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Veuve Clicquot

The Clicquot Champagne house has its origins in a trading business, established in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot who dealt principally in textiles and finance, but also handled the produce of a small area of vineyards at nearby Bouzy and Ambonnay. Philippe built the business up over the next two decades, subsequently retiring and handing control to his son, François, in 1801. At that time François was already a married man, having taken the hand of Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin in 1799, and by 1800 they had a daughter, Clémentine. Death staked its claim early on this young family, however, when François died aged just 30 years, after a prolonged fever. His father by now considered himself too old to return to the vineyards, and it looked as though the family business would be sold off. Not by the reckoning of the veuve (widow) Clicquot, however, and she took control in a move unprecedented in a world where business was still the domain of men.

Thus the house took the name Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, although this is commonly shortened to Veuve Clicquot. Under the tenure of Nicole-Barbe the house went from strength to strength, thanks in part to the installation of a new chef de caves, Antoine Müller, in 1810, but in the main I think to her remarkable business acumen. Her first coup was to break the Russian market, one lost in a Europe thrown into turmoil by Napoleon and his ambitions. In the tentative peace that existed in 1811, as Napoleon's blockades fell, she despatched a large consignment, a risky venture in the prevailing political climate, but fortunately one which paid off. The wine was a success and well-received, and this firmed up the financial base from which the house operated. It was not just the marketing and distribution of Champagne that came under Nicole-Barbe's scrutiny, however, as she also saw the implementation of revolutionary new practices in the cellars. At the time the appearance of Champagne was still marred by the lees, the sediment of dead yeast cells that remained suspended in the wine following the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Nicole-Barbe and her new chef de cave conceived the system of remuage, a crucial step in the clarification of Champagne, a technique that has been universally adopted in the production of bottle-fermented sparkling wine. The system centres around wooden racks into which the bottles are placed neck first at an angle of 45 degrees. Each day the bottles are turned and tilted so that the bottle points further downwards with each day, the process gradually bringing all the sediment into the neck right behind the cork, from where it can be removed during disgorgement. With Veuve Clicquot's new technique, Champagne would no longer require decanting before serving, or being left in the glass for the sediment to settle being being approached.

In 1817 Clémentine, Nicole-Barbe's daughter, married the destitute Comte Louis de Chevigné, who seemed to set about spending the Clicquot fortune with an admirable enthusiasm. Under his influence, Nicole-Barbe purchased the Chateau de Boursault, which remains a company asset today. This state of affairs might have continued were it not for the fact that following a financial crisis in 1828 Eduoard Werlé, a wealthy employee who paid off the firm's debts, was made a partner in the business. Werlé was now in charge of the Clicquot finances, and Chevigné's pocket money was severely curtailed. This the firm continued to thrive, and Werlé assumed full control in 1841 upon Nicole-Barbe's retirement, and he ran the business up until her death in 1866, at the age of 89. Such was her presence in the region that during her lifetime she became known as La Grande Dame de la Champagne, and today she lives on in a prestige cuvée of the same name.

The Werlé family now ran Veuve Clicquot, with Eduoard's son Alfred taking over in 1884. Alfred developed the vineyards, building upon the groundwork laid by Nicole-Barbe with the acquisition of more new plots of vines, but eventually passing control to his son-in-law Comte Bertrand de Mun who was followed in turn by his son-in-law, Comte Bernard de Vogüé. In 1985 it was Alain de Vogüé who held tenure when Veuve Clicquot was subject to a reverse takeover by Joseph Henriot, head of Champagne Henriot. He acquired 11% of Veuve Clicquot stock, making him the most significant minor shareholder, and also assumed the role of chairman of the company. The action brought Veuve Clicquot under the LVMH umbrella, where it remains today, headed up by president Cécile Bonnefond, with vineyard manager Christian Renard and cellar master Jacques Péters.

Today there are 382 hectares of vineyards extolled by Clicquot, which although widely distributed are predominantly in the Grande Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs, including plots in twelve grand cru sites. This is a considerable estate, but such is the Champagne business that it provides only a quarter of Clicquot's needs, the rest being purchased from growers who are under long-term contract. Much of the fruit harvested will of course be destined for the 'Yellow Label' Brut Non-Vintage, the most recognisable wine in the portfolio with its distinctive orange label. So distinctive, in fact, that in 2000 Veuve Clicquot instructed a solicitor to act against a small although historic Tasmanian sparkling wine estate which used a similar 'mango' colour it its label design. The proprietor, Stefano Lubiana, faced with lengthy and no doubt expensive legal process, perhaps felt powerless to do anything other than comply with the whim of a Champagne house with all the financial clout of its backer, the multinational LVMH group. Such action probably reflects the importance of the non-vintage cuvée as a readily recognisable face of Veuve Clicquot, a vital component of its brand, but it is a cold-hearted observer who does not feel some sympathy for the smaller player in this David versus Goliath situation. Despite the significant role the Brut Non-Vintage which is a blend of fifty crus, one third Chardonnay and incorporates up to one third reserve wine, plays in the Clicquot portfolio it has been criticised in some quarters in recent years. This may reflect earlier release of the wine, a practice increasingly common throughout Champagne, and thus it requires a year or two bottle age following release to show its best. My most recent experiences show that the wines are better after two years in the cellar, but even with this I wonder whether they are in the same class as contemporaneous releases from other houses.

