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Dr Loosen
The Loosen family have run this Mosel estate for over two centuries, and for
the past twenty or so years Ernst Loosen has been in charge. Ernst took control
almost by default; in the mid-1980s his own father, who was then running the
estate, was
preparing to retire when it became apparent that not many of his children were
interested in living the life of a winemaker. The only one prepared to take on
the yoke, as it may have seemed, was Ernst, an archaeology graduate who was much
more interested in Romans than Riesling. This may have been an abrupt about-turn
in Ernst's career, but there was no lack of enthusiasm on his part. He undertook
winemaking studies
at the German Wine Institute at Geisenheim, before completing his self-styled
education in Austria, Alsace, Burgundy and California, finally returning home to
the Mosel to revitalise the family estate.
The Loosen estate had not seen much in the way of investment or innovation when Ernst assumed full control in 1988. This could be regarded as a blessing in disguise; admittedly, the cellar equipment was rather dated, but on the positive side the vineyards were in excellent condition. During the latter half of the 20th Century German wine had, on many levels, simply lost its way. Alongside the creation of the quantity-over-quality wine brands came the replanting of many vineyards with high-yielding, reliable ripeners such as Müller-Thurgau. Not so in the Loosen vineyards, where disinterest in such business-like activities had ensured that the century-old Riesling vines, in many cases on original rather than grafted rootstock, true vinous treasures, remained undisturbed. Ernst certainly had some good material to kick-start his new career. He implemented organic rather than chemical fertilisation, harder pruning and more stringent selection, and together with Bernhard Schug, a friend from college days, Ernst has been turning his high quality fruit into high quality wines ever since.
The Loosen vineyard portfolio comprises vines in some of the Middle Mosel's
prime sites. No doubt opinions will differ on which of these is the greatest,
but all would agree that the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is a sure
contender. The Sonnenuhr (sundial) vineyard lies on the opposite bank to
the town of Wehlen, and is characterised by a blue-grey slate. Like
so many of
the vineyards along the Mosel it is precipitously steep, and is particularly
rough terrain, with the vines running around crags of bare rock in places. Just
downstream, almost nextdoor
in fact, is the Ürziger Würzgarten vineyard, where the slate is replaced
by a seam of red volcanic soil that is widely quoted to be responsible for the
spice detected in these wines, and also the name which translates as spice
garden. The Loosen vines here approach sixty years old. Then come the two Erden vineyards, Treppchen and Prälat. The Erdener Prälat vineyard is one
of this region's smaller sites, and is also a contender for top vineyard in the
Loosen portfolio. Ernst owns just one quarter of the vines here, the fruit
generally harvested late and sufficient for Auslese on a regular basis.
Erdener Treppchen is a little further downstream again,
a vineyard of red
and grey slate, producing wines of varying Prädikats but often all of very high
quality. These four are Loosen's greatest sites, but upstream from Wehlen there
are two other vineyards which are also of repute and are certainly of great
importance to the Loosen estate, none less so than in Bernkastel where the
Loosens are based. There are vines around the house in the Bernkasteler Lay
vineyard. There are also a few vines in the Graacher Himmelreich
vineyard, a good source of inexpensive Kabinett which shows the balance,
precision and yet richness of flavour that characterises the Loosen wines, as
well as the standard, Gold Kapsel and Long Gold Kapsel Auslesen, for those that can afford
these desirable but pricy wines - the latter two are usually sold for very high sums of
money at the annual VDP auction in Trier.
Whether affordable Kabinette or exalted and accordingly expensive Auslesen, in my experience the wines of Ernst Loosen are some of the best examples of the Mosel that can be found. Although the Kabinett level wines remain very fairly priced, Ernst recognised that there was room in the market for cheaper entry-level wines, not necessarily at Prädikat-level. He teamed up with his younger brother Thomas to establish Loosen Brothers, which bottles the widely available Dr L Riesling, and QbA level wine made from purchased fruit. The astute will notice the AP numbers of these wines are quite distinct from those of the Loosen single vineyard wines, reflecting their alternative origins. The Dr L Riesling is often of high quality; admittedly I sometimes find it a little fat and flowery for my tastes, with insufficient flavour to fill the slightly vacuous palate, which also lacks the precision of the estate wines. But perhaps this is being over-critical; it is extremely good value for money, retailing at significantly less than the other Loosen wines, and is miles apart from the sugary German brands that might otherwise be plucked from the shelves.
