Home > Producer Profiles > German Profiles > Joh. Jos. Prüm
Joh. Jos. Prüm
No account of the estates of the Mosel would be complete without an account of Joh. Jos. (often referred to more simply as J-J) Prüm, which is without doubt a leader in the region, and thus in all Germany. Although the Prüm family were well established as viticulturists and winemakers, having been tending vines along the banks of the Mosel since the 17th Century, the Joh. Jos. Prüm estate only came into being in 1911, when the family vineyards were divided into two. The original estate, which owed much of its existence to Sebastien Alois Prüm, was divided between two grandchildren, and the share taken by Johann Josef Prüm is the one that interests us here. The other portion of the estate still exists today, under the name of SA Prüm. Following its genesis with Johann Josef as curator, the estate was then tended by his son Sebastien Prüm and subsequently by the current incumbent, the next generation, Dr Manfred Prüm, who took control in 1969. All three have been responsible in their own way for building up and consolidating the reputation of the estate to the level that it possesses today.
The
Joh. Jos. Prüm portfolio includes a number of truly illustrious
vineyards, but it is undoubtedly the vines in the Sonnenuhr (sundial)
vineyard on the opposite bank to the town of Wehlen that produce the most iconic
wines, and are most readily associated with the estate. The stones underfoot
here are typically a blue-grey slate, like many of the vineyards along
the Mosel it is precipitously steep, and it is also particularly rugged, with the
vines running around crags of bare rock in places. From this vineyard come wines
that near perfection if there is such a thing, across all levels of the
Prädikat,
although it is the Auslesen that stupefy most, especially when looking beyond
the standard (but still fabulous) bottling to the Gold and Long Gold Kapsel (often
abbreviated to GK and LGK) bottlings, superior selections which serve not to increase the texture
and weight, but provide instead greater purity, focus and precision. Typified by
gold capsules with a single white stripe for the former (as below), a double white stripe
for the latter, these wines were once labelled as Feinste Auslese or Hochfeine
Auslese prior to the new wine laws of 1971, when such terminology was outlawed.
It is these wines, more than any others, on which this estate has built its grand
reputation. There are other vineyards of course, including Graacher Himmelreich,
an excellent site in its own right but here, without doubt, playing second
fiddle to Wehlener Sonnenuhr. A little further upstream there are also vines in
the Badstube vineyard in Bernkastel, whilst downstream there are some in the
other Sonnenuhr vineyard, in Zeltingen.
The
wines of Germany offer many styles, and from Joh. Jos. Prüm we have wines
of great aristocracy, and at certain stages in their evolution they are also
wines of great austerity. In their youth they are renowned for their reticence,
and in early tastings it can be difficult
to appreciate their full potential. These are not wines to give their
pleasure immediately or easily. They are, however, renowned for their precision,
focus, finesse and longevity, and this is true from the Kabinette up to the
varied selection of Auslesen.
There is also, as a point of interest, a tiny amount of trocken wine produced
although it is a niche product and not generally exported. My own experience of
the wines has been almost exclusively positive, demonstrating the delicate yet
firm, poised, reserved and often thrilling wines for which Joh. Jos. Prüm is known, and
also demonstrating very nicely their capacity for ageing. They
have a permanently reserved place in my cellar, and in view of their longevity I have never
shied away from acquiring older bottles from auction and, on occasion, merchants
with older stocks. (29/4/02, updated 17/4/07)
Contact details:
Address: Uferallee 19, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen
Telephone: +49 6531 3091
Fax: +49 6531 6071
Joh. Jos. Prüm - Tasting Notes
Click
to locate stockists.
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2006: A not very
expressive nose here, it is stylish and gentle in its character, showing a
slightly bitter element but certainly some good grip beneath. Rather diffuse
midpalate. There are elements here that appeal, and there is subtlety too.
Overall very good, but perhaps not revealing its true potential here today. A
conservative score. An older vintage shown at a
2007 Germany tasting. 16.5-17+?/20 (June 2008)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2005:
Rather quiet on the nose in terms of aromas, showing just a little honeyed
fruit, but there is also the sensation of density, of richesse. Despite this on
the palate it is very lightfooted, pure, elegant and delicately balanced. Great
potential here, a combination of style and substance. A really excellent and yet
hugely understated wine. An older vintage shown at a
2007 Germany tasting. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2008)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2004: Despite four
years this is still wearing a little sulphur. A nice style is evident underneath
it though. Rather complete in character, gentle, plainly very young and in need
of cellar time. But there is much appealing quality here. An older vintage shown
at a 2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (June 2008)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2004: Again,
sulphur evident on the nose, although with plenty of bright and acidic fruit
beneath. It is delicate, clean, minerally and has tingly acids. Then it seems
softer, more gentle, not so much substance, with lots of bright character. Good
potential. An older vintage shown at a
2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+?/20 (June 2008)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2004: Dense and
minerally, although again with a streak of sulphur yet to subside. Great, bright
acidity on the palate, fine weight, elegant, stylish, overall a lovely
composition. Clean, long and balanced. Not very expressive but this will come
with time. An older vintage shown at a
2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (June 2008)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling
Spätlese 2003: An explosive nose; elegant chalk and mineral aromas.
Beautifully textured palate, with a superb flower, dew-laden, mineral and slate
panoply of flavour. Weighty and rich, but with superb precision. Fine acidity.
