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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
The
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt estate originates from the 14th Century, when the von
Kesselstatt family, having not long moved to the region, purchased their first
vineyard in 1349. Early records indicate that the family had close links with
local nobility, with Johann von Kesselstatt and his son Friedrich I both taking
on important roles. In 1394 Friedrich was named court sommelier, overseeing
activities in the royal vineyards and cellars. With such good service it should
perhaps come as no surprise that in 1776 the family was elevated to the level of
Reichsgrafen (equivalent to a count).
Although the family claim a history of viticultural activity that stretches back for more than six centuries, the Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt estate that exists today really originated in the 19th Century, when the family purchased four former monasteries, complete with extensive vineyard portfolios, between 1854 and 1889. The estate was ran from the impressive Palais Kesselstatt until 1999 when the new owner, Günther Reh, who made his purchase in 1978, moved operations to Schloss Marienlay in the Ruwer Valley. The Palais Kesselstatt was restored, and now serves as a restaurant and wine bar.
The
Reh family, in the shape of Annegret Reh-Gartner and her husband Gerhard
Gartner, still run the estate today. Manager and winemaker Wolfgang Mertes
vinifies the fruit of 36 hectares of vines which are scattered across some of
the most renowned vineyards along the Mosel and, unusually, also along both
tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer. The jewel in their crown is perhaps the
Josephshöfer vineyard, a 4.8 hectare monastic site located in the Mosel
village of Graach, alongside the Domprobst and Himmelreich vineyards. Germany,
like Burgundy, has a good number of vineyards which have been owned and tended
by religious orders and in both cases these tend to be the most ancient and best
documented; Josephshöfer is no exception, first appearing in monastic records
around the 10th Century. It was owned by St Martins Abbey in Trier for more than
a millennium and possibly much longer than that, as 12th Century documents claim
the abbey had been gifted the vineyard by a local philanthropist in 596.
Nevertheless the Merteshof vineyard, as it was then known, was sold by auction
during the French occupation of the region in 1803. It was purchased by Matthias
Joseph Hayn, who passed it onto his son-in-law, who subsequently sold it to the
Kesselstatt Reichsgrafen in 1858, and it remains in the sole ownership of this
estate today. The soils are classic Devonian slate interspersed with a fine
earth, and with a gradient of 70%, impressive but not that uncommon for this
section of the Mosel; the wines are said to be rich and peachy.
Other sites owned by the Kesselstatt estate are spread throughout the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, beginning with a few rows of vines in the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard, behind the village of Bernkastel. This is Germany's most famous vineyard, in size less than two hectares all told, although the vineyard boundaries have changes considerably over the years thanks to the ill thought-out 1971 German Wine Law. There is also one quarter of a hectare of Kesselstatt vines in the Brauneberger Juffer Sonneuhr vineyard, opposite Brauneberg, and a few in the Graacher Domprobst site, and about one third of a hectare in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard. The final two Mosel plots are slightly further upstream in two of Piesport's leading vineyards, Domherr and Goldtröpfchen. The latter is the more extensive, an amphitheatre of vines facing largely south, with grey slate soils running down to the Mosel at a gradient of 60%; the Kesselstatt estate holdings includes 4.5 hectares of this vineyard. Domherr, meanwhile, is a smaller site, steep and rocky, encircled by the Goldtröpfchen vines.
In
the Saar, the Kesselstatt estate is notable for being one of the more
significant producers of wines from the slate-endowed Scharzhofberg
vineyard. This vineyard has been linked with Weingut
Egon Müller for centuries, but one should not forget that classic examples
of the laser-like but well endowed Scharzhofberger style are available from
other estates, such as Kesselstatt. In addition there are wines from
Oberemmeler Bach, Wiltinger Braunfels which abuts the Scharzhofberg
vineyard but has more loam alongside the slate, and Wiltinger Gottesfuss.
In the Ruwer valley both Kaseler Nies'chen, largely regarded as one of the
Ruwer's prime sites, and the Devonian slate of the Kehrnagel vineyard also play
host to Kesselstatt vines.
Judging Kesselstatt in the context of all German wine shows that, although not really premier league, the wines are, in my limited experience, very good examples of the type; in particular the Scharzhofberger is a fine introduction to the vineyard's character at a very affordable price. They can also age very well, all styles but particularly the richer Auslese and Auslese Goldkapsels, and I confess that I have plenty in the cellar to match those presented below. (6/5/02, update 17/10/06)
Contact details:
Address: Schloss Marienlay, 54317 Morscheid
Telephone: +49 (0) 6500 91690
Fax: +49 (0) 6500 916969
Internet:
www.kesselstatt.com
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt - Tasting Notes
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2002:
Quite a vibrant pale straw gold with an obvious green tinge. On the nose, there
is a strong lime and steel character, but with a suggestion of a creamy, mealy
richness too. The palate follows on from this, precise and with a spritzy
vivacity at first, then showing a firm, steely linearity through the midpalate.
But this precision rounds out towards the end, morphing into a supple, creamy,
mealy honeyed notes which persists for some time on the finish. This wines has a
broad, complete feel to it, and is really lovely; it surely has great potential
for the cellar. 17.5+/20 (September 2006) AP Nr. 23 561 077 22 03
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 1998: A pale lemon-gold hue. Predominantly limes on the nose, with a chalky-minerally
undercurrent. Appealing freshness on entry, rounding out on the midpalate to
deliver some complex fruit flavours, of orange cream with honeyed minerals,
framed by an attractive texture. It is quite broad, stretching across the
palate, showing a flourish of intensity and sweetness on the finish, before
fading quickly. A nice weight and a little secondary development on the palate,
and a very good acid structure. Should do well in the cellar for years yet.
16.5+/20 (September 2006) AP Nr 3 561 077 17 99
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Oberemmeler Karlsberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 1989:
A delightfully rich, golden hue. Freshly cut lime nose, with lemon curd, and a
little grapefruit, and quite loaded with mineral elements. Rich, fleshy weight
on entry, creamy-oily in texture, but cut through by fine acidity. A crisp,
limey, honeycomb flavour profile, with a velvety caramel finish, with nuances of
mint. Beautifully balanced and fresh. Tremendous length. This is absolutely
lovely. Still on the way up; should improve for a decade at the very minimum,
and continue to drink well thereafter. 18.5+/20 (September 2005)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshöfer
Riesling Auslese 1983: A glorious, fairly deep, golden colour here, a
wonderful suggestion of delights to follow. The nose carries a classic kerosene
element, together with rich notes of syrup sponge and ginger spice. Rich and
full, yet with appropriate acidity on the palate, achieving a good balance of
components. Packed with flavour, including more gingery, spicy notes, moist
golden sponge cake, macerated white fruits and a touch of kerosene. A delightful
wine, which demonstrates just how well Riesling can age. Whilst mature and ready
to drink, this wine still has years ahead of it. 18+/20 (May 2002) AP Nr: 3 561
077 42 84 Label
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