The Veuve Clicquot range also includes a Rosé Non-Vintage, based on the Yellow Label blend, with the addition of red wine (rosé should be a strong feature of the portfolio if history is anything to go by, as the house was the first to ship a rosé Champagne, as far back as 1775) and a Demi-Sec Non-Vintage, again using a similar blend to the Yellow Label also with reserve wines, typically with a dosage around 45 g/l. There are also a number of vintage cuvées, most obviously beginning with the Brut Vintage, which is about one third Chardonnay akin to the non-vintage wines, with a dosage of 9 g/l. The Vintage Rosé is made with the addition of red wine which accounts for 15% of the final blend, and which is all Pinot Noir sourced from the Bouzy vineyard. Again the dosage is around 9 g/l, a contrast to the 28 g/l which characterises the Vintage Rich. Some vintages are also held back and released late, such as the 1985 Rosé, as the Vintage Rare range. Like the entry level Brut Non-Vintage, some of these also have wavered in recent years. What brings most Champagne savants to Veuve Clicquot, however, is the prestige cuvée La Grande Dame, named for Nicole-Barbe. Inaugurated with the 1969 vintage, released in 1977 to commemorate the company's bicentenary, the fruit is sourced from eight vineyards; it is 60-65% Pinot noir from Verzenay, Verzy and Ambonnay on the Montagne de Reims and Ay in the Grande Vallée de la Marne, the balance being Chardonnay from Avize, Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger on the Côte des Blancs. There is also La Grande Dame Rosé, introduced with the 1988 vintage, made with the addition of 15% Pinot Noir from the Clos Colin in Bouzy. Any doubts about the Veuve Clicquot wines, which have come to the surface particularly when looking at the Yellow Label and even the vintage cuvées quickly dissipate on encountering La Grande Dame. Both wines are frequently fabulous, comfortably hold their own when alongside prestige cuvées from other house, and are fabulous additions - perhaps in small quantities, for they are not sold cheap - to any cellar. (1/2/07)

Contact details:
Address: 12 Rue de Temple, 51100 Reims, France
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 89 53 90
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 89 53 95
Internet: www.veuve-clicquot.com

Veuve Clicquot - Tasting Notes

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2000

Veuve Clicquot Rosé 2000: The colour is difficult to judge in the circumstances. Some attractive summer berry fruit on the nose, with burnt sugar and caramel on the side. Sweet, mallow-like notes too, a little yeasty. But not quite clean I think. This is confirmed on the palate, which is a little mean, a little dirty, with something that resemble a trace of rot. I am not impressed. 11/20 (November 2006)

1999

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1999: Unlike my last tasting note for this wine, I will make this one euphemism-free. The exact descriptors may vary, but this wine always seems to have a confected note on the nose, this time strawberry flavoured toffee. I don't like it. Slightly dirty on the palate too I think, although I confess I hadn't noted that before. Rather steely and brutal, one-dimensional. Overall, disappointing, and I rate this bottle closer to the one I tasted in March 2006 than the more recent one. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 13.5/20 (March 2007)

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1999: Very yeasty nose, an unresolved sweet, marshmallow character, creamy toffee and butterscotch too. It's rather effusive and overly welcoming but this is perhaps an awkward youth. More reassuringly it seems to have an attractive, slightly nervous poise which is an improvement on its showing in March earlier in the year. Creamy, a little confected, with a decent mousse and a bitter-crisp finish. Some positive development here, but still (shall we say) a rather distinctive style of wine. 15+/20 (November 2006)

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1999: A soft marzipan nose here, richly perfumed, obviously a young, perhaps recently disgorged wine. Rather straightforward in style on the palate, a touch sherbetty too. It shows some unintegrated, rather fierce alcohol, which is very disconcerting, and some very unusual characteristics. Very awkward. I'm not sure if this will ever come good. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 13/20 (March 2006)

Veuve Clicquot Rich 1999: A creamy nose, again with youthful confected, marshmallow, burnt sugar aromas. A toasty, caramelised streak. For the richness suggested by the nose, the palate falls a little short. Although somewhat lean it does round out quite nicely through the middle, and there is a little more finesse than the nose suggested too. Green, nettly, nicely composed, this is the most palatable of the three wines here, although it certainly needs cellar time. 16+/20 (November 2006)