Excellent, with potential for 10-15 years of development in the cellar. From a
tiny Great German Riesling
tasting. 18+/20 (May 2005)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2002: Suggested by James
Dougherty of the Butler's Wharf Chophouse for roast Suffolk pork loin. Some
honeycomb aromas, with steely-slate, petrol-tinged, floral finesse. Lovely
weight on the palate, with quite firm acidity. It is quite primary and rather
simple at present, but it has good slatey character and is simply stuffed with
potential. This will be beautiful in time, but needs ten years as a bare
minimum, and will drink for long after that. From a
Sommelier's Choice
tasting. 17.5+/20 (May 2005)
Joh.
Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2001: A pale hue, tinged with green. Rather an intense, mealy
nose which is very attractive, with some very obvious pure lime fruit and notes
of pickling spice and passion fruit. The palate has some finely delineated
acidity and a mealy depth following on from the nose. Through the midpalate it
has a full, pervasive, very broad style leading to a flattering, rather
seductive finish. Nevertheless, throughout, it remains a little distant, aloof,
unassailable. This is very fine, and has great potential. Wonderful. 18+/20 (April 2007)
AP number: 2 576 511 12 02
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001: Another pale wine, but again with a typical green tinge
to it, and a few bubbles of carbon dioxide clinging to the inside of the glass.
There follows quite an intense, smoky-minerally nose, with the fruit well hidden
beneath, alongside a trace of sulphur. Delightfully fresh on the palate though,
incisive and very determined style on entry, with a marked spritz and a smoky,
talcy, chalky mineral feel alongside a nice weight. Firm, lemony, limey,
slightly sherbetty fruit in quite an expansive style completes the picture, with
a nice, broad, creamy weight. Really very young, slightly awkward yet showing
huge potential here. I left some of this 24 hours and it changed
remarkably, showing a pure minerality on the nose, and on the palate a
laser-like precision, still full of flavour and still with that appealing
spritz. This needs years and years - I suspect a decade
will pass before this wine hits peak. Wonderful. 18+/20 (April 2007)
AP number: 2 576 511 15 02
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2001: A pale shimmering hue, green tinged, and like
the wines that preceded it there are some bubbles of residual carbon dioxide lingering here. A
super nose, with a deep, limey, minerally, smoky and fresh style. There is
perhaps the faintest tinge of residual sulphur here too, but it is very subtle and is of
no consequence. Gorgeously fresh despite being deeply structured, plush and
rich, with a great, broad character. Creamy fruit richness, precisely defined,
very upright and composed, but with plenty of fleshy substance, so although this
wine is in a very early stage of what should be a lengthy evolution, it is still
beautifully balanced and delightfully easy to drink. But no doubt in five, ten
or twenty years time, protected by the crisp, tingling and perfectly delineated
acidity that it possesses, it will be a fabulous experience. A wonderful wine
with huge potential. 18.5+/20 (April 2007)
AP number: 2 576 511 19 02
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1997: A
typical pale, green-tinged golden colour, with a very slight carbon
dioxide spritz when first opened. This wine is just a baby, with a
very youthful, lime fruit-dominated nose. Wonderful texture on the
palate, with a sweet-savoury richness, packed with lime, orange
blossom and ripe tropical fruit flavour and great acidity. Like the
other wines which have stood out during my Wine Saga, this example
has superb, finely poised balance, and despite more than a degree of
power, simply glides across the palate. Lovely length as well. 18/20 (April 2002)
AP number: 2 576 511 16 98
Label
Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 1993: A similarly hued wine, although different on the nose - more restraint
and finesse. Elegant in fact. Nevertheless, on the palate it is big,
rich and mouth-filling. This doesn't distract from amazing finesse and
precision to be found here though. Rich, again more Spätlese than
anything else, but with fine acidity. Notes of orange peel on the
finish. From a 1993 vintage
ten year on tasting. 18/20 (December 2003)
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1990:
The colour here suggests nothing out of the ordinary, being a fairly pale golden
yellow, although it is perhaps a little richer and less green than many of the
Mosel wines I have tried recently. Powerful and intense aromas on the nose,
which has a classic petrol fume character, although this soon closes down and is
then dominated by youthful, intense, sweet lime pastille fruit. Real style on the
palate, though, which has glorious balance, with a sweet and round texture and
delightful, subtle yet tingling acidity. There's a mealy, branny, honeyed yet fresh
aspect coming in with quite a flourish on the midpalate, with more classic petrol
fumes, and some spice as well. This is a real treat for the senses. A rich finish,
and what a length - it just goes on and on! This is just glorious stuff.
19/20 (April 2002) AP number: 2 576 511 1 92
Label
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1988: This wine has quite a rich
and yellow-gold hue in the glass, although it still has a very
bright character. The nose is wonderfully pure, very dense and full of limes and
minerals, especially the latter which have a fine, chalky, flinty, dusty
character. The palate has a lovely flesh which coats the mouth, before yielding
flavours of lime, honey, crushed rocks and more. It is remarkable to reflect on
the age of this wine; it has such overt freshness and vivacity, I suspect
someone tasting this blind would guess its age to be considerably less than two
decades. On the finish it shows a
delightfully complete composition, with fine acidity carrying along the substance
of the wine. There is lots of character here, plenty of depth and through to the finish
a real character. I find this wine to be very fine indeed, put still with great
potential for the cellar; I have one more bottle which will remain there for a
while yet. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. From a
1988 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2008)
AP number: 2 576 511 15 89
Home - Site Index - Site updated July 04, 2009 - © The Winedoctor 2000 - 2009 - Wine Scores - RSS
