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Badia a Coltibuono

The Badia a Coltibuono estate, located at the eastern edge of the Chianti Classico zone, originates from the 11th Century. It was established as an monastery by monks from a reform of the Benedictine order in Tuscany, known as the Vallombrosans. Like all good religious orders they progressively expanded their estate (and hence their coffers), and they planted much of what they owned with vines. Over the centuries, the monks of Coltibuono built up their landholdings to several hundred hectares, but this was all lost during the secularisation of the monastery in 1810, when Tuscany was under the rule of Napoleon.

The estate was sold by lottery to Guido Guintini, whose descendants continue to run the winery today. Guido's great-great-grandson Roberto Stucchi-Prinetti, an oenologist by training with Californian experience, is currently in charge aided by sister Emanuela, who heads up marketing and PR, brother Paolo, who runs the on-site restaurant, and their mother who oversees a school of Italian cookery here. No doubt the atmospheric old monastery is a wonderful setting for these activities, but the family no doubt felt the winemaking facilities to be constrictive, as a new winery has been their most recent project.

Although Roberto has the oenological experience, it was Emanuela Stucchi-Prinetti, the first female president of the Marchio Storico del Chianti Classico, the regional consorzio responsible for marketing, who was instrumental in revitalising the portfolio at Badia a Coltibuono. A major advance was to divide the range into Coltibuono, using bought-in fruit, and the Badia a Coltibuono wines, which are made using estate-grown fruit - although I should point out that the 50 ha of vineyards are actually 15 km from the monastery, so perhaps 'estate-grown' is not quite the right term. The principal wines in the Coltibuono range include Cancelli, using grapes from across Tuscany, Cetamura, using grapes from across the Chianti region, and a Chianti Classico RS, these being the initials of Roberto Stucchi-Prinetti. The Badia a Coltibuono range includes a Chianti Classico and Riserva, a second Classico called Cultus Boni where 80% Sangiovese is blended with Merlot, Colorino and Cilieglio, and an IGT Sangioveto, 100% Sangiovese. And, of course, a Vin Santo. There are also oils, vinegars and grappa.

The philosophy at Badia a Coltibuono seems to one of tradition; Roberto Stucchi-Prinetti favours the indigenous varieties over international ones, and he adheres to the traditional Chianti blend, now dominated by Sangiovese, but completed by Canaiolo, although as recently as the 18th Century the latter was the dominant grape in the mix. Canaiolo was particularly useful as it was resistant to rot as it dried, prior to governo (from governo alla toscana); this technique involves adding the juice of dried grapes to a fermented wine, the aim being to encourage the malolactic fermentation, to soften the wine for earlier consumption. Now that alternatives for encouraging malolactic exist, and the image of Chianti has changed from cheap quaffing wine to a more serious, often ageworthy style, one wonders why anyone would continue using Canaiolo in the blend, as it adds little to the quality of the final wine. This is what I found myself thinking as I tasted the range which, whilst solid and drinkable (in the case of the estate-produced wines, at least, I was not enamoured with those made from purchased fruit), failed to excite. This was a shame, and in contrast with some previous experiences, and may reflect the vintages shown, the 2000 (difficult) and 2003 (heatwave, many wines are unbalanced). (15/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: 53013 Gaiole in Chianti
Telephone: +39 0577 74481
Fax: +39 0577 749235
Internet: www.coltibuono.com

Badia a Coltibuono - Tasting Notes

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2004

Coltibuono Cetemura Chianti 2004: This is the entry-level Chianti, and is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Purchased fruit. It has a withdrawn, rather herby nose which leads on to a rather lean, soft palate of rather confected fruit. This is bistro wine, for current drinking only. 14/20 (November 2005)

