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Dönnhoff
Although it is the
Mosel (with the
Saar and
Ruwer) that has acquired most fame amongst
Germany's wine regions, with many a 19th Century wine list documenting the
extraordinary prices the wines commanded during their heyday, for many exponents
of German wine today it is not this region where the absolute pinnacle of Riesling
is to be found. Instead, many would look to the
Nahe, the tributary that flows
into the Rhine somewhat upstream of the latter river's union with the Mosel, at Koblenz.
Stylistically, the wines of the Nahe tend to lie somewhere between
those of the Mosel and the rest of the Rhine vineyards, which are further upstream along the Rhine,
to the east and southeast. The best are marked by an opulent, rich, spicy
character which brings Riesling lovers flocking to the region. Underneath they have a finely
delineated acidity to support this richness, although not in the same vein as that found in the
Saar
or
Ruwer, as well as a fuller structure with a greater presence in the mouth than the
filigree style that typifies the Mosel. It is this combination of
characteristics that means, for many, the wines of the Nahe are firmly in the
lead when it comes to assessing Germany's best. And leading the pack in the Nahe is Dönnhoff,
who through this exalted position is logically regarded as perhaps the greatest
winemaker in the country. Indeed, this is a title he was been awarded in the past.
The
Dönnhoff family have been making wine here since 1750, and the latest member of
the dynasty to run the estate is Helmut. Over the centuries the family
estate grew to about 12 hectares, although in recent years Helmut has
accelerated this trend so that the total area of vines now under his direction is more like
20 hectares. An inspection of his vineyard portfolio is rather like a rundown of
the top sites around his location in Oberhausen. The vineyards here include a
variety of soils, in the case of Dönnhoff his include decomposed grey slate and
volcanic rocks such as porhpyry, and are planted predominantly with Riesling which
accounts for 80% of the vines, the remainder being Burgundian varieties
including Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder. Dönnhoff's holdings include part of
the 8.5 hectare Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, a site rich in the aforementioned
slate and volcanic rock, melaphyr as well as porphyry, an igneous melange which
is perhaps responsible for some of his most exalted wines which seem to have the power
to send some writers into raptures. Perhaps equally famous is the
Oberhäuser Brücke vineyard, again dominated by grey slate;
this site is owned in its entirety by Dönnhoff, and is notable as the source of
firm, mineral, masculine wines, and of course his fabulous, cult-status
eiswein.
Although these two are perhaps the best associated with Dönnhoff, more
recent acquisitions which have seen the estate expand include some of the better
plots in nearby Norheim and Schlossböckelheim. In the former,
Dönnhoff tends vines in both the Kirschheck and Dellchen vineyards,
whereas in the latter he owns parts of the Felsenberg and
Kupfergrube sites, the latter (which was until recently a copper mine, from
where the name originates) is renowned for its complex soils and the quality of its wines.
