negligible. Lovely extract, very pure overall, with some elegance coming through. Emerging complexity here. Grippy finish and great length. This is marvellous, and has such potential. 18.5+/20 (September 2005)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 1999: A fairly deep, garnet red hue. Quite expressive on the nose at first, throwing around dark fruit aromas, but with minutes it closes down, leaving a delightful scent of black olives hiding behind a rubbery mask. Notes of wood polish suggest the presence of some volatile acids. Later some black cherry notes appear. Full bodied on the palate, with good extract, and powerful acidity, with tannins taking a position in the background. Towards the finish the black olive and dark fruit character really builds, with some good fatness. With time real weight and a sweet, smoky character develops, although this remains very much tempered by the acidity.  The finish hides an acidic kick. Lovely stuff. 17/20 (September 2002)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 1994: A fading red hue, a touch tawny at the rim, but with no other sign of age. Grilled meats on the nose, with chalky, smoky, firm berry fruit. There's also a suggestion of volatile acids. The palate is medium bodied, with a sweet, rounded texture, together with some intense, freshly acidic fruit. Lovely, firm tannins, more apparent on the finish, giving great structure. Delicious, stylish stuff, that has come together really well since I last tasted it, and it gets better with every glass. 18/20 (September 2002)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 1994: Two bottles consumed within a few months of one another. A deep purple colour with a hint of tawny at the rim. Some initial bottle stink quickly blows away, and the nose develops complex aromas of coffee, tea and oak, with some red and black fruits. The palate has prickling yet gentle acidity, and soft tannins. Wonderfully balanced. Round, black fruit flavours, black pepper, with herb notes. Medium bodied. Lovely finish - a delightful wine. The latter bottle had a lovely, inky purple black. Bags of toasty oak on the nose, with rich blackberry and blackcurrant aromas. The palate is full bodied, with rich plum and blackberry fruit, more toasty oak, very fine, grainy, just integrated tannins, and spot-on acidity. A superb, mouth filling texture, and an elegant finish. Superb wine, and so much richer than my last bottle. 18/20 (November 2000)