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Joh. Jos. Prüm

No account of the estates of the Mosel would be complete without an account of Joh. Jos. (often referred to more simply as J-J) Prüm, which is without doubt a leader in the region, and thus in all Germany. Although the Prüm family were well established as viticulturists and winemakers, having been tending vines along the banks of the Mosel since the 17th Century, the Joh. Jos. Prüm estate only came into being in 1911, when the family vineyards were divided into two. The original estate, which owed much of its existence to Sebastien Alois Prüm, was divided between two grandchildren, and the share taken by Johann Josef Prüm is the one that interests us here. The other portion of the estate still exists today, under the name of SA Prüm. Following its genesis with Johann Josef as curator, the estate was then tended by his son Sebastien Prüm and subsequently by the current incumbent, the next generation, Dr Manfred Prüm, who took control in 1969. All three have been responsible in their own way for building up and consolidating the reputation of the estate to the level that it possesses today.

The Joh. Jos. Prüm portfolio includes a number of truly illustrious vineyards, but it is undoubtedly the vines in the Sonnenuhr (sundial) vineyard on the opposite bank to the town of Wehlen that produce the most iconic wines, and are most readily associated with the estate. The stones underfoot here are typically a blue-grey slate, like many of the vineyards along the Mosel it is precipitously steep, and it is also particularly rugged, with the vines running around crags of bare rock in places. From this vineyard come wines that near perfection if there is such a thing, across all levels of the Prädikat, although it is the Auslesen that stupefy most, especially when looking beyond the standard (but still fabulous) bottling to the Gold and Long Gold Kapsel (often abbreviated to GK and LGK) bottlings, superior selections which serve not to increase the texture and weight, but provide instead greater purity, focus and precision. Typified by gold capsules with a single white stripe for the former (as below), a double white stripe for the latter, these wines were once labelled as Feinste Auslese or Hochfeine Auslese prior to the new wine laws of 1971, when such terminology was outlawed. It is these wines, more than any others, on which this estate has built its grand reputation. There are other vineyards of course, including Graacher Himmelreich, an excellent site in its own right but here, without doubt, playing second fiddle to Wehlener Sonnenuhr. A little further upstream there are also vines in the Badstube vineyard in Bernkastel, whilst downstream there are some in the other Sonnenuhr vineyard, in Zeltingen.

The wines of Germany offer many styles, and from Joh. Jos. Prüm we have wines of great aristocracy, and at certain stages in their evolution they are also wines of great austerity. In their youth they are renowned for their reticence, and in early tastings it can be difficult to appreciate their full potential. These are not wines to give their pleasure immediately or easily. They are, however, renowned for their precision, focus, finesse and longevity, and this is true from the Kabinette up to the varied selection of Auslesen. There is also, as a point of interest, a tiny amount of trocken wine produced although it is a niche product and not generally exported. My own experience of the wines has been almost exclusively positive, demonstrating the delicate yet firm, poised, reserved and often thrilling wines for which Joh. Jos. Prüm is known, and also demonstrating very nicely their capacity for ageing. They have a permanently reserved place in my cellar, and in view of their longevity I have never shied away from acquiring older bottles from auction and, on occasion, merchants with older stocks. (29/4/02, updated 17/4/07)

Contact details:
Address: Uferallee 19, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen
Telephone: +49 6531 3091
Fax: +49 6531 6071