Winemakers such as Loosen don't stand still, even when it is clear when they are at the top of their game. Ernst Loosen, an important member of the VDP, highly regarded by the respected critics of German wine such as Armin Diel and Joel Payne and recipient of Gault Millau's Winemaker of the Year and Decanter's Man of the Year awards has expanded his winemaking activities far beyond the Mosel. One of the most significant acquisitions has been the J L Wolf estate in the Pfalz, where Loosen can produce dry Riesling, a completely different style to that traditionally associated with the Mosel. And in partnership with Chateau Ste Michelle he has a presence in Washington, on the USA's west coast. Some of these wines are also very good, and I include some relevant notes here. (18/3/02, updated 3/10/06)
Contact details:
Address: St Johannishof, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues
Telephone: +33 (0) 6531 3426
Fax: +33 (0) 6531 4248
Internet: www.drloosen.com
Dr Loosen - Tasting Notes
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Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2005: Screwcap. A pale hue. Fresh, floral, minerally
and chalky on the nose. It has a nice style. On the palate it is plump, with
decent and fresh acidity, a lovely weight, and a floral chalky
character. There is an appealing, talcy, chalky finish. This is good,
perhaps rather straightforward and of simple quality, but it doesn't seem to
have the same enticing aromas and flavours as last time. Inspection of the AP
number reveals this is a different bottling to the one I tasted exactly one year
ago, so no comparison can be made. Nevertheless, this is intrinsically a pleasant
wine, and good value. 15.5/20 (September 2007)
AP Nr. 2 907 805 11 06
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2005: Bottled under
Stelvin screwcap. A very pale hue on inspection, just the faintest tinge of
yellow-green. Fresh, herby, pepper and coriander-laced character on the nose.
Very nice style on the palate though, rather more focussed and incisive than
some previous vintages which have been very good, but perhaps a little fat and
simple at times. This has very nice acidity and in fact a fine balance through
the midpalate, with some, crisp, spritzy carbon dioxide which helps. A short
finish, but otherwise a very impressive for such a basic, entry-level wine. Very
good. 16/20 (September 2006) AP Nr. 2 907 805 28 06
Dr Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett 2005: Screwcap. This wine has a similarly
pale hue, again with a fruit laden nose, but here more melon and lime, perhaps
more typical, with a steely-stony character beneath. The palate is again fat and
round and is not the most rapier like I have ever encountered, but clearly this
is a characteristic on the 2005 vintage. There is good freshness though, and
again that delicious zippy character. Clean, with a lovely weight, and a wealth
of rounded, resinous, sugar-rich texture and fruit on the finish. Fine quality,
intrinsically enjoyable, but not what all buyers of Kabinett will be looking for
(true of the vintage as a whole, rather than being a criticism of Loosen). 17+/20
(September 2007)
AP Nr. 2 576 162 14 06
Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kabinett 2005: Screwcap. A pale hue. The
nose here is characterised by fruit, and lots of it. Creamy orange peel notes,
with white pepper and a sherbetty fizz character (if that can be sensed by the
nose) over a floral-mineral layer. The palate is fresh and yet fat, with the
plumpness maintained through the midpalate and finish. There is an appealing
purity contrasted with a zippy, sherbetty vivacity which really brings this to
life, but there isn't really the acidity and thus not the definition I would
like on the palate. Fortunately the vivacious character does much to compensate
for this.
