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Aldo Conterno

Aldo Conterno is one of what is perhaps Barolo's premier winemaking dynasty. His father was Giacomo Conterno, one of the stalwarts of the region, but rather than join his brother, Giovanni, in the running of the family estate, Aldo struck out on his own in 1969. There is a strong contrast between the two men; Giovanni is staunchly traditionalist, and continues to turn out benchmark Barolo under the Giacomo Conterno label, whereas Aldo is a more affable character, well known, liked and respected in the region. His wines are fine examples of the Nebbiolo grape, and although they differ in style from those of his brother, it would be wrong to describe them as anything other than traditional Barolo.

Aldo Conterno operates from Bussia, in the village Monforte d’Alba, at the heart of the Barolo region. Aldo, now aided by his three sons Franco, Stefano and Giacomo, tends 25 ha of vines which for the most part surround the family home. This vineyard sits at an altitude of around 400 m, with a terroir of calcareous marl alternating with layers of sand. There are also, however, three cru vineyards on the famed Bussia slope in Monforte d’Alba, one of the jewels of the Barolo vineyards. These three are Romirasco, Cicala and Colonnello, south and southwest facing slopes on clay-calcareous soils, peppered with elements of iron, and the fruit harvested here gives rise to the estate's three single vineyard flagship wines, although they may also be blended into a single bottling depending on the quality of the vintage. All the fruit is vinified using temperature controlled stainless steel vats, followed by large, traditional Slavonian oak casks for the Barolo, and French oak barriques for the other wines.

The Aldo Conterno portfolio starts as follows:

• Barolo Granbussia: A blend of the three Bussia cru vineyards, in proportions usually approximating to 70% Romirasco with 15% each of Cicala and Colonnello, depending on the vintage. The wines are fermented and aged in wood separately, before blending in stainless steel where it is held for up to two years, and subsequent bottling. It will then be held back in the cellar for six years before release.
• Barolo Romirasco: This vineyard contains vines of about 50 years of age, predominantly the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo (the balance being the Michet clone; the Rosé clone is not found on the Aldo Conterno estate). It sees Slavonian oak for up to 28 months.
• Barolo Cicala: The Cicala ('balm-cricket') vines are of a similar age, also mainly Lampia, and the wine here also goes into Slavonian oak for up to 28 months.
• Barolo Colonnello: The vines here are 35-40 years old, and Michet is the dominant clone. The vinification and ageing of the wine, however, does not differ from Romirasco or Cicala.
• Barolo Bussia Soprana: Probably the most widely seen and appreciated wine, this is the entry-level Barolo. It comes from sites other than the three cru vineyards, with vines aged at least 20 years.

There is much more of note here than Barolo, however, and the barrique aged Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile is certainly worthy of mention. This is a benchmark Barbera produced from fruit grown on the hillsides of Bussia Soprana, harvested from vines at least 45 years old. It is an extremely attractive example of the style which I have enjoyed, and I think it well worth seeking out. The Dolcetto d'Alba Il Masante can also be good. There is a notable young vines cuvée of Nebbiolo called Il Favot, and a Nebbiolo dominated blend Quartetto, the balance being Barbera, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The white wines are both Chardonnay, aged en barrique (Bussiador) and in stainless steel (Printanié).

Barolo and Barbera are both wines I have enjoyed in the past, but nevertheless I am aware that this region is not one that I have an extensive knowledge of, especially when compared to those where I have a more fervent interest, such as Bordeaux, the Loire, Germany and so on. Nevertheless, it is not difficult to assess the quality present in these wines. I recently tasted through a selection of wines from the range with Franco Conterno, who has taken on the role of winemaker; the reds started with the Barbera d'Alba, and continuing up to the blended flagship Barolo Granbussia, all these wines had something to offer. I must confess that my first taste of the white Bussiador, however, I found less than enthralling, thanks to the assault of new oak that it demonstrated. This is something that seems to plague many Italian Chardonnays, and perhaps the oak-free Printanié would be more to my taste. (30/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: Bussia 48, 12065 Monforte d'Alba
Telephone: +39 0173 78150
Fax: +39 0173 787240
Internet: www.poderialdoconterno.com