Joh. Jos. Prüm - Tasting Notes

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Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2006: A not very expressive nose here, it is stylish and gentle in its character, showing a slightly bitter element but certainly some good grip beneath. Rather diffuse midpalate. There are elements here that appeal, and there is subtlety too. Overall very good, but perhaps not revealing its true potential here today. A conservative score. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 16.5-17+?/20 (June 2008)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2005: Rather quiet on the nose in terms of aromas, showing just a little honeyed fruit, but there is also the sensation of density, of richesse. Despite this on the palate it is very lightfooted, pure, elegant and delicately balanced. Great potential here, a combination of style and substance. A really excellent and yet hugely understated wine. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2008)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2004: Despite four years this is still wearing a little sulphur. A nice style is evident underneath it though. Rather complete in character, gentle, plainly very young and in need of cellar time. But there is much appealing quality here. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (June 2008)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2004: Again, sulphur evident on the nose, although with plenty of bright and acidic fruit beneath. It is delicate, clean, minerally and has tingly acids. Then it seems softer, more gentle, not so much substance, with lots of bright character. Good potential. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+?/20 (June 2008)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2004: Dense and minerally, although again with a streak of sulphur yet to subside. Great, bright acidity on the palate, fine weight, elegant, stylish, overall a lovely composition. Clean, long and balanced. Not very expressive but this will come with time. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (June 2008)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2003: An explosive nose; elegant chalk and mineral aromas. Beautifully textured palate, with a superb flower, dew-laden, mineral and slate panoply of flavour. Weighty and rich, but with superb precision. Fine acidity. Excellent, with potential for 10-15 years of development in the cellar. From a tiny Great German Riesling tasting. 18+/20 (May 2005)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2002: Suggested by James Dougherty of the Butler's Wharf Chophouse for roast Suffolk pork loin. Some honeycomb aromas, with steely-slate, petrol-tinged, floral finesse. Lovely weight on the palate, with quite firm acidity. It is quite primary and rather simple at present, but it has good slatey character and is simply stuffed with potential. This will be beautiful in time, but needs ten years as a bare minimum, and will drink for long after that. From a Sommelier's Choice tasting. 17.5+/20 (May 2005)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2001: Perhaps a little more colour here than when tasted last year. The nose is enticing, with a fine exotic tropical fruit depth here, with a complex intensity that brings an almost chewy, mealy sense to the fruit profile. This doesn't seem so purely bright now, but is rich as well. although it still has all those apple, lime and flower petal characteristics. A beautifully fleshy start to the palate, perhaps a little too rich for some lovers of true kabinetts who might prefer a more laser-like cut. This exotic character carries through onto the palate, with pineapple, honeydew melon, candied lemon and also shifting towards a petrol element as well. Also a touch of honeyed sweetness in the end, which is soft and very long, Elegant, seductive and remarkably deep. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2011) AP number: 2 576 511 12 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2001: Still a fairly pale wine, but with a certain yellow-green tinged. Unlike the Maximin Grünhäuser wine tasted alongside this still has an exuberant and youthful nose, fresh and very mineral, with limes rubbed on stone, fresh green apples, flower petals and a fine spice. There is a good depth here, a gritty, mealy depth very reminiscent of my tasting three years ago. A delicious palate, pure but rich, dripping with passion fruit, honeydew melon and limes, all backed up by a rich substance which hangs very nicely on a light-footed frame of pure, vibrant acidity. Just a hint of petrol coming in here. A super wine which just fills you with confidence. Composed, seductive and very, very moreish. 18+/20 (October 2010) AP number: 2 576 511 12 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2001: A pale hue, tinged with green. Rather an intense, mealy nose which is very attractive, with some very obvious pure lime fruit and notes of pickling spice and passion fruit. The palate has some finely delineated acidity and a mealy depth following on from the nose. Through the midpalate it has a full, pervasive, very broad style leading to a flattering, rather seductive finish. Nevertheless, throughout, it remains a little distant, aloof, unassailable. This is very fine, and has great potential. Wonderful. 18+/20 (April 2007) AP number: 2 576 511 12 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001: A clear green-tinged hue, and with the suggestion of a spritz, as there are quite a few residual carbon dioxide bubbles clinging to the inside of the glass here. A lovely purity on the nose, very expressive and yet bright, fresh and defined, with lime fruit and blackcurrant leaf. There is a suggestion of mineral crunch to it, but the previously noted sulphur has now dissipated. The palate has heart-stopping definition; what I really love about Prüm is that the wines combine weight with grand definition and vivacious, minerally, sherbetty, acid framed lift; this spätlese is no exception. It has such vigour and lift on the palate, and yet this is communicated with delicacy rather than power or form. No longer awkward, instead beautifully defined and rich. This is very fine indeed. Approachable now such is its mealy sherbetty delight, but as I have noted previously it should go for years and years. Fantastic wine. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2011) AP number: 2 576 511 15 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001: Another pale wine, but again with a typical green tinge to it, and a few bubbles of carbon dioxide clinging to the inside of the glass. There follows quite an intense, smoky-minerally nose, with the fruit well hidden beneath, alongside a trace of sulphur. Delightfully fresh on the palate though, incisive and very determined style on entry, with a marked spritz and a smoky, talcy, chalky mineral feel alongside a nice weight. Firm, lemony, limey, slightly sherbetty fruit in quite an expansive style completes the picture, with a nice, broad, creamy weight. Really very young, slightly awkward yet showing huge potential here. I left some of this 24 hours and it changed remarkably, showing a pure minerality on the nose, and on the palate a laser-like precision, still full of flavour and still with that appealing spritz. This needs years and years - I suspect a decade will pass before this wine hits peak. Wonderful. 18+/20 (April 2007) AP number: 2 576 511 15 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2001: A clear green-tinged hue, and just like the spätlese this shows a light application of carbon dioxide bubbles around the inner surface of the glass. Unfortunately it still reeks of typical Prüm sulphur at this stage, with struck match and mothball characteristics dominating at present. I described it as a ‘faint tinge’ in 2007 but perhaps I was being kind; it certainly isn’t faint here. There is still a bright, vivacious minerality underneath it though, along with little notes of seashell and seaside ‘ozone’. Lovely weight, although it feels light-footed and gentle and harmonious. Not intensely sweet, not overtly sweeter than the spätlese in fact, although there is a beautifully fleshy polish on the palate with a very harmonious structure. Lovely vibrancy on the finish, which is fresh and long. It still needs time, this one; and it will drink well for decades I am certain. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2011) AP number: 2 576 511 19 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2001: A pale shimmering hue, green tinged, and like the wines that preceded it there are some bubbles of residual carbon dioxide lingering here. A super nose, with a deep, limey, minerally, smoky and fresh style. There is perhaps the faintest tinge of residual sulphur here too, but it is very subtle and is of no consequence. Gorgeously fresh despite being deeply structured, plush and rich, with a great, broad character. Creamy fruit richness, precisely defined, very upright and composed, but with plenty of fleshy substance, so although this wine is in a very early stage of what should be a lengthy evolution, it is still beautifully balanced and delightfully easy to drink. But no doubt in five, ten or twenty years time, protected by the crisp, tingling and perfectly delineated acidity that it possesses, it will be a fabulous experience. A wonderful wine with huge potential. 18.5+/20 (April 2007) AP number: 2 576 511 19 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1997: A typical pale, green-tinged golden colour, with a very slight carbon dioxide spritz when first opened. This wine is just a baby, with a very youthful, lime fruit-dominated nose. Wonderful texture on the palate, with a sweet-savoury richness, packed with lime, orange blossom and ripe tropical fruit flavour and great acidity. Like the other wines which have stood out during my Wine Saga, this example has superb, finely poised balance, and despite more than a degree of power, simply glides across the palate. Lovely length as well. 18/20 (April 2002) AP number: 2 576 511 16 98

Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 1993: A similarly hued wine, although different on the nose - more restraint and finesse. Elegant in fact. Nevertheless, on the palate it is big, rich and mouth-filling. This doesn't distract from amazing finesse and precision to be found here though. Rich, again more Spätlese than anything else, but with fine acidity. Notes of orange peel on the finish. From a 1993 vintage ten year on tasting. 18/20 (December 2003)

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1990: The colour here suggests nothing out of the ordinary, being a fairly pale golden yellow, although it is perhaps a little richer and less green than many of the Mosel wines I have tried recently. Powerful and intense aromas on the nose, which has a classic petrol fume character, although this soon closes down and is then dominated by youthful, intense, sweet lime pastille fruit. Real style on the palate, though, which has glorious balance, with a sweet and round texture and delightful, subtle yet tingling acidity. There's a mealy, branny, honeyed yet fresh aspect coming in with quite a flourish on the midpalate, with more classic petrol fumes, and some spice as well. This is a real treat for the senses. A rich finish, and what a length - it just goes on and on! This is just glorious stuff. 19/20 (April 2002) AP number: 2 576 511 1 92

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1988: This wine has quite a rich and yellow-gold hue in the glass, although it still has a very bright character. The nose is wonderfully pure, very dense and full of limes and minerals, especially the latter which have a fine, chalky, flinty, dusty character. The palate has a lovely flesh which coats the mouth, before yielding flavours of lime, honey, crushed rocks and more. It is remarkable to reflect on the age of this wine; it has such overt freshness and vivacity, I suspect someone tasting this blind would guess its age to be considerably less than two decades. On the finish it shows a delightfully complete composition, with fine acidity carrying along the substance of the wine. There is lots of character here, plenty of depth and through to the finish a real character. I find this wine to be very fine indeed, put still with great potential for the cellar; I have one more bottle which will remain there for a while yet. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. From a 1988 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2008) AP number: 2 576 511 15 89