16.5+/20 (September 2007) AP Nr. 2 576 162 01 06
Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2005: Bottled under
a synthetic cork; I wonder how this will affect the wine ability of the wine to
age? This doubt about the closure niggles, especially as this is a lovely wine, with a fabulously precise
nose of mineral-laced pears and apples, with a firm, talcy, white pepper
quality. Lovely balance, immediately apparent on entry, quite incisive like the
nose, carrying the wine through the midpalate and only allowing the rounded,
creamy richness that the wine possesses to show until the finish. Unlike some
other wines of this vintage this isn't quite so exuberantly rich and fleshy, and
this is a welcome finding. Beautiful stone fruit flavour, with the barest hint
of crisp melon, but with a softly honeyed texture. A different style to the
2004, richer, although quite restrained for the 2005 vintage. Really very good
indeed. 17+/20 (September 2006) AP Nr 2 576 162 15 06
Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett 2005: Screwcap. This has a nose
of limes, minerally and rocky in character, but with a certain suggestion of
plumpness, with some pure orange fruit and a little touch of sherbet. On the
palate it is fresh yet plump, and well defined. There is a lot of pleasure to be
had here, ripe and creamy and laden with orange fruit, with a rich spiciness.
Soft acidity, obviously plumper than you might expect a Kabinett to be but this
is true of many wines tasted here, but provided you are prepared for this it is
fine. Lovely vibrant flavour, with a vibrant, peppery note. The same score, but
it just has the edge over the Bernkasteler Lay I think. 17+/20 (September 2007) AP Nr. 2 576 162
30 06
Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese 2005: A similar hue, but
altogether more enticing on the nose; there is clearly more fresh, savoury,
sappy character here than in the three Kabinett wines. And there is a little
more fruit complexity too, with notes of lychee alongside the lime. The palate,
though, is just delicious. It is broad and flattering, but nicely defined by a
fresh acidity and a tingling zip that build subtly through the midpalate and sit
in perfect harmony with the wealth of rich, resinous, but very well defined
fruit that exist here. On the finish, little wave after little wave of minerally
fruit flavour, with a rich, lingering, perfumed presence. Excellent, and capable
of fine things in the cellar I think. A glass enjoyed the following night was
superb; flavour-rich with texture, and yet loaded with precision and acidity.
Great stuff. 18+/20 (September 2007) AP Nr. 2 576 162 11 06
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2004: Pale hue. Good clean nose, quite open,
with fresh floral nuances alongside some sweet, grapey fruit. Rather forward on
the palate, showing a seductively plump texture married with crisp acidity and
more of that grapey sweetness, although it certainly has a touch more impact
than the previous vintage. It holds up very well on the palate, is quite
refreshing, and finishes well. Good value wine. Drink now and over the next year
or two. 15.5/20 (September 2005)
Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2004: Bottled under
Stelvin screwcap. A gorgeous, exuberantly youthful fruit nose, with notes of melon
juice, pears and sweetly ripe apples, all leaping from the glass in a lively,
exuberant style. Very nicely poised on the palate, with a plump, rounded style
through the midpalate, evidence of the wines awkward immaturity, yet carrying a
precise, nicely focussed array of flavours. Lovely fresh acidity giving the wine
a bright personality, continuing onto the finish; there is a fine, sappy,
pervasive, chalk-edged texture here; this has a classic Kabinett mouthfeel, so
different to those from the 2005 vintage. Fine now, but with lovely potential
for the cellar. 17+/20 (September 2006) AP Nr 2
576 162 65 05
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2003: Very pale wine indeed, with barely a
tinge of lemon-green. Very sweet, grapey, floral nose. A decent weight on the
palate. Showing a simple sweetness, with just a tingle of retained carbon
dioxide spritz. Slightly perfumed, lemon-lime and green dessert grape flavours.
Very undemanding. I think this is a wine for sipping well chilled on a hot
summer's day. 15/20 (May 2005)
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2002: A pale, shimmering
colour. A pretty, floral nose with some hints of sweetness. On the palate it's
richly textured, off-dry and very appealing. As on the nose the palate is quite floral, which adds to the appeal. The acidity is just about right to provide some balance, although overall
it's a fairly delicate wine despite the unctuous texture. Made entirely from purchased fruit, vintage after vintage this wine demonstrates the skill
of Ernie Loosen. 15.5/20 (September 2003)
Label
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling 2000: Made from purchased fruit.