Aldo Conterno - Tasting Notes

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Aldo Conterno Barolo 2004: A sweet cherry perfume here, otherwise this is giving very little away at the moment. Very nicely polished, smoothly presented, with a gentle substance. Elegant, before revealing a greater firmness through the midpalate, where there is a reserved texture and tannic grip. There is a lot of lovely, savoury character to it, and a firm and well delineated style. Very good indeed; lots of potential here. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2001: This is 100% Chardonnay, aged in oak. This is immediately apparent on the very oaky nose, which demonstrates a gaudy butterscotch and honey edge to the toasty, lime and lemon curd fruit. A fat, creamy style on the palate, very international, but I must confess I do find it flavoursome. But probably tiresome to drink. 15/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile 2001: Rather leafy fruit here, with animalistic overtones. I find this appealing. Full, very structured fruit on the palate, showing a ripe, full texture and some attractively supple tannins. Good acidic backbone too. Very good indeed. 16.5/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot 2001: Dark, leathery fruit, spiced with cinnamon. Full and structured, but showing a little elegance in terms of structure and balance. Ripe and spicy tannin gives this wine a very firm presence on the palate. This would benefit from another 2-3 years in bottle. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 2001: The entry-level Barolo. A fairly pale orange-tinged hue. Leathery spice on the nose, and a very structured style on the palate, demonstrating firm tannins and good acidity. The fruit has a supple style that suggests an evolving, elegant texture. This has very good potential, but is style rather backward; I would suggest this needs several years in the cellar. 17+/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala 2001: A single vineyard bottling from Bussia slopes. A fairly pale colour, a ripe cherry red with a pink-orange tinge. Very open and expressive nose, animal fur, spices, roast nuts and leather. Very succulent and appealing on the palate, showing integrating tannins and a good texture. Spice and animal complexity, with a real flourish of character on the finish. Great stuff, but also needs a little time. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Dolcetto d'Alba 2000: A lovely vibrant red, with an obvious purple tinge denoting youth. Dense black cherry fruit on the nose, with some meaty, gamy notes on the side. There are also some rustic, animal, farmyard aromas, with a metallic edge - suggestive perhaps of some Brettanomyces? On the palate the wine is medium bodied, but quite structured and with good extract. There are some soft, slightly chalky tannins, although these seem to have a little more muscle on the finish, and are quite drying. Fresh acidity and good fruit, leading to a savoury, chewy finish. This is quite a serious example of Dolcetto. 16/20 (June 2003) Label

Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala 2000: An earlier vintage; a slightly less vibrant wine, although with the same pink-orange tinge. A more smoky, meaty style, but with that same savage animalistic character. Very true to type. A grippy, structured, masculine style on the palate, with piles of tannin and a resulting firm finish. A very good wine, just brimming with potential for development. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Aldo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile 1999: The colour shows a touch of maturity. High toned volatile components on the nose, with aromas of leather armchairs, ripe but acidic cherry fruit and root liquorice. Smoothly textured on the palate, backed by sharp acidity and soft ripe tannins. Rounded, barrel matured mouthfeel. Rich, good extract, mouthfilling, with quite bit of grip. Sweet and balanced finish. 16/20 (June 2003) Label

Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia 1998: The blend of cru vineyards. Another lovely colour here, a fine, maturing hue. A superb nose, redolent of dried fruits, leather, cinnamon and other spices, dried orange peel and more. Medium bodied, just showing a little texture, but quite a withdrawn and gentle presence on the palate. Elegant and balanced, just a little tannin and grip still to resolve. A fresh, spiced finish. This is excellent, and more approachable now than the two Cicalas, although I suspect they will be the greater wines with time. This should also, however, continue to improve over the coming years. 18+/20 (November 2005)

Aldo nterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 1994: Showing obvious maturity, but still with a good depth of colour. On the nose there are sweet and spicy macerated black fruits, overlaid with perfumed leather, with an acetone volatility lifting the aromas. Elegant, medium bodied, balanced palate, with some spicy tannins providing structure. Nice weight on the palate and a touch of sweetness. Drinking well now, but should integrate more over the next couple of years when it will be at peak. 17+/20 (September 2003) Label