Making full use of the vineyards under his aegis, Helmut Dönnhoff has, on the back of many years of careful vineyard management and thoughtful winemaking, firmly secured his reputation at the head of the Nahe vineyard, and I would not contest the strength of his position within all Germany. We all have personal preferences though, and I find that my palate tends to prefer the vibrant and yet more delicate wines of the Mosel. But that is not to criticise the wines of Dönnhoff, as it is a matter of style rather than quality. The wines as fashioned by Helmut are exemplary, high quality examples of the Riesling grape which typify the Nahe. He is indeed one of Germany's greatest winemakers. (15/7/02, updated 21/8/07)
Contact details:
Address: Bahnhofstrasse 11, 55585 Oberhausen
Telephone: +49 (0) 6755 263
Fax: +49 (0) 6755 1067
Dönnhoff - Tasting Notes
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Dönnhoff Riesling Qualitätswein 2007: This is an aromatic wine, with a
chalky and talcy aroma. From the outset on the palate there are some good acids,
although these fade a little through the midpalate where it is a touch fatter
and softer. It has an appealing, juicy finish though. Great length too. This has
really good style. From my
2007 Germany assessment. 15-15.5/20 (June 2008)
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2007: This has a
herby nose, with a pure, green and leafy fruit character albeit with a creamy
edge, if that is feasible. The palate makes a very good impression, pure with a
lovely weight, rich but well balanced. Bright with well defined, lifted flavours
and a fleshy substance. Moderate length. Very good indeed. From my
2007 Germany assessment. 17-17.5+/20 (June 2008)
Dönnhoff Felsentürmchen Riesling Spätlese 2007: This has gorgeous,
well-defined fruit on the nose, which is just dripping with honey and has a
delicious style. The palate is fresh and balanced, and it has a lovely substance
and purity. There are rather youthful sherbet elements to it, but there is
genuine breadth and nascent complexity here too. Excellent. From my
2007 Germany assessment. 17.5-18+/20 (June 2008)
Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2007: This has a
very minerally, pure and lifted nose, but underneath this very well defined
character there is a depth of sweet, dried, slightly candied fruits. The palate
is hugely impressive, supple and textured, building through the midpalate,
showing great depth. It carries flavours of lime and melon, and it always
displays a fresh style and deep mineral core despite the wine's rich and fleshy
substance. Put simply, this is fabulous. From my
2007 Germany assessment. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2008)
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese 2007: Another wine
displaying great purity of fruit here; if there is ever a wine that truly is
captured light in a glass, this is it. It is gentle but creamy, finely texture,
balanced, and so finely poised. Overall a divine composition that transcends
words as a description. Wonderful. From my
2007 Germany assessment. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2008)
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
2002: A green tinge here. Delicately mineral and stony,
fresh, and with some forceful lime fruit. This is similarly forceful on the
palate, which has a firm, full and ripe character. Not really racy, but it has a
full, voluptuous Nahe style. Grippy, limey, with notes of passion fruit and
kiwi, and a tingly mineral character following on nicely from the nose. Almost
savoury on the finish though. Yum. I think this will develop nicely in time. 17+/20 (August 2007)
Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöle Riesling Spätlese 1999:
A lovely, vibrant hue, firmly in the green part of the
spectrum. Lots of plump fruit on the nose, a little nuance of lychee and star
fruit, with a subtle mineral vein behind. Very fresh but fleshy and a little
creamy even, certainly coming through on the midpalate there is a note of fresh
cream swirled with green fruits. Lovely acidity giving it a clean, balanced
poise. Fairly delicious, minerally, still quite primary, with plenty of potential. 17.5+/20 (August 2007)
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
1998: A very typical colour, with a strong green tinge.
Lovely nose, rich with intense lime fruit aromas, with a floral element,
although there is some suggestion of muscle rather than pure elegance. Full bodied on
the palate, with juicy, balancing acidity. Lots of lime fruit flavour, with a creamy
twist in the finish. Very enjoyable. 17/20 (July 2002)
AP number: 7 753 01 016 99
Label
Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese
1998: A lemon-gold colour with a hint of green, and quite a few
bubbles adherent to the glass thanks to some residual carbon dioxide. The nose
carries rich, honey and oatmeal tinged aromas alongside the lime fruit. Richly
textured, with lovely weight, buoyed up by brilliant acidity, the barest tingle
from the residual gas and a fresh peach and citrus fruit flavour. Beautifully
balanced, this wine will surely go the distance. 17.5+/20 (July 2002)
AP number: 7 753 01 011 99
Label
Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöle Riesling Kabinett 1993:
A slightly paler golden wine. A definite resemblance to the first wine -
Riesling again. This is more austere though, less elegantly aromatic,
although there is plenty of fruit. The same on the palate - lots of
vibrant, fresh fruit and texture, more full and structured than the
first wine. The finish fans out like the first wine, but here offering
notes of meal and oat. From a
1993 vintage ten year on tasting. 18/20 (December 2003)
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