2003

Coltibuono Cancelli Rosso Toscana 2003: An unusual blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Syrah, all bought-in fruit, this wine has a dark, glossy hue. One the nose it currently displays some very sweet, primary, rather confected fruit which is more Syrah in character than Sangiovese. Rather simple on the palate, lean, but with some nice dry fruit character. Short finish. This is uncomplicated drinking. 15/20 (November 2005)

Coltibuono Chianti Classico RS 2003: The most basic Classico in the portfolio, made from purchased fruit. Soft, ripe, plump fruit suggested on the nose, and a similar softness of fruit on the palate. This lacks acidity, a hallmark of the vintage, and although not overblown it would benefit from more impact and precision on the palate. I think this is merely a slightly superior bistro wine. For current drinking. 14.5/20 (November 2005)

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2003: Made from estate-grown fruit, organically tended since 2003, this is again 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Riper, more supple fruit on the nose, but not a huge character. Soft, open, easy-drinking style on the palate, with some pleasant fruit. Plenty of tannin, and low acidity, but that's 2003! An improvement on the wine from purchased fruit, but not memorable otherwise. Short-term drinking. 15/20 (November 2005)

2000

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2000: This wine has a moderate intensity of colour, a bright and vibrant red. The nose has black olives, with floral and tarry notes, and plenty of sweet cherry fruit. Medium bodied and full of sweet fruit on the palate, with fair acidity and a low level of soft, sweet and chewy tannins. Good, mouthfilling weight. A great pasta wine, ready to drink now. 15.5/20 (October 2002) Label

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 2000: The same Sangiovese/Canaiolo blend, from estate-grown fruit, the vines aged 25 to 50 years, restricted yields, and two years in French and Austrian oak. This has a good colour, and there are some appealing, nervous black fruits on the nose. Midweight palate, on the lean side, but a nice presence nevertheless, and good flavour. Little sense of tannin, but nicely poised in the mouth. A decent effort from a weaker vintage. Drinking over the next 2-3 years. 15.5+/20 (November 2005)

Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto 2000: This is 100% Sangiovese which sees twelve months in oak, one third of which is new. This has more depth on the nose than the other wines, with some Sangiovese-style fruit and a nutty nuance. There is a nice presence on the palate, with good substance and a good seam of tannin. This has quite decent persistence through to the finish. Another decent wine, but are these two really the leading wines of the Badia a Coltibuono portfolio? 16+/20 (November 2005)

1999

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 1999: A glossy red purple wine. Loads of berry fruit on the nose, with blackcurrant to the fore. Dense, chewy and youthful fruit on the palate, with a fresh, crunchy edge, crisp acidity and peppery tannins showing through on the finish. Needs time. 16.5/20 (November 2001)

Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo 1999: A fresh, open nose, with notes of oranges, very much in an oxidative-toffee-oak style. Very rich in flavour, barley sugar notes, ripe and firm, but with very good acidity. This is an appealing and attractive example of the style. If only the Chiantis were this good. 17/20 (November 2005)

1985

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1985: At first glance the colour was not too promising, the first few drops showing a very mature brown hue as they enter the glass. But when a decent portion has been poured, and the wine held up to the light, there is in fact still a good number of red tones here. The core has a deep, red, oxblood, mahogany hue, fading out to an orange-tawny-pink rim. And the nose is just fine. There is a lot of old undergrowth and earthy aromas, over a meaty-sweet roasted persona, secondary characteristics that might come with any old wine, but there are little notes which suggest Chianti more than these, nuances of oranges, faint dried-out coffee grounds and most of all a vein of custard powder, which sounds peculiar but it is something I have encountered before in the few elderly bottles of Sangiovese that have passed my lips. Still appealingly fresh on the palate, cool and well-defined, round, still quite grippy which is impressive, and thus nicely although perhaps rather robustly structured. It has a good texture though, although it perhaps dries out on the finish where the tannin shows in a somewhat more obvious fashion. Good meaty flavour, although it too dies away more quickly than you might otherwise expect. Nevertheless, overall very pleasant indeed. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (September 2007)