An attractive pale, yellow-golden hue to this wine. Fresh, clean and sweet white
fruit on the nose, with juicy apples and Galia melons to the fore, although
there is a background minerality toning it down. Full and rich on entry to the
palate, with well rounded, almost creamy fruit, backed up by deliciously
straight, tingling acidity. Great finish, full of fruit but with a savoury
twist. Superb value. 16/20 (March 2002)
AP Nr: 2 907 805 02 01 Label
Dr Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 1999: Good colour.
Primary aromas on the nose, limes and floral elements, with a developing petrol
nuance in the background. Good weight, fresh floral fruit with acacia and a
little melon. Correct acidity. Plump mouthfeel. Very good. Drink over the next
ten to fifteen years. 16+/20 (September 2004)
Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling Kabinett 1998: Purchased fruit but evidently
of Prädikat level. Plenty of grapey fruit on the nose here, with an edge of melon and green apple
fruit, and some subtle notes of mealy, honeycomb richness. Clean and crisp on
the palate, with more green apple character dominating. This becomes more
prominent through the endpalate, but there is also rich, creamed toffee
character which develops alongside it. With fresh acidity and pleasant weight,
this wine was fine for sipping alone or with food. 16/20 (March 2002) AP Nr: 2 907 805 09 99
Label
JL Wolf Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Pfalz) 2004:
Floral, lime blossom, mineral nose. Lovely weight on the palate, mouth-filling,
with good fruit and a firm structure. Rich yet dry, with a carbon dioxide spritz
assisting with the freshness. This is good, and also has potential. 16+/20 (May 2005)
JL Wolf Wachenheimer Riesling (Pfalz) 2001: Ernst Loosen is the man
behind the JL Wolf label.
This is Riesling in very much a modern style, fermented out to dryness, with a
consequent 12.5% alcohol. A good colour with the green tinge of the Riesling
grape. Full and expressive on the nose, with a tropical, mango and nectarine
profile to the fruit, with a twist of citrus freshness. Rich and flavoursome on
the palate, nicely balanced, with good fresh acidity, considerable body,
although not much grip. But this isn't a criticism, merely a comment on style.
15.5/20 (June 2003)
Label
Chateau Ste Michelle & Ernst Loosen Eroica Riesling
(Columbia Valley, Washington) 2003:
Two bottles consumed. An attractive, green-tinged light gold hue. Quite intense
and limey on the nose, fresh and lifted. Attractive palate, rather
straightforward lime fruit with little talcy, chalky, powdery, floral notes
appearing through the midpalate. On the finish, it develops some body, moving
away from a rather light and ethereal character on the midpalate to one of more
substance. Fresh, with appealing, prickling acidity and nicely balanced residual
sugar, and little lemony, pear and tropical fruit notes lingering in the
background. Nice, light, attractive style. Has potential, but is pleasing to
drink now. 16+/20 (May 2006)
Chateau Ste Michelle & Ernst Loosen Eroica Riesling
(Columbia Valley, Washington) 2003:
Two bottles drunk within the space of a week or two. The first has a very pale
hue. A flurry of fruit on the nose at first, with pears and peaches, before
settling down to a more firm, minerally lime character with some floral notes.
Pleasing weight on the palate, with an off-dry level of residual sugar. Some
fresh, prickling retained carbon dioxide. Nicely textured midpalate,
mineral-tinged finish which persists on the palate. Resembles a ripe, dense
Kabinett in weight but with a very un-Teutonic flavour profile. The second
bottle I prefer; it has a somewhat drier mouthfeel, and is quite Alsatian in
style, with good structure. It bodes better for the future. I think this could
age for some time, although I'm too cautious to suggest how long. Very good.
16.5+/20 (September 2005)
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