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Geltz-Zilliken

The story of Geltz-Zilliken begins in the 19th Century with the estate of Ferdinand Geltz, who held the grand title of Royal Prussian District Forester. It was Geltz who reputedly established the estate's fine reputation, although his accomplishments went far beyond his own vineyards. Geltz was an instrumental figure in the development of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), an association of quality-orientated growers that was formed in 1910, with help from Geltz, from the merger of several smaller, regional associations. Today the VDP is perhaps the most significant body of German producers in existence, and its requirements for membership are exacting.

Ferdinand Geltz died in 1925, and his estate was divided between two daughters, Antoinette and Ella. As Antoinette was promised to an upper class military officer named Krick, who demanded a dowry of a certain size, Antoinette took 60% of the family's vineyards, enough to satisfy her new husband's requirements. This estate took the name Forstmeister Geltz-Krick, and it remained with Major Krick and Antoinette until the latter's death in 1957, when it was passed to other members of the Krick family. The modern-day Geltz-Zilliken estate is derived solely from the 40% that was left to Ella, although not the entire 40%. Ella bequeathed her vineyards to her own two daughters, Marianne and Henriette, each receiving an equal share. In 1947 Marianne married Fritz Zilliken, who came from a local family of vignerons who had been tending vines around Saarburg and Ockfen, on the Saar, since at least 1742. They established their cellars in a modest building on Heckingstraβe in Saarburg on the Saar, the original winery and cellars having been destroyed by bombing in 1944. It was this portion, just 20% of the original Ferdinand Geltz estate, that is today known as Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, and it is their son, Hans-Joachim Zilliken (pictured above), more commonly known as Hanno, who runs the estate from the same understated building. In order to continue what seems like a family tradition he has two daughters, of whom one is a trained physiotherapist, whereas the other, Dorothee (also pictured above), assists him at the estate. She seems well qualified to do so; having toiled in the family vineyards during school holidays and worked an internship at several estates in Germany and Alsace, she then went on to study viticulture and oenology at Wiesbaden and Geisenheim. After experience at DeWetshof in Robertson, South Africa, and at Schloss Vollrads, she returned to the family fold.

The Vineyards and Wines

Hanno and Dorothee hold sway over vines in two principal vineyards, Ockfener Bockstein and Saarburger Rausch, although without doubt it is the latter of the two that yields the best wines, and that is best associated with the estate. There are 11 hectares of vines all told, 8 of which are in the Rausch vineyard, and these are 100% Riesling with an average age of 30 years. The soils underfoot here are Devon slate, typical for the region. Yields are controlled down to about 50 hl/ha, and the harvest is done by hand. The fruit comes to the cellars which lie beneath the unassuming manor house, extending downwards over three levels to a depth of 9 metres, proving a constant temperature of 10ºC and almost 100% humidity. Once at the winery the fruit is pressed in stainless steel and allowed to clarify, before being transferred by gravity to German oak vats where the wines are fermented and aged, before being returned to steel for assemblage and bottling. The range of wines includes the usual gamut from kabinett to auslese, including some Goldkapsel bottlings, and a bottle-fermented sparkling wine. Hanno also endeavours to produce an eiswein from the Rausch vineyard whenever possible, and indeed many of the Goldkapsel wines have a proportion of frozen grapes in the blend, as do even some 'lesser' Prädikat wines. In 1998, for example, the fruit in the Rausch vineyard was too dilute to achieve the must weight necessary for spätlese, so Hanno waited until the grapes were frozen on the vine, and then harvested and managed the fruit as an eiswein, separating the juice from the ice crystals in order to concentrate the must, before bottling it as an auction spätlese (and selling it for an appropriate price).

Geltz-Zilliken does not seem to have as high a profile as some other estates, and so far seems to one for those with a little inside knowledge when it comes to German wine. You won't find the wines discussed in online forums in the same way that you do for Prüm or Dönnhoff, wines that seem to attract attention from all and sundry, but that does not mean these wines are not just as good. Hanno has been content for many years, working quietly away producing wines of amazing quality without any great fanfare. He is a modest man who I met in 2008, and found him to be quiet, charming and approachable, despite being in charge of some of the greatest wines of Germany. When I first wrote this profile I suggested he was a hair's breadth behind the upper echelons of producers based along the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer. Today I have updated my opinion; I think he is there. (25/2/02, updated 3/12/08)

Contact details:
Address: Heckingstraβe 20, 54439 Saarburg
Telephone: +49 6581 2456
Fax: +49 6581 6763
Internet: www.zilliken-vdp.de

Geltz-Zilliken - Tasting Notes

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Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett 2007: A very fresh, pure, lifted and aromatic nose. This is a delicious wine with lovely style, full and fleshy, but balanced with a little delicacy. A clean, sour-juicy finish completes the picture. This has some length too. An excellent Kabinett. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 16.5-17+/20 (June 2008)

Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese 2007: A delicate but still minerally nose here, with a similar character to the palate with a gentle, textured, filigree finesse. Pure and mineral-rich, yet broad and textured, with tingling acidity through to the finish, this is a wine of great appeal. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 16.5-17+/20 (June 2008)

Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese (Auction) 2007: Delicious Saar minerals here, purer, richer and yet more lively than the preceding wines. A very incisively composed palate, fresh and impressive, warming and opening up later in the palate to display a fine, creamy substance. Really excellent style. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 17.5-18+/20 (June 2008)

Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2007: Another step up here, with a fabulous nose, pure and chalky and minerally. The palate is similarly delicious, broad and creamy, with a chalky edge and well covered acidity. Notes of orange peel provide a highlight, but its main appeal is its wonderful purity. Superb. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 18-18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Auction) 2003: The quantity produced was just 120 litres, so it is unsurprising that this is an auction wine. The nose is heavenly, completely distinct from any other wine at this tasting, partly the Prädikat and partly due to the vintage I am sure. There are rich notes of quince botrytis, with a plainly obvious although fleeting high-toned element also. A wonderful, creamy, complex and layered style on the palate, this is stunningly fine. An older vintage shown at a 2007 Germany tasting. 19-19.5+/20 (June 2008)

Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett 1999: A typically pale, green-golden wine here. Great elegance on what is an expressive nose, full of honeysuckle, blossom and minerals. There's no disappointment with the palate, which follows on with a combination of concentration, character and freshness. Classic lime flavour on entry, but through the midpalate there is more of a pear and stone fruit profile, together with a delicious, mineral, steely yet floral character. This all sounds a little hard, but in fact there is a lovely weight, a rounded mouthfeel, and fine acidity. Delicious stuff. 17/20 (February 2002) AP number: 3 551 083 14 00 Label

Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 1997: A very pale, lemon yellow wine with a typical green tinge. The nose is fairly simple, with exuberant yet steely lime fruit, although perhaps there are some notes of petrol coming through. The palate is bitingly fresh, with sharp, piercing acidity. This supports a good layer of blossom and lime cordial fruit, with a very clean, sweet, viscous texture. Fairly uncomplicated at present, but it has plenty of staying power, and with plenty of age (a decade or so) this will be a delicious wine. 16.5+/20 (March 2002) AP number: 3 551 083 9 98 Label