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Karthäuserhof

Weingut Karthäuserhof, ran by Christoph Tyrell and family, is located in the village of Eitelsbach, a small village on the Ruwer, a tributary of the upper Mosel, near the town of Trier. There has been viticulture in Eitelsbach for centuries, if not millennia. This statement, supported by archaeological evidence of winemaking here during the Roman Empire, is true of much of the Mosel. Weingut Karthäuserhof itself, however, does not appear to have such ancient origins; this estate dates from the 14th Century, when the property was donated to an order of Carthusian monks (from where the name Karthäuserhof, and Karthäuserhofberg - literally Carthusian's hill - originates) by Prince Balduin, Archbishop of Luxembourg, in 1335.

The property remained in monastic hands for nearly five centuries, but under the secularisation led by Napoleon it was wrenched from the holy order to be auctioned off in Paris. It was acquired by a General Intendant of the French Army named Valentin Leonardy, a keen viticulturist, and he took up the care of the vines, which were a mix of Riesling and Pinot Blanc (or Weissburgunder). From Leonardy the estate passed to his daughter and her new husband, Johann Wilhelm Rautenstrauch. It was under the control of this couple and their descendents that the reputation of the property and its wines really grew. Three generations of the Rautenstrauch family came and went, with Hans Wilhelm, who ran the estate until his death in 1951, one of the most notable.

It was at this point that the Tyrell family took on the responsibility for the property. Werner Tyrell, who was related to the late Hans Wilhelm through marriage, took up the reins, producing many wines of repute before handing control over to the next generation, Christoph Tyrell, in 1986. Today Christoph cares for almost 19 hectares of vines in the Karthäuserhofberg vineyard, which is situated in on the right bank of the Ruwer, on the slopes behind the town of Eitelsbach. On the far side of the river lies the Maximiner vineyard, and the Maximin Grünhaus trio of Abtsberg, Herrenberg and Bruderberg. Karthäuserhofberg, the sole source of fruit for the estate, it is an amalgamation of five original vineyards, these being Burgberg, Kronenberg, Orthsberg, Sang and Stirn. In the 1980s the Tyrells brought these vineyards together as one, and ever since then they have labelled their wines simply as Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger, eschewing the individual vineyard names. This super-vineyard (perhaps for want of a better description) is comprised of decomposed Devon slate at a gradient of 55%, and is planted with 90% Riesling, the Pinot Blanc of Valentin Leonardy having contracted to just 10%, restricted to a southwest-facing slope where the soils are dominated more by clay than slate.

The fruit is harvested by hand and fermented in stainless steel vats that were purchased to replace ancient wooden barrels at the end of the 1980s, and Tyrell credits this change as being at least partly responsible for the freshness and vivacity that his wines demonstrate today. And this is a huge range of wines; a quick glance through the Karthäuserhofberg catalogue reveals dozens of bottlings in any one particular vintage, including Sekt, dry Weissburgunder and a huge array of Rieslings across the Prädikat, including numerous Auslesen bottled according to fuder number. It is impossible for me to have tasted them all, but of the handful of wines that have come my way have most have been of very good quality, the only notable exception being a rather fat Spätlese from the 2003 vintage.

Before I roll out my notes, it is perhaps worth passing a few comments on the Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger labels, an example of which is above. They are notable for being neck labels, which can leave some who are unfamiliar with the bottles to wonder why the bottle should be so naked, and whether perhaps the rest of the label has fallen off. Although I have read that this style evolved quite recently, so that the labels could be seen even when the bottle was partially submerged in an ice bucket, I am not convinced by this tale. An inspection of Karthäuserhof labels back as far as the late 19th Century reveals that this has been a consistent style for the estate over many decades; how it evolved I do not know, but it does not seem to be a new or recent phenomenon. The labels themselves, regardless of position, are also worthy of inspection, as the detail within encompasses some of the notable historical moments of the Karthäuserhof estate. At the very centre is a vervet monkey, once part of the Carthusian's coat of arms, and below this a Catherine wheel and the letter C, both of which relate to Eitelsbach's patron saint, Catherine. Across the top a staff, holy cross and bishop's mitre represent Prince Balduin, Archbishop of Luxembourg. Even the gold and blue border has some significance, the particular colours being derived from the 4711 Cologne house, a renowned manufacturer of Eau de Cologne with connections to the Rautenstrauch family.