1995

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1995: A very pale, fine lemon-gold hue dotted with a very sparse but moderate sized bead. There is certainly some complexity and apparent maturity on the nose, nutty and a little mushroomy, although with a little confected, boiled sweet character in the background but it is a very minor component. The palate, however, is quite fine, with a vibrantly crisp mousse carrying along a lot of full, creamily mature autolytic flavours. There is a lot of rich, leesy character to it, quite a forceful flavour in fact, with a sappy, lingering acidity. Quite firm despite the maturing character and it would continue to do well in the cellar. Veuve Clicquot were certainly making some lovely wines back in the 1990s, so it is sad that recent efforts are not so admirable. From a 1995 Champagne tasting. 17+/20 (August 2007)

1993

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1993: From a magnum which, believe it or not, I won in a WSET competition a few years ago, and it has been resting in the cellar ever since, waiting for a suitable occasion. A plentiful bead, and a good colour, rich but not deep or aged. Notes of toffee, cream or caramel on the nose, seemingly rather elegant in style, with a little note of brûlée and even marshmallow which isn't so prominent as to be disruptive. Full, flavoursome, broad and outgoing, a midpalate packed with impact and flavour, a gentle but fresh and crisp mousse, rather mallowy and creamy, but nevertheless it certainly has style and is backed up by defining acidity. This magnum has done rather well. A 2007 Christmas wine. 17.5+/20 (December 2007)

1990

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1990: A full, powerful, nutty nose. Lovely palate, nuts and cream with an orange peel edge. Very firm, tight palate with a still powerful mousse. Vibrant acidity. Incredible length - it goes on and on. Wonderful potential here - this needs another five to ten years of bottle age at last. From a Prestige Cuvée tasting. 18.5+/20 (September 2004)

1989

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1989: A fresh, yeasty nose - very good. The palate has too much sharp lemony acidity, with biscuity notes. Nevertheless, a creamy finish. Would be better with food. This is one of several brief notes from a 1989 Champagne tasting. 14/20 (June 2000)

Non-Vintage

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Current release. Sulphur on the nose here, which has a rather hard character. It has an attractive style on the palate, despite all the criticism that VC has come in for recently there are clearly some good points here. Nevertheless through the midpalate it is softer, plump even, with a touch of toffee. Rather creamy, rather feminine, if anything rather unfocussed and a little too perfumed. There are better Champagnes on the market I feel. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 14/20 (March 2008)

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Current release. Lime leaves on the nose, oranges, smoky, and some sulphur. Soft, unfocussed, creamy foamy style, peppery and sherbetty. Slightly bitter character too. Lacks precision and presence, fading away to almost nothing on the endpalate. Disappointing. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14/20 (March 2007)

Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec NV: A light, rather floral presence on the nose, with some crystalline flower petals leading the way. Quite precise, which makes a welcome change, with good acidity, minerally quality, but just a little hint of sulphur in the background. Smoky, textured. This is decent enough, and is certainly better than many of the other high dosage wines here. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15/20 (March 2006)

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Purchased in Spring 2001. This bottle has spent three years in the cellar - another example of ageing NV Champagne. It has a pale lemon-yellow hue with a very fine bead. Showing some maturity, with coffee notes, although also a background note of appley madeirisation betraying some early oxidation. Full, creamy, gently foaming on the palate. It still has some firm acidity, but also some nice coffee-toffee maturity - and that touch of madeirisation coming through from the back, but at this very low level I feel this adds complexity. Wouldn't appeal to all though. 15.5/20 (June 2004)

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Purchased in early 2001. A couple of years ago it seemed that the quality of the Veuve Clicquot non-vintage Champagne seemed to have stumbled somewhat - the wines were overly acidic, foamy and disjointed. The house seems to have picked it's feet up, however, with this wine. It has a pale elegant colour. Still very primary on the nose, with aromas of ripe white fruits. The palate is a solid combination of firm acidity, toasty, white fruit and a creamy mousse. Some notes of maturity, coffee and nuts, and a good creamy mouthfeel. This wine is holding up tremendously well. With such firm acidity and emerging complexity this wine clearly needs more time in the cellar. From a tasting of aged non vintage Champagne. 16+/20 (May 2003)

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: The cuvée on the market at the time of tasting. A nose of white fruit, with some mineral and smoke elements. Good acidity combined with a fresh, sharp mousse on the palate. Fresh fruit flavours. A hint of creaminess to the texture, and just beginning to display some toastiness on the finish. From an Oddbins tasting. 15/20 (November 2001)

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Purchased Summer 2000. A pale golden colour, with only a few streams of tiny bubbles. Rich aromas of almonds and marzipan, yeasty dough and biscuits fill the air. On the palate, a moderately rich, creamy texture is balanced out by soft acidity. The mousse is gentle at first, and rapidly fades until its presence is barely noticeable, while the flavour profile builds into a yeasty finale. A lovely example of NV Champagne. 16/20 (October 2000)