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Reichsrat von Buhl
This estate was established in 1849 by Franz Peter Buhl, a member of the Bavarian parliament and vociferous spokesman for the German winemaker. he subsequently augmented his vineyards with those inherited by his wife, a member of the Jordan dynasty. These latter vineyards came from the dissolution of the original Jordan estate into three parts, the other two portions giving rise to the estates today known as Bassermann-Jordan and Dr Deinhart. The von Buhl estate enjoyed great success in these early years, and the wines collected many awards and medals in the latter part of the 19th Century, under the tenure of Reichsrat Franz Armand Buhl, son of the founder. This was the golden age for German Riesling, the wines fetching very high prices, ahead of even the most expensive wines from Bordeaux. The estate went from strength to strength as the 20th Century dawned, increasing to 200 hectares with about half of this under vine. This was under the direction of Franz Eberhard Buhl, the next generation, who passed the estate to his wife, Frieda Piper von Buhl, upon his premature death in 1921. She subsequently died, with no apparent heir to the family estate.
In this situation the estate was bequeathed to family
friend Georg Enoch von und zu Guttenberg, and it remained in the von Guttenberg
family through three generations. This was a time of decline for the estate, as
it was for Germany – and Europe – as a whole. By the 1950s the estate had shrunk
to 52 hectares, although the family had held on to the best sites. Today the same family
maintain ownership, with Baron von und zu Guttenberg at the helm, assisted by
managing director Stefen Weber. From 1989, however, the estate was leased
to a consortium of Japanese investors. The result of this deal was the huge
regeneration of the estate; the new cellar allowed winemaker Frank John to utilise to the
full the estate's impressive portfolio of vineyards, which are in the villages of Forst
(principally Kirchenstück, Ungeheuer, Jesuitengarten, Freundstück
and Pechstein)
and Deidesheim (principally Mäushöhle, Herrgottsacker
and Paradiesgarten). The plantings are predominantly Riesling, with a little
Spätburgunder and other varieties. In 2005, however, all this came under the
control of businessman Achim Neiderberger, who took a majority holding in the
firm.
Over the last decade quality at this estate has, once again, been in the ascendant. The magic combination of investment, terroir and some great vintages has resulted in some highly acclaimed wines. As with many Pfalz estates, there are a good number of trocken wines produced, and I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of both trocken and traditional styles. Quality ranged from good to excellent, with the best wines - in my opinion - being those made in the traditional mould. (30/6/05)
Contact details:
Address: Weinstrasse 16, 67146 Deidesheim
Telephone: +49 (0) 6326 96500
Fax: +49 (0) 6326 965024
Internet:
www.reichsrat-von-buhl.de
Reichsrat von Buhl - Tasting Notes
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Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2004: Restrained, chalky,
slightly steely nose. Bone dry palate. Rather lean on flavour. Stone fruit
notes, with a chalk-mineral background. This is pretty subtle, but correct.
15/20 (May 2005)
Reichsrat
von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2004:
This has a much more open and accessible nose, showing minerality. Bone dry
again. Good body, nice presence on the palate, but lacks character. But there is
potential here; this may improve in bottle. Suggest try again in a year or two.
15+/20 (May 2005)
Reichsrat von Buhl ‘Armand’ Riesling Kabinett 2004: Fresh linen on
the nose. Delicate. One dimensional at present. Good spritz on the palate, and
appealing weight. Mineral, subtle tangerine flavour. This is pretty good, but
needs a year or two in bottle I think. 16+/20 (May 2005)
Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese 2004:
Fresh, chalky nose. Plumpness suggested on the nose. Full, impressive, mineral
and stone-laden palate, matched by tangible extract and a lovely structure.
Showing some exotic fruit notes, but otherwise a little simple; but complexity
will come with time. This very good indeed. Needs 10-15 years. 17.5+/20 (May
2005)
Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Bischofsgarten Riesling Kabinett 2003:
More open nose again. Chalky, white stone fruit. Lovely palate. Some honey
coming in here. Full weight, seamless, nicely balanced. Ripe, honeycomb, and a
twist of barley sugar. This is lovely; I think an extra year in bottle has
helped here. Drink over the next ten years. 17/20 (May 2005)
Reichsrat von Buhl Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Spätlese Trocken
2002:
Suggested by Ronan Sayburn of Gordon Ramsay at Chelsea for ravioli of lobster
and langoustine. Lovely nose here, showing chalky crushed rocks and notes of
orange blossom. The palate is a little lacking in substance, although it has a
lovely fresh, floral, mineral flavour profile, the barest hint of some tropical
fruit. Bone dry. Lovely food wine. From a
Sommelier's Choice
tasting. 15.5/20 (May 2005)
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