And so to the wines. As I have said my experience concerns a handful, rather than a portfolio. But what I have tasted has been, in most cases, delicious and worthwhile. I have tasted occasional bottles here and there, young and old, but have a slightly broader experience of the 2007 vintage, tasted in 2008. I certainly have no concerns about tasting and hopefully drinking some more of these wines in the future, and I look forward to taking a look at future vintages. (17/1/02, updated 20/2/09)

Contact details:
Address: Karthäuserhof, 54292 Eitelsbach
Telephone: +49 (0) 651 5121
Fax: +49 (0) 651 53557
Internet: www.karthaeuserhof-tyrell.de

Karthäuserhof - Tasting Notes

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Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007: This has 8 g/l residual sugar; it has a delicate nose, with a lean and herby character. Although limpid and clean it seems rather lost in the midpalate. It is a little hard to describe; it is both hard and unfocused at the same time. It softens up a little towards the finish, and has a youthful style with firm acidity. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 15-15.5+?/20 (June 2008)

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2007: This has 18 g/l residual sugar. Fresh, more aromatic than the trocken wine, and showing good substance on the palate. It is bright, minerally, stylish, with lots of grip and structure through the midpalate and end. Good character here. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 16-16.5+/20 (June 2008)

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett 2007: Delightful fruit here, piles of bright, clean limes and melons. A fabulous style, very bright, ripe and flavoursome, textured. Notes of complex spices alongside a fleshy substance. This has really outstanding quality for this Prädikat. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 17.5-18+/20 (June 2008)

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese 2007: Lovely bright fruit on the nose here, aromatic and clean. It has marvellous precision, pervasive and tingling acidity, and a taut, stylish and yet accessible composition. This is truly excellent. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 17.5-18+/20 (June 2008)

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese 2007: This has a wonderfully precise nose, and on the palate a reserved and yet creamy, broad style. Underneath it there is a great acidity keeping it all in check. Wonderful, well defined style and great structure. Elegant, lifted yet rich. And a great length too. Excellent wine. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 18-18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese 2003: The 2003 vintage would not be my first port of call for many white wines, including those of the Mosel, but this is one bottle that did land - unintentionally - in my cellar. A deep, green-tinged, bright and vibrant hue on inspection. It is youthful and, perhaps unsurprisingly, it seems all over the place. Lots of chalky, talcy, powdered rock character, with a little touch of honey, minerals, lemon grass, peaches and sherbet. It seems quite enticing, but the palate is where this wine disappoints. It has flesh and weight, clear residual sugar, but low acidity and thus no definition. It has a fat, rounded feel with no developed edges anywhere. The flavour profile includes lychees which are delightful but hardly typical; tasted blind I may have put this wine in Alsace. Despite this I certainly like the flavour - but overall the low acidity is too much of a problem for me to really rate this. A 2007 Christmas wine. 14/20 (December 2007) AP number: 3 561 303 33 04

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett 1998: A clear and bright wine, with a typical green edge to the hue. There are a few bubbles collecting on the inside of the glass, suggesting some residual dissolved carbon dioxide. On the nose there are fresh limes and notes of blossom, with a steely, slatey firmness lying behind the juicy, almost powerful fruit. Immediately apparent on the palate is a slight, appealing carbon dioxide spritz confirming my suspicions. Alongside there is fresh acidity buoying up a weight of lively, limey fruit, which lingers through the finish, with a floral edge. 17+/20 (January 2002) AP number: 3 561 303 7 99

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese 1990: Suggested by Matt Wilkin of The Capital for seared duck foie gras. Good, evolving nose. Rich notes entering at the edges, but with plenty of lime and some subtle kerosene freshness. Lovely balance, with a pure, rounded, chalky mineral component countered by fine acidity and an elegant texture. Steely, blossom notes on the finish. A superb wine, still improving (should drink well for another decade), and in my opinion the most appealing food match of all the suggestions. From a Sommelier's Choice tasting. 17.5+/20 (May 2005)